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YOUR RESEARCHWhat is "warmed up"?
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Check oil level
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Suggestion
Couldn't tell you if my F30 has any gauges either, don't ever look at them...its a god damn commuter car, I get in and go cause...like a mini cooper, its just a normal car meant to get you from a to b and run for 200K
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Suggestion · Original poster
My car is a bone stock 03 C2 running DT-40 5W-40, just street use.
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Suggestion
Couldn't tell you if my F30 has any gauges either, don't ever look at them...its a god damn commuter car, I get in and go cause...like a mini cooper, its just a normal car meant to get you from a to b and run for 200K
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At what temp is oil for our cars considered "warmed up" where we can haul butt?
My car is a bone stock 03 C2 running DT-40 5W-40, just street use.
Chime in folks...
Agree, but what temp is that? I checked it today after it got a little below the 2 bar mark, it was 196 F. I'm working on a custom PID for my OBDLINK LX to read the value, but I need to know the range before I program it in.
I'll let you know when my car is out and about with full data logging of both oil temp and pressure. Coolant temp will be logged as well to see the delta at which the oil warms compared to coolant.
Couple weeks away...
I did a run with a Durametric attached once, and the oil temp was at 180 degrees surprisingly quickly, about the same time as the water temperature. It seems that the water/oil heat exchanger works well. I still don't push it beyond 5k until I've driven for a good 15 minutes.
Good God...really? Drive it until the water temp shows 180, then drive it for another 15 minutes below 3000 RPM. I'm trying to think of what other car out there that people are driving around where they worry about water vs oil temp. Oh wait...none. I have a Mini Cooper. It has no temp gauge. You just get in it and drive off. Just get in your car and drive off. Be gentle at first but then if you really want to get into it....just do it.
15 minutes he says, eff that... I'll stick with, I don't know, actual feedback from the car... If you don't give a **** about the question, what makes you poke your head in to compare a 911 to a mini effin cooper...
Couldn't tell you if my F30 has any gauges either, don't ever look at them...its a god damn commuter car, I get in and go cause...like a mini cooper, its just a normal car meant to get you from a to b and run for 200K
Certainly not the kid down the street driving the Honda car with the obnoxious 'juice can' muffler. He just jumps in, revs the #$%^ out of it and blasts down the road.
I was not comparing a 911 to a Mini Cooper. My point was that people worry about the strangest things with our 996, like when does the oil temperature warm up as compared to the coolant temperature. C'mon, get in the car and drive it gently until it is up to temperature on the coolant gauge, just like you would do for any other car/truck on the planet. If you want to be more completely accurate, Durametric can read, display and log the oil temperature. Hook it up and log the oil vs coolant temp over time, then you will know accurately how long it takes to warm up the oil. Be darn sure to include factors such as ambient temperature (think starting at -10 degrees vs 90 degrees) and engine load (flat surfaces vs climbing mountain roads).
Since there is no OT gauge in the car but there is WT, it makes perfect sense to want to be able to guesstimate OT based off displayed WT and as a result have a good indication the oil has reached whatever you deem to be operating temp.
Seems pretty simple. A question doesn’t have to be a worry dude.
My 997.2 has both gauges, oil and coolant temp, and I can tell you from watching that the coolant temp reaches operating temp several minutes quicker than the oil temp. Yes it's a 9a1 engine and not a M96.....
I start the 996 in the morning, let it idle in the driveway while I finish getting ready. I cruise out of the neighborhood in 2nd, sometimes even 1st if its cold out, used to hate that long 1st gear, now I understand and love it. Goal is to get the coolant temp to 100* before I pass 4000rpm. Been doing this since I've had it, just over 3 years now. about to hit 205k on the original engine. Works for me. I wail on her shortly after this, merging then highway on ramp pull thru 3rd and 4th.
Glad that works for you even though it runs counter to most of the current recommendations. I start up, immediately drive away, stay under 3k rpm until coolant reaches 180, then still don't go crazy for at least another 5+ minutes.
Well, I only live 10 miles from work, and 1/2 mile from the highway onramp. Modification was necessary. If I waited 5+ miles to accelerate, I'd be the slowest one on the road lol. It may help that I live at the beach, coldest temps we see are in the 20s maybe, and only off and on for a few weeks. Frost in the morning, 70s in the afternoon nowadays. She warms up quickly.
Nice stable you have there.. FSI 4.0.. *drool*
If this is the case, I believe you�re required to get up earlier, drive around until you reach water temp, and only then should you attempt the on-ramp.
I get in my 996 , fire it up, hit the garage door opener and drive out , roll through the neighborhood peacefully, once out of the neighborhood I take it to 6k in 2nd gear (just to roll out the big particles of silicon that have came loose between the piston and cylinder wall while there is still enough clearance) under 1/4 throttle, then drive normally for a bit longer before beating the p**s out of it...(180k miles, no symptoms....yet)..
I already get up at 0430 or 0530 depending on what time we start surgeries for the day.. takes some time to get these old creaky bones moving..
I do have about 1/2 mile to get out of the neighborhood, so her juices are flowing well before she clears her throat. I listen to the car, watch oil pressure in addition to the coolant temp. And always check oil level when starting. She's happy. No abuse here.
Or, for you OCD folks, instead of water temp watch your oil pressure gauge. When cold it will be up near 5 bar. As the oil heats up it will drop as you are driving (ie; steady down the road, not hammering the throttle). Or, just drive it like any other car. I don't hammer the throttle on anything with a cold engine, even rentals!
Morning drive to work there's about a 10 minute stretch of city roads before hitting the interstate, by then water temps are also at median so it's the perfect time to open it up on the on ramp.
It's going to be a nuanced question, with various answers, but end of the day a short trip around the neighborhood and oil will be pretty well warmed up. How "warm" you want it to be after that is up to you.
I hate to tell you how to drive your car, but cold start idling is not good for these engines. Too many bore scoring stories related to cold start and lack of oil in the cylinder bores. Maybe drive around for 5 extra mins beforehand.
This is exactly what the owners manual in my e46 M3 said, don't idle just drive and the gauge cluster had lights that would go out when the car was up to temp. Wish we had something like this but I usually just get in and drive about five or six miles under 3k before getting on it.
Agree with the comment about ~2 bar for the oil pressure. That seems to be when the oil is actually warmed up. I'll keep mine around 3K (excruciating) until coolant temp is 180. After that I'll let it go to 4k-ish. I don't get on it hard until the oil pressure gets close to 2 bar.
I haven't looked at what temp that actually is with the Durametric. The pressure has been a good enough indicator for me.
Amazing, old fashioned thinking. In fact idling a cold car is about the worst thing you can do to your engine. you want to get oil everywhere as soon as possible. You get more wear in your engine from starting and idling a cold car than from driving thousands of miles. You are essential oil starved and the sooner you get the oil everywhere it needs to be the better. Idling it while your drink your coffee is funny because people do it who think they are doing a good thing when in fact it is the opposite. Ask Porsche, they will tell you the same thing.
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