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YOUR RESEARCHHelp with wheel tire size please
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Run 225/40/18 and 275/35/18 dws06+
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Suggestion
I don't know why the OEM 10" wide wheels that Porsche sells for the winter setup don't have a better offset to fill the fender, but they probably had a good reason.
Leading evidence: 'Run 225/40/18 and 275/35/18 dws06+' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Fill fender' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I use 265/35R18 on a 10x18 wheel in the rear on my C4S (same drivetrain as turbo) to drive in Canadian winters.
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For the rears, the Porsche users manual says to use 265/35r18's but I'm using the 275/35r18 which is both wider and taller than the OEM recommendation.
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For the rears, the Porsche users manual says to use 265/35r18's but I'm using the 275/35r18 which is both wider and taller than the OEM recommendation.
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Extensively used Blizzaks previously, on ski trips in the worst condition mtn roads of NH, VT & Maine, Mass for many years.
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Fill fender
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Suggestion
I don't know why the OEM 10" wide wheels that Porsche sells for the winter setup don't have a better offset to fill the fender, but they probably had a good reason.
Recommend 225/40r18 and 265/35r18 is a bit cheaper
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Suggestion
Going with the Porsche recommended 225/40r18 and 265/35r18 is a bit cheaper, but the diamter/rev per mile numbers are further apart and even with the 10" wheel the wheel rim sticks out from the tread (in other words the section/bead width is wider than the tread width) and that isn't great and looks weird and increases the likelihood of curbing the wheel..
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I mentioned this to a sales guy on their chat system, and he put me in touch with the guy who coordinates the recommended installers and he offered to re-imburse the difference between the cheapest installer I went to and the independent place which, IMHO, is going above and beyond and really solidified my desire to get tires from them.
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Suggestion
A 225/40, 255/35, and 295/30 all have the same sidewall height, but if you stretch or squeeze them onto the same 18x10 wheel you'll find the handling changes drastically.
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Hi guys
recently I got my 996 turbo and I really want to drive all year
So I am looking for either all season or winter tire
Found used wheels with tires
Not sure the offset Front wheels are 8Jx18 and rear10Jx18.Bridgestone for Porsche2 Blizzard LM-60 275/35R18 95H 2 Blizzard LM-60 225/40R18 95H The stamp on the inside one of the wheel is P130
do you think that should work?
Also I did read all the previous posts Found on Google by members
Many posts are outdated and tires Not available so i am little lost here
thanks in advance!
Or maybe I should just get tires for stock wheels? But what tires are out there that would work?
On the 8 and 10 width Carrera wheels you can run
225x40x18
285x35x18
Conti DWS and Michelin 4s have all seasons in that size. You can find them on tire rack. May be a few more as well.
Good luck.
For snow the skinnier the tire the better. I use 265/35R18 on a 10x18 wheel in the rear on my C4S (same drivetrain as turbo) to drive in Canadian winters. Your 275s should be fine. 285 was the standard width on the 10� wheels of the C4S vs the 295s on no 11� turbos.
As has been said, early C2 cars came with 265 on 10” wheels. I’ve run 275 on my C2. Do keep in mind with the turbo, you are all wheel drive, so tire size and ratio front to rear is extremely important mechanically.
Also keep in mind offsets. C2/C4 wheels need (iirc) 25mm front & 30mm rear spacers to clear Turbo brakes. That was a non starter for me so I gave away the C2 wheels I bought.
Just went thru this. got some Pilot sport 4 S.
The difference from 285 to 275 is about 3/10's dia more for the 285 and 1lb heavier and about $40 more money ea, and of course the 10mm more section width.
I got the 275 from Costco at the same price as tire rack discount tire etc, except including installation with the unbeatable Costco warranty.
Either one will work fine for the street on a c2. On a c4 or turbo use the 285. As said before, 275 was never a factory 996 size. Factory was 285 on 02+ & 265 were on 99,00,01 iirr....
Ya, my mistake, My above post was meant to be in the other recent tire thread.
My 2cents...
The Blizzaks tires you have on the 10x18_ 8x18 (with unknown ET..?) are great snow tires...
Btw ET is cast in the wheel, right next to the valve stem on Porsche wheels. iirr 996tt has big brakes that need more ET to clear than NB cars..?
Extensively used Blizzaks previously, on ski trips in the worst condition mtn roads of NH, VT & Maine, Mass for many years. They are my go to tire for cold snowy roads. They are snow tires make no mistake. If you're not going to be a hard core snow driver a AS might be better for all around winter use. There are a lot of good winter tires out now...
