Coilovers... Are You Doing it Wrong?

When I was researching coilover options for the 996, one statement was repeated by several reviewers... "I set them on full soft." The reasoning usually given is that they felt too stiff and jarring at anything higher than the softest setting. When I installed my FEAL coilovers, I started out at about 10 clicks firm out of a possible 30. The ride was not great. The rear, especially, bumped and crashed on road imperfections. I'd get a loud thud on the bigger stuff. In order to fix that, I set them to full soft. The ride got better, but it was still a lot less smooth than I was expecting, especially in low speed parking lot situations where there may be a little cracks in the road. I was not happy with how much bumping and noise I got while trying to find a parking spot. The handling was not great either, and it felt unsettled. While out doing a grocery run, out of frustration, I pulled into a parking spot and adjusted my coilovers to 20 clicks firm all around just to see what would happen. To my amazement, the suspension transformed. It now felt smooth. The cracks I had just driven over that caused crashing and bumping were soaked up by the suspension with ease. Everything got tighter. Night and day difference in handling curves as well. Just to see what would happen, I turned it up to 25 clicks firm all around and the ride got even smoother... maybe too smooth, so I backed off to 25 front 23 rear. The car was very underdamped at full soft, and not good at 10 clicks. Obviously, each coilover has different specs, but what I realized is that full soft on Feal coilovers is way to underdamped to get good ride quality and handling. Common sense without factoring in science tells you to soften the dampers to get better ride quality. The reality is you may be selling yourself and your car short by doing so. If you have coilovers and are riding on full soft, maybe try out what happens when you go higher on the damping settings. You may be surprised at what you find out.

I have KW V3s on my other car which have rebound and compression adjustment and had to readjust at least 4-5x before I got it to where I liked it on the street which was a real pita. It was fun to play around with the settings at the limit of driving ie. track days. For street I found it annoying as I was constantly in search of ride comfort - mind you I live in pothole heaven.

Suspension is the next rabbit hole I'm about to jump down with my car. Thanks for sharing your learning experiences. I think I would have followed the same thought process as you.

For the KW V3, the instructions specifically state that they shouldn’t be used at full hard or full soft. Might be the same for other brands as well.

Setting to firm you just need to be mindful of your tires on the street. As the dampening and firmness increase, so does the stress on your tires. You don't want to set the coilovers so firm you overwhelm your tires. Mike

On my daily driver, I'm currently runing my Feals at 23 clicks(from full soft) on the front and 25 clicks(from full soft) on the rear. I really like how it feels.(pun intended) But I'm always changing it. I always measure from full soft, even though at the moment it would be quicker to measure from full hard. ...that's what she said...(sorry)

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Well, the point is that is's not set too firmly or too softly at my higher stiffness settings. Setting it firmer is the right balance of spring rate vs damping on the Feals, and perhaps some other coilovers. If I were to set it soft, the car would be underdamped, have poor handling, poor ride quality, and be generally unpleasant. As it is now, it feels very similar to my 997 when I pressed the sport button. It feels better than that, actually. Yeah, that's very close to where I am set.

FYI, I used a hole saw to create easy access to adjust the fronts. I also added a 3� square piece of vinyl so I have a handy place to write my current setup with a china marker. The china marker is erasable. Usually I mark through it and write the new setting next to it...and then later I erase it and rewrite it.(OCD...and yes the 5 bothers me)

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I'm missing all my pop rivets except for one so does that count as easy access?

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Yes it does.

So, more (+) means less? I have not had a chance (to lazy ) to play with mine, just set them up in the middle to try and get it to as close to stock and go from there. The car felt better than what I had so I just left it alone. I do feel like it has settled (not as stiff) slightly in 300 miles... Maybe I'll crank them up a bit before my drive to work. I must say, I'm Very happy with the product so far.

I was happy with them at first when I had them set to 15 front and back. Since I changed them to 23 & 25, I’m REALLY happy!

