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YOUR RESEARCHURO aluminum AOS heater hose connector
Leading reported evidence
Disconnect coolant hose
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Also, OP, I once disconnected the coolant hose to replace my alternator and a small amount of coolant leaked out.
Leading evidence: 'Disconnect coolant hose' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect coolant hose' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
It broke as I tightened the bolt that holds it in place.
Replace alternator and a small amount of coolant leaked out
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Suggestion
Also, OP, I once disconnected the coolant hose to replace my alternator and a small amount of coolant leaked out.
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Suggestion
It is cast aluminum and if the bracket doesn't fit properly, as you tighten the bolt it will break the part.
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Suggestion · Original poster
To be clear did it break during installation or while in use afterwards because now I'm scaed of a very old plastic part and a new aluminum one
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Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T155324Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
My 2001 911 Pariah 2 (cab with a tip) still has the original plastic AOS heater hose connector and I would like to replace it with the aluminum URO part, Question canI just disconnect the hoses and install the new piece, I'm worried about coolent going everywhere and introducing air into the system
Two things. Be careful with this part. It is cast aluminum and if the bracket doesn't fit properly, as you tighten the bolt it will break the part. The better part is the Rauch and Spiegel. It costs a lot more, but it will not break because it is braced i a different way. Second, you can buy hose clamp pliers at any auto parts store. The URO part broke on me.
Also, if you get the UAOS, you don't have to worry about this part ever again. Of course that option is way more expensive.
Wow I didn�t know the URO version could break�.
I also bought a Rauch & Spiegel version, and it�s working very well. Admittedly, I haven�t touched it since installation, but its heft has my faith in its longevity. Rauch & Spiegel makes great products - I also bought their spark plug tubes and the associated removal tool and was very pleased with their craftsmanship.
Edit:
Also, OP, I once disconnected the coolant hose to replace my alternator and a small amount of coolant leaked out. I reconnected it and drove the car like normal, and I added a little bit of coolant the next day. I don�t think you�ll need to perform a special bleeding service - driving around to get the car up to temperature was good enough for me.
You can so long as you use hose clamps or similar on the upper hose, though you�ll still lose a tiny bit of coolant.
Let me know if you want the URO piece. I bought one and never opened it due to subsequently installing the UAOS, which deletes that coolant line.
Not looking for any money (assuming you�re located in the US).
Thanks, looks like I'll have to think on this a minute after the advice here, don't know if I should even fiddle with it now although the part is as old as the car, it's just that a friend suggested I might want to replace it
Your friend is right about replacing it. Don�t even think about touching it unless you have a replacement part in your hand. It really is quite fragile when it�s old.
As said part does fit but u have to becareful that its in the correct position when u tighten it. I have used this part and its fine but the lip machined into the part can get caught on the block if twisted. U can vice grip the hoses shut when u install to minimize fluid loose but its not nesseccary as it wont be a lot.
It broke as I tightened the bolt that holds it in place. I immediately ordered the R&S version with overnight delivery. It's an interesting part and I can see why Porsche had to make this part to splice together two hoses. The reason is that the hose is millimeters from the serpentine belt. It has to hold the hose away from the belt. It serves no other purpose and is probably why they made it in plastic in the first place. Also, the plastic one I removed seemed fine, but I guess I'd rather replace parts that haven't yet broke.
^ Exactly right, De Jeeper. When installing
Cooling Hose Connector
996 106 226 52-PRM
, please ensure that the small hook on the fitting is positioned beneath the casting web before tightening the bolt. The hook (which R&S omitted) is there to help ensure the hose connector is supported in both directions. If the hook is accidentally positioned on top of the web when the bolt is torqued, the clamping force will break the bracket. This would also happen with the plastic Porsche OEM fitting. Hope that helps!
I know I'm in the minority but I don't understand what's wrong with the $6 part that's been on the car and working perfectly for 20 something years. Yes they break if you are removing the alternator and you aren't careful.
After 20+ years, they break if you look at them the wrong way. It's a plastic connector. After mine broke 3 times, got the R&S and moved on. There are lots of maintenance jobs (starter replacement, oil filler tube, Y cable replacement, alternator replacement, and so on) that require working around that plastic connector. Why not take a known point of failure and fix it forever? And, it can strand you at the worst possible time. No getting around that.
Other then the recommendation I got to replace this old plastic part I am planning to replace the serpentine belt and thought this would be one of those while your in there jobs
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