supercharger

Has anybody supercharged a 996. I have a 99 3.4 and am considering this. I'm looking for advice and suggestions.

Yes - do a search and you will have lots of info.

Yes, just did an 02 996 (3.6L) - pretty good.

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Why are you considering SC? -td

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IMO there is only one reason to go fasterrrrrrrrrr

I track the car and would like more power. Michael what kit did you use and how long did it take do do. (hours ??)

I got the EVO Motorsports supercharger. It took about 20 hours to install, -- there's a lot to it. It's got a new radiator, intercooler, pumping system, and the system itself, bolted onto the engine. It's about $1800-2000 labor typically. It's faster, though I haven't dynoed it yet.

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But where you go faster is relevant. IMO, simply adding a SC to get from 0-speed limit faster is a huge waste. And going way past the speed limit just because you have a SC is just plain stooopid. There has to a reason to go faster. I think spending 20K on other upgrades would make the car track better, without the need for more HP. 300 is enough to get around any DE track fast. It appears that by track you mean DE. Lots of people track their cars this way (including me), and some common words of "wisdom" are: you don't need force induction to go faster. Seat time, education, upgraded / adjustable suspension, better tires, roll cage, seat, etc can be great mods rather than simple grunt in the straights. If you are going to W2W, you should keep away from a SC as you will bump a class and compete with the guys that have loads of money to make their cars go fffaaaasssssttttt. One other consideration, adding a SC will most likely void any warranty you have (if you have any left). If you've exhausted your upgrade options, and are indeed leaning towards forced induction (SC or TC), there are numerous threads on this. I'm sure a search will turn them up. Lastly, Ruf offers a pretty respected SC kit. Check them out. Cheers, -td <- my $0.02

I do have other upgrades already. Suspension, R-compund tires, harnes bar, gt3 seats etc... I am an instuctor in my region and I only want more power to try and play around a little more with all the frickin gt3s.

I'd rather be blown than injected, but that's just me.

I have a SC 3.4 and its def faster than a 3.8 with an x51. The evo is great for tracking since it is designed for high RPM for boost wich matches the character of the engine. With all that is mentioned about suspension mods, seat and seat time etc...it is agreat track car. It makes it so much more fun passing stockers.

IMHO...buy a GT3 if you want to compete with them, then it is down to your driving skills

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I have a supercharger (as mentioned0, and everything in this message I think is right. It's not the biggest contributor to speed around the track, it will void your warranty (mine's out), it is expensive (12k), and there are other, better mods. All that is true, but it's still a kick in the pants and a nice stealthy upgrade for DE. You should have seen the face of the fellow with the GT3RS between runs at Watkins Glen when he came up to me and said, "WTF!" b/c he couldn't shake me. Mike

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Where is 1999Porsche911 and Karlooz?

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I've been looking for myself all day too. Let me know if you see me.

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Did Dell put you up to that? Sounds just like something he would say lol -td

+1 on track time/experience vs. HP!! When I 1st started DE's, I thought it was all about HP. Now that I have a 911 race car (964, 279 RWHP @ 2700#'s), I think differently. I had a World Challenge friend of mine drive my car at Rd. Atlanta and he was at a 1:36 to my 1:40, lap time in my car. Now, I'm now down to a 1:37. I figure until I can at least run as fast as he did, I don't need to work on anything but me and my skill level.

Get ahold of Jason at StuartFirm....he's got a 99 that he supercharged and has been racing for some time. He's very knowledgeable when it comes to supercharging the 99 996 3.4L engine.

Basically I agree that 300hp are enough for a good experience at the track and I came to a point that I get faster if I make less mistakes in the turns rather than pushing the car (and brakes) to the limits on the straights. However, there's one aspect of more power that I've to agree with the OP which is the relation of our cars compared to the power of other cars on the track. Whenever I meet e.g. a 450hp EVO on the track I'm bored behind him around the turns but on the straights he won't let me pass and pulls away very easily. This is kind of frustrating and just shows that a 996 with 300hp is not up to date anymore in terms of it's power/capability ratio compared to other "track cars".

I've had my EVOMS S/C for 2yrs plus, and love it on the track. (it's kind of a waste for around town) You can keep up with many GT3's, and pass the ones with lousy drivers. A hot driver in a late model GT3 will still beat me, but that may be a combination of my driving skills and the fact that I have a 3.4l engine. (not to mention stock 17" wheels and no sway bar changes, or the extra 165 lbs from being a cab!) Hey 1999Porsche911: I sent you a PM a while back. PM me back if you will. Thanks. =Carlos=

you may want to check out Turbo performance center in Jessup Maryland. Web site is www.turboperformance.com . from my understanding their doing some wonderful things over there. too much for my blood, but you know what they say... "if you've got to ask.... you probably can't afford it" let me know how things work out for you..

man... i keep wanting one.... but california is a huge hinder to this....