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Not sure what you are asking by "...more (+) means less?" If you are asking if going stiffer increases the ride quality and handling on Feal 441 coilovers for the 996, then yes. There is a big difference when you go up in the 20-25 stiffness range from 15. I wasn't impressed until I cranked it up. I am on 25 clicks front / 23 click rear now. TexSquirrel is running 23 front / 23 rear and is very happy as well.

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I first thought + meant stiffer but clearly I assumed wrong.

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I wasn�t confused about the �+� part of your statement. I was confused what you meant with the �less� part.

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Less meaning soft or more comfortable (less harsh) over bumps. I just gave it + 5 yesterday before heading to work and it definitely felt softer over the small bumps (course pavement) and I was thinking the complete opposite would happen. Clearly I misunderstood what more or less dampening would do until you posted this. Thanks!

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Great! I'm glad to hear that. That's exactly why I posted this. I knew there had to be others out there running too soft on the dampers and not getting what they want out of the suspension.

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...actually I�m running 23 front and 25 rear.

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Oops, that was a typo. Good catch!

Curious, since I need a suspension refresh, which options you folks ordered from the Feal menu?

There weren't many options when I bought mine.(April 2018) They were just called 441 back then. But what I have would now be: 441+ (since it has the Sprint springs) Spec Type: Default Radial Bearing upgrade: No, wasn't an option Adjustable bump stops: No, wasn't an option Shock covers: No, I opted to not get them Extended dampening adjusters: Yes, I think. It wasn't an option, but I think that's what I have. My suggestion would be to go 441, and not add the options. That's what I would do if I were ordering a set for a second 996. I doubt the Swift springs are $264 better than the Feal ones. They're great as-is and you'll be very happy with them. I just don't think you'll miss the options IMHO.

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I have the normal Feal 441 without Swift springs. I got the radial bearing upgrade. If you have a C2 there is no need for extenders. Changing the rear damper settings is as easy as pulling back the carpet and it only takes one second to get access to the adjustment *****.

The radial bearing upgrade might be worth the extra $100.

Thanks guys, that's just the info I was looking for. TexSquirrel, maybe you need to get a 2nd 996, you know, just to test

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I sure do. ...and if/when I get one and if it has the stock suspension, I'd install new control arms and Feal 441 coil overs as soon as I could.(after taking care of IMSS/RMS/UAOS)

Played a little more and the +23F +25R feels better.

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I tried 23 front / 25 rear, but I didn't really like it as much. I went back to 25 front / 23 rear. I think at 25 front, that gives the front the right stiffness and tightness.

Since few of you guys are running Feal coilovers.. Had few questions for Feal users and want to know your overall experience, this would be going on my 997 C4. 1) would you go with Swift spring upgrade? 2)Radial bearing upgrade? 3) Overall quality? 4) Would you buy it again or would you look for something else?

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1) No (I have them, but I’ll probably go with the Feals instead next time) 2) Yes (cheap option if I recall correctly) 3) Very VERY good 4) Yes, I’d definitely buy them again I purchased mine in early 2018. I installed mine 9/2018 after I’d finished cancer treatments. I’ve put 18K miles on them.

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1) Maybe out of curiosity to see what the difference is, but I have no complaints about the regular springs I have. 2) I have it, but don't know if it really makes a difference since I haven't tried the regular ones. 3) Excellent. 4) Would buy again. I do want to drive a car with Ohlins for comparison's sake. The Feals changed my whole attitude about driving the car. I find excuses to drive it now. Turned a good car into a great car.

Thanks guys! Much appreciated ! I am in the same boat; do I go with Ohlins (had them prior on another car) or save myself $1500 and go with Feal? I might just splurge for Swift springs...

If you�re going to race your 996, or make it into a dedicated track car, then You might want to consider �hlins. If it is going to be a fun weekend second car or a daily driver, occasional track car, I would definitely go Feal. That $1500 saved could go into something else. Tires/other suspension parts/exhaust/seats/wheels

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I have to agree. I'd go with FEAL all over again for my street car.