Your front diff is fussy, as it should be, on incorrect dia tires. Keep it simple, get the correct size Porsche recommend for the exact car/wheel ya got. Or try to mix and match the correct dia tires..?
jmo
Tiny thread bump but figured I'd ask here instead of starting another thread and kind of just wanted a sanity check and to see if anyone has used these sizes specifically for a winter setup with 8" fronts and 10" rears in an 18" rim. I found a set of OEM Twist Wheels with offsets at ET50 front and E47 rear I believe.
So, I've been pouring over the stats tables for the Continental DWS06+ and have basically found that the closest fit in regards to overall diameter in a reasonable width is a 235/40r18 front tire and a 275/35r18 rear. They are 318 and 312 revs per mile respectively and are about .2 inches difference (25.4" and 25.6"). They are about half an inch bigger than the stock sizing, but I don't think that is a bad thing. Those sizes are MUCH closer then either the 285 or 295 or even the 265 especially when you try to match them up to the front tire sizes available. The 235/45R18 and 295/35r18 are are fairly close in size to each other, but they are basically an inch taller compared to the stock sizes.
All this might be different for other tires, but at least for the DWS06+ those are the closest. Going with the Porsche recommended 225/40r18 and 265/35r18 is a bit cheaper, but the diamter/rev per mile numbers are further apart and even with the 10" wheel the wheel rim sticks out from the tread (in other words the section/bead width is wider than the tread width) and that isn't great and looks weird and increases the likelihood of curbing the wheel..
I feel like I've already over analyzed this, but just curious if anyone has run this tire/wheel size combo and has any input.
I run 225/40/18 and 275/35/18 DWS06+. Adds a bit of rake to the car which has pros and cons, and the 225 rolls sidewall less than 235 (on an 8J, mind you) so the steering feels relatively sharper. Overall I'd say it's a decent tire combo, the car won't handle all that great but it's an all-season tire designed for weather handling and comfort.
Is the sidewall roll really that noticeable between a 225 and a 235? That is only .2" difference .The diameter/revs per mile with your combo seems less ideal for the differential but still within specs (~2% difference front to rear).
I have a set of summer tires (the Continental EC Sport 02's in stock size 225 and 295) but being from Denver Metro in Colorado, where it drops below 20 degrees fairly often but only snows a few inches once a month most years, I want a tire setup that can handle any kind of weather without destroying the tires....hence the DWS06+.
It's not the sidewall height but the tire width to wheel width proportion. A 225/40, 255/35, and 295/30 all have the same sidewall height, but if you stretch or squeeze them onto the same 18x10 wheel you'll find the handling changes drastically.
(Edit: *Exact*) diameter/revs is unimportant unless you have an AWD car... at which point I'm pretty sure you're supposed to use 225/40 and 295/30 to keep the diameters equal front/rear. The ABS system is too lax to care so that's a great thing (at least, on my C2). Even with a 275/35 rear, the speedometer overreports significantly (80mph indicated is ~75 on radar) so there's no real reason you have to stick to factory sizes. Just do what the car needs to stay happy.
It is also relevant on a 2WD when it is equipped with traction control (option M222 coupled with M224) or PSM. The circumference is bigger than the front tyre's and this leads to loss of engine braking due to the TC (or PSM) adding a little throttle as it sees the rear wheels turn too slow compared to the fronts and tries to speed them up by adding a little throttle. See here also
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post17214403
Taller than stock rear tyres can/will rub the top of the inner wheel arch and scrape paint away.
While you're right, you had issues at 265/40/18 which is half an inch taller than even 285/35/18. People run the latter size with no issues so I'd wager that the diameter mismatch matters only at extremes, and the TC has some built-in margin within which it doesn't intervene unnecessarily.
This thread is about the 996 Turbo.... which is AWD. Most of these, and my car for sure, the speedo reads about 4mph slower with stock sized tires (225/40r18 and 295/40r18). I'm told this is because of German laws saying the speedo isn't allowed to show you going a speed lower than you are going but under reporting is ok...so they do that. Increasing the tire diameter will bring that more into reality...so I think its a benefit. Lastly, no one makes a cold weather tire in the stock sizing, so you have to compromise. Even the recommended sizing that Porsche says to use isn't ideal.
Thanks for your input...but I think, or at least hope, you are exaggerating the real world difference. Will they handle as amazing as a true summer tire... no way. Will they work as an all season cold weather setup... I sure hope so.
Ahhh.
The real world difference shows up on any spirited drive - but if you aren't looking for it, then yeah it doesn't matter. Now that we have context, then probably 215/45 and 275/35 is your best bet. Sizes are available, the diameters are equal front/rear, and they will fit reasonably well over the wheel widths.
