Potassium and Sodium in the oil!!!

Here�s some background for the issue I have been trying to solve since 5/2022. This narrative gets a little long but I want to provide as much detail as I can. Engine is a F6I Stage II with around 36,000 on the engine. The oil used is Driven DT40, Cab/Tip car. I installed a UAOS in 5/2020. In 3/21 I ran Skip�s Engine Health manometer test and repeated it at 5/23, both with very good results. In May 2022 the UOA performed by Speediagnostics came back with high readings for Potassium and Sodium. I have attached a couple UOA reports showing the last �normal readings�, recorded in 4/2021, followed by the elevated readings a year later. The elevated readings have persisted over the past 6,000 miles. In 10/21 (the first oil change after the last normal reading) I ran some SeaFoam in the engine. 2 cans thru full tanks of gas and then 9 oz in the engine for less than 100 miles and then changed the oil. No UOA was performed at that time as I knew the results would be meaningless. So the next UOA was conducted with the next oil change seven months and 1,100 miles later in 5/22 revealing the high levels of Potassium and Sodium. SeaFoam does not contain Potassium or Sodium per guidance from the manufacturer. I run a bottle of Driven Injector Defender in the gas with every oil change. Neither DT40 nor ID contain potassium or sodium. I�m concerned with the high Potassium and Sodium levels and where it is coming from. High levels indicate coolant getting into the oil. I can�t think of anywhere else those would be coming from. If the SeaFoan had loosened some �Potassium and Sodium crud� it would have been removed through the subsequent oil changes and the levels would have declined over time. But not the case, levels remain consistent. If coolant was leaking into the oil somewhere, there should also be high readings of glycol and water, but those test negative. I have run several hydrocarbon tests on the coolant with negative results, no hydrocarbons getting into the coolant. Under the oil cap it looks fine, no �milkshake effect�. In observing the coolant level in the reservoir, I haven�t seen much if any change over time. The coolant reservoir was replaced in 2018 right after I acquired the car as a preventative measure and the coolant has been changed several times since then. No signs of cracks or leaks in the current tank or system. I keep the level consistently at the mid-point between MIN and MAX, using the reservoir seam as reference. This morning it is a little below that mark, tho. The absence of glycol and water in the oil would indicate a coolant leak into the cylinders or intake only, burning off the glycol and water during ignition, leaving only solids to pass the rings into the oil. So a �one-way leak� is my conclusion. A head gasket is the usual culprit I�ve been told. I reached out to LNE in March 2023 as they were beginning to pick up technical support for the F6I engine. Per Jud, �The head gaskets in these engines do not fail! The surrounding material is weaker than the gasket material and we never see them fail. With your Manometer reading and the potassium levels, I would look into changing the Air Oil Separator. Coolant runs through the AOS and it could be leaking internally. We recommend changing this and your water pump every 3 to 5 years as preventative maintenance.� I installed a new AOS with the UAOS 3 years ago. Also replaced the water pump in Sept 23 concurrent with an oil change (no UOA done), prior to the last UOA in May of this year. I'll be changing the oil this month and having another UOA. I don�t suspect a leak thru the AOS due to absence of glycol and water. Both my Indy and other technical folks tell me to stop worrying and just drive the car. I have to admit I�m a bit paranoid with my car�s health and I don�t like unexplained mysteries. So what am I missing? Where are the Potassium and Sodium coming from? Where should I look next? Due for new spark plugs in about 6 mos, so I�ll have them inspected for signs of problems, Removing the heads to check the head gaskets is quite expensive. But so are spun bearings.

I kind of agree with your indy, but my guess is that it could be a hairline crack in your oil cooler (located under bank 2 intake manifold). I believe the reason you are seeing a one way leak is because coolant runs at a higher pressure than oil, hence the reason it stays in the oil and why you're not seeing oil in the coolant. When it cools, the crack seals itself.

Quotes source post: 19695969

This is wrong. I have data logged both. And your cooling system has a cap at like 15PSI, you'd have to have some pretty bad oil pressure.

