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YOUR RESEARCHOil analysis report advice
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whole reason
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Reported cause · Original poster
Running it like I mean it was the whole reason for getting this car.
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Suggestion
The data from that less mingled oil fill will tell you better wear info.
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Suggestion
GFern - Since previous oil type and viscosity is unknown prior to your fill with DT40, sideline this report.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I haven't had a chance to pull the oil pan and inspect the bottom of the bores yet.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I bought this 03 C2 over the summer with just over 58K miles and this is the first oil change which based on service records was about 2200 miles and 18 months old.
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Sorry for yet another one. Hoping you guys can compare with what you are seeing from yours long term. I bought this 03 C2 over the summer with just over 58K miles and this is the first oil change which based on service records was about 2200 miles and 18 months old. IMS and clutch were done a few hundred miles before I bought it at the same time as last oil change. PPI pictures of bores looked fine (from the spark plugs). Before doing this oil change I replaced plugs, coils air filter and AOS (which was failed) and scoped the bores through the plugs again. I haven't had a chance to pull the oil pan and inspect the bottom of the bores yet. The car had significant oil in the intake and carbon deposits on the cylinders due to the AOS. It was full to the top from the last oil change and in the 2000 miles it burned off 2 bars from the level but no visible soot on the tailpipes, although it did smoke a bit on start-up and while beating on it. Oil that came out had no visible shiny bits or ferrous material and looked reasonably clean. Cut the oil filter which also looked clean. After the AOS replacement, it stopped smoking under hard driving and start-up. If I drive it hard and park it soon after, I occasionally get a quick puff of smoke on the next start-up which dissipates in seconds. Also if I start it cold and move it out of the garage and turn it off (like to wash it) occasionally I get a puff of smoke on start-up as well. It also doesn't seem to like being parked downhill on my sloped driveway when hot...it will give me a little puff too. Since this oil sample I've put 500 miles on it and no signs of burning oil, level drop or soot on the tail pipes. Car runs smooth and quiet. The elevated Aluminum, Silicon Iron and Boron have my attention but not sure if anything to really worry about yet? Car now has DT40 oil filled to the middle of the level range and regularly running fuel system cleaner with high quality gas to try to clear out those carbon deposits on the pistons. Blackstone's note connecting it to possible hard use is justified in my case. It's a weekend toy car and it sees significant hard use...I only drive it when I'm intentionally taking it out to play. Thoughts?
@GFern
, you now have a starting baseline. You mentioned DT40 is what you put in. Any idea what oil was being used before the oil change? I wouldn't jump to any conclusions since it was your first test. Nor would I loose any sleep.
Sounds like you are a DIY guy. If it was my car, I would drive it like you mean it and run another test after 1500 miles to see what you have. I would also drop the sump to see what's in there as well as scope the bores thru the sump. Might as well know what you have or don't have.
I know you already put on a new AOS, but when you get sick and tired of the smoking, consider putting in the UAOS track version, even if you arent going to track the car. The reason is it can not only handle 1qt of oil over full, but it will eliminate the smoking issues with parking on an incline as well as you wont have to worry about accidentally overfilling the oil because it can handle an extra quart. Lastly, the track version eliminates the flow of coolant thru the UAOS system, so you mitigate the risk of intermix.
Congrats on the new car. You will have a blast. Enjoy one of the best handling 911s.
@GC996
Great advice, thanks. Yes I am a capable DIY guy, but no experience with these cars. Running it like I mean it was the whole reason for getting this car. I made peace with the fact that it may need an expensive rebuild at some point, but was hoping not anytime soon lol. Looking back, I should have just done the UAOS but assumed the stock unit held out 20 years, and would be sufficient for backroad bombing. I was thinking like my previous experience with BMW's that the AOS fails often, but when its working, it works. Guess not the case for these. I also had a long list of other preventative and worn items like powertrain bushings, tires, coolant system and other original items that I just wanted to go through and sort out before I assessed whether this is a car I planned to keep long enough to bother modifying and upgrading. Next oil change will be pulling the pan and snooping around. If the AOS continues to bug me I'll just suck it up and go back in there. Great little car though. Only concerned about health of engine because I already decided that it's a keeper for better or worse.
They are pretty durable engines if you keep them lubricated with fresh high quality oil. The weak links are the IMSB, AOS and water pump. The water pump should be replaced with an oem water pump if it wasn't recently replaced. You don't want a plastic fan blade to break off and lodge itself creating heat and cracking.
Easy to mitigate the risks with a better designed aftermarket IMSB, AOS and oem water pump.
Bore scoring mitigation is all about running good oil like DT40, changing it at least 2x a year, running good fuel, keeping your fuel injectors fresh, and good start up procedures. No rocket science here.
But yeah, to your point, every engine known to man will eventually need a rebuild. Just physics.
GFern - Since previous oil type and viscosity is unknown prior to your fill with DT40, sideline this report. Get 3,000 miles on this new fill and get another UOA from same lab. The data from that less mingled oil fill will tell you better wear info. Nothing from your UOA jumps out, except the shear.
thanks for all the great info. Last oil says �Mobil Syn 0-40� on the invoice in the documentation. But I agree that a lot has been messed with which could influence the sample. RMS and IMS were changed at that time. I also did the oil separator before changing the oil and the engine bay was pretty dusty. All of those things could have introduced some contaminants. Part of the reason I didn�t drop the pan. I wanted to get a few oil changes to assess normal silicon levels before I introduce additional sealant as a possible contaminant to the oil pan. I�ll just keep enjoying it and sorting all the little things still on the list.
Take a look at the DI40/DT40 thread. There are a bunch of virgin oil tests for the DI40, DT40 and a few others. Virgin Mobil1 tests are also floating around.
I'd second this recommendation. I would go further and say you should also test the subsequent oil change as well. Wear levels should trend down in each subsequent test.
All great recommendations.
I've compiled everything on one page with all our directives as well for those who are interested:
https://lnengineering.com/products/w...e-scoring.html
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
