37 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHGrinding noise at startup.
Leading reported evidence
Replace with ln prior
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Bearing already replaced with LN prior to my ownership.
Leading evidence: 'Replace with ln prior' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check cam deviations would be a good idea' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Seems like checking cam deviations would be a good idea before running the engine much more.
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Suggestion
Sounds like timing chain rattle, did you have the cam deviations checked during your PPI??
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Suggestion
bro are you going to tell me you didn't even drop the oil pan to inspect your cylinder walls
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Suggestion
Don�t know where you are but if you are in the Houston area i can recommend a mechanic that would be pretty reasonable, you will be taking the car to his house.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
37 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T000231Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
to be honest I did not have PPI. Has a good service history. I probably should have but it Runs very healthy. Maybe I�ll take it to my inde. I�ve read many threads about timing noise on startup and that is more of a screech. This sounds like a gear grind type noise. Should I have timing checked right away?
believe me, I expected this along with some ball busting. not looking for anyone to feel sorry for me. I know the risks and not much scares me. It just doesn�t sound like timing. Because of the gear sound..any thougjts
Don't worry about the people giving you a hard time. While the goal to have an invasive PPI is touted here alot, and is a great ideal, sometimes the real world just doesn't work out.
Only thing I can add, on-topic, is an endorsement to listen to Porschetech3. He's one of the few real proven experts around here.
Seems like checking cam deviations would be a good idea before running the engine much more. Better to rule out the worst possibility and then back up to successively more minor issues, rather than to assume something minor and have a bad thing get alot worse; at least that's my doctor's approach!
Good luck! Keep us posted.
copy that. I will get it checked out ASAP/. I will definitely update. Nothing worse than reading thread and have it drop off. Like watching a movie bus missing last 5 min. Really GRINDS my gears.
Usually u will only get the timing rattle on a cold engine. The oil drains from the tensioner. Does it make the noise in every start up or just first thing in the morn?
My guess is wear pads are done on the Variocam chain actuator... that would be a good place to start. Chain guides/tensioners could be shot too.
Like PorscheTech3 said, get your camshaft deviations checked. You don't want them off more than 6 degrees.
Most liKely tensioners then. Have them drop the sump plate and look for plastic bits. Cam deviation #'s will tell u if the variocam pads need replaced too.
If its just the tensioners parts r under $200 each(there r 3) and they can all be done without dropping the motor.
I would venture to say most people don't have their car scoped. Maybe now with more info about bore scoring available but I will tell you 3 years ago when I was shopping it was still IMSB, IMSB, IMSB when I was doing my research. When I was selling a 996 for a detailing client of mine, not one person asked about bore scoring, the conversation started and ended with the IMSB.
Using a borescope? I mean it could be a complete waste of money or it could save you $20k+ on an engine. I would actually worry more about bore scoring than the IMSB, IMSB is a relatively easy fix if it hasn't already damaged things. Bore scoring is gonna cost more than most of these cars unless you can do the work yourself.
We all have different levels of risk tolerance and are at different comfort levels with losing $30,000. We know you think it's an unnecessary step because you've been very vocal about this, but I'd say you're tip-toeing the "other side of the fence" by mocking people who choose to perform this type of diligence. I'd say please just live and let live and don't let advice that you don't agree with affect you personally. My unsolicited two cents.
I'm not trying to start crap and I have no beef with anybody but things get awfully personal here on a technical advice forum. Give advice and let the OP decide if it's valuable. Good luck with the inspection
@98-996
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Geez, was looking for some input, didn�t expect to be called a retard. Lol. Just kidding we all on the same team. I have thick skin. Only thing that scares me is our current leadership. Thank you everyone for the input.
Second this- Definitely have a look at the tensioners and for sure the Variocam pads. When my engine was apart for its recent rebuild (with mileage a bit lower, the variocam pads pretty well on their last leg) deviations to back it up. Good luck with everything, keep us posted.
welcome. Your car is earlier than mine. Anyway maybe there is another guy close to you that has the durametric. Then you can run the cam deviations and fuel trims. If your PCA section is active go to cars and coffee, you�ll meet a bunch of people and most will be nice and probably offer to help you. Hopefully you got a good deal on your car. I bought mine unseen, just pictures, car fax, FaceTime video cold start and driving the car. I didn�t do a ppi, i was satisfied with the service records. To make a long story short I�m $20,000 in the car, it just turned 98,000 miles and I have driven it 7,000 miles since I bought it. Mine does rattle when cold but that�s it. My cam deviations are 1,1. This is the second time I have run them. My car sometimes sits for 5 days, without being driven. Don�t know where you are but if you are in the Houston area i can recommend a mechanic that would be pretty reasonable, you will be taking the car to his house. Hopefully it is something minor and you can fix it and enjoy the car.
I have a 99 that had a lot of chain thrash at start up, and it did not sound like that. That almost sounds like some sort of engine tin vibrating at a certain frequency and then dying when the engine sits at idle.
Update:
Decided to drop the engine over the winter. Had a code for bad or failing Bank 2 VarioCam actuator. Also deviation was bouncing all over the place.
New Bank 2 VarioCam Actuator, Solenoid and pads. Bank 1 was in great shape so didn't touch. Timing is spot on!
New AOS and hoses
New LN Injectors
New Plugs
New updated Chain tensioners
New seal on IMS flange. Bearing already replaced with LN prior to my ownership.
RMS was already replaced and dry as a bone so didn't touch
New LUK flywheel. Found it on RockAuto for $125.00. Last one in stock, next day it was $700.00
New Sachs clutch Kit. Fork was updated to 997 already.
Rebuilt My starter. Car starts much faster! Still does the clicking on cold start. Deviation is 0 and 3 holding steady, no bouncing.. No codes the last 1000 miles since refresh. Night and day difference on how the car starts and drives. Prior to refresh it would be difficult to start when hot.
How has no one mentioned a loose exhaust bolt?! It sounds like somewhere there's a loose bolt. I have a similar sound with my exhaust (which is a little loose).
