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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHPossible first Porsche purchase in Baltimore
Leading reported evidence
Replace nor the clutch, aos, or rms seal
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
There is no mention of the IMS bearing being being replaced nor the clutch, AOS, or RMS seal.
Leading evidence: 'Replace nor the clutch, aos, or rms seal' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check camshaft deviations' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Since you are looking at a cab, you definitely should include a full check of the roof fit & hydraulics in the PPI.
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Suggestion
Would really recommend finding one with full leather.
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Suggestion
There used to be a guy that sold cluster repair services on eBay, this issue was really common among the same area Audi's and it was a few hundred bucks to send off and get fixed.
Replace hoses and refill the hydraulic tubes and about $250
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported fixes
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Unsuccessful attempts
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Suggestion
I spent about $900 at the dealer for them to function/leak check it, replace hoses and refill the hydraulic tubes AND about $250 for an upholstery shop to reattach a loose roof cable.
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Suggestion
I would be super interested in hearing the car run, particularly listening for any ticking or other untoward noises which may indicate bore scoring, see if they will send you a video clip of the car running at idle and revving.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
43 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
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Generation: 20261026T074343Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Thanks for admitting me to Rennlist. I'm aware of the IMS, bore scoring, AOS issues with 996, so no need to discuss those, but any thoughts on this car?
https://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto...112149323.html
Anyone know the dealer? Outside of an indy PPI, any questions I should be asking the seller particualary about the turn signal issue or display screen issues? Thanks in advance.
It looks like a fair deal.....pixilation on the HVAC display is a 15 minute job to fix the display but the instrument cluster is more challenging. I have only done the former but others on this forum have done the instrument cluster (Jim and his wife come to mind).
Turn signal is also one many members have fixed....if these are the only issues, it would not scare me I'd otherwise the car looks well cared for.
It looks like a decent deal if a PPI checks out. There used to be a guy that sold cluster repair services on eBay, this issue was really common among the same area Audi's and it was a few hundred bucks to send off and get fixed. It looks okay but I would ask for a close up of the convertible window, the plastic ones have a tendency to come unglued and separate from the top.
Make sure you get a good PPI that includes examining the cylinder bores. There is no mention of the IMS bearing being being replaced nor the clutch, AOS, or RMS seal. The RMS seals were really bad about oil leaks early in the 996 generation. You also need to check for camshaft deviations. The 5 chain engines have solenoid/chain adjusters as well as the chain guide pads that wear out on each bank.
I'm paraphrasing Jake Raby - "The cheapest Porsche you purchase is the most expensive to own"
Think about it.
Looks like a fair price if the IMS was done and everything else checks out.
FWIW, I bought a 2000 C4 Cab in similar condition w/the IMS done and 90k miles on it for $15k. No "major" issues but (since I don't do my own work) it cost me $3k to sort out the few things that were "wrong" w/it. So, total cost to me (excluding tax/reg/etc) was $18k.
Since you are looking at a cab, you definitely should include a full check of the roof fit & hydraulics in the PPI. I spent about $900 at the dealer for them to function/leak check it, replace hoses and refill the hydraulic tubes AND about $250 for an upholstery shop to reattach a loose roof cable. Another $700 went to replacing the shroud that covers popup rollover bars when the roof is down (the plastic mounting points on 1 side were broken). The other $1150 went to finding/diagnosing a CLS (central locking system problem) and to replacing the window regulator in the driver's side door.
The reason I am recounting this is to point out the obvious, which is the Porsches are EXPENSIVE to fix and, if you have been a regular reader of this forum, you know how easily your beloved purchase can turn into a HUGE money pit. My car had few problems but still cost me 20% of the purchase price to fix it to my satisfaction.
So, caveat emptor and make sure that you have at least $3-5k (the estimated cost of an IMS replacement) on hand for unexpected expenses!
Thanks for the advice. I had a 1968 GTO before this, so I get the "money pit". I'm sort of hoping these cars are less of a money pit, but maybe its wishful thinking. I've ordered a comprehensive PPI, so hopefully all issues will be known going into the purchase, but I do appreciate your comments on cost just to get the car road worthy.
Buy this one:
https://cvluxurycars.com/1999-porsch...ry-nice-20995/
Car is currently in MD and is being sold by one of the more knowledgeable and HONEST sellers out there. It's not a cab and it's a bit more expensive but chances are, at this price, you can drive it a long time and suffer little or no depreciation.