I ended up going with the 215 and 275 combo. I was a little worried the fronts would fit weird on the 8" rim with a 7" wide tread, but they look fine. Took it out for a late night drive into the foothills a few nights ago and while it was noticeably different grip level, I suspect that has more to do with the All Season vs SUmmer tire difference more than the width. Steering was "easier" but grip was definitely less. I think, other than an obvious level of less grip, the main thing was an overall feeling of less communication through the steering wheel. I think they are a bit quieter and the extra diameter brings the speedo closer to being +/- 1mph vs 4mph with stock sized tires (according to GPS). It was below 40 degrees (F) for the whole drive, and got down into the teens for a few minutes and in the 20's for a lot of it. I think I would have been kinda scared to drive very fast with the summer tires, but the DWS's did great and I didn't feel a major grip change during the drive. There were a few icy patches left over from the snow a week ago and I found a turn off with some snow and they gripped just fine...but I don't think it was deep enough to really tell the true snow grip level. Looking forward to the next decent storm to take it out and really see.
The only real challenge with this was getting them installed. I failed to see that the load rating of the 275 tires was below the stock level (95y vs 98y) so all the corporate stores refused to mount them and I had to find an independent installer that was more expensive. I got them from Tire Rack, and went to a few of the recommended installers only to be turned down. I mentioned this to a sales guy on their chat system, and he put me in touch with the guy who coordinates the recommended installers and he offered to re-imburse the difference between the cheapest installer I went to and the independent place which, IMHO, is going above and beyond and really solidified my desire to get tires from them. With a combination of going to pick them up at their warehouse, that re-imbursement and a Continental online/mail in rebate, I got a pretty good discount off MSRP so despite having to run around a bunch I'm pretty happy with Tire Rack.
Looks pretty good though I might go with some spacers to fill the wheel well a bit better...
so let me get this right.. you have a turbo 911 and the OEM sizes were 225/40/18 and 295/30/18 for it and you went narrower?
not to mention you have the wrong wheels as I believe those are for a narrow body car not a WB...
You mean let you get that wrong? Maybe read the whole thread.
Find me winter rated tires or all season tires in the stock size and I'll happily get them.
Those are Porsche rims with the offset they recommended for the wide body 996's, that they sold specifically as a Winter setup. The rear tires are actually an inch WIDER than the OEM recommended winter tire size. The fronts are definitely narrower, but were the best fit diameter wise. There are only a few sizes that actually match diameters within the spec of the AWD system.
You mixed a lot of wrong tire sizes.
Front is 225/40-18
Back is 265/35 or 285/30-18
275/35 is a little bit too big, so your ABS can make problems...
But...o matter what you do... all Year Tires are 70% good at Summer and 65% good at winter, but they can�t handle both well. You can use thos with your VW Jetta or Mommys Van... but PLEASE not a sportscar like Poirsche. You ruin it with those "i cant do anything well"-Tires...
If he actually needs to see snow, you want narrower tires not wider. Pressure digs a tire into the snow and gives you grip, you'll never see a WRC car using wide tires in Finland. I don't know if I'd commit fully and run something like 215 all around (rear wheel bearings?) but that would be an awesome snow/safari setup.
@Electric-Mayhem
DWS06+ feel pretty gummy compared to any decent summer tire, that and the looks are something you just have to give up lol.
Admittedly not an ideal fender gap/offset from some angles.... but considering the spare wheel is a 3.5x17 et19... I think it is much better than a spare.
I made that post to share the current outcome of searching for a decent set of cold weather tires. I knew that a set of spacers might be required for it to look right (and said as such in the post)...but as it stands it is fully functional.
For me...the intent was to use summer tires in summer and then have a cold weather setup that is still fun to drive on the curvy sections when dry. The summer tires are great, but when it gets cold out they get scary even in dry conditions. Manufacturer is pretty adamant about the tire warranty being denied if there are signs of having driven any distance when it is below 20degrees fahrenheit and not brought back to at least 40 degrees before driving again. Where I live, its dry 90% of the summer but can still get very cold from November to April, so I was mostly looking for a UHP tire that you can drive all winter without worry with the added benefit of it being a little grippy in the snow if I happen to get caught in a storm. So... I'll take 70% as good as a summer tire vs. whatever percentage you'd give a snow tire in the dry compare to a summer tire in exchange for a tire won't fall apart when it gets below 20degrees. If I lived in a place that had snow on the roads all year the choice is obvious...but here in the Colorado Front Range, it'll snow once or twice a month but is cold a lot. After it snows, 90% of the time the next day the roads are clear and dry and the other 10%, when we get a big storm, it takes less than a week. Occasionally we'll get a big storm followed by a cold spell and it'll take a few weeks to clear...but those events are increasingly more rare and I have a Volve XC70 and a Toyota Tacoma to choose from in those conditions.
My car had old snow tires on it when I got it...and they handled surprisingly well in the dry, but I was quite happy to get onto some summers. Just as happy as I am now to get onto some UHP All Seasons so I can still drive my car all winter without worrying about the temperature and weather but still be able to drive it like a Porsche.
