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YOUR RESEARCH996 Turbo - What year to buy?
Leading reported evidence
Check any leak sign
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0
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The biggies: coolant hose fittings in the block; water pump; RMS (yes the RMS can leak: I have the $1700 repair bill as proof of that); spoiler cylinders; radiators; power steering lines/fittings; power steering rack; rear and front diff axle flange seals; CV boots (don't forget the front axle CV boots!); tranny selector shaft seals; and of course every hose, fitting, gasket, seal, or coupling needs to be checked for any leak sign.
Leading evidence: 'Check any leak sign' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check any leak sign' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Because where I live and drive is mild I run Mobil 1 5w-50.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The Turbo is just a used car so you need to give it a thorough used car check out.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
The turbo oil seals can leak but these require the air intake hoses be removed and a check made of the intercoolers to see if they are accumulating oil.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Check any leak sign
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The biggies: coolant hose fittings in the block; water pump; RMS (yes the RMS can leak: I have the $1700 repair bill as proof of that); spoiler cylinders; radiators; power steering lines/fittings; power steering rack; rear and front diff axle flange seals; CV boots (don't forget the front axle CV boots!); tranny selector shaft seals; and of course every hose, fitting, gasket, seal, or coupling needs to be checked for any leak sign.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
The turbo oil seals can leak but these require the air intake hoses be removed and a check made of the intercoolers to see if they are accumulating oil.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
The biggies: coolant hose fittings in the block; water pump; RMS (yes the RMS can leak: I have the $1700 repair bill as proof of that); spoiler cylinders; radiators; power steering lines/fittings; power steering rack; rear and front diff axle flange seals; CV boots (don't forget the front axle CV boots!); tranny selector shaft seals; and of course every hose, fitting, gasket, seal, or coupling needs to be checked for any leak sign.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Suggestion
There is much more to it, but basically: add power, better suspension bits, remove awd, add LSD, shed weight, GT2 slave cylinder, and change the front bumper and rear decklid/spoiler.
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Suggestion
The engine is just fine with this oil in it, but in anticipation of the 100F+ heat sure to arrive here this summer next oil change I'll have the dealer use 5w-50.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
17 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261027T165639Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I have recently lost the engine in my 996 C2 and am now waiting to get it back from the shop with a replacement engine. I have been told by two different mechanics (both Porsche and indy) that it is likely the IMSB failure (even though I had the LNE upgrade 2 years, 20K miles, ago). Anyhow, I never want to go through this experience again, so I am looking for a non-IMSB 996 to replace my current P-car. My 1st choice would be a 996 GT3, but it seems that I missed the boat on that one. Next up is the 996 turbo, which I understand can be relatively easily converted to a GT2. I don't know much about the turbo, so would appreciate any input. Which year to buy, maintenance issues, etc.
Well, the top dog is the 2005 Turbo S. The X50 Kit doesn't seem to be a big value add because the normal Turbo is apparently a better base for an inexpensive ECU flash that will give you more and better power than the X50. Main difference in the 2001 model is the Mark I interior. Rear spoiler hydraulic lift Rams are a common and somewhat expensive problem leading many owners to use do an aftermarket fixed wing instead of repair.
Not sure how close a 996 Turbo can be brought to a 996 GT2. You are I think better just leaving the Turbo a Turbo.
As for the year, buy the newest one you can find and afford.
Early ones lacked a glove box and had the goofy rubber bumper bumps the later models lacked. The later models also gained a glove box.
There was some strengthening of the car but I don't believe the earlier examples really suffer from lack of strength.
If you find one with the factory NAV system be sure you can get new discs for it, and they do not cost an arm and a leg.
The Turbo is just a used car so you need to give it a thorough used car check out.
Be sure the engine starts up and runs from dead cold with no scary noises. The engine can be a big rough cold but as it idles and gets a bit warmer should smooth out and when the RPMs drop to near normal hot idle the engine should be pretty smooth. Maybe not as smooth as you are used to, though. I know my Boxster engine is buttery smooth compared to my Turbo engine.
Have the seller take you on a 15 mile test ride. Be sure the route lets the driver demo the car as you intend to use it.
Back at the starting point then you take the car out and drive the same route, drive the car the same way.
Back at the starting point again give the car a thorough used car check out. Assume nothing works until you verify it does.
These cars are expensive to put right. For instance, if the spoiler doesn't up/down right that can cost over $2K to replace. A bum headlight can be a $200 bulb but it can be a nearly $1K igniter.
There is the old 2nd gear (any gear) popout issue.
