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YOUR RESEARCHQuick Jacks
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Run quickjack up the highest
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I ran the QuickJack up the highest setting and everything was fine.
Leading evidence: 'Run quickjack up the highest' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'safest' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean suspension and i could easily get the entire quickjack' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I have a commercial truck repair shop and am spoiled, that I used my 18K two post when I did my engine swap on my 997.
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But I also have a bunch of 2x10" lumber from ramps that I used for the car ministry when we were doing free oil changes.
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For home and hobby use, I use them on all my cars.
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Disconnect hydraulics and leave it up indefinitely
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Suggestion
you�re supposed to raise it past the first or second stop, lower it down against it, and then keep going until the lines are clear and you can disconnect the hydraulics and leave it up indefinitely.
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safest
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Suspected cause
Our liftbar system with 2 jacks and 8 jackstands takes some time and work to get the vehicle up and down but we have a 24' wide garage so plenty of room, they probably give the best underbody access, are real easy to store, lifts all our vehicles, and probably the safest when lifted tied with giant 4 post lifts.
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83 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Outcome without a verified action link
When I used the big two post, I was a little creative and jacked the car up in the back to swing the lift arms under the car, so that worked out.
Has anyone used quick jacks on their 911? Is there any known issues with the the size of Quick Jacks on Porsche's? I'm starting to see these around and wonder if the 911 could work with this Jack.
There are a couple guys on here that have them and I know for a fact that one of them uses a 7k because he has a pickup for his second vehicle. Right now I'm waiting to get a 7k as well since my other car is a VW Touareg that weighs right at 5k.
So they fit between the wheels on the 911, the 7K is on sale at Home Depot. I too was thinking about the Jack, from what I heard it can take a car 5 ft off the ground and they plug into a wall socket.
I have them for my 996 and they are incredible. With the lack of center lift points, I wouldnt hardly be able to get my car on 4 jack stands with my narrow single car garage. They're safe and fast, can get good height for exhaust or engine work. I could see how these would be useful even if you have a 2 post, as positioning the pads on those for lowered cars can be a pain.
They just slide right under, I've have the 5k models and the jack pads hit the lift points at the very outer range of adjustment.
Can't say enough good things about them, wish I had them when I was constantly fighting my c5 Corvette onto jackstands.
I have a 7k arriving today - hopefully. Been delayed due to the weather.
While they will not commit over the phone, it should work with the 996 based on some measurements they gave me. I also have several vehicles that I want to lift. BTW, Quick Jack will match the lowest advertised price if you have a problem with inventory. I also asked them to include an accessory I wanted in the deal
They also noted that the improved models (3" higher) would be released this summer at a higher price and these will be discontinued. So, we will either see some deeper discounts, or stock will quickly diminish.
Majicb
7k model may mot fit under a lowered car. You also need a little bit of clearance to prime the hydraulics. My 5k works on all of my vehicles. Highlander is the heaviest at ~4500 lbs.
I really like my QuickJack. I've got the 5K model and it works great for my 996. Only caution is that if you raise it up to the first level it can be a bit precarious if you use them in the direction as shown in the photos from uscarrera. The QuickJack when lifting moves the car forward several inches so at the low setting the weight of the engine is behind the pivot point. I could actually lift the front end up and watch the rear of the car drop - the front of the QuickJack came off the ground (I did have the front wheels off with caused the imbalance). I just raised the QuickJack to the higher setting point and it was all good. I'll turn mine around next time I use them to keep the weight of the engine over the pivot point instead of behind it. I also used it when working on my Tacoma and the only issues was some hydraulic fluid pushed out when I had it fully extended. When I'm not using them I just push them together and leave them under my 996.
I have the QuickJack BL-5000SLX.
I bought mine after my 911 shifted on my jackstands on the first side when raising the second side.
I bought a used QuickJack BL-5000 that didn't fit under my 911 lift points.
