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YOUR RESEARCHSaw some more purchase candidates today.
Leading reported evidence
Replace along
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Found leaking water pump and oil cooler so replaced both along with Clutch, all fluids and belt.
Leading evidence: 'Replace along' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'materially different' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust ment' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Just be realistic that in used cars, things are always wearing out.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Some of my complaints are cosmetic, some are feelings that the car has been used hard and put away wet.
Check rear wheel balance and true as tingles through the
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Suggestion
You might need to check rear wheel balance and true as tingles through the but or down the leg are normally rear wheels out of balance or old age for the driver!
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Suggestion
At this point I have them worked out via lubing, taping and replacing certain parts but getting the top to quiet down wasn't easy (80K miles on mine) - not very expensive as I did it myself but if you are going to depend on dealers, the labor could get pricey.
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Suggestion
I don't understand why - assuming you agree to purchase something as-is from the dealer - you assume the dealer would have some legal responsibility to replace the windshield.
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materially different
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Identified cause
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Suspected cause
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Suspected cause
If the dealer was selling you something sight-unseen and it turned out to be materially different from how it was described, that would be one thing - but if you agree to purchase something as-is, the seller has no obligation to make improvements unless those are stipulated as part of the transaction.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
53 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
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Generation: 20261026T205155Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Found a silver 04 gen 2 black interior on eBay so I ran out to look at it. It had been painted on BOTH sides, as you could see in the terrible tape marks in both door wells. Also worth mentioning was the 02 Turbo with Factory GT2 Kit somebody had carbon fibered to death. Outside stunning metallic sepia but dark, and interior a grey disaster. Who the F does this?!!!!
Red car still in contention but I'm gonna look at a lot of cars I've decided. Picked up the 996 Essential Guide on Amazon in the meantime and it's awesome.
Going through the same chaos. I have recently driven four 99s...two were too scruffy to really consider but I just wanted the drive. Two I drove today were very respectable. Both were manuals and it felt great moving through the gears...but my biggest surprise was a 2000 cab (built in 99) with tiptronic...I really like it. I wanted to compare tip on a 3.4 to my experience in my 06 S. I found this 3.4 tip just as nice and the mapping was very aggressive, even in Drive. I also used it in full manual and I found it very hard to say I'd take the manual over it. 40k miles, two owners, serviced by Porsche all the way. Just not sure about a cab, though the top was in good shape and a hard top is available from a friend. On the other hand the same seller has a very nice 2002 turbo with 100k miles, in very nice condition and I can get it for under $35k. But I don't really need that horsepower and speed in LA...even at a good price. I'm flying up to SF tomorrow morning to look at a coupe. I'll either like it and buy it and drive it home, or I'll fly back and have spent $700 in air fare for a short education. And that may have me looking again at the cab...which has been the big surprise so far.
He's back!
How was the cab top as far as rattles/noises? I love my cab, although I have a manual. My cab top has been the source of many rattles. At this point I have them worked out via lubing, taping and replacing certain parts but getting the top to quiet down wasn't easy (80K miles on mine) - not very expensive as I did it myself but if you are going to depend on dealers, the labor could get pricey.
Thats good to hear about the Tip. The manual in the City (think SF hills) can be hard with lots of stalling.
The in SF was a disaster and isn't worth the breath to say more. The cab I drove yesterday was such a surprise that I'm going to drive it again tomorrow just to see if it still gets a tingle going up and down my leg. As for rattles...the coupe today had tons more rattles than the cab...the cab only had some over shudder and noise when I took it intentionally over a piece of road garunteed to take your teeth out. The big thing there was no suspension noise and no noise from the roof.
If condition and history are as import as I feel they are than I feel this cab could well be the car. Talked with another cab owner tonight just to get their feelings about things...and I could do this...especially if I get a deal on the hard top. But then do I really need that in Southern California? I do believe that using the top, putting it up and down so that all the motors get used regularly and all the joints and fittings and rubber get exercised, is the way to keep it healthy...and to park it if I'm not driving it, with the top up.
Any other thoughts?
You might need to check rear wheel balance and true as tingles through the but or down the leg are normally rear wheels out of balance or old age for the driver!
O_Sr
I was looking at two cars at RAC Performance in your area...I don't know them except from their web site. We were close on price but I didn't want to spend three days driving back to LA (or flying back empty handed as is the case with my trip to Frisco), didn't want to buy the car without having driven it and then paid to ship it to Los Angeles only to discover it wasn't what I expected. But if you are in that area it might be worth looking at their cars.
There is a nicely modded (GT2 nose) 2004 TT cab in Houston for $35k. A nice 2005 C4S Cab in Arizona at $30k. Both silver. Do not know if they are still available.
The coup I drove in SF yesterday had more rattles than in any other Porsche I've ever owned or driven. Disaster. On the other hand, the cab I drove yesterday and again today, is quieter than my prior coupes, 996 and 997S.
