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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHUnknown Switchable Exhaust - Help ID'ing
Leading reported evidence
Check their work
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
Sometimes those bolts are barely torqued from the factory, so it�s best to double-check their work before you�re no longer able to remove it.
Leading evidence: 'Check their work' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check their work' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
So my solution is to completely cut out the old valve, and replace / weld in a new valve and canister.
Replace coolant flush, random coolant hose replacements, etc
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
But the grass is always greener and now I find myself wanting that noise back...I was thinking just replace the vac cans, but even if I did, the valves themself are so worn that they leak on the shaft and they rattle really bad (I had to use 2x heavy exhaust springs to stop the rattle).
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
I like your idea of replacing the valve, and also upgrading to a wider diameter bypass pipe.
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Suggestion · Original poster
But the grass is always greener and now I find myself wanting that noise back...I was thinking just replace the vac cans, but even if I did, the valves themself are so worn that they leak on the shaft and they rattle really bad (I had to use 2x heavy exhaust springs to stop the rattle).
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
But the grass is always greener and now I find myself wanting that noise back...I was thinking just replace the vac cans, but even if I did, the valves themself are so worn that they leak on the shaft and they rattle really bad (I had to use 2x heavy exhaust springs to stop the rattle).
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
I had to use some strange arrangement of springs to hold the valve open and also hold it hard enough closed that the rattling shaft of the butterfly valve is no longer rattling.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
8 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T171335Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hello all, title says it all. I took off my bumper cover today to work on putting my car back to quiet mode. I was surprised as at first it looked like a stock, quiet exhaust but it has the vacuum canister for controlling the butterfly valve that allows the exhaust bypass.
It is different from all the PSE (porsche switchable exhaust) I see on the internet as the top pipe is normally the "bypass" that is controlled by the vac canister. This particular model goes from the cat straight to the tip, not thru the top of the muffler like ALL I have seen online... Any idea?
The car was not optioned with PSE according to the sticker. It is a 2001 c2 manual. The ehxuast has a 996 xxx ... xxx part number on it and it also has the brand of "eisenman" written on it. Its a strange duck. I enjoy the way it sounds too. The canister rusted off.
P.S. - where the little canister's push rod connects to valve's lever, there is a ball and socket the size of a pinky finger nail. I took out the lock c clip thing, but the rod is basically welded to the valve's level... AKA the ball is rust-welded in the socket. I tried for 5 hrs to bust it free... no dice. I will have to improvise. Any suggestions? I tired to get a pic but its just soo poorly angled... Also, the exhaust sounds rly good. I was surprised to see a 1" diameter pipe as the bypass. Makes sense it only gets loud under load tho (valves fail open)
Thanks for any help or info you all have, in advance
Pic from online to show the mechanism. This is PSE standard sport exhaust. This bracket is at a well thought out angle vs whatever the heck is on my car
Thank you! I just finally finished ID'ing it along with closing the flaps and also stopping a bad rattle I thought was the baffle in the muffler. Win win situation!
Car's exhausts has way more fineness now and I am loving it, same sound, 10db quieter.
I had to use some strange arrangement of springs to hold the valve open and also hold it hard enough closed that the rattling shaft of the butterfly valve is no longer rattling. The rattle appears to be caused by some play in the butterfly valve shaft. I am considering tack welding the valve closed... It sounds damn good how it is now, not even that quiet, but def more quiet.
If I can find a way to fix the rattling valve, I plan on buying vacuum canisters and putting them back on. If there is a fix, I will try it
Well, I really really like the stock exhaust sound! Very nice, when you want it. But the grass is always greener and now I find myself wanting that noise back...I was thinking just replace the vac cans, but even if I did, the valves themself are so worn that they leak on the shaft and they rattle really bad (I had to use 2x heavy exhaust springs to stop the rattle).
So my solution is to completely cut out the old valve, and replace / weld in a new valve and canister. This way the rattle and leak is gone. While I am in there, I am thinking I will upgrade the J pipe diameter as she was maybe as loud as a air cooled vw bug or porsche with stock-ish exhaust. On a 1 to 10 scale of exhaust loudness: If straight pipes are a 10, and stock is a 1, then my PSE all the way open is a 3 at most and a 1.25 at idle. I would like to bring that up to a 4 or 5 and a 2 out of 10 at idle! I think doubling the J pipe diameter will do it! I'm excited to do this!
Looking online, I can not find much and was wondering what you all might suggest? Online, most 55mm / 2.25" exhaust valves are some amazon or Ali express crap. I would like something of quality, but I am struggling to find it. These guys (link) seem promising, but I would like to hear what you all have to say. I would love to find a post where someone did this to their 996 (or 997?) but to a stock exhaust -
https://proflowexhaust.com/products/...t-cutout-valve
Peace!
I like your idea of replacing the valve, and also upgrading to a wider diameter bypass pipe.
I do question the durability of these valves. I would recommend you add some Loctite to the bolts to secure the flaps. Sometimes those bolts are barely torqued from the factory, so it�s best to double-check their work before you�re no longer able to remove it.
Youre asking the right questions about what fitting can provide the right amount of vacuum....
I am going to put this on my huge list of things to research and to buy! Once I figure this out, I will be sure to update this forum.
Come winter, I am doing this rebuild, but for now, I am just doing some quality of life stuff... Stuff like: oil change, coolant flush, random coolant hose replacements, etc...
THEN I will do the full rebuild (exhaust welding, new flywheel, timing chain replacements, RnP gear on diff replacement, potential transmission rebuild, etc)
Thanks all. I am looking forward to bringing a step by step solution to future generations of 996 lovers
I think cutting and welding this is the way to go, also upgrading the diameter as I love the dansk super sport exhaust sound, but the silence of the engine is just as coveted... Nothing quite like a silent 911. But also there is nothing quite like a LOUD 911. With this, I will get the best of both world. Really, If I could weld, I'd be doing that next weekend
Peace for now
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