I was able to purchase new BL-5000SLX frames which work great with the used power unit.( I saved some money, but not much)
I can jack up 2 vehicles now, although I have never used the non-SLX 5000 frames.
They're stored in case I ever need them, or find a buyer for them.
The non-SLX frames would work for my Mustang and my Honda Odyssey.
The 5000 is several inches too short to reach both the jack points.
The 5000SLX is longer and fits the jack points.
The 5000 works for almost any other car...at least ones that have pinch points the entire length.
It was suggested that I try the 5000 frames going side to side instead of length-wise.
But I'd already ordered the 5000SLX frames, so I never tried it.
I used the hoses off the 5000 frames, but have considered getting 2 extras so I could easily use the extra frames on the Mustang.
Somedays I think I'll do that, and some days I wish the extra frames were out of my way.(Although they're not really in my way, but kind of an eye sore behind my woodshop/storage shed in the backyard)
According to QuickJack the 7000SLX only lifts 1/2" higher than the 5000SLX. (17.5" vs 18")
But when you add the 3" blocks the difference is 19" vs 21.5" ???????
I've been toying with buying the SUV extenders for additional height.(which I think is needed to pull the transmission)
But I also have a bunch of 2x10" lumber from ramps that I used for the car ministry when we were doing free oil changes.
I was thinking about making my own SUV extenders by cutting the 2x10s to fit inside the QuickJack.
It would be nice to be able to jack the 996 up high enough to pull a tranny.
I'd probably need another 6 or 7 inches though.
The SUV extenders from QuickJack add 7.2"...
I have a QuickJack 5000slx (costco) and it works great. Stored under car when not in use. Less space needed around the car to setup than with jack/jackstands, which was critical for me.
But it does take some time to setup, which sometimes makes me think about something I could just drive over and leave in place. Like this one:
https://www.twinbusch.com/product_in...?products_id=8
Any experience?
The checkered board RV mats are my garage floor coverings they are there all the time, good eye that is my 996 PTS Tangerine Orange car in Hurricane colors.
I only have a 1 car garage so no room to work on the car in the garage. I lift it in the driveway when I need to work on it. Love the lifts. Portable so I bring to my ex when my son needs to work on his car.
Ok excellent and the Tangerine Orange looks beautiful. The reason I ask is I have RaceDeck and was looking at using a horse stall mat to keep it from gouging the flooring.
If someone would invent an adaptor to turn my quick jacks into full platforms (like a 4 post hoist), so they could be used for alignment work, it would be brilliant.
I also have the 5000slx. I love them.
They also work for my Mazda3 and Toyota.
I have a VERY small one car garage, and I couldn't get a jack beside the car for any other solution, but with these, I can work in the garage.
I pulled the transmission with the 2" and 3" blocks stacked. I did have to maneuver the transmission on/off the jack onto a low profile cart while under the car. It sounds alot worse than it was. The SUV posts might be better.
They take some time to setup, but far less than jack stands.
Our liftbar system with 2 jacks and 8 jackstands takes some time and work to get the vehicle up and down but we have a 24' wide garage so plenty of room, they probably give the best underbody access, are real easy to store, lifts all our vehicles, and probably the safest when lifted tied with giant 4 post lifts.
Ours were about the same price as quickjacks and if you raise a vehicle every three months or longer they are a good choice.
As a variant of 996.2's method, I use the Rennstands, (ETA version vs. the Safejack version). I can have a car in the air in just a few minutes and it all packs away compactly in the wooden framed boxes they're shipped in. No affiliation, but I'm a definite fan.
ETAMFG.COM - Home
To 996.2 - With the lift bars you place the jack in the center, but that is not where the jack points are for the car. Is there any concern with loading the wrong section of the car when lifting from the center?
These Quick Jack system have always given me the creeps. Looks like it would collapse. I guess if I were to do it, I'll get a traditional lift. I've thought about MaxJack systems.
https://www.maxjax.com/
I use liftbars. I place the jack off center, towards the engine. If jacked directly in the middle, the front wheels will lift well ahead of back and will be off balanced.