I got the FEAL. I have also been hunting to find the perfect setting for mine. It has been jarring for me, and I have been going softer and softer. It feels like my H&R springs were incredibly more comfortable than these. I had no problems driving long distance in my car, and handling was amazing. It was squirmy at higher speeds though. With the Feal, it is much better at higher speeds. I dialed them up for a spirited run a couple weeks ago and loved it. I wonder if it takes some time to get settled? It seems like most people here love 23/25 combo range. I am going to experiment with that to see how I like it. I have a Cab, with a semi-permanent hard top installed. I have a hard time getting to my rear adjustment. I wonder if I can make some sort of remote turning apparatus, to turn my ***** from a distance, without having to remove my hard top...

They do make remote adjuster, I wonder if that works better for the Cabriolet ?

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i just emailed FEAL support to ask about a remote adapter, or any ideas they have for making one. EDIT: I guess I should have searched first. There is one available for $45. https://fealsuspensionstore.com/exte...ers-version-b/

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What settings are your dampers currently on? I made this thread to make sure people go higher, not lower to improve ride quality, especially with FEALs. If you go softer, it will get worse. I am currently at 26F 28R. I don�t have any desire to change it. At anything less than 20 F or R, I did not really like the ride quality. Now, it�s one of the most fun cars I�ve ever driven.

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curb weight and tires/size are going to play a big factor in what dampener settings are best from car to car in most cases.

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I ordered a set for my car and the kid car, both Cab's this morning. let you know when I get them. those of you thinking about the Feal coil overs, send E mail to Mike in Sales and you can get free shipping.

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...and tire pressure.

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1. No. Current setup is very good. 2. No. 3. First set of coilovers. I come from M3's most recently and older P-Cars. I replaced an entire suspension (ROW) that was worn, so my anecdotes could be because the previous suspension was shot. Best spend on suspension in my life and the quality seems to be on par or better than most costing 2x-3x the price based on reviews. 4. Without question. For $1300, this is the best bang for buck in 996 suspension...

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He has a 996, with the exact same coil overs I have so I don�t see how curb weight is relevant. I can�t imagine that his tire setup is going to be a distinguishing factor unless they are at the wrong pressure or are worn.

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A little bit of an old thread but given I just installed the Feal suspension on my 996, I want to summarize and ask if I understand this correctly: - At 10 setting, the car rides incredibly harsh (I have made this experience too). Every bump sends a shockwave through the entire body of the car. - At 5 setting (where I�m at now), the car actually rides quite plush, but certainly doesn�t handle as nicely anymore - Going to a setting above 20, will actually improve the harshness over the 10 setting, as well as handling over the 5 setting. clearly I too am misunderstanding the **** setting between soft and stiff.

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My car did not have a plush ride ride at 5. It was stiff and didn�t handle. At 10 it was still harsh over even pebbles and minor road imperfections. 15 was not great either. It started feeling better at 20 and over. Just turn it up and see for yourself! It takes 5 minutes to adjust all four corners.

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i hate to be that idiot, but, the shop who installed the coilovers for me has not had the chance yet to tell me how to adjust them. where would I find the **** for the four corners on the 996?

These two links should help you, with your kit came the spanner wrench and dampening tool for adjustments. http://fealsuspension.com/wp-content...et-REVISED.pdf http://fealsuspension.com/wp-content...de-REVISED.pdf

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i checked the links and it doesn�t give detailed advise on where the ***** for the rears are located after they have been installed. If you know, could you give me a hint or location? I know where to find the fronts, just unsure on rear.

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You won't see anything visual, the tool will go the the hollow stem at the top of the coil overs for adjustments, the **** is built into the tool. depending being a coupe or cabriolet, on a cab the rear cover must be removed to gain access, haven't done coupe yet so can't help there.

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you will need to remove the rear shelf carpet (and the subwoofer if you have one).

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My car is a C2 coupe without factory subwoofer, so it�s as simple as putting the rear seats in the down position and lifting up the rear shelf carpet. No tools required.

