12 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHAnother coolant on ground question
Leading reported evidence
Replace leaking ones
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
we replaced all the leaking ones with worm clamps and I am now good to go!
Leading evidence: 'Replace leaking ones' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check floor' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Bring the engine up to running temp again 180+ temp and check the floor again after the system has cooled down in your garage.
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Suggestion
Have the mechanic warm the car up real good and re-perform the check, he will find it.
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12 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T213932Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Went out to my car at work to shoot home to let the dogs out to pee and saw a sizable puddle of coolant under left size of engine. Looked underneath and dripped down over headers. Figured expansion tank went. Towed to mechanic. Called me back saying they pressurized the system to 25lbs and held no problem. No leaks in the system.
Little more background. I did top off the coolant last Thursday. Was a quarter inch below min mark. Filled it up maybe to a quarter inch over min line. Drove the car 4 times before this happened. Never got any hotter than normal. Fans cycle fine.
I do have the updated cap. Any thoughts?
I changed water pump 8 K miles ago. Oem. No Drips from there.
I agree with Paul, heat up the car till the fans kick in and then recheck.
Mine was absolutely fine (no leaks) for my regular garage checks... then Eurosport checked for me and said my baby was leaking like a sieve!
After a few years of service the regular band clamps get a little weak... we replaced all the leaking ones with worm clamps and I am now good to go!
Let us know how it goes!
I can only echo what others have said.
My experience is a bad coolant tank may not leak under some scenarios including a cold pressure test. The mostly likely scenario in which the tank will leak is with engine fully up to temperature to the point the radiator fans are running -- with A/C off! -- and then the engine is shut down.
The heat load will raise the coolant temperature and pressure and the tank (and hoses/etc.) being warm and more pliable if there is a leak it will make itself known.
Did the above with my Boxster and the tank gushed hot coolant. After an overnight cool down the next AM I refilled the tank with distilled water -- around a gallon or so -- and drove the car to the dealer a few miles away. Of course the engine didn't get fully up to temperature but the coolant tank didn't leak a drop on the way there or after I got there and parked the car.
Your dog is messing with you
Seriously though, the shop should not bump it over 19 PSIG, per Porsche spec. Have they separately tested the coolant cap? Even an updated cap could fail anytime.
Oh one very important point, make sure they keep the pressure for at least 1/2hr if not an hr before they declare the tank is leak free. This is based on other posts and personal experience also (found my leak at ~20min into the test, right before I gave up)
It could be as simple as you over filling the coolant tank. As you know water expands when hot and will find it's way out of the relief valve on top of the coolant tank. Better to keep the coolant level slightly lower than normal allowing for any expansion under normal running temps. Just a thought. When cold, use a turkey baster to lower the level in the coolant tank. Then take the car out on a run. Bring the engine up to running temp again 180+ temp and check the floor again after the system has cooled down in your garage.
Good point Hurdi - this could be it but ruled it out as i had driven multiple times since the top off with no overflow, but maybe the planets aligned perfectly to cause the overflow
quick update. mechanic called and the ran it to operating temp and after shutting off it seams to be leaking form the relief valve at the top. does this make sense? how much pressure should this system see?
The cap is designed to release pressure at ~21 PSIG. The relief valve is one of the places that can leak. The valve is held down by a bunch of screws and there's a rubber diaphragm inside and both could leak. Better to replace the whole tank IMO, especially if it's an original tank.