Interesting you feel that way. Personally, I'm more creeped out by the MaxJax that relies on a few small inserts into concrete of unknown density and strength (althought have never heard of anyone having issues). With my QuickJack, I can place a jackstand under it for extra security. It's one of the main reasons I went with QuickJacks.
I was optimistically cautious.
I kept thinking about getting the BL-500SLX.
Then I helped a fellow Rennlister assemble his and saw how well they were built.
I really wanted one then...but held off.
Then while jacking up the second side of my car in order to install the UAOS, the two jack stands on the far side shifted and my car fell off one of the jack stands.
Small crack in the side skirt, and some serious calming down required!
re-jacked up the car and proceeded with the UAOS install.
I decided I was going to buy a QuickJack ASAP.
Luckily I found a used on on Craigslist and I ended up saving myself some $$$.
I'm glad I have it now!
I had something similar happen to me while trying to raise my old Corvette onto 4 jackstands in a small garage which prompted me to look into the quick jacks.
My brother in law was in a store here in Canada and saw a new set of quick jacks being sold for $430 Canadian as the store manager just wanted to get rid of them. Have used them a number of times since and have been incredibly pleased with them. Very good design and when it drops down onto the stops I have no concerns about their strength.
Jeez that sucks. I had my Touareg up on a floor jack and when placing the jack stands, one of the floor jack casters broke and tumbled 90 degrees under the car. Luckily, all that happened was I took a floor jack handle across my forearms.
I always jack the car up with the tires on, place stacks of 2x8s under the tires as I walk it up to desired height not letting either side get too much higher than the other, if I can do the work with tires on, it stays like that, if tires have to come off raise car off 2x8s couple inches to get stands under. Leave 2x8s under brake discs if possible.
This prevents having to worry about the low side of the car falling off the jack stand while you jack the other side to get to desired height as once the car is on the 2x8s, you only need to raise each side a couple inches to get the jacks under.
I don�t like working under the car with jack stands passed 1/2 extended, when need the car higher for big jobs, I place pavers under the jack stands to raise their height without having to extend the jack stand support past 1/2 way extended.
IMO, the only benefit to the quick jack for me would be taking less time to get the car in the air, but for quick work with tires on, like oil change, getting the car on 4 sets of 2x8s is literally 5 min.
That said, if you have a space constraint, this seems like a great way to go.
If I�m spending money - it�s going to be on a 2 post...
Max Jax and Quick Jack are both made by Bendpak aren't they? They both seem like good options by a reputable company. The last time I swapped wheels on my Audi I swore I was going to get something like this, still haven't and time is approaching to swap again.
The liftbar applies force to factory jack points without any problems. If jack is placed at bar center the car will not rise because of the rear weight bias. Jack must be moved surprisingly far towards rear of vehicle, and we're experimenting to find ideal jack location. In future months will post more information as we increase safety and speed of liftbar system.
Just an update as I got the 7000 set up and running last evening. I like it. Fits the 996. Also fits a Miata NC which I was concerned about. So this model has the versatility I needed.
This thing is built solid. Surprised a bit how sturdy. I dont think you can push the car off - I tried, but just a little
Clear instructions. As mentioned by others, I really love that I can raise a car without moving the car next to it to access with a floor jack. I would have no reservations with leaving a car up on this for an extended period which I am inclined to do since projects take me twice as long as alot of you
The disconnect fitting on the hoses seem very well built, several connects/disconnects so far and not so much as a drip of fluid.
Plenty high for me and the type of projects I get into. Although I have never lowered an engine from the 996 so I cant speak to that. Maybe several inches higher than the largest stands I have.
Negatives - I am not the youngest forum member, so these are on the heavy side to move around and get set up, hopefully a bit easier as I get a system down. Its pretty big - need to figure out a storage spot for the frames, and then you got the hydraulic unit and hoses. Now the frames are pushed up against the wall on their sides.