I finally got around to adjusting the FEAL coilovers. I just want to thank @barbancourt and the people contributing to the information in this thread. This has been a great learning and extremely helpful insight. That being said, .... WOW!! What a f****** difference! I was originally set at 10, and thought the road was terribly harsh that would send shockwaves through the entire body. So I went to 5 all-around and the car road softer, but, was also bouncing around a lot. I have now started off with setting the coilovers to 20F and 23R and I can only agree with previous posters, holy sh**, this has been a transformation . The ride comfort is much better than before AND the vehicle handles so much better. I have no idea how this is possible given the language and symbolism on the coilovers of "Stiffness + / -", because going "+" does not "increase" stiffness of the ride, therefore making it harsher. So here is my purely speculative hypothesis, and I'm hoping a suspension expert can chime in: I think the "stiffness +/-" setting is a reference to the springs in the coilovers, not the damping or shock body. And even then it's still counterintuitive, because stiffer springs should yield harsher ride? No. I think stiffer springs in a coilover increases the "travel and energy" the spring has to "expand" and therefore moving along imperfections in the road more smoothly. Just a thought. Either way, FEAL coilovers are amazing and car rides greater than ever.

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@Tr4ckD4ys thats great to hear, and the exact reason I made this thread! I know a lot of people assume that to make the ride more compliant the obvious answer is to lower the stiffness settings. What happens when you do that is that the car becomes under-damped and everything suffers.

I find it somewhat confusing that FEAL can�t write instructions on how to adjust their coil overs???

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They do provide instructions on how to adjust the coilovers. They even have videos on YouTube. What they don�t do is tell you what exactly you should set the dampers at, which I think is probably consistent with most coilover manufacturers/sellers. Different customers may have different needs.

^^^ Then why all the confusion? ^^^ seems weird�🤔

I think the instructions are somewhat okay, although they could be written in more detail and with more picture material. The YouTube videos on the 996 specific coilovers from FEAL aren't super easy to find (as well as the different types, since adjustments change with the type you got). The main point however is that FEAL does not give enough detail and explanation around how the different settings affect the car behavior and there is a huge gap of giving people more knowledge here, as every coilover reacts slightly differently. For the FEAL, it isn't clear at all that "less stiff" means "more harsh on road" or "more stiff" means "less harsh at high speeds, still harsh at low speeds". Personally, I find particularly my rear coilovers to be particularly hard to dial in. While the fronts at 20 are marvelous both in city and highway driving, the rear still bangs pretty hard in city driving when set at 23. Going to 15 made it softer in the city but harsher at higher speeds. Going stiffer did the inverse... very tricky. I wish I knew more about what experts are looking for when they dial these things in for example for track use. How do you determine based on the road condition how much to turn the dial? There must be some science behind this.

I think the trick is finding the correct ratio between front and rear dampers. I think this is different for our cars because of how the weight is distributed. I'm running Ohlins on my car but what I did was a lot of trial and error. I have a crappy bumpy city road that I used for testing as well as a nice backroad that has a good amount of bumps and undulations. I drove them a number of times and made adjustments accordingly. I have my dampers set on the softer side and I'm quite happy with the set up for daily use. This is all highly subjective but I do agree that there should be some ranges provided. Ohlins kind of does this in their instructions but it still requires some trial and error IMHO. Another thing to keep in mind is that coilovers will most likely always be on the stiffer side - no matter what. It's all about having proper expectations.

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The confusion is that people have misconceptions about coilover settings, in general. This is not specific to Feal. I have seen people make the same mistake with other coilovers.

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I don�t think this is a fair critique. It is a combination of spring rate, preload, damping, suspension travel, and probably a few other things that affect the ride quality and handling. They can�t just make a blanket statement on how everyone�s car will behave. Not everyone uses the same springs or spring rates. Not everyone sets up their preload the same. I think if there�s any issue, it�s that people have preconceived notions about what is correct. They assume that setting it at 0 will be the softest and most compliant ride, but that goes counter to physics.

