Nanoparticle engine repair..snake oil?

https://www.techbriefs.com/component...tcshyzY7vrq_gk Interesting new technology or just more snake oil?

No clue. But if you want Nano technology in your oil, take a look at Millers Nano synthetic oil. It's expensive but very good oil.

My BS detector is flashing red

Sounds like the newest in a long line of miracle engine rebuild in a can products to me. All of which fail to produce the claimed result.

How many folks remember Mobil buying back engines when they tried graphite in their oil in the 70's My uncles shop did about a dozen replacements.. Graphite clumps turn out to be really a bad thing in an engine.. Who'd a thunk it..

Is the samestuff used to produce Cold Fusion, too?

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Hard to say, even if NASA did give him a grant. I'd lean towards the former. It would be fun to see what it does for bore scoring...!

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If the oil companies and government municipalities adopt it, then it is probably real. However, I'm not rushing to be a first to pour it into my engine.

And Slick 50 was approved by NASA too....I'm rushing out to get some again Xcelplus Brings the Original Slick 50 Formula Back to (globenewswire.com)

I used seafoam in my land rover at 150k miles. the oil came out super black and full of carbon I suppose. It seems like it has reduced oil consumption 1qt/1000 miles) considerably. thats one test so take it with a grain of salt

Seafoam is over 100 years old in the marine industry with literally millions of engines using it. Its original use was to "fog" the old tech gas engines and diesels when being shut down for extended periods. Many commercial fisherman today use it in ever tank of fuel, their engines cost about what a nice 911 costs.. and they have 2.. Marvel mystery oil same deal, it was originally sold to put in the oiler on a Marvel carburetor on tractors to lube the top end of the old flathead motors, the valves were notorious for sticking. My grandfathers 1930's John Deer had a water tank, it had a label on the tank 5 gallons water 1 Gallon Alcohol , 1 can Marvel mystery oil. Marvel wasn't trade marked till about 1942 when it started shipping in mass quantities to the military. When you were pulling hard, you opened a valve on the dash and the water was sucked in to the intake manifold to help build power and protect the valves from burning. The intake and exhaust manifold was 1 solid chunk of cast iron, the liquid passed through the exhaust to the bore for each of the 2 cylinders.. Some things have just been tested by time..

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seafoam smells like naptha to me

Seafoam is nothing more than a mix of solvents and surfactants, closer to nail polish remover than anything else.

Sometimes simple is the answer.. Funny as I was reading , the add at the bottom of the screen flipped to a ZDDP additive add.. LOL

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Don't know how many got this, but it is funny!

We had some Marvel Mystery Oil laying around the shop. I have some serious bore scoring that causes ticking I would imagine from piston slap. I finally decided to see what the MMO would do, if anything. NO LIE! I put a quart in the engine and a bottle in the tank. It made a tremendous difference. The clacking is still there, but at about 90% less Is it fixed? NO. Is it liveable until I can get with Jake? Absolutely!!!

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Now in prison where she belongs...and the inclusion in this thread was absolutely perfect!

I like how folks assume the MSRP is the "recipe." A Material Safety Data Sheet (aka SDS - Safety Data Sheet) is designed to let shippers know what might be toxic/flammable/dangerous in the event of a spill. It doesn't list everything - just the scary bits. I was the marketing guy for many years for a company that produced fuel additives. I can assure we used only the best-quality snakes. The active ingredients were a tiny fraction of the whole product, and didn't make the MSDS as they were not harmful, so folks "knew" the carrier was the product and thus we lied. Not so much. Are all miracle products really real? Probably not. But some might. Just sayin'

I mean, if it can save your engine from an expensive rebuild for a few miles, why not try it? Fact: you can drive a m96/97 with bore scoring for many many years with heavier oil, regular oil changes and good driving habits. My car has 98k miles and only has mild / minor bore scoring in cyl 6, it burns no oil, there's no soot, no ticking, etc. But if it did have scoring, I would damn well try an additive to extend the life of the engine to keep it on the road until I could fund a spot at hartech or https://flat6innovations.com/ . Likely the latter as I'm in NC, and my Indy has a relationship and past experiences with them. I'm actually a fan of ceratec, and my 6 month oil change included a treatment followed by a long drive. I wouldn't use it with every change, but my Indy has told me it's safe to use and won't hurt. He doesn't sell it, I had to take the bottles to him. More importantly we should all use good oil for the old girls. I'm using motul 8100 x-cess 5w40, v1, rather than the v2, while I can get it. UOA and regular filter exams are your friend. Zddp should be carefully considered. I researched and choose not to use it based on what I learned. There's enough in the oil I use. I'm a skeptic, but as the song goes, 'desperate times call for deperate measures'. RIP Gordie. I'm going out to the drive it's overcast and cool, a perfect day to install my fire extinguisher 🔥. Or attempt to. I ordered a bracket off Etsy that has good reviews - https://www.etsy.com/listing/1192102...e-extinguisher . Review and pics, may follow.

Marvel Mystery Oil is definitely the real deal. I use it in every tank of my vintage car and it runs better and helps keep the carburetor shafts lubricated. Some well-known mechanics I know highly recommend MMO in vintage cars. I don't typically use MMO in more modern cars, though many people do. I also don't use it in oil, only in gas. Would like to hear more from those who use MMO in their 996 gas, and from those who use it in oil.

When I was wrenching for my dinner in the 1970's we sold an oil additive called "BG". It was thickish, not as syrupy as STP but at that end of the viscosity scale. The only evidence I have that it did any good is this: at that time the V12 Jaguar engines had an issue with the cam buckets wearing and requiring frequent replacement (I was working in a British Leyland dealership and we saw lots of Jags). Our shop never had a single cam bucket issue. Was it the BG? I'll never know. We also saw a lot of blown head gaskets on TR7s. We'd spray the new head gasket with copper gasket sealer and never had to do a head gasket a second time. Was it the gasket sealer? Or was it cruddy head torquing at the factory. I'll never know. But I still use copper gasket gunk in some places.