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YOUR RESEARCHDropping the oil pan for my first oil change
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Replace oil pan
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It was an easy job to drop mine when I changed the oil pan for a replacement from ebay.
Leading evidence: 'Replace oil pan' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check filter first' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I replaced the sump bolts with custom length s/s studs .
I also replaced all the sump bolts with new factory bolts...they are dirt cheap...about 30% of the ones I removed were corroded significantly on the thread outside the block (on a California car no less)...and when I compared them with the new bolts it was obvious the previous bolts were non-factory (20mm instead of 16mm).
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This user replaced with a deep sump - but you can see the Torx bolts in pics.
Use extensively throughout the vehicle i was surprised
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Given that these are used extensively throughout the vehicle I was surprised to find non in stock anywhere in the Bay area dealers so plan a couple of days ahead accordingly.
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On the advice of those way more experienced with 996's than me, I used the factory drei bond to form the new gasket with a *very* thin bead so that excess did not enter the now clean oil pan.
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Suggestion
On the advice of those way more experienced with 996's than me, I used the factory drei bond to form the new gasket with a *very* thin bead so that excess did not enter the now clean oil pan.
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just a few questions, I spoke with one of the guys at LN and he suggested I drop the oil pan and look for metal shavings as I want to get a benchmark on engine life.
Let me state I'm not to concerned as my first 5,000 miles in 1 month (yeah I'm driving the Sxxt out of it) I don't see and oil loss/burn.
What are the torque spec's for the oil pan and do I need to replace a gasket?
Yes, Jake I will be buying your book when I get home from the office.
thanks in advance
Honestly I wouldn't drop the pan unless there was some stuff in the filter you wanted to learn more about.
Not that it's a pita, but coming from the Moto Guzzi world where our oil filters are INSIDE the pan, behind 14 bolts, dropping oil pans just isn't my idea of fun on an afternoon or weekend - unless there was more of a reason to do it. Then, and not really in this case**, those bolts are threaded into the block, so the theory is that the less you have to mess with them the longer they will last and the less they will be exposed to over tightening and stripping.
**Long day I work, I mean that the sump usually isn't dropped frequently, so some of the wear and tear on those threads isn't there. Where as with the Guzzi unless a person gets an external filter adapter, the sump needs to come off every or every other change which introduces opportunity for a lot of wear on the threads.
We should do drinks again sometime soon, and aren't you working from home?
[edit] and if it's not leaking now, and the filter is clean, it may not be a bad idea to keep the pan where it is. Not that it's anywhere close to rocket science, but if it isn't leaking and it's happy it may be best to leave it like it is rather than introduce an opportunity for it to not seal right and leak.
Yes the oil pan bolts are threaded into the block then torqued to 7.5 ft/lbs.
As long as the machined sealing surfaces are spotless, (final wipe with rubbing alcohol & lint free wipe) it seals easily with many anaerobic sealants. I like the Permatex #82194 Ultra Grey.
New M96/7 owners should do this ASAP.
Thanks for the replies, I'm mixed on dropping the pan but I'll check the filter first. To relatively easy process to accomplish and as much as I would like the Porsche dealer or an indie to do it for me just because of the potential oil mass, I don't trust anybody to do it as well as I would, being the **** retentive nut job that I am, i'm cursed with my German grandfather's words to do it right or keep your goddamn hands off of it.
Good idea for meeting for some more drinks, I work from home when I'm not visiting clients I have a little flexibility.
I dropped mine and wish I hadn't. The oil and filter was already telling enough. It didn't completely seal the first time and I really took my time trying to do a good job.
Even after installing my LN deep pan/baffle, it also didn't seal properly the first time and I wayyy overdid the work on it after the experience above.
Wouldn't want to go through that again at all. Thats a lot of friggin oil to figure out how not to waste.
FWIW there is no gasket. As mentioned you use sealant to re-seal. Not all that difficult but somewhat messy. Dropping the oil pan should not be a common practice. Without all that fuss, change oil/filter, inspect the filter, and finger the sump (I know I know). If you feel any grit or shavings then plan on dropping the pan. Recommend an LN filter adapter and magnetic drain plug.
Brings up another good point, having a magnetic plug would be enough to tell what's going on in there and/or enough on it's own to clean things up. If that's clean, and the filter is clean, then no reason at all to pull the sump.
I'd even argue that cleaning all the gasket junk isn't the best for it and exposes chances to wear down the surface or scratch it.
Well if you need help and I'm free, or need someone to hand you beers...
It's not a big deal, and with the dealers and indies we have here I'd more than trust them to do it, and if you want to I'm not going to stop you.
I'd just check the filter first and see what if anything is going on and then take things from there.
Use something like Dreibond or Loctite sparingly if you plan on dropping the pan. If you're not very detail oriented, leave it to the pro's or don't do it or else you may end up with something like this in your oil pickup.