I'm not sure if it relates but I recently put Koni Yellows on my car, which are adjustable. I left them at the softest setting, then later went to "+" (1/2 turn). The wheel control AND ride quality actually got better, just like the experience of the Feal folks here. I recently went up another half turn and, sure enough, ride quality is at least as good and there is less unwanted motion when matters get curvy. In short I'm experiencing a similar ah-ha moment. In fact this thread is what motivated me to crank them up.

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Great to hear that this thread helped you @wdb . This definitely isn�t specific to one brand or setup type!

In some ways, suspension isn't much different than a rebuilt or upgraded engine. You need to fine tune things to get the best performance

Absolutely agree the system needs to be tuned together. Expect several adjustments to find what you like. I started my Ohlin's at 20/20 and worked down to 15/10. Then I changed out the wheels from 17 to 18". They are heavier and wider and made the car feel slow. 2 more adjustments to find 12/8. For now...

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so your ratio is to have the rear set to softer than the front?

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Nope. Sorry, I left out F/R. I always report the front setting first. The fronts are softer. A setting of 20 is the softest. A point for all street folks to consider is optimal handling vs. personal preference. My settings may be very different from others due to both the car and my personal preference. I have no idea whether this setting will create the optimal handling, although it feels sharper and more responsive than the other settings, I have no way to prove that it is.

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that�s why I would love for someone with track and/or suspension engineering experience to chime in. How is one supposed to think about handling of the car in context of the stiffness of the coilovers settings. Would a suspension engineer for track use suggest �the stiffer the better� or something else? How does stiffness typically affect handling in straights vs curves, steering feel et cetera. There are so so many variables and I literally know nothing about it. All I know is that �mechanics adjust their suspension to the track they are racing�. So what does that **really** mean?

One thing I've learned from people much smarter than me is that stiffer is not always faster. There is also a reason why you drop your tire air pressure on the track. It may give you a feeling of being faster but in practice it's not. Suspension is made to suspend the car and maintain a constant contact patch between as much of the tire as possible and the ground. If your set up is too stiff, the tire may skip over sharper bumps and etc and actually upset the car. You want your damper to react quickly to the changes on the road and damped in a way that it moves the wheel up and down accordingly without excessive energy transferred to the car body itself. I think that's where Ohlins really shine and why I chose them - the DFV is really something. Watching some track cars being set up, they are quite low to have the lowest center of gravity but the dampers are set quite soft to keep the car composed. It's all quite fascinating and requires testing and trial and error to dial in. Things like car weight and even the weight of the driver are taken into account as it all adds up. Just imagine a lightweight race car with a 150lb driver vs a 220lb driver. Car will definitely need different set ups.

The 996 by factory design has understeer to eliminate the "widow maker" characteristics of past 911s. You wouldnt know this if you just drive your car on the street other than your rear end doesn't come around very easily. But you will know this if you track your car at a more advanced level and speed. So when I added coilovers (Bilstein PSS9) back in 2007, i went to full stiff on the rears and a notch above half stiff on the fronts. I also added tarret sway bars and went with full stiff on the rears and the least stiff on the front sway bars. I also had the car set up to GT3 specs and added a Guard LSD. It took a few track days with my indy at the track to help me dial in the settings. I haven't changed it since. The car has incredible turn-in and rotation without the fear of the back end coming around, not to mention it sticks on the exit. Never added any aero because I didn't want to mess with other variables with handling. Yep, the car is stiff on the street, but it drives like a go cart in town and on the highway and the stiffness doesn't bother me because I don't want to mess with the settings. Next year I will replace the Bilsteins with either the Bilstein Clubsports or a set of JRZs. But I dread the time it will take to set-up the JRZs on the track, but i do like the additional adjustability. I may even decide to just put on a set of PSS10s to keep it simple since I already know the characteristics of the coilovers. The only difference is that the PSS10s have 10 clicks of adjustability versus 9. Here is the point, there is a big difference between street driving, track driving and combo street and track with the set-up, and how it will feel. Most folks on this thread wont get very serious about tracking their car beyond an occasional event, which means your requirements for coilovers and suspension parts will be minimal. Those that are big-time DE enthusiasts will want and need more. But the more you want and need to enhance handling on the track, the harsher the ride will be on the street. It's a trade-off.

