won't start

So I'm in the middle of an interior swap on my 1999 996.1 (manual), haven't tacked the dash yet and the interior is partially reassembled. While I'm waiting on some parts I decided, for some reason, to make sure it still works, but I've discovered that it won't crank. During the course of the swap, the new (this fall) battery discharged to zero but I've trickle charged it back up to full and even attempted to start with the aid of an external battery jumper. All the lights illuminate on the dash but the engine won't crank. Nothing. The tach doesn't jump when the key is turned. The car is still partially disassembled (center console still out) and door cards not fully wired. The (aftermarket) seats are not in the car. I'd completely removed everything but the dash and headliner, installed soundproofing and reinstalled newer carpeting. Here is what is going for me: Fuses B 8; C 1,2,4 are intact as are any other fuse I check from the panel in the driver's side footwell Fuse on immobilzer (beneath driver seat) is intact Battery is fully charged (disconnected and reconnected already) Keys: Tried with both keys (one key brand new this summer (professionally mated to the car and has been used successfully for months), both fob batteries new this summer) Read online that sometimes after a discharge the computer needs to reassociate with the keys by inserting into door cylinders, which was done a few times Ignition cylinder turns freely as normal---dash lights illuminate as normal start -engine does not attempt to crank, tach does not jump, Wiggling and jiggiling with either key makes no difference lights, radio, HVAC all seem to work, can hear fuel pump when ignition turned central locks work via button on dash driver window, left about 90% down for project work, drops 1/4" when door opened (likely calibration error due to battery disconnection) Aftermarket head unit partially removed (to R&R forward center console) and replaced. Replaced (same one) and works per normal What is currently undone: Door cards: courtesy lights work but upper electrical connection is not connected (door cards from a 996.2, need to modify connection). Not really sure what that upper connection does though. Center console is out (window switches, ash tray light, light in armrest storage not connected) Seats are out (seats that came with car were aftermarket racing seats, so no electrical connection there) I don't think that any of those connections have anything to do with the ignition not firing. My fear is that I've destroyed some brittle old wire when moving carpet around, particularly around the e-brake the carpet there was difficult there and I may have stretched some wires. As it's a manual, I don't believe any of those wires, if destroyed, would impact the ignition. During part of the install, I may have sat on the immobilzer unit on the driver's side floor before I realized that wasn't a good idea. It seems small and rigid but possible internal board fracture from the pressure? Have not tried to bypass the clutch safety switch or the relay behind the rear seats (need to pick up a couple of spade connections). The plunger on the clutch safety switch, when relaxed is up against the clutch pedal arm but does not follow the arm, not even a little bit, when the clutch is pressed. I can press the clutch pedal arm down a bit and press in the switch plunger about 5-6mm. If I take the pressure off of the plunger, I can force the plunger out another 8-10 mm so I think that the switch needs to be replaced. Holding the clutch pedal down and manually extending the plunger does not allow the engine to crank so I'll still try the bypass when I get some connectors. There is a relay (Relay Support 2) behind the rear seat under the carpeting that I've not yet tried. The car is a 1999 996.1 with a LS3. Probably should have started with that. It has a LS3 crate engine installed about 14k ago (RH kit) and I'd had it professionally tuned this fall, about 1000 miles before taking it off the road for the winter. It has the Porsche BCU (body control unit) and Porsche immobilizer and a GM ECU. The GM ECU has an OBD II port that has a Bluetooth device connect that reports GM ECU readings to the Android radio head unit. That's getting power and it's reporting properly (intake, oil and coolant temps as ambient) RPM as zero and oil pressure slightly above atmospheric. I don't think the problem has anything to do with the LS3 engine or GM ECU unless it's a wire I screwed up when doing the carpeting and soundproofing. There was another RennList thread I'd found where the OP had a similar problem ( https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l-problem.html ). SPOILER ALERT: it was traced back to a blown 80 amp (80 amps!!) fuse in the power distribution box. The OP apparently had a short from where he installed the new ignition cylinder. I haven't messed with the ignition or anything in the dash yet other than the head unit but I suppose that's on my list of things to check. Am I correct that the center console and door card status shouldn't make a difference? That destroying any wiring around the eBrake won't make a difference with the ignition not cranking? Thanks in advance!

The 80A fuse powers everything on the ignition switch. You said that things work with the ignition switched on so that 80A fuse should be OK. I don't think that any wires in the center console area are important to the engine function. The main wiring to the back is run along the door sills. Did you hook up the RFID antenna and control box that is surrounding the ignition switch? That's how the immo reads the RFID pill in the key. I think you need to jump the start lock relay on the rear relay panel and see if it cranks. If it does then the ignition switch & associated wiring is OK and the immobilizer is preventing the starter from working.

Quotes source post: 17893891

Rough week at work, thanks for the suggestions. Along which door sill? Passenger? I hadn�t (intentionally) disconnected the RFID antenna but that seems easy to check (aftermarket seat still out). there is a video on the Boxster forums on how to jump that relay. Those relays, I imagine, are off-the-shelf relays, easily found at local general auto stores?

The harness runs down both door sills. Then wraps around in front of the back seats, joins up, and runs down the middle of the back seats. The relay will have a number printed on it. You can get them at VW dealers, not sure about auto parts stores though. You can also swap relays with the same number to test. I don't know what number the start lock relay is. But I am sure the relay is fine and something else is causing the no crank situation.

It confuses me why anyone doing this swap would leave the imobilizer intact. Unfortunately since the dme is not there i doubt u can read the obd talemetry from the body harness. U r gonna have to check continuety though couple sensors that lock out the stsrt relay. Chances r its something unpluged.

There are 4 switches on the pedals #16, #17 (2) and #18,,,,,The clutch interlock switch is #16, I think you are incorrectly fiddling with #17....Try fiddling with #16 in the diagram below.. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=702-00