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YOUR RESEARCHCSF Radiator Question
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Install dictates
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The side they are installed dictates which one has the connector and which one has a plug.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
There are 2 so the rads can be installed on either side.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
So when I installed the radiators I plugged the holes with nice thick rubber vacuum hose caps.
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It needs to at the top of the radiator, swapped with the plug.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I put a rubber plug on it and used a hose clamp on hoth sides.
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Outcome without a verified action link
Luckily last night it happened in the Harbor Freight parking lot with an Autozone about 1/4 mile away so I just went and bought a new rubber plug and coolant and fixed it in the parking lot with borrowed HF tools.
Radiator question:
I recently installed CSF radiators, Ac condensers, and new hoses in my 99� 996. However I haven�t figured out what this oulet is in the corner of both radiators see pic). I put a rubber plug on it and used a hose clamp on hoth sides.
Whatever it goes two, twice now the passenger side has burst and left me about 3 gallons low on coolant on the side of the road. Luckily last night it happened in the Harbor Freight parking lot with an Autozone about 1/4 mile away so I just went and bought a new rubber plug and coolant and fixed it in the parking lot with borrowed HF tools.
Nobody I talk to knows what this is. Maybe I should connect the two radiators with a hose? There is seemingly only pressure on the passenger side radiator which keeps busting so I assume this is a vent or a recirculation spout of some sort?
Any help if someone actually knows what this is would be appreciated. The ratty OEM radiators I pulled off didnt have these spouts.
Steam vent.
Here you can see on the stock rad and the line that was attached. From FCP install guide here
https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-repl...-996-radiators
bro, I can�t tell if you�re joking or not. I�ve been working on cars probably longer than you�ve been alive. This is an honest question. You are guesstimating here and its not helpful. Look at my picture and look at yours. One (OEM) has no ridge on it and mine looks like there should be a hose attached to it. But on a 996.1 there is no random hose in the fender well that I somehow didn�t see.
If you don�t know the answer thats ok, but please don�t give me your assumptions or attempt to be funny here. Thats a request not an order.
That is the hose that leads back to the coolant tank that allows the front radiators to fill with coolant. Without it, the tops of the radiators would never pass the air trapped at the top.
The poster above is absolutely correct.
The video from fcp talks about that the passenger radiator comes with the connector in the wrong place. It needs to at the top of the radiator, swapped with the plug. What guide did you use for the installation of these? I see an apology coming
@zbomb
s way.
the CSF radiators are used for the NA and FI cars. This is most likely for the turbo cars.
My application is for NA as posted above. I�m taking off the bumper right now. If there is something I missed or its busted and somehow didn�t see it I�ll snap a pic and apologize, if not well. There�s only room for one of us to look like an a$$😎
Just pull the wheel and fender liner - no need to mess with the bumper.
And yeah, you really don't seem to know how any of this works which is a surprise from someone with so much more wrenching experience than me... I guess that could make you look like an ***.
Your first pic in the original post shows the radiator with a plug and a connector. The side they are installed dictates which one has the connector and which one has a plug. Once again this is discussed in the fcp video. Look at 15:20
So its not in the wrong place. Evidently everyone was quick on the gun to be a smart *** but nobody picked up on the fact that maybe you just need to plug it. See this is a great thread. Now the next guy will know what to do.😎
The one in that video is a different version of the ones CSF sold me or those are older. Look at mine closely. Do you see a bracket place that could hold a bolt? The inlets are welded bro.
It is not meant to be plugged like you show it's done on yours. Good luck. Can't help someone that can't at least be open to understanding what they've done wrong.
Edit:
The one you showed in the first post is a CSF radiator for a 996. It has a removable connector and plug. I don't know what you have installed.
https://tarett.com/products/all-alum...hoCwE8QAvD_BwE
I pulled the first pic off the internet. The video in FCP is talking about something my car doesn�t have. NOBODY except for myself cane to the conclusion that you need to just plug one. Both radiators were identical.
What
@hbdunn
said... How is anyone supposed to know the question you're asking in the OP is about a different part than the one you posted and referenced in your question. Your picture showed 1 port circled, that one port needs to be connected to the vent line... which is what you were told over and over.
The reason NOBODY came to the conclusion you did is cause NOBODY knew you had a radiator with 2 nipples instead of 2 threaded ports, 1 plugged and 1 with a fitting as every CSF I have ever seen came.
It appears you have the wrong part or need to contact the vendor you purchased from and ask them how they suggest that unused port be capped in a reliable way.
Look your original suggestion was wrong. The hose you pointed to in your pic is the same reservoir line that is connected on mine so I did the job right as I have done about 20 times on 911�s. This was however the first CSF radiator I�ve installed and the first that has had two ports like this, its weird.
Evidently NOBODY else did either. Not you not
@hbdunn
not anyone.
Wasn�t entirely a waste of my time but, useless arguing is. I�m going to put my car back together now and have pizza.
Hope you learned something from all this.
