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YOUR RESEARCHEngine Compartment fan - failure
Reported or suspected cause
sensor (#12)
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Suspected cause · Original poster
Found this diagram after a search, and suspect the sensor (#12), but after the engine cooled I reached around in there but can't feel anything.
Leading evidence: 'sensor (#12)' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'sensor (#12)' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace with porsche coolant two weeks ago' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Should have mentioned I had my coolant tank replaced and system drained and replaced with Porsche coolant two weeks ago.
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Suggestion
Your fans were probably running due to low coolant level.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Got home and found the fan running full blast, and did so for awhile (not sure how long).
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Went out to the bank yesterday and after about 15 minutes I got this warning, and the red light on the temp guage started blinking. Temp seemed to be a bit over 180, but not much. Got home and found the fan running full blast, and did so for awhile (not sure how long). Started it later and all seemed well though I didn't drive it yet. Found this diagram after a search, and suspect the sensor (#12), but after the engine cooled I reached around in there but can't feel anything. Any thoughts? ('02 C2)
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...sor/?&p=206679
Blinking coolant light is low coolant level. Solid coolant light is overheating. The engine compartment temperature sensor is located on the right side between the intake runners. It should be easily visible and has been known to fall out of the grommet that holds it in place. Then it sits against the block and makes the engine compartment fan come on.
Your fans were probably running due to low coolant level. Start there.
And not to throw paranoia out there......low coolant could be just that or low coolant could be caused from something else. I'd top it off with Porsche coolant or Pentosin (make sure the Pentosin is the correct one for alum motors) and make sure to open the burp valve. Drive it around a day or so and close the valve and watch it from there.
Thanks. Should have mentioned I had my coolant tank replaced and system drained and replaced with Porsche coolant two weeks ago. Not by Porsche Indy, but good mechanic who followed Pelican printouts I gave him. I also tried to be sure there was no air when I got it home.
Coolant level was my first thought as well, but sitting here cold this morning it's between the minimum and max marks. I'll add some 50/50 mix, but I'm not sure that's my only issue.
Still haven't found the sensor, but if its supposed to be easy to see in there, it's not on my car! Can't feel anything loose, but haven't gotten under it yet.
"Four functions of the coolant warning light:
1. Engine coolant level too low -- light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz)
2. Engine compartment temperature too high -- light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) (engine compartment blower might be faulty)
3. Engine coolant temperature too high -- light is lit; pointer on the right
4. Temperature sensor at water outlet faulty -- light flashes rapidly (1 Hz) ; pointer on the right
Note: The temperature warning in point three is indicated if the conditions "engine coolant temperature too high" and "engine coolant level too low" are present simultaneously."
Is it possible the compartment fan sensor loses it's ability to read temperature?
Just wondering because my fan never comes on, unless I unplug it then it comes on. The fan used to come on after driving it and turning the car off in the garage but I can't recall it ever doing it recently.
Most likely you sensor just fell straight down and rest on top of the engine so it reads VERY hot.
Once you find it, put some vasaline/dielectric grease on the OUTSIDE of the rubber grommet to help it slide into place between the runners.
Ditto what Ahsai said. Be careful when inserting the sensor back into the grommet if the grommet is already attached to the intake runners. It has a tendency to pop out and fall below into the depths of the engine bay and you'll likely never be able to retrieve it. Ask me how I know. Luckily replacement grommets are cheap.
Here's a shot of the area. I think the sensor is at the end of the wire I've looped over the positive terminal (just to help identify it in the pic), but it seems to be caught on something. No amount of wiggling has freed it.
That looks the wire for AC compressor. The sensor should be further back. Take your hand and feel between the plastic intakes. There is a rounded groove where the sensor sits.
"That looks the wire for AC compressor. The sensor should be further back. Take your hand and feel between the plastic intakes. There is a rounded groove where the sensor sits."
Thanks. I've been trying to do as you suggest, but my big hand isn't helping things. I'll give it a shot again in the AM!
Update! I finally found the wire and sensor with a light up through the fender well, hanging way down. Grommet is gone, but now I see how it should fit. I've tucked the sensor between the A/C lines for the time being, so at least it's happy at the moment. Guess I'll look at Pelican's site to find a new grommet. Thanks for all of the help!
Awesome! Good news is the part is 2 bucks but the shipping is $15. The key to installing is put the sensor in the grommet first...put some dielectric grease on the grommet to help it slide in place.
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