I bought a 2000 996 cab last December in Visalia, CA. It had 40k original miles and had been sitting in a garage with minimal use and a small oil leak in rear-(IMS or RMS)?. Owner was honest and straight forward and the car was a nice combo with Forest Green and Savannah beige full leather-stick. Top is original and like new.
I had a PPI done at Bakersfield Porsche dealer and they stated that leak did exist and it had a few other small problems but appeared solid and running great. I paid $17k for it and after a few months did the IMS replacement-old one was fine-and leaking RMS. Found leaking water pump and oil cooler so replaced both along with Clutch, all fluids and belt. I have since replaced front Brakes and Hawk plus pads and added 4 new Michelin PS tires.
After 13 months of ownership it now has 43.6 k miles and with about $22+k in it-I'm enjoying it immensely. Wonderful quick and quiet car. Only rattles were the two small plastic pcs in top connector that I double faced tape secured-no more rattles.
These are amazing cars for the money. Take your time and find the right car-they are out there. Enjoy.
The 04 red Is calling my name but there's gotta be more 996 out there less than $20k. If I bought it that would be 7 in a row from my high line car lot guy. I'll get it looked at but he's never sold me a mechanically bad car. It's seats are not bad. Typical interior wear on replaceable items. This will be my only car and I drive to the coffee shop and to my parents' and the market and not a whole lot more. 7000 miles a year. I want to lightweight the interior eventually and get a nicer drivers racing seat.
If you go the cab route, I would not worry about getting a hard top for it given that you are in LA. I'm in much colder/rainier SF and have never put my hard top on the car. Don't really see a need for it. Maybe if you lived somewhere where it snowed but not needed in LA. It is great to be able to put the soft top down though.
The Porsche mechanic (18yrs at Porsche) says BUY IT. Plan on clutch, and RMS while we are in there eventually. Gotta get the wheel situation sorted....looking for interior parts, and wheels. My gut says drive the **** out of it and enjoy it, don't be a maniac about every last cosmetic thing.
Enabler!
I keep friends like you.
There will be a baby seat in the back, can't go full-maniac anyhow. He will, at some point throw handfuls of goldfish at me while driving NOT that he can eat in my car, but at least my wife can't drive a stick.
Don't let the paralysis of analysis turn you off to going with the best you can find at the time you want to buy. I just bought a 99 cab this morning, 45k miles, two owners, both serviced it exclusively at the same Porsche dealer.
I looked at and drove lots of other cars, I just didn't find anything in the sub 20s that didn't need enough work to put it above 20 before I'd want to drive it. However at 20 and just slightly above, I found some very very good examples. I think most would agree hat the bottom has been hit in the 996 market and prices are climbing nicely for good cars. Just be realistic that in used cars, things are always wearing out. This is my first soft top since my 64 Corvette...back in 1964. I pick my cab us late Tuesday or early Wednesday and will post pics then. Hope you'll get what you want and let us see it.
That's how I feel. Interiors can be replaced, and I may wrap it any way, but a solid engine is the only reason I will sign the papers. I posted photos in a separate thread and didn't want to cross link posts. Guards Red and saddle tan. Very simple options. Likely the stereo speakers will go as well as the exhaust.
The wheels have been chromed and there is a fair amount of curb rash on the outer edges. The tires are a little old as well...servicable but I would not do anything sustained over 100 mph. I'm finding some nice wheel tire packages on TireRack but I can't get rid of these until I decide on one of those.
Based on 996 the Essential Companion the front wheel width on these early cars can be between 7.5 and 8...but the ones at TireRack are 8.5. Just wondering when grip at the front translates into too little at the rear.
I'll post better pictures of the wheel in a day or too.
I went back and forth between manual and tip,,,drove serveral of both, and decided for a car that will be used a lot in LA traffic, the tip made better sense for me. I was also impressed with it as it was every bit as aggressive as the tip in my 997 S...right up there with the sport chronograph and better than the S in non-sport mode.
More later.
Very nice example. The prices jump up and down depending what part of the country the car is in. In Los Angeles and San Francisco that same car with half the miles would be in the low twenties.
After the bath I took getting out of the 997 I was sitting on my money for awhile and that made my wife very very happy. The return to a 996 is a long story, but I put some play money back in my pocket by selling two nice and rare Rolexes. I've got one other on the market just to have some emergency money standing by. That leaves me with just one to wear in the Porsche. Though I also have a nice vintage Omega that I wear quite a lot.
Back to Porsches...I can't say enough about how impressed I am with the 3.4 engine and the tiptronic. Each time I drove one I couldn't believe how much I liked it...so I'd go back for another drive. I did enjoy the manuals as well but driving in LA with a manual (for me) is like dancing in small closet.
I still have a touch of nagging doubt about "did I get the very best car for the very lowest price" or "should I have spent a few thousand more for that other car"...but when I think about how much I have enjoyed the driving of this car, and its service history, and the fact that the cab will be a new experience for me...so I went out and bought it a new car cover today. I just have to keep the GTI washed so my wife will think I'm still driving it.