I showed you a picture above of mine with two nipples. I also described a random nipple that was leaking. I also said the car was driving fine. If you has any experience you would know that if I have anything important unconnected the car would not drive fine and then all of the sudden blow coolant. The system wouldn�t have even pressurized.
Do you think these kind of comments are cool or something? Be productive man. Be positive. Don�t comment on a post if don�t know what you�re talking about.
Yeah, I learned you are a dope. You couldn't pay me to ride in a car you have turned a wrench on.
You didn't say anything about a random nipple leaking - you said the below - 1 port pictured that you said was capped. Which is wrong. Nowhere did you say anything about a 2nd port.
Maybe if you had read my post and then asked questions you wouldn�t be feeling like this. Nobody forced you to participate and try to help. You got yourself all worked up for nothin.
Not that you will give any credit to me but I have tracked down the discrepancy.
You seam to have the CSF 3564 which is the OE replacement model. Not the 7044 which is the CSF racing version which is the only one I have ever seen discussed here.
I would suggest contacting CSF to see what they recommend as t the best way to plug the lower hole.
Fantastic, thank you for finding this for me. So I do have the right radiators. They came with flimsy plastic plugs that fell off. I mean one of them was even cracked. So when I installed the radiators I plugged the holes with nice thick rubber vacuum hose caps. I thought I was �upgrading � them until one blew. So maaaybe just maybe the cap I put on had a hairline crack.
Either way I�ll call CSF and check now that I have the part numbers.
The 7044, besides having a reliable threaded plug, is a better radiator. It would seem as though the only benefit of the 3564 vs stock is the aluminum end tanks and I think it's debatable if thats even an improvement over the stock plastic. The 7044 with the thicker dual core is definitely the way to go if you're spending money on an aftermarket radiator.
Makes sense the OP would buy the wrong one.
I would not expect extra cooling capacity with that over OEM. Plus for aluminum tanks, big minus for the single row and huge minus for the second non-threaded plug, IE with a bung to cap. He's already seen what issue that can cause...
Nice did you discover this all by yourself? This whole time you�ve just been sitting there with it all figured out. Awesome!
Maybe I didn�t see the difference when I was ordering off the internet, or when it showed up and clearly stated 996.1 Radiator on the packaging.
Honestly, OEM radiators are good enough to track with as it is. Aluminum housing radiators are stronger than plastic and more solid, that has already been scientifically proven since about 1970. The ones I bought were the only option for my 99� which I found and they were about $300 each which� who cares. I just need to see what the fix is.
Did the cap you installed on the lower port split or come off under pressure? IE, when you dumped in the parking lot, was it still there with the clamp, just popped the cap, or was cap and clamp gone?
If cap burst, clamp present, could simply be bad cap, cheap, old/aged out or you could have a larger issue. What prompted the radiator change?
A proper cap with good clamp should hold the "normal" psi of a normal cooling system. If the clamp is overtightened then the cap can fail, undertightened both disappear.
If for some reason you have an engine issue, cracked head, leaking head gasket, you could be pressurizing your cooling system and that cap may be the weakest link.
Nope - the 7044 are an option. A better option at that !
But I suppose we should just be impressed someone of your intelligence could figure out how to order radiators off the internet at all. So, solid work.
For everyone else - don't be like this guy - buy the 7044 have better radiators and no jenky vacuum plug/hose clamp holding your cooling system together. Or, just keep the stock one's which I think is the best option.
I think it was just a weak cap, because it was still attached with a little torn hole in it.
No the car runs very strong. I did the IMS and clutch on it recently. Driven the **** out if it so I think yeah just a weak cap.
I just bought the car and am doing all the basic maintenance first. AC was out so I pulled bumper and noticed the radiators were messed up. So I decided to change them.
A
vacuum cap
is not meant to hold pressure, it will blow again. don't trust it. Not for pressure or coolant.
For a fast hack that will last, use some good quality coolant hose and a bolt or some type of tight plug with clamps.
Best permanent fix, cut nipple off, drill it and tap it for a pipe plug if you've got enough material, or weld in a bung for a (drain)plug like 7044 CSF come with.
You got the CSF oem replacement, I sent a set of those single row back even though they were cheap. imo not even as good as oem except for the tanks.
ZB is correct, the dual row 7044 with extra cooling capacity, with fittings, is the way to go for these heat sensitive M96 engines. Even the dual row CSF clones for $ 219 from Amazon are better than the oem single row replacements imo, although they do need a few mods....
jmo
Ok, Gotcha. I�ll do the coolant hose and bolt thing. As far as sending them back� yeah you maybe right. I flushed the coolant good and properly mixed it. Put a cooler thermostat from LN, has a new water pump, new hoses. Just took it for a spin and really drove it. Its, maintaining a nice cool steady temp. I did turn the heater on a couple times to kick the fans on. I don�t know just how much cooler a dual row rad is by comparison. But the temps are similar to my 996tt which has the three radiators.
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