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YOUR RESEARCHInstalled FVD Brombacher deep sump baffled oil pan, oil pressure fluctuating now
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Install pan, i got it
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
When I installed the pan, I got it to seat with nothing more than some tapping / banging with my open palm.
Installed FVD Brombacher deep sump baffled oil pan, oil pressure fluctuating now
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Leading evidence: 'Install pan, i got it' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'dozen times' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Install pan, i got it' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Only the tiniest amount of Hondabond came past the pan / block when I tightened the bolts, so I think I used an appropriate amount.
Installed FVD Brombacher deep sump baffled oil pan, oil pressure fluctuating now
Tighten screws
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I tugged on the oil pan with my fingers, towards the rear of the car, which was enough to get the holes lined up, and I finger-tightened the screws.
Installed FVD Brombacher deep sump baffled oil pan, oil pressure fluctuating now
Use appropriate amount
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Only the tiniest amount of Hondabond came past the pan / block when I tightened the bolts, so I think I used an appropriate amount.
Installed FVD Brombacher deep sump baffled oil pan, oil pressure fluctuating now
Use blue loctite
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Installed FVD Brombacher deep sump baffled oil pan, oil pressure fluctuating now
Test seated it probably a dozen times
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Suggestion · Original poster
(I test-seated it probably a dozen times before lubing it up.) I got it fully seated, but the screw holes on the right front of the oil pan were just the slightest bit off, with that corner of the pan being a bit closer to the front of the car.
Installed FVD Brombacher deep sump baffled oil pan, oil pressure fluctuating now
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dozen times
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Suspected cause · Original poster
(I test-seated it probably a dozen times before lubing it up.) I got it fully seated, but the screw holes on the right front of the oil pan were just the slightest bit off, with that corner of the pan being a bit closer to the front of the car.
Installed FVD Brombacher deep sump baffled oil pan, oil pressure fluctuating now
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20 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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I did two track days (about 110 minutes of track time) in August and September in my '02 Cabrio with low-40K miles on it. I read about the potential oil starvation issues, after the second track day. I figured my 911 was as likely as any to have starvation issues (I didn't know before the two track days so I never eyeballed the oil pressure gauge to see if it was a real issue) so I bought the FVD Brombacher deep sump X51 baffled oil pan.
https://www.fvd.net/us-en/FVD2079880...le-baffle.html
I installed it last week and did a track day today at World Wide Technology Raceway (formerly Gateway, near St. Louis).
https://www.racingcircuits.info/nort...l#.X4Z6qNBKiJM
(Road course #1.) There is one decreasing radius 180 degree right-hand corner, turn 6 and 7. I'd brake into 6, then coast to scrub off speed, and brake a bit while approaching the turn-in for 7. Sure enough, while decelerating and dialing in more steering, the oil pressure gauge would fluctuate, sometimes as low as 2.5. Looking through my videos, I think the oil pressure gauge either didn't fluctuate as much, or not at all, during the left-hand corners. (I had the camera mounted on the left front of my helmet, so the oil pressure gauge was sometimes obscured while turning left.)
I used the spacer that lowers the pickup about 1/3 - 1/2 inch. I made sure that the rubber o-ring on the spacer was facing up. I used blue loctite on the bolts. I didn't use a torque wrench (bad ME), but I made it "snug enough", or so I thought. I used Hondabond gasket maker. I used my finger to get it down to a thin coating. When I installed the pan, I got it to seat with nothing more than some tapping / banging with my open palm. (I test-seated it probably a dozen times before lubing it up.) I got it fully seated, but the screw holes on the right front of the oil pan were just the slightest bit off, with that corner of the pan being a bit closer to the front of the car. I tugged on the oil pan with my fingers, towards the rear of the car, which was enough to get the holes lined up, and I finger-tightened the screws. Only the tiniest amount of Hondabond came past the pan / block when I tightened the bolts, so I think I used an appropriate amount. I let it cure for three days, and there are no leaks. The engine took about 10 quarts for the gauge on the dash to indicate that the oil level was totally full.
Oil pressure under "normal" brisk driving appears normal--no fluctuations.
Could I have screwed something up on installation? What should I do next to troubleshoot?
It doesn't sound like you screwed anything up according to your description. Right handers are the ones that cause low oil pressure - you can even see it on off ramps if you push the car a little. I always drop a gear to keep the rev's/pressure up...
Yeah, I'm pretty confident I didn't screw anything up, but I feel like the oil pressure issues I'm experiencing are exactly what the FVD Brombacher oil pan is supposed to prevent. I can't imagine that the engine was seeing more fluctuation than this with the stock oil pan. Something has to be wrong.
If there is a point of comparison to be made here, we don't recommend our 1/2 quart deep sump, even with the X51 baffle, for the track. The 2 quart deep sump is the only one that has been proven to prevent the oil pressure losses on track.
Weeellll sheeeiiit.
I assume this is the one you're referring to:
https://lnengineering.com/products/s...51-baffle.html
Are there any caveats with it? I seem to recall people mentioning clearance issues with some deep pans.
Definitely get the skid pan with the two quart sump. It ain't cheap, for what it is, but it's worth it. I scraped the skid pan the first day I drove it after 2qt sump and skid pan installation. The sump is the lowest part on the car. Note that some people have had noise feedback issues with the skid plate. I haven't. There are threads on it.
Yes, that's the one. You just have to be cautious. I ran one on my Boxster for years with no issues on the street before putting on a skid pan, only after hitting a frost heave in Canada and cracking the sump plate. That's one of the reasons I ended up making the sump guard.
Like another poster mentioned, some have had issues with NVH, but some have not. We have fit them on cars at our shop and had no noise, my Boxster included. If you search for the thread, what they ended up using was this Noico product applied to the side of the sump guard facing the engine to eliminate the NVH.Noico 80 mil 10 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening
Learn more:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01KZ5X7..._7X2HFb8VA0AQ0
Is the Bilt pan the same as the LN Engineering-branded pan I've seen elsewhere?
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/137441...hoC6GAQAvD_BwE
The pics look the same, but the only one I can find on the LN site is the Bilt-branded pan, not the LN-branded pan, which seems odd.
Does the Bilt (and LN?) deep sump kit reuse the existing pan? It kind of looks like must, given the openings in what looks like the bottom of it.
(Link to sump guard--posting here for future reference so I can find it easily.
https://lnengineering.com/bilt-racin...ard-plate.html
)
^^^ Take a look at Charles' signature... LN Engineering and Bilt Racing Service (BRS) are both his companies. Armed with this information, it's not a big leap to say that the 2qt deep sump from LNE is the same as the one from BRS
I hit my plate when I spun and backed over curbing, but that is why it is there. The pan was fine.
To the OP, the 2 Qt sump will help, but nothing really eliminates it. Although I did notice in your videos, where your pressure was dropping, you were not under full throttle (at least for the couple minutes I watched). The pressure will drop when not under full throttle.
And oil does matter. If on the track, use Driven XP9. Stupidly expensive, but everything in this hobby is.
An update on this issue. FVD refused to take any ownership of the issue, and refused to accept a return of the oil pan despite it clearly not working as claimed. Fortunately, Flat 6 Motorsports was willing to take back the oil pan, so I removed it, cleaned it up, and shipped it back late last week. A big thanks to Jon at Flat 6 Motorsports for being a stand-up guy when FVD wouldn't.
I'm in the midst of a 2+ year divorce, and my recently-acquired 996 Cabrio was cheap enough that I could easily afford it while going through with the divorce (and it's not in my name, so it's not a marital asset). I was originally thinking about getting a Mustang GT350 (but prices on these are now on the rise since Ford killed it, and since the GT500s are automatic only so there's no row-your-own top-dog Mustang) or a Camaro ZL1 (probably a great car to drive, but I am having a hard time reconciling myself with the WW2 German machine gun bunker visibility), but maybe I should look at a Turbo as a track car. Perhaps a coupe (997, if I can swing it) Turbo for the track and keep the Carrera Cabrio, or maybe get a (997?) Turbo Cabrio and sell the Carrera Cabrio. Once I'm done with this damn divorce, that is.