In cars and in watches rare does not always mean valuable or collectible. The particular Rolexes I focused on are truly rare...and moderately valuable, but only a few enthusiasts collect them. And of course condition is a prime factor. In fifteen years I have only seen twelve examples of that particular reference number.
In cars, my Riviera Blue 993 was rare at the time but only became collectible over fifteen years later. It wasn't any different than any other 993 coupe, but the rareness of the color and the particular provenance of the car made it special. My new to me 2000 cab will never be rare or collectible, at least while I'm alive and on the planet. But it will be a very good car that gives great pleasure to drive and is probably more like my Omega.
Have you moved on a car yet?
The 3.4 with Tip is nice. I have a '01. It's no modern double clutch, but it's smooth, kicks down when you want it to and also stays above 4,000rpm when you want it to. It doesn't feel as fast as the 996 manual, but I have other manual cars. It's well mated to the 3.4L engine and it makes great engine sounds with it.
John what reference Rollies were they? My neighbor is the head of watch offerings for Heritage Auctions here in Dallas and NY. 40 yrs as a watch smith. He's always talking watches with me in my garage. Such a treasure trove of info on anything watch related imaginable plus he knows the market and current values.
I have the 996 guards Red C2 in my sights and asked for tires and a windshield from the dealer selling it. Should be this week. THEN start removing interior.
Great news on the 996...looking forward to seeing it. I just drove my 2000 cab home...all it needs is a minor adjust ment on the drivers door window and it will be perfect. I love the dash, the seats, and I'm finding the cab amazingly quiet. The previous owner put in an aftermarket radio so I'll go online and dig up the manual for that...and I'll use up the tires that are on it and the dealer I bought it from is looking for new wheels for me at a good price. The Rolex models are the 18k 1013, 1012 (same model with smooth bezel) and the 1018 which was the stainless steel version. Nothing fancy about them...just hours minutes and seconds...all the same family as the very popular 1016 Explorer 1...but exactly the low key kind of watch that I like.
Spreading my nets again in TX while this 996 gets a proper PPI from mechanic I know. Does a dealer have to fix a broken windshield before they sell it under the Statute of Frauds and Warranty of Merchantability as guided by the UCC? As long as it's taking to get this car back with my moneys in hand I'm thinking something smells bad despite the veteran 911 mech saying "....all you need is clutch....." and I tossed him $100 for the full meal deal. I wish to know it all. Meanwhile if I find another one that checks out, I'm feeling froggy enough to switch Coupes.
Anyone seen this bad boy? Price ok?
http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used-...ting=132473095
I don't understand why - assuming you agree to purchase something as-is from the dealer - you assume the dealer would have some legal responsibility to replace the windshield. If the dealer was selling you something sight-unseen and it turned out to be materially different from how it was described, that would be one thing - but if you agree to purchase something as-is, the seller has no obligation to make improvements unless those are stipulated as part of the transaction. That whole line of reasoning strikes me as strange... Explain? The fact that you're paying for a PPI suggests that you will know precisely what you're buying before you buy it - the dealer owes you nothing beyond that.
I suppose that if the vehicle code in Texas requires the car to be safe to operate as a condition of sale (I have no knowledge of whether or not this is true) and a broken windshield is not considered safe, PERHAPS the dealer might have some obligation to repair it. EVERY used car I've ever seen has a sticker in the window that says either []AS-IS - NO WARRANTY or []WARRANTY (details). You pays your money, you gets a car.
What a very odd thread this has turned into...
*edit* After rereading, I found this comment earlier in the thread from OP: "This will be my only car and I drive to the coffee shop and to my parents' and the market and not a whole lot more"
I'm starting to get a very serious inkling that you may not be a native Texan.
You might want to take a look at Section 2-316 of the UCC.
Also, although it sounds ominous, the Statute of Frauds basically just says that for the sale of goods with a value of $500 or more, you need it in writing to make a sale agreement enforceable.
I have to be honest, I would walk away. I don't like the condition of the bumper with the cracks and the gap by one of the side markers. I don't like the tarted up red paint accents and the hood treatment. I don't like the spoiler on the back. And I'm not a fan of the wheels. Some of my complaints are cosmetic, some are feelings that the car has been used hard and put away wet. A PPI can tell you how things look in general...but they are no promise of what is going to happen a few miles down the road. I just don't trust cars with body work that wasn't taken care of. As for the law protecting you from fraud...if you've got twenty thousand to spend on a lawyer you might even get into court...only to have a judge throw the case out. Then you can spend another twenty grand (at least) trying to get back into court. If you don't trust the buyer do buy from them. My two cents.
Not a bad price, but I'd have to do something with the cosmetics, as I think it is seriously ugly. I also get the impression of hard miles, though I have nothing to back up that impression other than cheesy stripes, sketchy pictures, and a "cop magnet" vanity plate.
That said, the PPI, service records, and accident history should tell the tale on this one. If it checks out clean and you like how it looks (or can sink a few bucks into restoring its dignity), it may not be a bad deal.
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