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Very curious what your ride with fully built and spec'd track suspension feels like compared to my ride with (new) stock suspension components + coilovers!

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You are welcome to drive mine. Maybe we can meet-up at PCA event this summer. I will be at the oktoberfest DE at blackhawk end of September. I hope to go to road America over labor day weekend for the event. If an oil cooling solution becomes available before the event, I'll track it, if not, I'll just go up for the day to check lap times and cheer on the guys. Pm anytime you want. Here it is sitting at Midwest Eurosport. Stealth in look by design. But completely set up for the track.

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I really want to get a ride in a car with Ohlins. It seems I might get a chance when the homie @TheChunkNorris gets back!

If you were local I'd happily offer mine! I actually found a local 996 guy with a set on his car that has been well used and had an opportunity to drive it before buying.

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To be fair my car will also have GT3 sways and most of the Tarett catalogue in regards to the other supporting parts� also have the cage. Not that it matters but the GT3 Ohlins might be different than the R&R or the Dedicated series.

The easy solution is to get Chunk back in the country as quick as we can to go on the Tail of the Dragon trip and we can all test out each other's set-ups. It would make for a good review.

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If you come home and your car looks like this it wasn�t me.

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Ha! Good thing she sleeps inside. Man I�m hoping we can all get together the first weekend of Dec and hopefully I�ll have them in by then. There�s a chance they might go back to Ohlins to get checked and in that case you all will only get to see the car with the lowly M030 set up.

Fyi the valving on the c2/c4 versions of ohlins is the same but spring rates r higher on the gt3 set up. I dial mine back to 10 from soft for street driving and 5 from tight for the track. I dont find the street driving setting bad but its not nearly as smooth as stock. I do have a ton of other track mods that make my car more trackish.

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Thank you for that info and I'll probably call you when I get to that point... I'll actually be home. Side note... 3DM didn't respond yet.

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anytime. Be patient with 3dm, im sure they r busy but it will be worth it.

I spent about a month trying to dial in the PSS10s on my C4S for spirited street driving in Wisconsin. My commute was a pretty nice test route. Combo city and highway. Some smooth spots, couple rough patches on the highway, and a few sets of railroad tracks to cross. Couple interesting findings The car is most compliant over railroad tracks with stiffer settings Softer settings are fine until you hit a big bump, then everything bounces around Having the fronts and rears set to the same stiffness causes the car to feel a bit unsettled at times My favorite setup so far has been F7/R6 (10 is the stiffest on PSS10s). But my passenger finds that a bit harsh, so I've been driving around with F5/R6 for the past month with no complaints. ( This thread on the 993 forum was someone else going through a similar process)

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based on the 911 design with the engine and its weight in the rear, shouldn�t one always have the rear set to stiffer than the front, to accommodate the additional energy from the weight?

Springs support weight, NOT dampers, dampers control springs.

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thank you for clarifying!

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Sound thought but when the manufacturer of the adjustable dampers has that taken into account when designing them then the same number of clicks might be right to have the damping rates balanced (which doesn't mean identical, think 'relative damping ratio') front to rear. Actually I would expect that so that front to rear damping is balanced when having the adjusters on all 4 set from fully open to fully closed or at anything in between. Should that not be the case you effectively loose a setting as 1 at the one end would require 2 at the other thereby losing the ability do use 1 at that end...

