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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHBrembo Resto and Brake Fluid Questions
Leading reported evidence
Use red ones)
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
These caps worked perfectly to prevent leakage while calipers were off the car (think I used the red ones):
Leading evidence: 'Use red ones)' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'cleaner repaint/masking opportunity' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean fluid coming out' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause · Original poster
Watched some YouTube videos on the paint reconditioning and it looks to add very little time to the process, +/- $50 per corner, a lot of peace of mind, and probably a cleaner repaint/masking opportunity.
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Suggestion
Just siphon the reservoir to get the old stuff out, then top it off with new fluid and bleed each brake until you have clean fluid coming out.
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Suggestion
Came across a write up saying to engage the brake just slightly to reduce to pressure before disconnecting any lines.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I've got all winter so as I replace the suspension I'm going to remove all the calipers and completely refinish them - they are beat, cosmetically.
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cleaner repaint/masking opportunity
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Suspected cause · Original poster
Watched some YouTube videos on the paint reconditioning and it looks to add very little time to the process, +/- $50 per corner, a lot of peace of mind, and probably a cleaner repaint/masking opportunity.
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21 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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I have my car up on QuickJacks and have removed every caliper, pad, rotor, and all the suspension components as part of a 109,000 mile complete suspension and braking replacement on a 2002 cab. The brakes all functioned well but the rotors were under spec and pads were shot (up front at least). I've got all winter so as I replace the suspension I'm going to remove all the calipers and completely refinish them - they are beat, cosmetically. See pic for condition. For some fun trivia: explain to me how the PORSCHE logo can be intact with the level of paint that has completely flaked off the caliper. The current logo is paint, not a decal. I'm baffled.
Please chime in with your experiences and recommendations to the following questions.
1. Is there any sense in rebuilding all the pistons if everything functions well? I have no leaks or bound up pistons.
2. Since I'm removing all 4 to refurbish them and have no idea on age of fluid - should I just drain the whole system down and start over with new fluid? (I think I know this answer)
3. Regarding refinishing calipers: I've seen some DIY threads here, many are quite old. I cannot locate reverse decals that would allow me to spray the PORSCHE in white, everything I find is listed as a high temp permanent PORSCHE decal that claims to just adhere to the top of the clear coat and you're good. I don't love that idea, it's not OE and I don't see it lasting. Can someone convince me they're fine (based on experience) or point me to the masking decal I'm looking for? Old links are out of stock or dead.
4. In general if someone has the ULTIMATE DIY refinishing thread they can point me to from their actual experience - I'd appreciate a link. Obviously I've read a couple - just looking for recent experience.
Hi, I'm rebuilding my C2 Cab, with 102K miles, and have a Youtube channel documenting the whole process. I've already rebuilt the suspension and have similar cosmetic issues with my rotors and calipers. My plan is to have them powdered coated, along with the wheels and then my wife will use her
Silhouette
to cut out the logo. then you can apply it and paint over it with a clear coat. Easy peasy. The hats can be painted with any engine paint you want. I did a metallic silver and think it's too shiny but it'll wear down eventually.
I'm sure my wife would be willing to make a set for you.
Good luck!
We've talked before - you shared your parts list with me before I placed my suspension order. Thanks for that. I've watched and rewatched your videos on the suspension as I took things apart (now how did he get onto that bolt?). I presently have everything off the driver's side, and new parts going back in the front driver's side tonight. I've only had to order things I forgot or things I didn't know I needed till I got it apart oh, 4 or 5 times now after the initial order! I bought new coated Zimmerman rotors so no need to paint and I read good reviews on the longevity of the coating - especially since this is a dry summer weather only car.
I would love a set of silhouette logo masks when she gets around to it. Now onto your powdercoating - I've got a great affordable powdercoater around me but I've decided against it. I have read a number of resources stating NOT to powdercoat calipers. Read PMB's reasoning here:
https://www.pmbperformance.com/painted_calipers.html
. I figure they look like this after 20 years. I can spruce them up a ton DIY with paint and avoid the controversy around powder.
I hadn't thought about that! I may have to rethink the powder coat. Still, painting is no biggie and having to repaint or touch-up every 20 years is fine by me. PM me when you need the masks and I'll pop them in the mail.
The Porsche logo isn't flaking off because it was painted on the caliper after the black paint was applied, then it was clear coated. The pealing you see is the clearcoat, not the paint.
That does make sense. Hard to believe how much the black faded where it isn't cleared. You can catch your fingernail on that layer of clearcoat.
Bumping again for any other advice from anyone on the rest of my questions. Anyone done this recently and have a great experience with some DIY instructions?