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Okay, I guess I'll chime in now. I would highly recommend doing the EVOMS SC mod. Now, this comes with the following caveats in this order: 1.) The others are correct, you should invest in seat time and improving your driving skill first. 2.) What do you mean by tracking? If it is DE and private track day stuff, then by all means, after you have increased your driving skill or if you are already at an "acceptable" level (understanding "acceptable" is a relative term), THEN DO THE MOD. 3.) After you do the supercharger mod, you should not expect to be able to do much with it, except straight line rolling acceleration and cautious corner exiting, until you have also upgraded your clutch and suspension for the increased power/entry speed/exit speed. The stock clutch will handle the increased power, but the most fun will be had with a clutch upgrade. 4.) I highly recommend that if you do the supercharger upgrade and are tracking the car, whether in DE/open track days/ or competition W2W events, you DEFINITELY NEED to upgrade your brakes (rotors, pads, lines, brake fluid, etc.). The brake upgrade should be done in conjunction with the mods recommended in #3. 5.) I also highly recommend upgrading your exhaust (definitely high flow cats (200 cell), and mufflers; while, I do not think the upgraded headers are worth the money for the 5hp or so increase they give you) for even more power. Aside from the power, the exhaust note you will get is INTOXICATING. 6.) If by "tracking" you are referring to competition, W2W racing in a defined class, the others who have mentioned that you will "screw up" by supercharging your car are also correct because, like they said, you will bump yourself up into a class, such as GT1, where you will be outgunned and seriously disappointed. No matter how much supercharging we do to our 3.4L engines, they won't be the same as a built 350 or a WCGT Cup 3.6L. Now, as for those who say supercharging with the EVOMS supercharger will shorten the life of your engine or kill your reliability/driveability, I call BS. I've had my EVOMS Supercharger installed for about 23K miles now without any issues. Okay, I had an oil return line that was a little loose, but 60 seconds with a wrench tightened it right back up. About 70% of my car's last 6,000 miles have been on the track. I have used (not abused) my car for the purpose for which the Porsche engineers designed it. No problems, even though it has been seriously overheated on one occasion (tucked under a chipped 997TT for two laps at Hallett, I took all the air off the radiators and it caused the temp. to max out on the gauge and it took 2 laps of clean air after I passed the 997TT for the temp to come back down). No problems, even though I regularly bang the rev limiter on upshifts. What I don't do is over-rev the engine on downshifts. Rev-matching/heel-toe driving is a must (if you don't know how to do it, learn now, it isn't hard to do with normal size feet). You must change your oil religiously. Many say that even with DE/Open Tracking you can still go 15K miles between oil changes, but I'm a pu**y in this arena, as I change my oil (or have it changed) about every 6 mos. or 6,000 miles. My car has over 95,000 miles on it. I have the original engine in the car and it has not been rebuilt. I do concede I may have a "cherry" engine from the factory, because my car also did not have any RMS issues either, although, the RMS was replaced at around 72,000 miles when the supercharger and clutch upgrades were performed. All of this should not mislead you into thinking you have to do all of the mods at once. I just want you to understand, that IMO, you can supercharge the car first if you want, but for god's sake, please use caution for anything other tahn normal city/backroad driving until you get at least the suspension & clutch upgrades done. FYI, I'm a dummy and still don't have the brake upgrade done (except Pagid Black Pads, braided steel lines and race fluid). I've overheated the brakes many times (read exceeded 1,100 deg. F) and lost the brakes going into corners during sessions because of it. But, I know how to figure out when the brakes are about to go, test them on straights and get the hell off the track as soon as I know they are either too soft or virtually non-existent, so as to not be a danger to the others on the track. Right now, the most dangerous thing to my car's well being was 3 weekends ago, when I let a friend drive the car at Hallett Raceway. He lost control between Turn 7 and Turn 8. The car did not fare too well in its off track excursion into the tire wall and flipping onto its side. OUCH!!!!!! But, even after flipping on its side and smacking the tire wall with the left side, rear end, and right side of the car. The car was flipped back over, the internal fuel filters cleaned and the ignition fired. The engine immediately came to life without hesitation. The car is going to need two new radiatiors, left front quarter panel, right front quarter panel, new right AND left side doors, new front bumper cover, new rear bumper cover, new rear aero skirts, new right side aero skirt, lots of metal straightening on the rest of the car including the roof and a new paint job. Oh well, here's to racing. ***EDIT*** Good god, I forgot the most important upgrade. TIRES, for goodness sake, if you don't upgrade your tires, you can just forget getting the most out of your newfound hp. I won't get into recommendations for tires, but depending on what type of tracking you do, I would suggest a 50 wear rating or stickier. If you can get your hands on some non-DOT approved pure race rubber, do it. Hoosiers have worked well for me, but they aren't nearly as good as my Michelin Porsche Cup tires (non-DOT, not Pilot Sport Cups, but the real racing slicks used in the IMSA GT3 Cup Series). The Michelin slicks are the ****!!!!!!!!!!