Remember that stiff and soft on a damper is really describing what force the damper is going to project on the spring to alter what it's normal behavior would be. A high quality damper can demonstrate a better ability to control that spring, and as a result, can allow a higher spring rate without, what one may feel as an increased harshness. Thinking that going soft on the compression adjustment may sound like a good idea to make the ride feel better, until you think of what that means for the interaction between the damper and the spring. It means the damper is going to let the spring do more work, intervening less, therefore you are in a sense being less reliant on the damper. So, with the stiffer spring rates you see in general on coilovers, you are going to feel more of its impact than you would with a firmed up damper. Of course, then you go to the other side of the spectrum and go max stiff on the damper, now depending on the valving, you may have the damper overpowering the spring and not allowing it to do its job. If you get adjustable coil overs, adjust them, find a loop that you want the car to feel a certain way and drive it sweeping the adjustment around and see what feels good for you. Try to remove the pre conceived notions of what soft and stiff will do and just run 'em and see.

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i think this applies to a stockish suspension. From porsche the car is limited by the balance between comfort and performace. When the car moves to performance the shocks, springs, links, motor mounts, sways and tires (grip and size) all start to equal out the dynamic weight differences. This is what i am seeing with my car. I tried loosening the front sway and the car felt like $hit and next trip to njmp ill be tightening the front to full stiff.

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That�s the key right there.

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Alot of variables to the equation. My 996.2 set-up did not have any aero... But it did have Bilstein PSS9s, Tarret sway bars, was set to GT3 specs for height & camber, etc, with a guard LSD and Brembo big brake kit, carrera 2 wheels (18�8,18�10) running Sport Cup 1s and Hoosiers at the proper air levels accounting for typically 6-8 lbs of inflation increase from cold depending on track temps... We ended up settling on full stiff on rear settings for the coilovers and sway bar, as well as one notch stiffer than middle on front coilovers and softest on front sway bars. The combination ended up feeling near perfect on the track for my car. We got to this combination due to the PSS9s and Tarret sway bars being the rage at the time for the 996 and everybody and their mother was running them. So we all had a starting point by comparing notes. But the softest setting on the front sway bars was common due to not having any front end aero and therefor finding a way to compensate for understeer which was my biggest complaint as I carried more speed into, thru and exiting turns. We basically settled on the softest front sway bar setting and one click stiffer above middle on the front coilovers. Because my indy was at the track at the time, it was pretty easy to dial it in but it took two track days and therefore time to get it. I never set up JRZs, Motons, Ohlins, Feals, etc; nor have I added any aero or larger tires to the equation. All of which would completely change the set-up. Bottom line is that it all started with an experienced indy that knew what they were doing. All I had to do was drive and provide feedback. But remember this, if you are looking for a track set-up, do not bastardize the set-up process with worrying about how it will feel on the street. That's why you go with an adjustable set-up. All you will need to do is figure out what you then want for your street set-up and adjust it after the track day. In reality, it got to the point that I didn't care about a street set-up and just didn't drink coffee while driving my 996 around town.

Use the force Luke!!! ride quality and speed are a parallel parameter like others have said many variables effect ride/track setups my take is set to the middle and DRIVE a lot

I've been thinking about this some more, and after a long drive today, it seems that what I dislike most about the b4 stock setup on my C2 is the harshness of the ride. The damping abilities of the art least 22yr old design bilsteins are just not up to snuff. Has anyone experience with a other dampers and the stock springs? Maybe koni? To get modern ride quality maybe coilovers aren't necessary? Or maybe they are, if no one makes decent struts for stock springs....

Quotes source post: 18266060

Maybe. But the beauty of coilovers is their adjustability. And in the case of Feals, they are very affordable and easily adjustable. Regardless of what you do to the suspension, it will cost you money. Might as well give yourself the most flexibility to set it up for the street, for the track, lower it if you want or not. That's the benefit of coilovers. Pure adjustability.

Quotes source post: 18266060

Koni Active shocks are pretty popular. They were unavailable when I was shopping so I have Koni Yellows. I have RoW M030 springs too but I think the Konis would work with other springs.

Does anyone on here have experience with the Feals on a 987?