Tyre Reviews just released this video with some interesting results when comparing widths on snow....
You Tube
Fully comfortable with that difference.... the tire I just put on is a 275/35r18 DWS06+ all season and has a 93y load index which is 1521lb load and the stock size 295/30r18 tires I use in the summer (Conti EC sport 02) have a 98y load index which is 1653lbs. That is per corner. 132lbs per corner less doesn't bother me at all especially considering its a 3660lb car and, even with these lower rated tires, just the rear tires can hold 80% of that weight by themselves.... I'm not worried at all.
Your results may vary.
I think that you're showing just how little you're thinking about the situation by referencing static vehicle weight.
How much weight is on a tire when it crashes over an expansion joint ? when the car is heavily loaded to one side during cornering ? On the exit of a corner when car is heavily loaded to one side AND you're mashing down on the go pedal. Do any of those situations sound like a good one to find out...ooops, I was wrong.
I just think for anyone reading this, they should be aware the consequences for being wrong could be quite severe so as to not blindly follow your lead without giving it some thought.
Load rating is what the tire has to hold AND be able to survive "reasonable" driving. A 215/275 tire propping up the corner weights of a 911 is way more safety factor already than what 3600lb Accords and Camries put onto their skinny factory tires; as long as he's keeping the gross weight per corner below what the tires are capable of handling, that is legally in the clear.
I think use case and perspective is important to qualify here. We're not doing high G's with all-seasons, it doesn't sound like any kind of performance driving is in the cards. And if you DO strike something hard enough to pop the tire, the percentage change in load rating is not what caused it.
You can know all that dude, I don't and frankly, not willing to take your word for it.
Sure, you guys may want to put around, the next guy reading this may think, well yeah I can run a track day or 2 on them (yes, some people are running track days on all seasons)...
That all said, anyone who showed up at the track with their rolling stock looking as goofy as the picture would hopefully be laughed off before any damage could be done.
What Circuit said... the only load rating they give a tire is speed and weight. Dynamic weight is factored into that static load rating. If a 132lb rated load difference is the difference between a catastrophic accident and just continuing down the road when I hit bump...then there is something very wrong with tire ratings and design. I don't know what the actual safety factor is...but its gotta be at least 2 to 1. If someone doesn't know what that means I'll let you google it. I would bet that there is some variance between one tire and the next as they come off the production line and though I'm not a tire engineer, I bet those variances could account for a real world load rating difference of 132lbs/corner or more.
I have zero worries about these tires being fully function and capable of safe driving up to their 186mph speed rating...which I would never try to hit with this setup anyways.
I suppose I respect your stance on pointing out that technically it is outside of spec... but I figured that was assumed. In my personal reality, actual load ratings are so close that the difference is negligible and likely within the reserve load factor. With all four tires load rating added together (of the tires I installed).... it can hold 6,348lb... that is 157% of the actual weight of the car. If that isn't sufficient to keep me from exploding into a fireball then I don't what to tell you.
As I said... your results may vary. The information I have given is worth the price of admission. I'll offer a 300% refund if someone gets these tires based on this thread and explodes when they hit an expansion joint or heavily load their car around a corner.
If I got laughed off the track for having my tires less than an inch inboard of the stock tire setup... then I am at the wrong event.
You don't have to take my word for it - the definition of the term is cut and dry:
https://www.bigotires.com/resources/...re-load-rating
Manufacturers leave huge safety margins here in order to not get sued off their asses - you have to do really, really dumb things to pop a tire from load (how about 3000lbs of downforce + a curb strike?), not putting 275's on a 265 or 295 application.
K... I get you man and I agree, the risks should be quite low but I think its a valid discussion to have. In any event, I'm not going to tell you guys not to run the dinky little tires - I'm just saying I wouldn't and the load rating would be one, of many reasons.
From the link you sent:
When you get new tires, make sure they have the same or higher load rating than the tires that came on the car or truck when it was new.
What's funny about all this....is that the "dinkier" of the two tires sizes I'm using, the fronts, which are actually .5" taller than stock but .4" narrower are actually a higher load rating then the stock tires(92y vs 93y). For the rears, the Porsche users manual says to use 265/35r18's but I'm using the 275/35r18 which is both wider and taller than the OEM recommendation. I would be seriously dubious trying to put a 265 on the stock 11" rim. I don't know why the OEM 10" wide wheels that Porsche sells for the winter setup don't have a better offset to fill the fender, but they probably had a good reason. Perhaps they intended to run spacers as well.
I didn't start this thread, I just added on to it, but I think some of the confusion is that the title doesn't mention that this is for Winter Tires on the 996 turbo AWD... since so many of the responses have been about stock sizing and not taking matching diameters into account.
There isn't much that is straightforward about finding WInter or even All Season tires for this car and no mater what there is a compromise.
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