If you're going to the trouble of removing the calipers from the car to repaint them, you might as well spend the $200 or so for new seals and rebuild them. The car is nearly 20 years old at this point, so even if you don't "need" to rebuild them at the moment if you do it now you're good for another 20 years. Also, is it worth saving $200 to have to tear down the brake system again if a caliper should go bad a year from now?
Also, don't drain the brake fluid, just flush it thoroughly. You'll be fighting air bubbles for quite awhile if you drain the fluid then refill it. Just siphon the reservoir to get the old stuff out, then top it off with new fluid and bleed each brake until you have clean fluid coming out.
Totally agree with the above and would like to add (perhaps state the obvious) that the brake hose should be plugged or pinched shut after disconnecting it from the caliper. Otherwise the contents of the reservoir for that half of the brake circuit will drip out and you'd still end up with a ABS/PSM unit full of air bubbles upon refilling.
I’ve seen most “rebuild” kits for the calipers are only the outer seals. Where does one buy parts for a complete rebuild, e.g., pistons, internal piston o-rings, etc.?
That is because the clear coat is what makes the black shiney so without the clear its dull or matte looking. Ever see an older car that looks like it has blisters or sunburn? Its the clear peeling or having worn off and exposing the base layer of paint. Only fix is to refinish. Mine are the same way and I've been debating on what do to, thinking of buying a used set to avoid down time and refinish those and sell mine.
1. As others have noted, definitely replace the internal piston seals while you have the caliper off and apart. Those seals are rubber and deteriorate over time, and the cost of the parts is effectively higher than the labor to pull them off and work on them. If the car has been tracked, the repeated heat cycles will have potentially made the seals hard and brittle. They may not be visibly leaking now, but they're likely on borrowed time.
The pistons themselves are much more robust than the seals. If the pistons are in good visible condition, there's no need to replace them. Check them for burrs, sharp edges, nicks, etc. around the sides. If they do have any of these flaws, they can cut/damage your internal seals when they are pushed back into the piston bores during a pad change. They should be smooth around the sides.
2. On the fluid, yes, a complete flush is in order.
3. Can't help on the logos...but your original question about how is the original logo still okay. The caliper body was finished first, and the logo applied later via a separate process. I'm not sure how specifically Porsche/Brembo are applying their logos, so I won't speculate. What I will say is that some logo processes are more robust than others, and I've seen the same sort of thing you're showing many times over the years. While the two finish processes are obviously linked, their durability can sometimes be independent of one another. It is a bit odd the first time you see it happen, but it does happen.
Below is the order of caliper finishes in terms of overall durability, from most durable at the top to least durable. If you plan to track your car, you may want to stick with black paint or powder, as it tends to exhibit far less color shift than red. With enough track heat, red paint or powder turns all sorts of crazy colors like maroon or pink. Yellow tends to even worse than red in terms of durability and resistance to color-shift. Also FYI...Many calipers are anodized first, then painted. The underlying anodizing adds to their long-term durability.
Electroless Nickel Plating (ENP)
Hard Anodized
Paint / Powder coat
On the picture you posted, it looks like your calipers may have had a clear coat applied. If you've ever seen a vehicle on which the clear coat is failing, it often looks like your caliper. It comes off in patches.
Anyway, good luck on your refresh!
Thanks for all the new posts, lots of great info provided. I have settled on going ahead and doing the caliper rebuild per a lot of the recommendations here. Watched some YouTube videos on the paint reconditioning and it looks to add very little time to the process, +/- $50 per corner, a lot of peace of mind, and probably a cleaner repaint/masking opportunity. I really have the opportunity to take my time with this - the car isn't going anywhere till spring. What does everyone recommend to seal off the lines and prevent leakage while all four calipers are off the car? I worry if a clamp on the rubber line for long time is a bad idea? The lines are still soft and pliable. Would a cap for the threaded end fitting be better? Does anyone know off hand what that exact fitting size is?
On a related note - the suspension refresh continues. Check out this strut top mount that is probably the result of all 4 bump stops completely disintegrating over 20 years. I've only found crumbs of the rears inside the boots. I can't imagine the pothole that must have taken.
Don't think I ever got around to documenting everything, but did my brakes and suspension last winter. Came across a write up saying to engage the brake just slightly to reduce to pressure before disconnecting any lines. These caps worked perfectly to prevent leakage while calipers were off the car (think I used the red ones):
Amazon
Amazon
Another "while you're in there" item would be new brake lines, since those are also 20 years old at this point. The OEM lines are actually braided internally and are quite good, or you can get a set of aftermarket braided lines.
Good grief my wallet, Fed Ex driver, and wife all hate you guys. All jokes aside: four OEM style hoses and 1L of fluid are $65 at FCP Euro. I need the fluid anyway...
