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YOUR RESEARCHno wheel movement
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clutch
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Leading evidence: 'clutch' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'clutch' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check /' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I checked the cable mounts to the transmission and were intact.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I had previously replaced the coils, sparks, water pump, thermostat, and AOS about 5k miles ago.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I let my second wife's Explorer with the good ole 5.0 engine go 250K miles on the original spark plugs , and 4 of them were still like new ( wasted spark system) when I replaced them due to a plug wire misfire....after that I was driving it and noticed the transmission had 2nd 3rd 4th and OD but no 1st gear...It took off fine with lots of power in 2nd gear and she had't complained about it, so I didn't tell her..lol ..
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Suggestion
However, you are going to have your engine dropped which is a big cost in itself, so you can save $1000 in a future cost to have it dropped again by replacing the AOS now with the UAOS track version which means you get all of the added benefits plus not have to worry about the AOS failing leading to smoking, intermix and hydralock.
Replace following catastrophic engine failure points such as water pump
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Suggestion
You might as well replace the following catastrophic engine failure points such as water pump with a new oem water pump and oem aos with the UAOS track version (even if you don't track the car).
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Suggestion · Original poster
This weekend I drove the car after a cold start and noticed that the RPM needle remained around 2.5k whilst changing gear from 1st to 2nd then 3rd unable to avoid going above 3k.As always I tried to avoid going above 3k before the engine had properly warmed up to 180F.
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2004 C4S manual
110k+ miles
This weekend I drove the car after a cold start and noticed that the RPM needle remained around 2.5k whilst changing gear from 1st to 2nd then 3rd unable to avoid going above 3k.As always I tried to avoid going above 3k before the engine had properly warmed up to 180F. This was odd I thought. I couldn't keep the RPM below 3k while trying to reach an appropriatedriving speed. Once it warmed up I was able to drive normally on the highway without any engine light or problem w/ acceleration. The following day I once again experienced the same thing. Upon driving home from my girlfriend's house I was on the highway when I suddenly could not get the car to fully accelerate and it felt bogged down. No engine light. I stopped on the side and turned off the engine. I turned it back on, went to 1st gear but the wheels would not move. I tried all gears no go. The RPM needle moved up without any hesitation as I depressed on the pedal and the engine sounded normal. I then noticed I was able to go to any gear without depressing the clutch and the engine would not stall. I had the car towed back home. I thought it may be a broken shifter cable but tonight while looking under the car the metal arm that is mounted to the transmission body/cable changes position when I shifted. So this told me that the connection was intact from the shifter console to the transmission. I checked the cable mounts to the transmission and were intact. I had previously zip tied the cable mounts. I checked the rear axle connections and they seemed intact as well w/o obvious play or leak. This leads me to think that the clutch or whatever contact point from engine to transmission is at fault. Is this your thought as well?
Sounds like your clutch had started to slip then finally went completely out . Did you notice any unusual smell while this was happening? Normally when a clutch burns out the resin that bonds the fibers together burns and gives off an unforgettable sttinch like nothing you have ever smelled before.
now that you mentioned it I do smell something like burnt plastic. I thought it may had been coolant as while I was parked some coolant overflowed. Which is not unusual for my car. There is a leak on the reservoir. Which I been meaning to replace this winter.
well I been also meaning to replace the IMSB so I�ll plan on dropping the transmission and find out. It will be a first but I am sure an educating experience.
If you are going thru the exercise of replacing the clutch, flywheel, rms, imsb and reservoir...
You might as well replace the following catastrophic engine failure points such as water pump with a new oem water pump and oem aos with the UAOS track version (even if you don't track the car). I would even replace the oil cooler which is a source for intermix. I just did.
Not to mention replace other parts that you want to keep fresh such as: plugs, coils, fuel injectors, maf.
Now you have the major issues covered and just have to deal with 25 year old plastic, rubber and metal stuff breaking that arent catastrophic but are a pita when they break.
I had previously replaced the coils, sparks, water pump, thermostat, and AOS about 5k miles ago. However the AOS was not the UAOS.
I will probably replace the oil cooler as you suggested. As well as the fuel injectors and the flywheel.
I was looking at affordable clutch kits and came across
SACHS
K7029002 for $289 at RockAuto and the
LUK
DMF024
Dual Mass Flywheel for $501
. Reliable replacements?
Sounds like a fun busy winter project
You are good with what you replaced 5k ago. Check with your indy about clutch and flywheel. You may want to have them order it so they cant blame it on what you ordered if something goes wrong.
It's a catch 22 situation with your AOS. It will fail but it's new, so you probably have a few more years with it. However, you are going to have your engine dropped which is a big cost in itself, so you can save $1000 in a future cost to have it dropped again by replacing the AOS now with the UAOS track version which means you get all of the added benefits plus not have to worry about the AOS failing leading to smoking, intermix and hydralock.