Eng1.jpg
FWIW, having just dropped the sump plate on my 996 a few weeks back for the first time, I'm glad I did it, it provided peace of mind that nothing was lurking in there that was a clue to something time critical.
Large debris (as shown in alpine003's photo) won't make it to the oil filter but will obstruct oil volume flow. It will also give you the opportunity to take a quick look at your oil baffle flaps to see they have not deteriorated (not seen it myself but others claim to have). Jake Raby recently posted a picture of a sump he had just opened where he found the entire oil pickup pipe missing.....
I won't do it every oil change in the future but will occasionally take a look. Whilst I was at it I changed out the drain plug for a magnetic one as others have advised you which will give you plenty reassurance every time you swap oil in the future and take a look at it. I also replaced all the sump bolts with new factory bolts...they are dirt cheap...about 30% of the ones I removed were corroded significantly on the thread outside the block (on a California car no less)...and when I compared them with the new bolts it was obvious the previous bolts were non-factory (20mm instead of 16mm).
On the advice of those way more experienced with 996's than me, I used the factory drei bond to form the new gasket with a *very* thin bead so that excess did not enter the now clean oil pan. It honestly wasn't a hard job, just get the car high enough up that you are not struggling and pay attention to torques, those are small bolts in an aluminum block so have an appropriately sized torque wrench where 7.5ftpounds is not in the lower 20% . Top tip: Home Depot concrete mixing tub is an excellent oil catch when you pull off the sump plate.
Ion, do you have the part numbers for the sump bolts? I agree on the Drei Bond, I'm planning on sticking with stock everything unless they are go fast parts.
Chiamac or anyone else in Minnesota want to have a beer and oil change/oil pan get together?
900-378-035-01 (Item 17 on Page 10 of the PET).
For some reason some dealers show these as Torx head in the online description but they are hex head.
Given that these are used extensively throughout the vehicle I was surprised to find non in stock anywhere in the Bay area dealers so plan a couple of days ahead accordingly. Prices also all over the place.
So you're saying then, that, we can't trust what's on a magnetic drain plug and what's in the filter to tell if any further action, such as, dropping the pan, is needed?
I can see your point and others, but I just can't see how doing that should be normal or should be talked about on here as being normal.
****, in that case, I better go and drop the pan right now and see what's going on in there! Maybe, I need to flatbed it asap to the shop! I better go call Raby and see what he says.
Correct - E10 Torx i believe.
This user replaced with a deep sump - but you can see the Torx bolts in pics.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...s-baffles.html
Sure, but then you have that same opportunity to make that same mistake... Or, if it's sealed and not leaking, you have the opportunity to not goop it up enough so it now leaks and you get the pleasure of doing it all over again...
[edit] And honestly, it's not those big bits I'd be worried about anyway. It's the smaller ones (if any) that would make it past the pickup screen and then God forbid go through the oil filter somehow.
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Interesting. Thats a 997-1 write up. Obviously pretty much identical engine and the PET for the 997-1 shows the switch to the E-10 Torx head (which is a new part number 900 385 009 01). Identical thread (and presumably torque spec and corrosion properties) so interchangeable in the real world. So take your pick then, they are both still in the parts system with different part numbers and used in the newest cars for different applications.
The horizontal baffle ,yes, horizontal -is essential.
It stops the oil 'climbing' the walls of the sump. Many of the old baffle+deep sump products did not use a horizontal baffle effectively. Therefore they were useless at preventing oil starvation in high G turns.
We've debated/discussed this before. There is no significant downside to a horizontal baffle.
There is a Porsche video showing a simulation of the g-forces on an engine going around Nurburgring .
2009 Porsche 911 Engine Running Simulated Nurburgring on Active Dynamometer -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfuleS9rnzc
I replaced the sump bolts with custom length s/s studs . Loctite(blue) the studs into the crankcase. The studs have an internal hex drive in the 'head' so you can position them correctly. Thereafter, sump plate removal is easy. Sealer removal is still a chore.
This is not the exact product but gives you the concept.Works well for exhaust manifold also:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-968-...19c029&vxp=mtr
It was an easy job to drop mine when I changed the oil pan for a replacement from ebay. Cost me $50 free shipping. (I cracked my old pan when I inadvertently pushed the jack a bit too far under the car). On replacing the new pan, I had four longer same thread bolts with the heads removed, in place as guides for the new pan. When the new pan was in place, I then removed the guide bolts, as I only had them in finger tight. There is a lip on the passenger side of the pan where you put in a large screw driver and twist it to release the old pan. Just a slight coating of sealant on the pan, nothing on the main structure. Use a raiser blade to remove old sealant plus paint thinner or alcohol. Check the flaps and filter screen. Other than those points, it was a real easy procedure. Don't over tighten anything. You will feel how tight you need them as you loosen the old bolts. I used the same bolts. No oil leakage what so ever.
