To drop or not to drop. That is the question. (Engine)

Ahoy! Car has 113k miles and I've just bought the following parts -IMS retrofit -RMS -UAOS -Injectors -Clutch & Flywheel The question is, should I pull the engine for all this work? I should I just pull the transmission? Obviously pulling the trans is quicker but... Is there a break even point where having the engine out is actually easier? How much of a PITA is engine R&R? I've pulled many engines on small cars and American cars but nothing like this vehicle. Lastly, if I do pull the engine out, what else do I need to put on my to do list? Plugs, coils and WP are new already. Camshaft deviations are good. Thank you all! 😘

IMHO, if you have the time, space and means to pull an engine I would do that. It will just give you all the room you could want or need to replace everything. Yes, it will be more work but probably easier in the end. Given the age and mileage on the car it will also give you a nice clean view of everything else. I would take a close look at the coolant expansion tank while in there and replace all vacuum lines that run on top the engine. This will eliminate any potential vacuum leaks that can cause other issues. I'd also take a close look at the heat exchanger and maybe even replace the seals. My OCD would also have me cleaning up any dirt and grime from the engine and engine compartment.

With that much work, just pull the engine.

OP - A couple of ‘if’ caveats. What you don’t mention is ‘if’ you have a lift or scissors or plain stands and an extra set of hands. The capability to remove engine and trans as one unit probably a plus. If you can drop the engine low enough you can get to the IMS sitting on your butt you should be ok. Lift available? No question drop the motor. Following Dempsey’s guide, with your prior experience…down in 4 hours, up in 4 hours ready to turn the key is my guesstimate. Having done just injectors from the top…4 hours for me. AOS with engine dropped a couple inches…no thanks! While the engine’s dropped you can check torque on chain tensioners, general condition of all the hoses and vacuum lines on top, all the water hoses, oil cooler o rings, plugs if condition warrants. For the final step of the UAOS install, you may want to wait to connect, basically, the whole front half of the system until the engine is back up to prevent clearance issues with the body while your fiddling with final position. Skip and the others may chime in with a recommendation on that from their lessons learned. My 2 bits.

Thanks guys. I guess that's what I was afraid of 😂 My main issue I guess is that I've never pulled an engine out the bottom of a car before. I have quickjack and a second pair of hands, a crane and an engine stand that used to hold a SBC. ​​​​​​ Does the quickjack 5k get high enough? Are we just using a trans jack to lower the motor down? Once it's out, can I hang it on any old engine stand or does it need something fancy? Any top tips for vacuum line bundles or just search for everything a la carte? Same for heat exchanger seals?

Drop the engine! Just remember, if you�re using a Harbor Freight lift table, you need 25 1/2� clearance between the floor and your oil sump for the engine to clear the chassis and roll out from under the car. Good Luck ​​​​​​​

Last time I pulled a motor I was using a tractor. Not quite the same level of precision.

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After seeing this level of mechanical ingenuity, With Quickjacks and a lift table to drop the power-unit, you will be in hog heaven, piece of cake..!!!!

With the SUV lifts for the QuickJack can I get the car high enough to pull the engine out with a Harbor Freight lift table? The math's on the internet seem a bit tough to figure out. Has anyone done this? If so, then I think that's probably a slam dunk.

I did mine with lift bars, Jack stands and 6x6 dunnage� it took awhile (probably close to an hour - but I was being super careful and triple checking everything as I didn�t want to be pancaked under my car) but ultimately it worked out great. With quick jacks it should be a piece o� cake!

Pull the engine for easier access, especially for the AOS and its dastardly small hose and clip to the crankcase! Also, very important, change out your oil fill tube with engine out, source of many vacuum leaks. I actually built a small wooden cradle on casters that I lowered the engine/transmission down onto with rear wheels removed, undid the previously loosened engine and trans mounts, and used a ratchet device called a "come along" suspended from my garage ceiling joists to lift the rear of the car up high enough to roll the engine/tranny out from under the car. I had previously used the same setup to pull the engine/tranny out from under my former 69 Jaguar E-Type. Works like a charm. Best of luck.

Definitely pull the engine. It makes the replacement of the AOS and coolant tank so much easier. I found the most difficult thing to be removal of the back bolt for the air conditioning compressor.

I did more or less this same project, last May. Used a set of the 5K Quick Jacks and a couple of floor jacks. I did have to lift the back of the car up a bit further to slide the engine out, once it was dropped. No engine stand, I just sat it on a wooden dolly from Harbor Freight. In addition to your parts list, I did the timing chain tensioners, oil cooler o-rings, starter & y-cable and the crank position sensor (did you already mention RMS?). Oh, and I also did the transmission mount bushing. My parts replacement strategy was based on never wanting to do this again. Mainly worked solo, with my 80yr old step dad there for moral support and to dial 911 if I hurt myself

If you have pulled engines from other cars before I have a feeling you will find this different but on the easier side of your scale of experience.

Ok guys, you've convinced me. I appreciate all the input. Now I just need help finalizing everything I need to buy: - HF Lift Table - SUV Risers for quickjack / or blocks of wood - Heat Exchanger Seals - AOS Vent Tube - Motor Mounts Any recommendations on where to get vacuum lines? What about Trans Mount? Should I do Starter Cable, Y-Cable and CPS? Should I do chain tensioners even if deviations are good? Coolant Tank and Oil Filler Tube have already been replaced.

Fishah- Tensioners? If you have good numbers, just check torque and seepage. Install a higher duro trans mount insert (good products from Powerflex and Rennline and Function-First). If any electrical cables look iffy, you’re gonna replace them. Check out the threads on adding additional grounding cables. Check FCP, AutohauzAZ and ECS first for vacuum lines and assorted elbows and system paraphernalia. Pelican once had easy site to peruse for photos of what part number you need, but after they updated their website format, I can’t say I like using it anymore.

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