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Also, not a bad idea. No matter what you do, if you are trying to build a race car or true track car, it is better/less expensive to buy one someone else has already built, rather than building it yourself. If the race car just happens to come from the factory, then oh well, so be it. Buy a used GT3 Cup car and really have a blast. Supercharge all you want, but HORSEPOWER GAIN is no substitue for WEIGHT REDUCTION when tracking a car. Weight reduction helps more than power when the conversation between you and your car goes something like this, "Turn baby . . . . tuuurrrrnnnnnn, . . . . . now brake, . . . . brake . . . . for the love of god, slow the hell down . . . . . brakes???? where the hell did my brakes go? Oh Sh*t, turn, please turn. . . . . . . okay, baby, I promise we'll both go on diets before the next time at the track."

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here i am. i've been off the grid for a while and just catching up. i HAD an SC on my '99 3.4L and it made incredible power. with the vortech SC the power was kinda peaky, i.e. really only kicked in above 4500 rpm. the engine did run quite hot when tracking in 90+ temps so i installed a boost cooler. worked great to keep engine temps in check... until you run out. ran into the red zone once when the boost cooler ran out. it was great on the track and i could keep up with gt3s but i wanted a different challenge. i wanted to keep up with gt3s WITHOUT the SC. also, i'll be racing soon... the SC would not be legal in the class i want to run in. i could still run the SC but it would bump me up into a class that had 500+ HP lightweight monsters... would not be very competitive. i did install a smaller pulley but evidence showed that there was lots of blow-by so HP is somewhat capped to how much boost the cylinder can hold. if the OP wants a real challenge he should get a quality suspension (motons or JRZs), super sticky tires and have fun in the corners. pull away from the higher HP cars in the turns and you'll really know who has more talent. although the HP/boost is addicting pulling away on the straight away takes no talent.

I believe the OP said he was an instructor, so he's probably no novice to the track. +1 on suspension upgrades - but that applies to ANY car you track a lot - not just if you add power. As for the brakes, I haven't found the 996 brakes to be wimpy... I'm sure you could give yourself a moderate boost in power and not worry about them. Again, if the OP is an instructor, dollars to donuts says he's already running a brake pad that can handle it and he's running a good brake fluid.

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Renntech, I like your car, we both have similar rims but yours has suspension, do you have more pics to show bfr/after and how much did it cost you? SC sounds awesome, thinking about it for my car too

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How much does the EVO SC charger cost? or is that included in the price you list there?

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$10k for the 3.4 and $11K for the 3.6 + labor

I've always been curious about something, though: Our Mini, which is just an urban scoot, is not supercharged. The reason I didn't go for that was that the supercharger creates something like an 18hp parasitic power loss at lower rpms when it's not pressurizing. The car was a pig around town, IMVHO, and hard to be smooth in. What's the effect of a supercharger on this engine? Do you notice any drag when you're just cruising around town?

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18 hp? Wow that sounds too high. I could see this at full boost on that little motor but at low RPM? Even though it is not boost, it is helping the engine to injest air easier , if you will. On my past S/C'd cars, they would lose a lot of low end torque if you removed the drive belt, of course other factors come into play as the engine has to draw air through the S/C on its own (roots type or centrifuagal). To your point, I had a friend at work who drove both the "S" Mini and the non and he said the driveability was far better on the low end with the "S". I am sure it is from the S/C helping the engine breath on the low end.

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Does this advice still ring true eight years later? I'm looking at buying a SC 99 cab with 106k miles. Asking price is $14k, and I want a weekend car for canyon carving (and don't fit in a 986).

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That advice will always be true.

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At those miles and at that price, I'd be concerned at the maintenance and how long the SC's been on there as it may need to be rebuilt/replaced.

I just thought I would ask about the current health of the engine before you supercharge it? Its a 99 high compression 3.4L. That's not exactly a great candidate for supercharging. If you need someone to explain engine CR's, supercharging, and efficiency, never mind. Hey , it may hold together forever!

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You spew old 80's thinking and rationelle. Bring yourself into the modern times as well as not responding to 2007 posts bruh.

I was reading up on my AMG's engine. The S/C uses the clutch to activate. So if you are at low RPM or cruising along, S/C is disengaged. When you romp on it, clutch engages and S/C goes to work. Kind of like in "Mad Max" movies, you see Max flip the switch and blower comes on. So when you don't romp on the car, it runs as a N/A 5.5 liter (300ish H/P), when you need the power it goes to 5.5 S/C (500 H/P).

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This is nothing special. A lot of SC's do that.