Comes down to a balancing act between prevention and cash outlay. I have found for me, that when incuring the cost of dropping your engine, do as much while you are in there stuff as you can that is needed. The more you do now, you longer window you will have with a good night's sleep and enjoyable long term driving. If you a DIY guy, you may feel differently.
I just did my second 10 year major refresh on my engine 2 years ago. Had the engine dropped, my indy replaced all the parts we have been talking about. But I made one huge mistake, I didn't have them replace various power steering pipes/hoses that were 20 years old. Didn't think about it, so we focused on engine stuff. Wouldn't you know it, I sprung a power steering fluid leak about a year after the refresh. I could have easily instructed my indy to replace them when the engine was down. But I didn't think about it. So I had to pay for the extra hours of service to replace them which would have been cheaper to just do it previously.
But this is all part of the enjoyment of taking care of a 20+ year old 996. I would do it all over again today just like I did over the last 22 years. The 996 is worth it in my opinion.
Your call. You can drop the trans or the whole engine & trans. I liked to have my indy drop it all and go over it when I was tracking the car. 360 view. We would then look it over and decide what to do.
Unsolicited advice. Be cautious taking do’s and dont’s from checkbook mechanics (don’t actually know how to fix anything).
If you’re a diy’r… those checkbook mechanics will spend your money like it’s going out of style.
It sounds like your first order of business should be confirming what’s wrong with your car… how much time/effort/energy/cash you are going to spend on repair and while you’re in there parts are all things to consider AFTER you have confirmed the fault.
Good luck man.
FWIW there is no such thing as over maintaining/servicing a car IMO...the car and all parts start to wear out as soon as the engine is started or the parts are made( rubber)...It all depends on personal preference as to how "new" you want your car/parts to be...
I let my second wife's Explorer with the good ole 5.0 engine go 250K miles on the original spark plugs , and 4 of them were still like new ( wasted spark system) when I replaced them due to a plug wire misfire....after that I was driving it and noticed the transmission had 2nd 3rd 4th and OD but no 1st gear...It took off fine with lots of power in 2nd gear and she had't complained about it, so I didn't tell her..lol .. She just would have been scared to death to drive it and wanted it fixed if I mentioned it...so I never told her, she totaled it at 300k...
But spark plugs and coils ect. are WAY different from oil changes, oil type, or things that can have/cause chain reactions or catastrophic failures...Those things need to be done in a comprehensive routine..
As far as doing a few more little things while you are doing a big job, it is just wise $$$ , like while doing the clutch, put in a new RMS, IMS, and AOS...especially if you are paying $150-$200 per hr. or if you just don't think you will have time to go back in there for quite a while...
Had been dealing with covid with a symptom of apathy
and sore throat.
anyways finally got the transmission dropped today.
and yup definitely it was the clutch. found bunches of black fine filaments in the transmission cavity.
flywheel have grooves as well but not deep.
no leak from the RMS and IMSB.
well time to order a clutch kit and flywheel.
might as well get a URO oil cooler. Mahler versus URO?
and the RND cylindrical bearing
and the RMS seal.
and genuine coolant reservoir
should I go ahead replace the slave cylinder too? is this prone to failure?
i'll wait on the fuel injectors.
I am doubting whether it is necessary to replace the flywheel as the surface has very swallow grooves.
It springs back perfectly.
What I took off is a LUK flywheel so not the factory.
I know yes you shouldn't re-surface the DMF but this imperfection seems very superficial.
I rather not spend $483 on a new one and use instead toward an IMSB replacement
Does the DMF move no more than 5/8" (15mm) in either direction? That's how LuK specifies how to determine good vs bad DMF.
I would not replace it since as you say the grooves are only very shallow.
I would not replace the IMS bearing for a roller bearing. Instead I would (and have done) just remove the seal of the original bearing.
yes less than 15mm. It is able to rotate with resistance one tooth (left and right) exactly relative to the gears and springs back easily to original position.
the IMS is the LN retrofit placed several years ago by previous owner. so I think a replacement is overdue.
Good move.
IMHO whenever changing out a clutch always cut/change the flywheel & bolts. also change the Throw out bearing, and input shaft bearing/bushing. Slave cylinder is also a good idea while checking/replacing the pivot/arm/etc.
This will give you a flat, true, with the proper rms finish, to seat the clutch perfectly for a smooth feeling clutch with the longest full lifespan. Never seen a DMF resurfaced properly, maybe some machine shops can do 1, idk.
The Sachs clutch kit comes with the clutch release bearing (which lays in the center of the pivot arm). I didn't see any other bearing from the tear down.
I did order a new pivot ball with the rubber on it.
Will keep the old retainer clip for the pivot ball rubber and the pivot arm as those two remains intact.
What am I missing?