I didnt have much growing and am frugal by nature. Did I NEED one of these, probably not. Got along fine with good floor jack and assortment of stands. But I think its a pretty good luxury item for a shadetree like me at a fair price and no need to modify half your garage. If you have a single car garage and like to work indoors, this could be the ticket.
Keep my frames stored under the vehicle, and everything else in the original box on a shelf. Might need to change that after I wrap up my suspension install though.
Here's a trick for moving them around - I have an old creeper that rotted out, but the frame and wheels were fine. I use it to "dolly" the jacks around. It's very easy to lift one end of the jack about 3" and then slide the creeper underneath it. Rolling it around is fun!
On the leaving the car up for a long time - as long as you have the locks set, you can leave it up forever! Caution: NEVER disconnect a hydraulic line while the car is jacked up! yes, I did that, and it was almost impossible to push the connector back together because of the pressure in the system.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sasilverbullet
Caution: NEVER disconnect a hydraulic line while the car is jacked up! yes, I did that, and it was almost impossible to push the connector back together because of the pressure in the system.
you�re supposed to raise it past the first or second stop, lower it down against it, and then keep going until the lines are clear and you can disconnect the hydraulics and leave it up indefinitely. Don�t forget to open the vent on the pump. Then simply plug them back in pump it back it up. Works great.
As 2002C2 said - remember to lower so firmly on mechanical stop and then continue to press the lower button for a few seconds more. This reduces the pressure in the lines so disconnecting/reconnecting isn't an issue. You'll know as the connectors won't pop off so forcibly. Be sure to keep the vent on the pump open as well.
Just replaced the fuel pump and sender last week by sitting in the front trunk well was good to get back under the green car to do an oil change and filter, I love my Quick Jack
Rich
Hello all, just ordered a set of the 5000slx from Costco (thanks to whoever posted the sale link). Does it matter which direction the car sits on the ramps? I see above the green car (uscarrera) vs. the red car (Quaz) looks like you can lift the car from either direction. Does the weight of the motor matter? Stability wise? I was just curious. Thanks in advance.
The car is very stable on the Quick Jack when I first used it i put my wife in driver's seat and pushed hard on all four corners with no movement. The only thing to remember is depending how you face the jack car will move forward or backwards a bunch on the way up
Rich
The 5000slx work great, I got them on sale from Pelican I'll back up everyone on that..They lift the car quick and safe. If concerned with safety of them once lifted, I always put a small set of jack stands inside them so they cannot come down, even though they have a ratcheting safety bar.
I have a commercial truck repair shop and am spoiled, that I used my 18K two post when I did my engine swap on my 997. This jack could not lift enough for that. The clutch and trans pull would be a little tight. When I used the big two post, I was a little creative and jacked the car up in the back to swing the lift arms under the car, so that worked out. For home and hobby use, I use them on all my cars. On the 911, made strut swap nice and easy as well as a simple oil change and a nice wax, wheel cleaning as well, Why bend down when you can sit in a on a shop stool! So for me, I use them all the time. Just pull over them and use the hell out of them.
The problem I had was the couplers to hoses. You have to really tighten them so they don't leak. I put my hose ends in a vise and had to tighten the couplers tight, real tight, even using thread sealant other wise, they leak, make a mess. Also make sure fitting on piston end face up so they don't hit the frame when extended as the manual says
Thats all!
We haven't done an engine drop yet, that is a future project. I'll have to do a lot more research, maybe 24"? It will depend in large part how high the device securing the engine/transmission is when fully retracted. A lot of people use the Harbor Freight 1000 lb hydraulic table, but it looks like that has an 11" minimum height which means the entire car has to be lifted an extra 11 inches. If a plate could be fabricated to connect a low profile trolley jack to the engine/transmission that would be much lower than the table and don't have to purchase and store another heavy tool.
Mine are orientated like USCarrera's.