Your UAOS kit is 4 years old and this problem has been going on for 2 years...BUT the "coolant by-pass kit" was added to all UAOS kits after 4/11/2021 ...I found out that when moving the flow control diaphragm to close to the throttle body it not only was in a much much better place to be easily accessed, but is a warmer place and that I could do away with the coolant heater for the AOS and eliminate this potential ... The AOS coolant by-pass has been included in all UAOS System kits since 4/11/2021 If your early UAOS System doesnt have the coolant by-pass kit installed, I suggest you do this it is very easy and simple with just installing 2 caps and clamps...It is also available separate for $25 and may solve the issue.. Yes the oil pressure is 4X times greater than coolant pressure so the oil cooler would not be a high suspect...even though the coolant pressure will sustain for an hour after the engine is shut off and no oil pressure, when the engine is running the oil pressure is 4x the coolant pressure is more likely to put oil into the coolant......But since this is a small amount it cannot be totally overlooked.. If this is a 1999 2000 or 2001 3.4 engine there is a possibility of a small crack in the heads that could allow a little coolant into the oil.. Your UOA's show very low metal wear so damage is being done, and a fishing expedition at this point would be as costly as any other full rebuild, and possibly not even uncover the root cause so would not be advised at this time ... I would install the AOS coolant by-pass kit if not already installed first then drive 1000 miles and retest, If not OK then replace the oil cooler and drive 1000 miles and retest, if not OK after that then OH S**T big decision time...

The engine started life as a 2004 3.6L, but Jake waived his magic wand (or wrench?) and it became a 3.8L. Nickies, IMS Solution, etc.So I haven't been that worried about the problem being inside the engine, other than maybe the head gasket, But I;m not concerned right now about that. I did think about the oil cooler as a possible place where oil and coolant could mix via failed gasket or crack in the cooler but my indy reminded me the oil pressure is much higher than coolant pressure so i should at least be seeing oil in the coolant, which I'm not. So I've been thinking about other "external", read "less expensive" places where this could occur. That's why i replaced the water pump a little early, just to see if that somehow was a cause. No luck. But I have a new water pump. My UAOS was purchased in Feb 2020, one of Skip's first "early production" models.The only update I made at the time at that time was the URO aluminum AOS/Heater hose connector and clamp. In Oct 2020 i upgraded to the aluminum UAOS accumulator. I have not added the "coolant by-pass kit", guess i haven't been following the UAOS treads that closely. Is that different than the URO kit? If so, now would be the right time, since I can wait on the oil change and do this at the same time. Skip, where do i find that kit to order? Skip, you wrote "Your UOA's show very low metal wear so damage is being done," Did you mean to write "so no damage is being done"? Please say yes. Let's not go past the "ok, that coolant by-pass kit fixed the problem" stage .Ok, I could handle the oil cooler replacement when i do the spark plugs next spring.

Quotes source post: 19696125

You are correct. I had them backwards...which is why I first saw oil in my coolant on a cracked head. Either way I still think OP could be dealing with a cracked oil cooler - does not change much. Edit sorry just read OP's reply there - actually his indy is right. he would be seeing oil in his coolant. Water pump? Only other thing I can think of is PT3's uaos. Not saying design is faulty, just saying it's obviously coming from somewhere. Lots of variables here op with uaos and rebuild from Jake.

Yes I meant NO damage is being done !! Just PM me your address and E-mail and I will send you the coolant by-pass kit Hopefully that will cure the issue ..

Quotes source posts: 19696344, 19152017, 18738047

Did it make it past 400K miles ? Or how about 250K

Thanks,Skip,.PM sent. I'll know in a few months if this was it. I've been agonizing over this and it could be a simple fix! I

Quotes source post: 19696606

The problem lies in ownership. There is so much BS to sift thru on these boards (you're contributing to it). They are well-designed from factory and I still stand by them capable of going well past 200k. Because I want other owners to avoid what I've gone thru (and because I think you're a clown), I'll list what I think contributed to it (in no particular order of significance): - faulty aos and me continuing to drive on faulty aos (the cap isn't always difficult to take off, at least in early stages, but there is a vacuum leak at idle), which eventually sucked oil into chambers hydrolocking car with oil. Speculation on something going array there. - car having low coolant upon purchase and exp tank cap being so tight I had to use a set of vice grips to get it off. No telling how long the car was on coolant for. That said this was at 96k and it still made it to 146k. - water pump blade theory... not sure I buy into it, but I guess it could've happened and overheated it without knowing. When I removed the water pump it was missing a blade, but I originally thought I lost it during removal. - lastly, I changed the spark plug tubes soon before it developed a crack near spark plug hole #3. Pure speculation. Nothing array with removal or install either. Maybe the countless heat cycles finally got to it. I honestly don't know what or why it happened, but I can tell you that this board is usually full of sh*t. Oh and your aos can be changed in 2 hours (maybe you can sift thru the rest of my post history and waste more hours of your life finding out how, because it's in there).

Quotes source post: 19697002

Yes goodluck op. I also have a Q about your uaos that I'll pm.