Would really recommend finding one with full leather. It makes a really big difference when you’re sitting inside and is rarely more expensive on the secondary market. I just did an exhaustive search and bought my 996 last week and it feels so much more upgraded with leather everywhere. You won’t regret!
Car represents very nicely, some foam blowing out of the air conditioning ducts. Definitely confirm the smooth operation of the convertible top, and the condition of the plastic rear window. I would be super interested in hearing the car run, particularly listening for any ticking or other untoward noises which may indicate bore scoring, see if they will send you a video clip of the car running at idle and revving. Hopefully, you PRE-purchase PPI will disclose any such issues, as well as the condition of the clutch/RMS/IMS bearing. Make sure they pull the oil filter and look for metal debris in the filter's folds. Best of luck with this car, price is nice and low, perhaps suspiciously so.
Car is going in for indy shop PPI on Monday. Here is stuff I want them to look at above the usual tire kicking things:
Convertible window
cylinder bores.
IMS bearing
clutch,
AOS
RMS seal.
Camshaft deviations.
Convertible top operation
Road test
Am I missing any 996 specific trouble spots?
At 90k miles you're coming up on a couple of big ticket maintenance items, among them changing fluids in rear & front differentials, automatic transmission service, etc. I spent $1k on those two items alone on my -99 C4 Cab that I just bought this past spring. I'd also echo the point made earlier about checking out the soft top carefully as it is a very expensive item to fix. Mine was in great shape and that was one of the key reasons I bought it.
I think this transaction might not happen for reasons i�ll let the OP detail when its official (we are friends). Nothing about the car�s mechanical condition, i don�t want to leave that impression.
If this transaction doesn�t happen, the near miss was beneficial in that the OP has learned a great amount of info which will benefit him in his continued quest for a nice 996 cab 6 speed.
He�s not the roller/rebuild type of 996 buyer and i cant push him off cabs and consider coupes. He wants something to enjoy in whatever nice weather Chicago gets for a few years and then move on. Not unwilling to pay up for the �right car� but also hoping to find the proverbial �diamond in the rough�. With 996s though its �be careful what you wish for�.
I also personal think you should drive any car you plan on buying, especially a sports car, and even more so your 1st 996, before buying it. Just my $.02
I appreciate the note. I've been reading up on the dreaded 100k mile tune-up. I'm budgeting accordingly. Maybe I should open up the search to a targa top? I know there are not a lot of them, but its a nice hybrid between coupe and cab.
I'm really just looking for toy car--nothing special with regards to performance or lots of options. I hear what you're saying on buying a full rebuild is more $ upfront, but cheaper in terms of fewer headaches and maintenance/repair down the line.
There are no guarantees with high performance machines, even the best rebuilds can fail. Statistically less likely but i have a saying...risk finds you! If you can�t tolerate the risk financially and/or mentally don�t play the game.
Or a 2002 Toyota MR2 (pre hard top turbo).
Mine has lasted over 18 yrs w/just routine oil/filter changes, a couple of batteries and 1 set of tires still on the car w/o ANY mechanical repairs or concerns whatsoever.
I'm curious. Did you go through with the full PPI on this one?
Also, don't let anyone talk you out of a cab if that's what you want. I'm the opposite. Just not a convertible guy & I decided I wanted a coupe but I have a friend who is a convertible guy and I totally understand. You'll regret not buying the cab if that's what you like.
didn�t make it to the PPI stage. Title wasn�t as clean as I wanted since I am out of state buyer with dmv closed for months. Seller was a solid guy and sent back my deposit.
I look at this as a toy car�so I only drive when I want to (ie sunny days)
i don�t think the current owner ever registered the vehicle and it would be a bigger hassle to register it in Illinois than he was willing to deal with.
Thanks!
I've often thought about selling it but, each time I do that, I decide against it. It's such a cheap, trouble free and FUN car to drive, there's really no reason to do that. It is admittedly under powered (which you only notice on the open road) but it truly handles like a go-cart in the back roads where I enjoy driving it most.
Not as fast as my 2000 C4 Cab but no worries about the IMS, AOS, timing chain or whatever might cause the engine to blow up but then again there's nothing else quite like driving a 911.
Here's a "stock" photo of the car; I'm too lazy to go out and take/post pics of mine but it looks exactly the same; all stock except for an aftermarket cone air filter that the owner before me put in over 15 yrs ago. I sometimes put it my single stall garage but it use that stall for my gym equipment so I usually store it in my side yard on a Battery Tender under a Covercraft outdoor Weathershield cover.
Still looks like new and starts up w/o hesitation every time.
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