I haven't experienced any issues with either 996 C2 or C4s.
I've done following with 996 C2 and C4s: wheel changes, coilover installs, transmission mount installs, brakes, suspension R&R, and flood prevention.
(Gave me extra height during possible flood conditions which were luckily not necessary)
Note: When power went out and my generator died, my car was stuck in the air for 3 days.
I need 22" of clearance to drop my engine using a low profile floor jack with a cross beam attachment from Harbor Freight (and a separate jack under the transmission). First time the car was on jack stands. Second time around I used the Quickjack with both sets of blocks and my home brew lift pucks (see post #23
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ng-puck-2.html
).
I might try to fabricate a metal plate that would hold both the engine and transmission, and bolt it to a low profile trolley jack. Longitudinal (fore and aft) stability seems like it would be ok, but lateral (side to side) might have to add outrigger wheels to the jack. If made with sufficient thick steel I think plate and outriggers would be multiples of the strength needed.
Take a look at the jacking plate that Chris drew:
http://pullig.dyndns.org/files/EM_plate.pdf
It has the dimensions of the Porsche Jacking Plate
You might want to use it as a starting point.
I see a lot of pics with the QJ just stored flat on the floor and pushed together to allow parking over it. I don't have a garage, so my greatest concern about getting one is that I'll be dragging it in and out of a storage shed. Do any other QuickJack fans have this issue, is it still worth the effort?
I can tell you that the direction of the ramps can matter. I recently had my 996 on the first setting with the orientation like uscarrera. I pulled the front wheels off to clean the suspension and I could easily get the entire QuickJack to pivot on the edge nearest the rear wheels. I ran the QuickJack up the highest setting and everything was fine. I'll be turning mine around next time I use them to be like Quaz has them. I'm guessing the direction is better for front engined cars, but with the 911 you should think backwards. When you do get your QJ, make sure the hose exits near the front of the car. My 996 is a 40AE so 2WD with X51 and LSD - not sure if any of that makes it a bit heavier in the rear. Certainly having the front wheels off the car made a difference.
What I found works best is to orient the yellow sticker towards the end of the car with the engine. So for our cars I have the "reversed". The car will move about a foot towards the rear, so make sure you have enough clearance behind the car.
There used to be a bulletin or something on the quickjack site in the past about this, and orienting them differently for rear engined cars, but it’s gone now.
Hey everyone, thanks for all this information. A question - my garage floor is not very smooth. Will this affect the operation of the QuickJack?
For those in Canada, Crappy Tire carries the 5000SLX:
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/q...-2997199p.html
while CostCo carries the 7000SLX:
https://www.costco.ca/quickjack-bl-7...100410530.html
Thanks
jb
On sale for $956 if not already mentioned here. I just bought the 5000SLX to use with my four post lift. Much cheaper than the rolling bridge jack that some use with their lifts.
https://www.quickjack.com/refurbished/
I just saw a story of C8s falling off lifts due to the engine placement and technicians falling back into the engine being in the front of the car. I thought of this thread and how with these jacks the thinking has to be backwards if I am understanding it right, with the engines in the rear.
Good to see the 7000 fits the 996. I had hoped it would but don't yet own one to measure with. I bought the 7000, extensions, SUV adapters, and pinch weld adapters to hopefully be able to fit all current vehicles (Volt, Suburban, Atlas) and future as well (still looking for the right 996, 997, or 991). The weight of the Atlas and Suburban dictated the 7000 vs 5000, but dimensionally they are pretty similar.
As for build quality these seem great. Have used them on the Volt and the Atlas so far. Atlas lift points were at the very limit of the extensions, but once in place and up in the air it was very stable, and it lifted very high too (at least 22" clearance).
The 5000 SLX, as also showed by others will lift all these cars, as well as a 2019 Base Macan (and other vehicles with similar wheelbase/chassis lift points. I have not found a difference in stability when lifting forward or backwards.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