There is the clutch accumulator, and slave cylinder. If the clutch is hard to depress when you first get the car the accumuator is probably shot. If you feel pulsing through the pedal when the engine is running and you depress the clutch: accumulator. If after you shut off th engine and depress and release the clutch if the clutch pedal gets hard after just a few pushes the accumulator is bad.
If there is any fluid stain on the panel under the front trunk lid in front of the driver this is a the clutch slave cylinder failing.
Be sure the radiators are all dry. Check these *after* your test ride/drive when you park the car hot and let it sit while you check other things. If you smell anti-freeze around the front of the car one or more radiators can be leaking. Cost me $4600 to replace all 3 last Jan.
Be sure the radiator fans blow the same amount of hot air. I've had two radiator fan motors quit on my car.
If the car is a manual and you hear a faint high pitched squeal when you roll up to a stop after slipping the tranny into neutral and releasing the clutch, that's a high pressure valve in the power steering tank. This can run $1000 for a new tank the valve is not available separately.
Be sure the idler roller bearings are quiet. I've replaced these twice now.
After your check out then if you still like the car and believe you can make a deal for it, arrange for a PPI. This -- among other things -- gets the car int eh air and a through check is made for any leak sign.
Check everything. The biggies: coolant hose fittings in the block; water pump; RMS (yes the RMS can leak: I have the $1700 repair bill as proof of that); spoiler cylinders; radiators; power steering lines/fittings; power steering rack; rear and front diff axle flange seals; CV boots (don't forget the front axle CV boots!); tranny selector shaft seals; and of course every hose, fitting, gasket, seal, or coupling needs to be checked for any leak sign.
The turbo oil seals can leak but these require the air intake hoses be removed and a check made of the intercoolers to see if they are accumulating oil. A check is made of the turbo compressor wheel. If the seals are leaking this can have oil on it.
With a proper alignment, rear tires can last 20K miles. If they are worn on the inside edges, that's new tires and a proper 4-wheel alignment.
Plugs require changing more often. I do not remember the schedule. Some owners seem to go through coils. Mod'd engines seem to be harder on plugs, coils and MAFs. My stock Turbo's coils are original at 133K miles but next time I have the car in I'm having the coils replaced.
Had the O2 sensors done a few K miles ago: $1000+.
IF the front air dam is busted up that's a $300+ new one from the factory. You can remove the old one and install the new one yourself. (I did mine.)
The air dam drags at almost every driveway. You have approach or leave the drive on an angle and go very slowly or you'll leave the thing busted up on pieces on the road. If you pull far into a parking space you'll push the thing in to where it looks like a Pug's nose.
Like my Boxster I do the oil/filter every 5K miles. Because where I live and drive is mild I run Mobil 1 5w-50. Where you are probably 0w-40 is the better oil.
My Turbo has this oil in it now as I had the oil changed in Springfield MO early in Jan. and the dealer only had 0w-40 oil available. The engine is just fine with this oil in it, but in anticipation of the 100F+ heat sure to arrive here this summer next oil change I'll have the dealer use 5w-50.
I'm in the process of converting my turbo into a faux GT2. There is much more to it, but basically: add power, better suspension bits, remove awd, add LSD, shed weight, GT2 slave cylinder, and change the front bumper and rear decklid/spoiler.
OP mentioned tracking his car so PCCB option might not make financial sense as consumables.
He should though consider GT3 Cup Car 350mm brake upgrade as those have ceramic pistons but still uses the larger 350mm steel rotors. Or he can try upgrading to 997tt 380mm brake system but then you have to run larger wheels which might not be ideal for the track.
Triple Black, do you still have the LN IMS? Can you take a pic? I wanna see if the markings on it is the same as DrMems which also failed. It would be interesting if you can take it apart and inspect it.
Sorry to hear about your car.
A turbo is a good idea.
If i where you and had the $$$$$ i would check out this on the classifieds......just over the border.
https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...turbo-x50.html
Looks really nice and has Ceramic brakes! + a lot of extras....winter tires - bike rack etc....
I believe any year 996tt would be a good car as long as it checks out. The only negative I have heard about the early ones is the no glove box and the bumper tets, but you can remove the tets. That wouldn't stop me from getting one. They're great cars and a lot of bang for the buck.
-Jason
After watching (on another thread here) an Accura NX clean a Turbo's clock and eat its lunch, in a 5 lap race, I am having serious doubts about their real strength. A normally aspirated S just barely held on for the win. A normal 911 faded first...or its brakes did. The only car the Porsche's beat soundly was the bottom of the heap Fairlady 350Z. The turbo never once even challenged for the lead and took along time getting around the normal C2.
