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YOUR RESEARCHWould you spray degreaser on a 996 engine and hose it off??
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Use electric pressure washer
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I use an electric pressure washer for most engine detailing, just don't get too close but enough have a tad more oomph than a regular hose...
Would you spray degreaser on a 996 engine and hose it off??
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Would you spray degreaser on a 996 engine and hose it off??
Use non-diluted simple green and a pressure washer
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I use non-diluted Simple Green and a pressure washer with a wide nozzle on my cars and it works quite well.
Would you spray degreaser on a 996 engine and hose it off??
Use oven cleaner
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I've used oven cleaner to clean REALLY caked on oil from engines before.
Would you spray degreaser on a 996 engine and hose it off??
Clean enough
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Would you spray degreaser on a 996 engine and hose it off??
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Oil based cleaners are ok. Purple power eats the aluminum. there's a horrible thread here about an owner who soaked his M96 in purple cleaner and it ate it.
I use an electric pressure washer for most engine detailing, just don't get too close but enough have a tad more oomph than a regular hose... you use less water to do the same job. To get around more intricate areas, a handheld steam cleaner does really well too.
I use non-diluted Simple Green and a pressure washer with a wide nozzle on my cars and it works quite well. Just be sure not to directly blast any sensors or electrical connections.
I use the cleaning product and then a detail brush to scrub by hand. Then rinse off with water hose as sometimes high water pressure can enter electrical terminals and other items. Also make sure the engine is cold and give time for the water to evaporate before starting if you can.
I second the Simple Green, however, on aluminum I was advised to use Simple Green Aviation formula. It is called "Simple Green Extreme"
It's pretty neat stuff it is clear but it turns purple when it comes into contact with oil.
I use foaming engine degreaser. Works top notch.
Awesome and Simple Green are also great options.
All these work even better if you have access to steam.
Alfredo's dry ice cleaning is the way to go in my opinion.
His engine looked clean enough to eat off of.
@HoustonCgrBkr
, his guy was local too.
The dry ice cleaning was part of the reason he got $52K on BaT for his red 996 C2.
100% agree on dry ice cleaning... I'm looking to schedule an appointment when I get back. That's serious work though and more expensive. Think they're just talking about general maintenance.
you know if I have a Carrera GT that�s worth at least 1.5 million dollars. Yes by all means spend $2 grand in dry ice cleaning. I�m not even doing that in the $60k turbo I just bought, to each his own.
Think it was around $1500 or so which includes transmission, suspension components and axles. You do it once and just maintain it for a long time, after the cleaning the parts are coated. Keep in mind I detail on the side, I regularly have people who aren't considered wealthy who pay about 300.00 for a simple polish, wax and full interior detail. My best friend got me some clients who wanted full paint correction and ceramic coatings on full size pick ups that ended up being around 1300 per vehicle. I wish I had the room for a dry ice machine, that piece of kit is pretty expensive but man it's worth it... pays for itself with about 8-10 cars.
Dry Ice machines are expensive. I've been thinking about it myself to add to my detailing but I also don't have a lift which makes doing under carriage work pretty much impossible.
Moto, with your experience, you may want to start a detailing thread. We could all gain from your knowledge and experience. Bet it would be a popular one. Especially if pictures are involved.
Man I�d love to take you up on that and that�s very humbling. Unfortunately I�m deployed for 8 months a year and have been for the last 13 years. I detail when people ask me, almost like a hobby now.
Yup and the wand is pretty long too. Even with PPE, being close to the stream isn�t good for you either.
From what I have seen, dry ice is the way to go-but-you will find the residue it produces is a real problem. It�s like soot from a house fire. You not only need a good suit and respirator system, but a booth with ventilation system. Everything you ablate with dry ice, the brake dust, road grime, oil, etc., will go everywhere.
You need to factor all of that into your cost, along with your lift.
Yes absolutely agree. I�ve seen it done before but in a bigger space, the person doing the work was wearing a respirator and elbow down rubber gloves. The shop itself was pretty well set up with a lift dedicated to Dry Ice work. Pretty sure the shop owner said the machine was about $15k? I don�t know the specifics. Unfortunately the shop closed due to covid, now I have to drive 3hrs away to get the work done.
I’ve dry iced 2 cars. Underneath, wheel wells, engine bay etc. then sprayed what he called industrial ceramic coating to cleaned parts. Worth every penny and my mechanics love me
I paid $1300 for dry ice and $600 for coating. Right around $2000 and it takes about 2
days per car. I’ve posted pics here on the forum if you want to see search my posts.
Pics maybe to show what you want to clean?
I honestly just use mild car soap for anything under the engine lid and it looks like new.
Underneath the engine, maybe something more is needed, but I'd start with mild there too.
I've used oven cleaner to clean REALLY caked on oil from engines before.
I did that so I could diagnose and fix oil leaks on engines that had been leaking for years.
It is about as toxic as you can get!
But it REALLY does the job.
I don't think I'd do that to any car of real value.(Definitely not my 996)
It may not be the best idea for wiring harnesses.
Most of the vehicles I work on at 175-300K mile cars that have not been well cared for.
But if an owner wanted me to diagnose an oil leak but their vehicle is filthy,
I'd suggest they use oven cleaner, but be careful of the fumes.
I will no longer work with toxic chemicals since my doctor told me that's likely how I got cancer.
You generally want to start with the least aggressive methods first so car soap or diluted all purpose cleaner are good. If its not terrible you can just pre treat, agitate with brushes and then hose off. If its dirtier I like following up with a pressure washer with a wider tip, really helps get the stuff out of tight spaces. I have heard that oven cleaner works but I haven't personally used it. I am sure you could use other cleaners but I don't know how they react with all the different parts. Generally cars are at least made to get some water on them.
I�ve found that the �citrus oil� (Zep Orange for example) type cleaners are much safer than the �Purple/SuperClean� types (Sodium hydroxide)� Never use sodium hydroxide at full strength on aluminum�
