zbomb's confused 996

***8/6/21 Update https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ost17592625*** I was thinking about all the weird **** I've done to this car since i got it, all the cool parts, how much more fun it is than when it was stock and how its a confused machine pretending to be a track car. The reality is yes, I want it to kick *** at the track - but - if I was to dedicate it as a track only toy, I just would not get to use it enough, it gives me too much joy to be relegated to so little use and at the moment, it needs to be able to keep a MA registration and pass an inspection so I can legally drive it on the road. It needs to be civil enough so I can drive it to the roads I like to drive fast on and to the tracks in the northeast. So, full cage is out, slicks are out, carbon doors are out...etc... I have done some stuff to this car that many would probably not consider doing to their car, I wanted to put it out there for people to be able to ask questions and give feedback and for me to pass along my skewed opinions on the path I've taken with the car. I will also post updates here for those that want to follow along. For those interested - there is some history on the car in THIS thread which goes over some of the early mods I did last winter and some history from when I bought the car. Where we're at now... My goal with the car is for it to be reliable, light weight and provide the sensation I used to get from motorcycles, built to do one thing so pay attention and do that one thing. In keeping with the reliability theme, not much going on with changes to the motor. The car won't make the kind of power I would really want unless/until I put a Mezger engine in it. So, its got the below to try to make sure the power it does have, it keeps having. About 85K on the ODO I think. Fluids are changed very regularly and any small maint items like belts, and hoses are changed at the first sign of wear. The only mod that may have increased power would be the muffler deletes, and I did them for the sound and weight savings. Muffler Delete UAOS LN Engineering 2QT Deep Sump LN Engineering Spin On Filter Adapter Napa Gold 1042 Oil Filter Driven XP9 or DT40 Oil LN Engineering Magnetic Drain Plug LN Engineering Skid Plate Direct Feed IMS The Suspension consists of �hlins coilovers and Tarrett drop links. I have and will be adding GT3 Cup Camber plates, LCA, toe links and other odds and ends soon. The car has been corner balanced and aligned and runs just under - 2 DEG of front and - 2 DEG of negative camber, it needs more. The �hlins are worth the hype and expense in my opinion - I will have to go pretty far in my endeavors with this car to out grow them and go with something more exotic. We'll see if stickier tires exposes any flaws, but with I think with 200+ TW tires, this is a pretty good setup that can be repeated by anyone willing to spend the money with very good results. Ohlins R&T Coilovers Tarrett Drop Links GT3 Cup Top Mount (soon) GT3 CUP LCA (soon) GT3 CUP Rear Toe Link (soon) I have made a lot of changes to the interior, both for weight reduction, as well as for that sensation I talk about in the opening - making the cabin an easy place to drive fast without distraction. Not only the everyday distraction like your phone etc... but from distraction like sliding around in your seat as you're cornering or the sweat on your palms making you notice the steering wheel. The frunk is gutted and so is everything behind the front seats. No radio/speakers/airbags/center console, lower console. It is much louder in the cabin as a result, coupled with the muffler deletes, there is no other way to say it, the car is loud as **** and you hear everything it's doing - windows up or down, don't matter. CAE Shifter Custom Made Shift **** Recaro SPG Driver Seat BK Auto Drivers fixed Mount Sparco EVO II Passanger Seat BK Auto Stock Slider Adapter Schroth Harness RSS 930 Roll Bar OMP Steering Wheel NRG Quick Release NRG Hub The items really specific to weight reduction - the car should weigh well under 3K LBS Radio Delete Odyssey PC680 Battery Rennline Battery Mount Battery Kill Switch Console Delete I have found the brakes in very near to stock form to be way more capable than I am brave at the track. I ran my first bunch of days with the only variation from stock being Castrol SRF fluid. I experienced minor fading towards the end of a 20 min session. When I smoked the stock pads and rotors I swapped them out for something more track focussed - although I have not run them on track yet, the initial bite is much more aggressive than stock. Also, get the GT3 brake ducts, they are larger than the stock ones and are stupid cheap - everyone who ever has to jack up and work on their own car should do this - it will take you 15 min if the car is already on stands and the wheels are off. Hawk HP + Pads Sebro Slotted Rotors Castrol SRF Brake Fluid GT3 Front Brake Ducts Exterior stuff - if it comes on the cup car - its good ****... that's my thinking. I have not got to try out any of the aero stuff yet on track - I'm pretty excited to get the opportunity though. I also added Joe Toth dive planes in the front in the hopes it make for a relatively balanced setup. There is the chance that because the non GT car is so down on power that the drag from the aero outweighs the benefits additional down force, maybe... I don't know. For now, I like the way it looks and know the parts are factory race car proven. GT3 Cup Mirrors GT3 Cup CF Decklid GT3 Cup Wing GT3 Cup Side Skirts Demon Speed 997 Style Uprights Joe Toth Dive Planes (For 986...will work on 996) LED Tail Lights An area at the top of my list to address are the wheels and tires, they work great on the street but I want to go wider, and sticker for the track. Currently run stock LW wheels with PS4S 225/40 and 285/35. 12MM Front and 17MM Rear spacers. The spacers are wasted space and the wheel wells need to be fitted with the widest wheel tire combo I can fit... so stay tuned for that. I will keep this setup for the street likely assuming the tires that are on there live that long, if not - I'll likely sell the setup to help fund some Apex or Enkei wheels. Michelin Pilot Sport 4S Tires Refinished LW Wheels 12MM/17MM Spacer Check out my YT in the link in my sig for some video context of how the setup all works both on the road and the track, I'll update this thread as I contemplate and add new parts... Thanks for reading !

Zbomb, the car looks great. After driving a 944 for many years to the track I can attest to making the suspension too stiff for the street. So fight the urge to put stiff springs on the car. I've spent many a lap at NHMS (formerly NHIS), LRP, Mt Tremblant and Watkins Glen. I'd also be careful driving the car on the street with race pads, as they need lots of heat to work. One night on the way back from Lime Rock, with tire trailer in tow, someone pulled out in front of me about 500 yards ahead. No problem you say, except I was going about 65 mph and the jerk was in no rush to speed up. I got on the brakes hard (yes, slotted rotors and race pads) and wasn't slowing down any time soon. I probably got within 10 yards of the jerk's rear bumper. Moral of the story, don't drive on the street with track pads!

Not confused, built to exacting specifications. Walking the legal line. Maybe it's a new racing class. I'm looking forward to the continuing story.

Who cares what other people would or wouldn't do to their car? Its your car and you are never going to please everybody anyway. So you are well under 3k pounds now? I would have to imagine that is a blast to drive even with the M96 engine. How much do those wheels weigh? Probably going to pay a decent chunk of change but you could get a set of wheels in the 17-18lb range and knock a few more pounds off each corner.

Great thread and love the that you harvested a cup car.... Half the fun of getting your car ready for the track is the journey to get it there. Are you going to paint it al black or leaving as is?

Nice. I was going to ask about your exhaust because it sounds fantastic. Now I know. Probably not going to see you again this year, tho. Perhaps next year.

Honestly, start doing real DE events with a legitimate program and get an experienced instructor in the car. That will do more than any bolt ons. Further, id be surprised if that car is much under 3000, if at all

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Surprise ! It weighed 3008 LBS before: Replace stock battery with PC680 Replace Pass seat Sparco Gut interior/stereo removal Gut Frunk CF Decklid Added: Cup wing / Uprights Cup Side Skirts Dive Planes LN Deep sump/skid plate I'll definitely put up the results after the new suspension pieces go on and the car goes back on scales for corner balance/alignment. We could place wagers - 2890... What DE program do you suggest ?

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I'll be at Palmer on 10/25 with Mass tuning.

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Not sure - I was definitely going to paint it, then I put all the parts on and was like huh... maybe... So we'll see.

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Have just done weight removal stuff. You lost maybe 60lbs. That interior is not gutted. You added back maybe 15lbs...so maybe 2960 Pca is a good start. Just doing solo track days is a great way to pick up bad habits

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Cool, thanks for the input. I got you down for 2960. With regards to bad habits... if you only knew the half of it.

It passes inspection in your state? Congrats

[QUOTE=zbomb;16929449) With regards to bad habits... if you only knew the half of it.[/QUOTE] Oh, that�s a good one....

Great looking build! How are you liking those LED tail lights? My passenger side has the typical crack, and been looking at the OEM looking LED replacements.

you have done some cool stuff to the car. I also question whether you are under 3k, what are using for a scale? if the stock pads were working ok for you, you are driving at a novice level...we all started somewhere of course so nothing wrong with that. You will notice a big dif at track. what tires are you running (not sure if I missed it). What is going on with your harness and the rad clamps on the half cage? the harness' need to be attached to the floor and go over the bar btw. I like some of the stuff you have done but as Quadcammer said just get some seat time with an instructor, hard to do this year I think with covid. Get good habits and keep em. Get some footage at least of track and post on de section and experienced racers will help you. Oh and change those pumpkins (front turn signals) to clear

Zbomb, Very impressive on what you have done to your car. I wish I had your mechanical skills! Enjoying your videos as well! Given all the incredible work you have done to your car, here are three thoughts if you are serious about getting faster around the track. 1. I wouldn't spend another penny on the car until you put in a limited slip differential. All the aero in the world is worthless until you can eliminate the inside rear wheel spin and get power to the outside wheel. It will also provide more stability, balance and the ability to rotate the rear end. Once you get one, you will be amazed at how much faster you become, and kick yourself in what you were missing. 2. Braking power is critical. You will quickly outgrow your stock brakes. Agree with you in trying different pads and rotors first, but as you get faster and brake later, you will find them inadequate. It will be smart to budget this in if you want to shave off lap time. As a side note, I have been running a Brembo GT big brake kit on my car for nearly 15 years with slotted rotors and Pagid yellows. Never, ever had a problem stopping my car when the breaks are cold on the street. They may squeal like he'll, but have never had a problem stopping. However, I always make sure when replacing the pads to bed them in properly. Until they are, stopping power is muted. But this is the case for any brakes. 3. Proper instruction is critical. You may or may not have a good local PCA region that does a lot of track events. But I can guarantee you that somewhere in the northeast are a few good regions that host DE events at the NE tracks. At every event are PCA instructors that are experienced with the 996 and its quirks on the track. You need these folks to help you. sCCA events are great, but most of the instructors and drivers are not familiar with the difference in driving style between a front engine, mid engine and rear engine Porsche. At this stage, I would recommend only spending time at Pca de events, so you can surround yourself with rear engine culture, instruction, tips, experience etc. There is nothing better as a novice than to be able to sit in the passenger seat of your instructors 996 as they travel around the track and you can see their line, braking areas, turn in, throttle actions etc., as it relates to the balancing quirks of the 996. Rear engine Porsches are not quite the same as driving a front engine or mid engine car. If you don't believe me, try following a 944 or a Cayman around the carousel, kink, thunder alley and then Canada corner at Road America, and you will not only see the huge differences in how the cars handle, but more importantly you will see the different approaches needed to finesse each car at different points around the track. You need this insight to improve your lap times. This is where the Pca events are a huge advantage in getter faster in your 996. Hope this helps. Always great to see someone who enjoys the 996 experience. Keep it going!

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I replaced my stockers due to same crack, aesthetically, I think they do a lot to modernize the rear of the car. I think these were like $300 for the pair. They look awesome at night. Flat out Motorsports corner balance scales. https://www.flatout-motorsports.com Feel free to enter the pool with QC and I and guess the weight. It will be on the same scales when new suspension parts get installed... Harnesses are installed per Schroth instruction on attaching to roll bar. Clamps are to assure they don't move on the bar. Keeping the orange lights. Thanks for watching the videos and the kind words and most of all the great input, I appreciate it.

Interesting. Not my cup of tea but I'm not into racing. So, how well does it run on the track? I doubt a few 100#'s (give or take) will make all that much difference in track times. Seems like there's a whole list of other things that would matter more in making the car go faster but lower weight is certainly a clear objective if you need something to focus on in preping the car for the track. Good luck!

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Runs like this... And ounces = LBS on a car that does not have much power...Thats my take anyway. You Tube

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Nice run. Looked almost leisurely, except when you looked at the g's meter. Where was the Vette you "ate?" Must have been near the end of the clip; didn't watch the whole thing. Wouild be interested to see how my C7 7MT 460HP would stack up on that track; only problem it's a convertible and probably couldn't run w/o a roll bar. Oh well . . .guess we'll never know. LOL!

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It would be a ****load faster than a 996...in a straight line Here's most of the passes, I think you'll see some vettes in there You Tube

I like the "Outlaw Street Vibe" on your car. I prefer function over concours like you do.

You know I value your opinion Skip - Thanks. You've been a big help along the way and I really appreciate it.

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I like helping people especially when they are making decisions I approve of !!

I really like your car...both looks and mods-wise. If I were you, I'd keep it looking like it currently does. I like the mismatched look. I feel like my car is a bit confused as well. Mine is a dual use daily/autoX-track oriented car, but I've been leaning more towards DD duties. Someday I'll pick up another car, or more likely a truck, and then it will become an AutoX/Track - weekend car. I might do more of the mods you have done then. Mine still has most of its interior...for now.

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Thanks Tex, I get a real enjoyment modifying the car, the evolving vision of what I want it to be. I’m pretty happy where it is now and enjoy sharing it with others. The more I change, the more time I can spend around it when I’m not actually driving it. I did 160 miles on a Sunday drive with one of my YT subscribers yesterday - it was a blast and the car still works well as a road thrasher.

I am literally drooling over your car, please keep sharing the gory details! I also need to try the rear diff, I have lots of laps and can compare easily. Maybe a Black Friday present to myself??

Your car seems to have a very similar ethos to my car, I want a highly track oriented car that I can still drive to the grocery store. My car is on GT3 coil overs, has solid engine mounts, -3* of camber, Hawk HT-10 pads, and feels very uncompromised in its approach but I love the way it drives. I may never afford a GT3 so I want as much of the experience as I can get in my budget.

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Dont worry, that will make you a better driver the those driving newer get cars.

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One of the best pieces of easy simple and affordable advice I've seen on here. Very cool They are in my cart. $4.21 each!

I have been looking into LSD options and am thinking about going with the Quaife setup as part of the winter upgrades... The stuff I'm thinking about doing over the winter: - LSD - Apex Wheels with 245 and 315''s - Fit the GT3 cup top mounts, sway bars, LCA's, UCA, wish bones and toe arms. (Have most of these parts) - Car Data/lap logging. I want to be able to log oil pressure and temp, coolant pressure and temp, lambda in both banks, IAT, crankcase vacuum - This is my pie in the sky list and will probably have to settle for only some of these parameters. - GT3 Cup roof installed (Have this now) - FG of CF hood - External oil cooler mounted where the passenger muffler used to be fed by a NACA duct and puller fan through the heat exchanger exhausting through vent in rear bumper. I will use tubing to duct to the cooler which will be shrouded in something like the below.

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I mentioned these to the owner of the 996 C4 that I installed the coilovers on yesterday. I promised to get him the part numbers. (I still need tondo that) Where did you find them that cheap?

Check wheels off the list...kind of. Found a set of BBS E88's for sale in NY - A 5.5HR one way trip. Made an offer I did not really think would be accepted and sure enough, I now have my dream wheels. 18X9 - not sure of offset, Seller said 44, 18X12 44 (WB Sizing maybe...) Seller was running them on what I thought was a NB 997 Good - Did I mention these are my dream wheels for a 996 - Iconic racing heritage, timeless design, light and strong - I did not pay close to retail - Came with Toyo R888R 245/40 and 305/35 - The front are in pretty good shape - I'll probably only get a track day or 2 out of the rear. But, definitely better than nothing and will give me a chance to see if I like them - Wheels are in very good condition Not awesome - Fronts will require a small spacer to clear the �hlins, going to get a 3MM and a 5MM set and see what's what... - Rears are going to require some work. I'm thinking A) Path of least resistance (money) swap what I think to be a 3in lip with a 2 in bringing the width down to an 11in and bringing the offset in by an inch. I think that would make the wheels pretty close to cup specs B) Get new barrels and lips to keep the wheels at 12in wide but get the offset to 68. I think I'm probably going to go with A but if anyone has good hookups in the land of 3 piece wheels, feel free to pass along contacts as I would like to learn more about what options exist. Also, for anyone interested in weight comparison: Stock front 18X8 225x40 43.5 LBS BBS Front 18X9 245X40 47 LBS Stock rear 18X10 285x35 52.5 LBS BBS Rear 18X12 305X35 50.5 LBS Once I get the BBS sorted, I may be selling the MY02 that are currently on the car with PS4S so if anyone has any interest in those, feel free to let me know in the PM's. They won't be cheap as the powder coat cost I have into them was expensive but they are very close to perfect and very unique.

Another option, fender flares and run the rear wheels as is. It’s an option...

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The thought had crossed my mind but the only rear flares I was seeing that are readily available are the RSR and I don't think they would look right without addressing the front as well. And I only need an inch, maybe an inch and a half, so they would be way overkill I think. Then there's the whole cutting the fender and welding the seam, fender liners etc... I went wide body on my last Evo and it was a lot of work to do it right. The lines of the 996 are so appropriate, they need to stay that way.

Ahh love the e88s. I'm thinking easiest would be to reduce lip size. You'll lose that deep lip look but would be the most cost effective. I've worked with VRwheels out here in socal in the past for relip/rebuilds.

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Thanks for the vendor info, I�m less concerned about the lip size and more with getting the fit right and running a 305 or 315 tire. Im going to give VRwheels a shout.

Just got the actual specs on the wheels from Supreme Power who originally sold them and I have to say, surprised the rears are as close as they are.

Hey Zbomb- Cool project....always fun to see a guy develop his own car. Hit me up if you want any advice/experience on bringing a street 996 to track. Over the past 7 years I’ve taken my car about as far as you can go with an m96 motor.....spent an absurd amount of money on trial and error that I’d be happy to help you save! One unique thing to remember is that these cars are very underpowered, so a lot of the advances in speed were actually counterintuitive. What makes a factory cup fast didn’t necessarily translate to the street car. Few things I’ve already noticed: 1) Don’t buy a quaife. It’s serviceable for canyon carving but the cost benefit is horrible for a car that’ll run on track. Save your money and get a Guard down the line; eventually you’ll go that route anyway and this way you save install $$ 2) 18x9/12’s won’t fit your car. You need 18x8/10 (maybe 11 if you go aggressive camber) 3) Correct tire size for this car is 240/280....that’s the fastest set. Any larger and you’re adding rolling resistance that actually slows the car down on fast tracks. To save you time and headache, anything larger than 300 will not fit in the rear period unless you go full track set-up (at least 2.7 degrees camber), rolling the fenders and tubbing the wheel wells. You could probably fit a 305 street tire under there, but the sidewall would have to be so low profile that it’ll be useless on track. I run 250/305 slicks for races to manage wear, but if I was captain money bags I’d qualify on 240/280 because they’re faster 4) switch to a 55” wing on the back. The cup 60” is WAAAY to much drag and is a vMax killer on our cars. It won’t look as cool, but it’s faster. Here’s mine at is sits today. No 996 street car left except the tub, ABS and m96. It weighs 2,440lbs with 1/2 a tank of gas!

Any plans for sway bars? I have 315's in the rear on an 11.5" wheel with no adjustable control arms.... BUT ....The 11.5" wheel was not something I spec'd. I really wanted CCW C14s or C10's and a local sale popped up for brand new wheels for a steal. If I could spec the wheels to my size, I would run something to accommodate 285/295 tires. Options become limited and expensive with a 11.5" wide 18" wheel. That being said...it sure does look good.

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1st off - You the man ! Thanks for all the input - I know that knowledge you have passed along does not come easy or cheap and really appreciate it. 2440 LBS is certainly one way to mitigate an underpowered chassis. It also makes a lot of sense that some of the mods that one may think would be beneficial do not yield the entirety of the results hoped for due to not being able to fully seize the advantage due to lack of grunt - so I appreciate you bringing that up. Things like too much downforce creating a Vmax penalty that can't be overcame with the added cornering speeds the downforce allow are certainly interesting topics to discuss. Onto your points 1. I have reached out to Guard to get some info - it is a big leap but I understand your buy once cry once mentality here and the performance of their parts is well known and I have no doubt on par with the price. 2. I am surprised to see your thoughts on sizing here - I'm a little set in the direction here at this point on running a 9 and 11, this seemed to be a pretty popular setup and I was taking some direction from Apex sizing suggestion for 996 NB cars. https://support.apexraceparts.com/hc...-Fitment-Guide 3. Camber likely to be in the 3ish range with 245 and 305. Can you share your suspension setup and ride heights ? I believe my ride height to be pretty conservative - I just told the shop that set it up to make it work for a dual use car - the next setup will be much more geared to track use with only the occasional street use - to and from track and maybe once a month rip on the road to a car meet or coffee run. Very cool you are faster with the smaller tire and really highlights some of those effects you mention of not making a big power setup for a low power car - what kind of time differences have you seen ? I know nothing about suspension setup and would like to pick your brain on the topic. 4. Throwing a 55in wing is not a huge deal - I will run the cup wing for a couple events and get a feel for it and will have some idea of delta if I make the switch. I plan on keeping the car for a long time and at some point - hopefully by choice and not need, will address the underpowered part - by the time that happens, hopefully the chassis will be relatively sorted. Again, thanks for the input - feel free to post up some info on your setup, parts selection etc... and if you have any videos on track, I would love to see them. Rough plan, I'm going to put a cup car bar in the rear, looking to source one for the front - otherwise maybe a Tarrett.

Ditto on Guard LSD

You can save some money with Guard by buying a used rebuilt LSD if they still offer the option.

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Happy to help. Quick responses: 2) street car and track tire/rim combos differ for number of reasons. If you�re running stock height you could fit a 325 tire because it doesn�t have to tuck under the fender. As for rim size, it�s more about tire fitment than max width. For track tires you don�t want them stretched on a rim, so running 280-295 tires will fit better on a 10� than 11� 3) my ride height is �abnormal� because my car is. I run 80mm and 98mm (996 cup is 85 and 112-115). Front is off because I run a combo of 996/997 cup parts and rear is off as a result of the light weight and because I�m running a 305 rear tire (the max workable tire is 650, while the 996 cups are based off of a 680 rear). Don�t stress over the car being underpowered. It�s a point of pride charging past 997.2 cups in my little street car. Primary issue is the m96 just isn�t tunable for power/weight classes, where the DFI and mezger cars can develop significantly better power bands. My suspension settings are below; this is full race on 1000/1200lbs springs

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I am not the expert on 996 chassis tuning given your picture and videos with the front wheel in the air you need a heavier rear sway bar. Rear sway bar = changes front wheels. I would leave the front sway bar alone for now. Looks great.

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Wow. Cool, yeah - I would love to know more about the specifics of your setup - cool stuff and pretty gnarly specs. Thanks Aaron - then I'm covered with what's currently on-hand.

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Would you say the handing characteristics for your car are pretty neutral with this setup? I'm trying to help my friend get his 996 track car setup but we both come from a BMW background. We're switching his suspension to JRZ RS Pros that included 600lb /800lb springs. We were thinking it was too soft. It's a track dedicated car that weights less than 2,500lb.

Wow, all of a sudden, this has turned into my go to thread for track set-up. Thanks guys!

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It�s neutral, but more importantly it�s tunable. I run double adjustable motons from a 996 cup, so not demonstrably different than the JRZ�s. I can get it to do what I want on most tracks without having to compromise. Only real issue is a little push in high speed corners (>120mph) that is aero related. I�m the idiot that has tried almost every combination of spring rates, so hopefully I can save you a bit of money. 500/700 is way too soft and creates epic ABS issues. 700/800 is good if you�re running a low profile tire (640 or below), but still a bit of a compromise; really more for nasty bumpy tracks. 800/1000 created a weird gremlin on my car....porposing and general instability (I think that�s a �my car� issue tho). 1000/1200 is just right! For your buddies car I�d go 700/800 If he�s in the process of learning the car, and by car I mean how to track a 911. If not, I�d head up the rate scale to min 900/1100. Important to also be sure the JRZ�s are valved properly; they may be set for a 3,100 pound car on soft springs. I don�t want to send Zbomb�s thread too far off topic, so you guys can feel free to PM me anytime.

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I appreciate your input and experience, so no worries on sending off topic. This is great stuff and I am happy it can be found in this thread so keep it coming (I'll remember where to find it when I want to revisit later )

Changed the gearbox oil for the first time since I've owned the car with Motul Gear 300, replaced both the fill and magnetic drain plugs with new parts from the dealer while I was at it. $50 for the fill, drain and a stack of crush washers... Changed out the Driven XP9 and the 1042 filter and gave the suspension, steering and brakes a good once over. Ordered 2.5in lips for the E88s, will bring the rears down to 11 so we'll see where that gets us. Also, bought 5MM spacers from a fellow RL'r which should get the front all sorted. I could have the new wheel/tire setup ready for the track next weekend, not going to push it though as I know the current setup will get me through without question. I'll be at Palmer Motorsports Park next Sunday, been watching many laps of the place and I can not wait to get out there. Will be my last track day of the year.

I'll be there Monday. I can't make it next weekend. Do you know which direction you're running? If you want a talk through give me a call. Or if you want to meet for a chat tomorrow.

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Who you running with on Monday and which car you bringing ? I'm not sure which direction, I've reached out to the organizer to try to nail it down. Not sure I can meet tomorrow but will definitely reach out in the next couple days for some helpful hints. I need to buy the GPS also, keep forgetting. Going to do that now.

Running with SCDA, we're going clockwise. I'm bringing the Corrado, I just installed some Toyo R888R's on it as the NT01's were totally hammered. Last time out at Palmer going the other direction I set a PB of 2:00 flat. The 996TT seems to have developed an oil leak that will require an engine out service to fix, annoying.

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Funny, you went from NT01 to R888R and I am close to pulling the trigger on the inverse. Thinking I�ll likely pull the R888r off as the rears have some pretty bad camber wear and putting the NT01s on, folks seem to speak really highly of them, and in Porsche circles it seems the R888r does not get as much praise. I�ll keep the R888r for a while in case of emergency. Bummer on the turbo, let me know if you want another set of hands for the work, I�d be happy to help out.

2.5in lips installed and spacers showed up today as well. Hopefully tomorrow pics of the wheels on the car and at least close to fitting. For now, enjoy this hot, hot fire

Popping in for more e88 content. YES! Glad you were able to source the smaller lips. Now looking forward to remounted pics!

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Oh, I thought you were running PS2's. Yes, the R888R is not well thought of on 911's especially Turbos. Quite a few guys have had rear tread separations and blowouts on the track. I think that's because there is so much weight on the 911's back tires. That's not an issue with the Corrado with less than 900 pounds on each front tire. I run NT01's on the 996TT. Anyway the R888R's were fantastic. I clicked off four 2:01's in a row then a 2:00 before I had to take a cool down lap because of the oil temps. And I now know that I was not using a good line through 5-4-3 and I ought to be able to improve that next time. If you're getting excessive wear on the inside of the rear tires it's probably a toe issue. Camber does not really cause much wear unless you go crazy aggressive, 3 or 4 degrees won't change the wear pattern very much.

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What wing does you buddy have there on the right? I have wing envy on both BTW

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That's in line with what others have found. Higher spring rates seem to be the way to go.

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Ive been running PS4S on track on my stock wheels. When I bought the E88s they came with the R888�s with the inner wear. MY PS4S wearing fine. Good to hear you had a successful day, got a confirmation I�ll be running clockwise on Sunday. I believe that�s a GT2 rep wing.

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OIC about the tires. I have a go to meeting subscription, if you want to do a virtual track walk I could set that up.

I have run proxies on my 2002 996 C2 as well as Hoosiers, and sport cups. my choices for speed and handling assuming you are a ble to transport the car and/or tires to the track to put on later, are as follows. ​​​​​​1. Hoosiers 2. Sport cups 3. Proxies if you have to drive the car to the track with no way to transport Hoosiers, then my choice is as follows. 1. Sport cups 2. Proxies 3. Hoosiers. Proxies are good on the track, but sport cups in my opinion have better sidewall strength and longevity. Possibly better track times. Hoosier have better sidewall and grip than proxies, with odds of more speed. There is a reason Hoosiers are nicknamed "black crack" . Once you use them, you become addicted. the safest of the three to drive to the track are obviously the sport cups. However, I have driven many times to the track on proxys at 50 mph in lousy weather. As a side note, I don't recommend it. Any hint of water or too cold of weather and you are driving on ice. Sport cups 2s offer better traction in the wet. However, they are not street tires so you will get in trouble in a downpour. Clearly you should never attempt to drive Hoosiers on the street even though they are dot approved. Bottom line in my humble experience: if you are driving to and from the track on the tires, your best choice are sport cups. If you are transporting the car and tires on a trailer, go with Hoosiers. One final thought, proxies are loud as he'll. Hope the info helps.

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Those have to be the best looking wheels I�ve seen on 911!

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Cant write as long a response as I would like (Office) but how was the longevity with the Hoosiers ? Like are you replacing them 2x as often as say at Pilot Sport Cup or Toyo ?

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Aaron, That would be awesome. I�ll reach out in the PMs later today to see if we can lineup timing. THANKS !

My experience has been that you will get between 3-5 30 min sessions out of each set of Hoosiers. Depends on how fast of a run group you run in, track temperatures etc. I have run them in the black group in the Chicago region over many years and over three different tracks. Road America, Blackhawk Farms and autobahn. Those that run in the slower groups seem to get 5-8 30 minute sessions out of them. Suffice to say, Hoosiers wear much faster than proxies or sport cups, but are incredibly faster. The question is how much do yo want to spend to go faster, and you will. Sport cups give you the most longevity. Then proxies and then Hoosiers. If you try Hoosiers, you will become addicted. Hope that helps.

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Are those A7s? That wear seems excessive on R7s.

Never remember which one is autocross and which one is track. I use the track version. Tire Rack says they are good for 8 heat cycles. Track temp, characteristics, car, set-up, driver experience/speed, etc., all play into the equation. If you are an average driver at average speed you will probably get 8 heat cycles out of it. If you are fast, it's a hot day, track is trippy withlots of braking/turning areas, you may only get 4-6. Hoosiers are awesome, but just like all tires, they will eventually get greasy. You have to make a decision as the driver when you want to put a new set on.

Remember, Hoosiers are soft rubber that is sticky to the touch before being used. They deteriorate fast. You can't compare Hoosier rubber to street tires. Very different animal. If you are worried about durability, your best bet is a set of sport cup 2s.

Had to do it for you guys... picked the wheels up tonight and thought I would be doing a disservice to my comrades if I just put up a garage photo so I had to lug the old girl out of the garage for a rare after work test drive. Some work to do on the rear, glad I don't care about the rubber that's on it, will let me fine tune and make sure I'm in good shape for new meats. The wider tire on the front makes a huge difference even just putting around. Excited to get this setup refined and try it on track in the spring.

Zbomb, Looking very good. Quick question on front end aero that I may have missed. Did or will you be bolting on the GT3 or GT3 Cup front spoiler?

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Thanks ! Right now JT dive planes only front aero. Not sure what I�ll be doing for a splitter. Standard C2 bumper options seem to limited so thinking about if I have to modify something to make it work, what do I want to start with.

Final tire and wheel sizes? Thanks. Loving the refinement of the build.

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Thanks man ! Front 18x9+50 245x40 5MM Spacer to clear coil over Rear 18X11+67 305x35 Rear rubs. Fenders will be massaged for the clearance needed for full suspension travel. Also, plan to run about an additional negative .5-1 degree of camber compared to where I am now. Brand new rear lips nicely polished, I'm going to have to put some elbow grease on the fronts...the mismatch is killing me.

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In FL over the next week and i hope to stop by Sunset Porsche and spend some time with their parts department discussing how to effectively bolt on a GT3 front splitter to an 02 Carrera front bumper. i understand that they are no-longer making the GT3 Cup front splitter available for sale, but aftermarket shops may be manufacturing. I'll confirm what they say and get back to the thread. At this stage over the past 18 years, i have done everything you can reasonably do to my 02 996 from a suspension, lsd, bolt on engine stuff, software, exhaust, safety equipment, GT3 seats, brakes etc. for mechanical grip and handling for the track, while keeping it driveable on the street. Now i need to settle on aero that's effective on the track and able to be driven around town. Your thread and what you have been doing to your car is a big help.

I would really like a full carbon splitter with ducting similar to this piece that’s available for GT4’s I have toyed with the idea of making something myself (less complex than above) after watching this guys YT channel. He is doing some amazing things on his build, worth a watch. You Tube

Now that would be a fascinating project. Have thought about it many times but lack the mechanical/craftsman skillset. it may possibly solve the clearance problem that we all have if our cars have been lowered with after market suspensions.

I�m guessing you have, but in case you have not, have you seen/considered the Joe Toth 2 piece front splitters? Probably what I will end up going with, seems like the best of both worlds for a car that gets driven to, then at, the track. Also, I�m a sucker for dzus fasteners...

I talked with Joe on splitters for the .2 bumper when I was working with him on which version of the dive planes to get (he does not make a .2 specific set and I’m using boxster parts). He relayed he did not have a splitter setup that would work for a .2 without extensive modification which is a bummer.

I bought a 996tt front bumper to transplant on, slightly more aero, then with adding the splitter, significantly more aero. It adds a step (bumper swap), but also you get the opening for a third radiator, so a 2 for 1 in that respect.

Had a really fun track day at Palmer Motorsports Park today running the clockwise direction. It was my first time there and I found the track to be very challenging with lots of blind apexes, elevation and positive/negative camber turns. I definitely can't wait to go back after getting to study some of what I did today and having the experience under my belt. I ran a best time of 1:55 and was consistently around that time with no traffic, so I was pretty happy with the consistency -but- there is a ton I left on the table. The car worked great - no leaks, funny noises or bad smells. The aero all stayed affixed to the car and it got a lot of attention in the paddock. It was cold out today and although the PS4S did slide around a fair bit they were as they have been, confidence inspiring with their predicability. I am definitely ready for a stickier tire though. Great oil pressure all day with the cooler temps likely playing a role - it was in the 40's and got into the low 50's in the afternoon. Car made the trip to and from - 1HR each way easy and I think made a kids day when I came out from gassing up on the way home and said kid and his pop were looking at the car, I asked the kid if he wanted to sit in the drivers seat and his dad got some pics for Mom - future Porsche owner hopefully. Chalking one up for keeping it streetable enough to drive to and from the track. I'll have some video up in the next couple days, stay tuned !

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Cripes, 1:55 is a very good time. I've been trying all year to crack 2:00. I guess I need more power for those elevation changes. I can't wait to see your video.

Thanks Aaron - I just edited the video and I got to be honest, I can do a lot better. This track really has a lot going on and I was too timid on the downhills and high speed last couple turns. That said, I cannot wait to get back there. Anyway, here's the video - hope you all enjoy ! You Tube

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This I can understand. The only place I have ever scared myself on track is right there at Palmer on my first Clockwise day. I came out of T5-T4 and carried FAR too much speed downhill into T3, 4-wheel drifted the Corrado through T3 somehow keeping it on the track as the tire wall is RIGHT THERE and I knew if I put 2 off I would be greeting it at speed. I've seen more crashes at Palmer than anywhere else, even in the usually disciplined SCDA events. Yes, I'm counting the days too. At the moment Clockwise at Palmer is my favorite track.

There were 2 incidents during my day, a BRZ that definitely was written off and another rear drive car that will be salvaged but had good contact with the wall. Definitely consequence for bravado not matched with skill there, a big part of why I really chose my corner battles carefully. A stickier tire would give some more confidence in the sections where mechanical grip is hard to find. Fun track though.

Rolled the fenders last week to see what that would do to resolve the rubbing I experienced in the rear with the 305/35, an act of God occurred today and it's 72 degrees in MA so I was able to get it out for a spin and I was "street" successful with the fender rolling. One rubbing occurrence going over a moderate bump in the road at speed. Spirited driving, no rub. The fact it rubbed at all means I still have work to do to assure full rear suspension travel. I will be using the camber from the -2.5 to -3, maybe a little more and that should help. Also considering going from a 305/35 to a 315/30 as the 35 tire is really tall for the rear of the NB car... I also have been stashing away parts for when she goes to sleep. Elephant front camber plates, cup rear sway, adjustable rear toe arms, cup dog bones, stainless brake lines, cup master cylinder, BK sub bar for passenger seat - Got to decide if I'm going to complete the set of cup LCA's I have or go another direction. Also, been thinking the car may go all black over the winter... still undecided. Got some sweet pics though of the car with the wheels out in the wild...

I’m running 315/30 18s on my 2002 C4S and it does not rub.

Yes and I'm running 315/30-18's on my Turbo and it doesn't rub - but we have wide body cars and Jason's is a narrow body car.

As Aaron mentioned above, less margin for error on the narrow body cars and at the track, on my suspension, the tires will tuck into the rear fenders on suspension compression so getting everything clearanced to allow full rear suspension travel while keeping the tire free is required. It will probably necessitate pulling the spring off and compressing the damper to the stops to be sure, I will work that over the winter when the car is under the knife. Heres a picture to illustrate just how much the rear will tuck on my setup as currently configured.

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yes, overlooked that fact!

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Impressive update, thanks for sharing. Another thing to consider is the LCAs with wheelbase adjustment for the front, just in case you haven�t already made your decision.

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Randy - Can you expand on the above with regards to front LCA with wheelbase adjustment.

Im running a 295 with a 11x18 et63 rim on my 2000 c2. It has about 2.5* of camber and it fits with plenty of room with rolled fenders. Im sure the 305 will fit easily. Im also picking up some 305s nt-01s later this month so ill be testing my theory too.

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I see your inside front wheel in the air again, if you run a stiffer rear sway it will help that and will limit compression in the rear as the same time. I'm actually wondering if your rear springs are too soft as well.

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Is he referring to caster adjustment?

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I think so... I have been thinking about the same thing, especially reading earlier in the thread about what some are suggesting for spring rates. The �hlins are really a dual purpose coilover and I'm wondering if I up the spring rates if a revalve should happen concurrently. I'm such a noob on suspensions, I need to do some research for a MFG, shop or person to work with that can help me along in this department.

For the wheelbase, my hypothesis is if I can just nudge the front wheel rearward a few mm I can get clearance for the 245s. So the elephant racing LCAs have that adjustment. I might be wrong there. Yes agreed for the rear spring rate, I have just ordered higher rate springs to swap into my Ohlins. Really looking forward to next track season.

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What did you go with for springs and where did you buy ? Thanks !

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I liked the rates on the H&R Club Sports that I had before, the rates were approximately 450/900. I called Ohlins and they talked me through process and proper specs. They are Swift Springs and were ordered through MGC Suspensions. Once I get them installed, I can report if they are the correct size and how they feel.

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The stock Ohlins rates are 343/685 - Are you planning on making any changes to the dampers (revalving) ?

The Ohlins rep said the current valving can cover +15% Spring rate. My selection is above that. However I am not running close to the max damping force currently. I would like to try this set-up and reflect if it works or not. I will report back.

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Interesting... Thanks for the info ! I have been running my Ohlins at 3 clicks to the stiffest setting all track season. I actually wanted to go stiffer before the last track day but now knowing the track kept me from attempting as I knew what I had and thought better of messing with it, for better or worse.

Dudes... I made some changes to the car, took it to Europe and entered a hill climb, wanted to show them all what's up, they even thought it was a GT3. Don't worry - I'm back and I returned the car to how you last saw it. I wheeled the car so mightily - they put a video up on YT - you should all check it out You Tube

ha ha, yes, you are confused... anyway, i'm not sure any of that is a good idea. and what kind of maniac stands on the outside of those turns to spectate?

That's something to aspire to! Amazing

[QUOTE= what kind of maniac stands on the outside of those turns to spectate?[/QUOTE] I was thinking the same thing

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Yup - They're way crazier than the drivers themselves! Have you ever seen the Isle of Mann motorcycle race? Even crazier... maybe if they'd seen this video they wouldn't stand so close... You Tube

Finally got some pictures from my last track day.

So I was reviewing the footage from my last track day a little closer, since I had not adjusted the camera properly for a preferred outside view (was more washed out than I would have liked) I got a better cockpit view than I generally do and I could get a pretty clear look at my gauges. I watched a session back with an eye on the oil pressure gauge and noticed a constant dip down to 2 Bar and change at the same point on the track. The pressure did not drop quite as far, about 2.5 Bar on first couple laps of the day and also did not drop as far or consistently when I was slower than capable due to traffic. Sweeping right coming off a braking zone, as soon as I get off the brakes and turn in a quick drop of about 1 Bar in pressure that builds rapidly as G's are bled off. This is on PS4S tires, 2QT Deep sump and baffle, XP9 oil. You can see RPM at the time at about 4K, coolant temps are good and I am at WOT at this point. Clean magnetic drain plug and filter was inspected and free of any debris as well. Below are the screen shot, showing RPM and pressure as well as the track map showing the point on track of occurrence. I also added the video as well. If you leave it in small screen you can zoom in and watch the gauge. You Tube

^ Porsche x51 baffles (plastic) or LN Engineering/EBS metal baffle kit? The former is hot garbage and will break down over time (quickly with track use) or even worse the tabs are prone to breaking on install. My engine shop won’t even install the Porsche part as, *their claim, 50% break on install. I have the deep Sump and ebs metal baffles and it’s perfect everywhere but the AAA roval.

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LN/EBS... If I had not watched the video back with an eye on the gauge, no way I would have noticed it as it was so brief and only at that one point on the track, but it's clearly there. My larger concern is the temps were very favorable, 43 ambient and I was on street tires. It will be R comps and a summers worth of track days next season so I expect the issue to be more prevalent if not resolved.

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hmmmm....oil level maybe? I run slicks on a 2600 lbs car, so am pulling as many G�s as you can in a 996 and the oil level always stays within range. I track it via data acquisition, so very accurate. Either way it�s something you want to keep an eye on and good on you for looking out. These motors are not robust and oil starvation is a known issue.

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Oil level was set 1/3 of dip stick...

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that�s the magic level. Weird; sorry I couldn�t be more help bud.

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No worries, I appreciate the input. May be leaning to an accusump...

Great thread zbomb...as a long-time 996 owner, I admire your passion and drive!

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accusump is way more trouble than its worth. Do you have just the vertical baffle or the horizontal one as well? Also, what oil are you running? lastly, what are your oil temps. When my oil temps are around 200, pressure drop is nearly non-existent. At 240, pressure drops all over the place. Run XP9 and keep your oil no higher than 220 and the motor should be ok. I'm baffled by people who claim their pressure is great everywhere. If someone can show me the graph of that, I'd be interested.

wrong thread*

Your accusump thoughts are in line with what others have said but frankly, not sure what options exist and maintaining this status quo is likely not a good idea for long, or short term reliability. If you have personal experience with the accusump I would love to hear, most people say not worth it but have not run themselves. No discrete oil temp gauge, this last event though ambient was 43F so not likely to see a better scenario for non thinned oil then than that without changing parts and adding additional oil/coolant cooling capacity. I run XP9 and sump setup pictures below.

thats the same thing i have. doesn't do much it seems. I have not personally run the accusump, so theres that, but a lot of SPB racers tried it and eventually went away from it because of the complexity, steps to ensure it was going to work, additional plumbing, etc. Its not too expensive to try but eh. A gentleman in the 996 forum had some sort of dual pickup made, but when I contacted his shop, I got no response. I rebuilt an m97 with my friend for his spec cayman, and we were very diligent about bearing clearance and even deleted the piston squirters to try to keep pressure up. He still has regular pressure drops, as low as 15 psi in some turns (which is consistent with my car). I think the mid engine cars may be worse, but event still. You could try to rig up a dry sump, but thats an expensive process. At this point, I think your best bet is to keep the oil cool and run a good oil and accept the fact that the motor might lunch itself at pretty much any point.

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There you go. Chris Cervelli Cervelli Technical Service

From what I have read and when I was dreaming of a dry sump To resolve a host of M96 issues I read a bunch of stuff from CTS, CTS seems to be the only one to have figured out legit solutions and backed with data. If you want to help out a lowly 996 track car, hit me up and thanks for poking in here. Is the above graph with accusump or one of your dry sump systems ?

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Hi Chris, Thats with your dry sump I'm assuming? I was more referring to people who just have the standard baffle setup.

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I think the lack of an oil temp gauge is the most absurd decision about the entire car. I would add one as soon as possible. Ashai wrote up a post on how to tap the existing oil temp sensor and add a dash gauge. I did something similar for my Turbo; the Turbo's oil temp sensor is not at all the same as the NA car so I mostly used the concept. That little readout below the clock shows oil temp. If you want a hand doing something similar let me know.

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Thanks Aaron. I know nothing about electrical... I like that solution. It is likely that I will be adding a dash display over the winter so I can view, monitor and alarm some of the critical paremeters. If it wasn't for the video, I never would have known about the pressure dip - it happened so quickly and at a point of the track 100% or my focus was on hitting the spot - I was very surprised to see it when I focussed on it rewatching.

Looking at the data log, looks like a low oil pressure of 2.3 at 3K RPM and little over 1G but at 4K RPM roughly same G loading its at 3.4 I wonder what the oil temp was. From my video, stock gauge reading slightly above 2 bar at 4K RPM at around .8-1G on the GoPro... Looks like that motor had at least 1 BAR better pressure under similar circumstance, but - that is the only spot on THAT track where that set of circumstances led to a pressure drop on that day for me - I really wish I had better data.

Pressure drop and recovery all happened in about 3 seconds. 1:11 in video .9G 3 bar and a bit. 1:12 1.1G 3 Bar even 1:13 .9G 2 Bar Stays around 2 Bar until bled down to .4 G at 1:16 when pressure begins to climb again.

[QUOTE=zbomb;17048507]Looking at the data log, looks like a low oil pressure of 2.3 at 3K RPM and little over 1G but at 4K RPM roughly same G loading its at 3.4 I wonder what the oil temp was. From my video, stock gauge reading slightly above 2 bar at 4K RPM at around .8-1G on the GoPro... Looks like that motor had at least 1 BAR better pressure under similar circumstance, but - that is the only spot on THAT track where that set of circumstances led to a pressure drop on that day for me - I really wish I had better data. [QUOTE=zbomb;17048507] You'll notice that OP follows RPM exactly. The spikes you see in the OP trace are the result of the RPM going up and down quickly due to downshifting blips. The pressure difference you note is not real. The data engine has the oil pressure sensor in the oil cooler (very close to the main bearings) and your engine is reading from the valve cover, which will read quite a bit less due to the pressure drop thru the various passages. Your pressure gauge reacts very slowly so you are seeing roughly a 1 second average. A 25 hz datalog like you see here would show spikes down to 1 bar, which is the pressure generated by the pump when it is pumping only air. Oil temp is about 213. There is a temp trace on there. Once you get up near 1G each additional increment of G does not affect the sloshing much. You can do the math on this. Average RPM is a very big factor in all this. This is why the 2.5 Boxster engines last the longest. Redline is 6700 and the gears are widely spaced. Average RPM over the lap is at least 500 rpm lower than a 996. Chris

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I see the oil temp, thanks - the rock steady line fooled me. Thanks for the info - would be interesting to see a log of a stock or deep sump equipped motor for comparison. This kind of data and your experience is interesting and very rare to see, thank you for taking the time to post it.

See the dry sump thread from a couple years ago. There are multiple screenshots of OP data from engines with deep sumps or stock sumps. Chris

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Based off this statement, the extra capacity from my deep sump is just sitting in the heads. That would lead me to believe that under the right conditions the reduced oil in the sump coupled with the right combination of forces have moved a sufficient amount of oil away from the pickup to allow it to pick up air momentarily. And this is not helping with oil sump volume, and would make some sense in my case seeing the pressure drop after a sweeper then hard on the brakes: That being the case, short of having a bottomless sump, or restricting the flow of oil to the head where it overwhelms the return, keeping enough oil in the sump to assure an uninterrupted supply to the pickup is a tough row to hoe. The restrictor idea makes sense. Found the log I was looking for...

I have started to get a pretty good stash of parts set aside and since the snow is now falling here in MA, I thought updating the thread with some parts I have, some parts I need would be a good distraction. Pictured below Front Adjustable Tie Rods Rear Adjustable Toe Links Read Adjustable Drop Links Mono ball wishbones Elephant adjustable front camber plates Motec ADL2 with harness Not pictured Cup Rear Sway GT3 Master Cylinder Steel Brake lines Schroth Hans Harness I still need to figure out what I'm going to do for LCA's and if I'm going to do caster arms... The Motec came out of the cup car I'm parting out and I need to piece together the parts I still need to get it in the car and collecting the data I want. As Can from the stock ECU is not going to give me very much data, it's not as simple as plug and go. The harness is currently configured for GPS, G force, brake pressure, steering angle, and shift light - so I still have a fair amount of work to do to get it usable in the car, currently seeking experienced help on that front. If it ends up being uneconomical, I will sell it and put an Aim in the car.

any adjustable drop links in there?

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Good catch ! They were in the picture but I didn't list. Got them for the rear, been installed on the front since I did the Ohlins.

Just discovered your thread and had to subscribe. Really looking forward to reading through all of it and maybe picking up some tips for my own track-focused 996. For my next mods I'm thinking Cup Car shifter cables, SS brake lines, and exhaust work. Not sure about going to a full muffler delete.

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Welcome ! FWIW muffler deletes absolutely best smiles per dollar mod I have ever done. Feel free to take a trip to my YT channel link in sig to follow build there as well.

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Thanks! For me, I still drive my 996 on the street here and the local po-po don't take kindly to excessively loud cars, even tho they seem to ignore the loud Harleys. I do have a bit of a modded exhaust already (catless PSE) but my 996 is a sleeper for the most part and I'm kind of torn about departing from that philosophy. I think someone else here mentioned the LSD. I have one out of a 996 GT3 in mine and it's probably been the best mod for the track (well, maybe after the Ohlins). Makes exiting a corner even more awesome!

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Nice on the LSD... I hear you on the sleeper, mine is driven sparingly on the road - when I need to, clutch in for a quick quiet her down

I am drooling over your list of parts to work with and the direction of your car. Hopefully this is not too distracting, but I was crew on a race team this weekend at COTA in Texas. The reason I bring this up was there was a 996 race car in the field that was super fast (and competitive with 200K+ race cars in WRL GTO). Just thought this would be a good place to share this.

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Let me know the next time your down this way. Bruce

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Will do, Austin is such an incredible city.

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Hope you had a good weekend ! Looks like a Cup. Look how low it sits, the rear tires are tucked static... Awesome looking car and even better that it was able to hold its own against some serious sounding hardware.

That’s almost certainly a Cup. Look on the hood, passenger side, looks like the air jack nipple. Don’t think those exist other than on Cup cars.

Installed all the parts I have on hand for the rear suspension. Cup wishbones with monoball bushings Adjustable toe arms Cup rear sway bar Tarrett drop links The drop links came out of the cup car and are a little long, so I adjusted the mounting collar on the Ohlins up the shock body. I'll do a final adjustment of the links when the car is on its own weight, I think it will work out fine. Cycled the suspension through its full range of travel and no weird business happening. Got rid of a lot of rubber back there today which is good, still need to figure out what I'm going to do for the LCA's and I'll likely be upping the spring rates both front and rear.

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Great progress and Happy NY! Mine is in the shop for the rear diff and the spring rate up, will report back when I can drive it.

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Thanks Randy and a happy NY to you too ! Awesome yours is getting some love too - did you go with the OSG diff ?

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Yes, the P/N isn�t a perfect match, but OSG said it would fit. Let�s hope for the best (fingers crossed emoji ). Added in a new clutch and new rear wheel bearings while it is apart.

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Nice - you'll have to shoot me the details on the OSG - maybe I'll get myself a late XMAS present. I also need to reach out to �hlins, I want to switch to a stiffer spring for this season and will likely have them do a revalve/rebuild at the end of this season.

Updates: (SHAMELESS PLUG) Listed my MY02's for sale to fund an Aim System I'm working with Matt Romanowski from Trailbrake.net on (Matt's the man). I am going for an MXL2 dash logger which comes with GPS and an accelerometer. I'll be getting Coolant temp from CAN along with TPS, and RPM. Additionally I will be adding sensors for steering angle, brake pressure, oil pressure and oil temp. This will allow me to log with extreme accuracy these parameters both on track and on the street. I am at the point where I want data on stuff like deep sumps, 3rd radiators etc... and how much of a difference these things actually make (and if it seems likely my motor is going to lunch itself in the near future due to, oh I don't know...low oil pressure going through a certain turn despite my deep sump) - this will allow me to understand and speak about the answers in a data driven way. I'm hoping that others may find it helpful as well. The system will also share a lot of data points to help me improve my driving as well. On to the car... Removed the AC system components and accessible lines. Getting the AC compressor weight off the back of the car is nice, not a lot of low hanging fruit back there for weight reduction for me at this point and also removed the condensers from in front of the rads hopefully allowing them to do their job a little better. The compressor removal also makes a lot more room in the engine compartment for inspection and servicing which is a big one for me, whatever I can do to make the car more serviceable is worth thinking about doing. I plan on going electric PS in the future and when that goes down I will remove all lines from both systems, for now, this works. On the suspension front I installed adjustable top mounts in the front so I can #stancenation 2021 her out with all the camber Finally - carpet is out, cleaned up what was left of the center console moving the window wiring up to mount in my CF radio delete (still need to actually get mounted), installed a Rennline track mat for me, you get nothing !, mounted my 2in shoulder Schroth for Hans comparability and moved the 3in harness over to the passenger side. Just waiting on some hardware for the passenger harness and the seat can go back in. I'm going to be playing with the door cards over the next little bit and hope to have something simple and not horrifically ugly made up soon.

Great progress 👌

Zbomb, Looking forward to your findings.

Tied up a lot of loose ends today. Pass harness is in and seat back to where it belongs, sub belt to eye bolts backed with backing plate and used all Schroth hardware. Decided I was going to change up the radio delete and integrate the CC control box in addition to adding the window buttons, I'm really happy with the way it came out. I would really like to get rid of the CC box and just use a couple ***** for heater and fans but that is a project for another day. I've got plenty of room in the plate for additional buttons and kill switch. Last interior project for the winter is making door cards and getting the door handle (pull) situated. I have materials on the way for that. Finally got my AC delete squared away - thanks to Skip for advising the right belt PN, no thanks to FCP for subbing in a belt that was too short. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...911-crp-6k1930 I spent a fair amount of time trying to get it fitted and it was just coming up short. Bought the OE Porsche belt off Amazon and it fit like it should. The PN you need for NON AC is 996 102 151 65 I'm liking the way my engine bay is looking. Also, looks like thanks to an awesome rennlister friend I may have a pretty cool update I was not expecting in a couple weeks so stay tuned for that ! Need to get started pulling the trans in preparation for it's arrival and if anyone has G50 stub hubs, hit me up.

Don�t know if you have the handle sorted out, but these might work nicely since you are making your own panels. https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...N-DH19-BLK-RED

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Thanks for the link Tom, they're on my radar - been wondering if I can recreate something half as nice for 10% the money... they're my fallback at the moment.

I know nothing about how these were made, but a car that was for sale on here awhile back had some really nice custom door cards. https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...-in-parts.html For my car, I found a set of early Boxster door card cards that have no speakers (nor the little pockets like the GT3 cards). I need to get them reupholstered in Savanna leather though because they're black. They weight practically nothing. Here's a set for example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-Box...EAAOSwZQpf-d1j

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Yup, the setup on the GT3 is the ***** - I can tell you now - mine will not be that nice. I know this cause I will be making them and that craftsmanship is beyond my patience, and most importantly - skill level.

very cool. do the window switches fit into the horseshoe blanks? then could leave that panel area for other things.

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They would have. May end up there in the future. Right now, don't have anything else to put there with the exception of a kill switch. If I can figure a way to get rid of the climate control box and just use *****, the whole thing will be redone.

Getting rid of the CCU is a common ask for the 964 crowd since it's so god awfully expensive but the answer from ToreB is that there's nothing "simpler" that you can replace it with. I think the same plus some would apply to the 996 unit.

I'm picturing a row of throw switches like in a GT40. https://watsons-streetworks.com/prod...s-no-dividers/ maybe that's better suited for Ryan's hotrod build

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There is a ****-based heater box for 986/996, I think it was Europe only. Amazingly the electronic heater box is lighter and simpler. Since the 996 heater box is the same as used on Mk4 VW's (Golf/Jetta from 1999-2005) you can always swap to a ****-operated VW heater box as they are plentiful in junkyards. Of course this requires removal of the dash etc to get at the heater box. Europe got a A/C delete VW Mk4 heater box, I have never seen one in the USA. I guess there is not much need for A/C in Finland.

i'm going to be removing a set of early 986 door panels with no airbag and no speakers in black leather if someone is interested.

The idea of getting rid of the CCU is because I only need heat for defrost. I need to look into what the Cup solution for this is - the cup car I have here has a heater box in it... I won't be pulling the dash this winter though. Been doing a lot of thinking on the doors and door cards. Feeling the weight difference between the cup door and street car is, dramatic. I'm thinking about what weight can be pulled out of the stock door while leaving the power window in tact. I would really like to swap the glass out for lexan that could still be raised and lowered with the factory setup, or even better, a manual crank. There is a lot of structure that can be removed from the stock door while leaving the window mechanism in place, it may also greatly simplify the door card situation by making the mounting points much closer to a flat plane then they currently are. Then there is the whole taking a death wheel to the stock doors thing, while the car has gone very far from factory fresh, the only holes or cuts I've made were for the sub belt mounting plates and hacking away at the door for a couple pounds has me wavering. I am kind of addicted to the weight loss thing though and the challenge of maintaining at least a bit of street car stuff while doing it. If anyone is interested in seeing my crazy idea for cutting up a perfectly good factory door - let me know.

Used doors are cheap, if you ever want to go back to stock. Not so easy to ship, but the door shells are pretty cheap.

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Those are gorgeous. If I had a blanked panel available like zbomb I'd use those in a heart beat.

BTW - In case anyone was wondering, AC Compressor weighed in at 16LBS. Pretty good chunk of weight to pull off the back of the car.

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Good to know. How much did heater blower weigh or you leave it?

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Heater box stays. Need windshield defrost.

yeah i contemplated pulling mine out but decided defrost was worth the weight. Leaving AC for now too, but probably pull down the road.

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I went the last full driving season without touching the AC, that was enough for me to shed the weight. I think the not obvious piece that most may not think about with regards to AC removal is how much room removing the AC compressor gives, it�s a huge difference with regards to engine access. Im really trying to make the car as serviceable as possible so that will go a long way.

You're a much tougher guy than I am. I can't manage highway drives without A/C in the summer. Even my POS Corrado has working A/C. I can't wait to see what else you've got up your sleeve here.

When you chose to go with the Ohlins were there any other coilovers you considered at the time? Would be interested to hear your thoughts as I'm thinking about buying a set, but am also seeing the KWs as an option.

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All the cool kids ran �hlins on their Evo's and I couldn't afford them then (early - mid 20's). I was impressed at the time with how much better they were than what I was running on my car - a higher end set of Tein and then a DMS (tarmac spec rally) damper. They also held up really well through New England winters and the build quality always seemed like they were on another level, much closer to the Moton's and JRZ than the stuff I was running. So, when I got old and could afford a set for my car - it was an easy choice, nothing against KW - from everything I've read, there's no reason to think you won't be happy. That said, a ton of people on the boards here run Ohlins, unscientifically, way more than KW - take that FWIW, which may be nothing. If it wasn't Ohlins, it was going to be a set of JRZ or Motons, but I have that same money problem for those bad boys I had for the Ohlins as a kid ! Now, I'll just have the Ohlins rebuilt at the end of the next track season with a revalve for a more track oriented setup running much stiffer springs and taking into the account the fact my car is pretty lightweight. Long winded answer over... If you have not dropped a gearbox in slippers in a freezing unheated garage, you aint living ! F

What do you have planned for the trans?

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A friend and fellow RL'r sent me an OS Giken LSD that will be going in the gearbox. Some of the people on this forum are capable of amazing generosity, I am beyond grateful to be on the receiving end of one members generosity in this case ! As there are likely to be some ancillary changes that are required with the install, I will be documenting those as best I can and will of course pass along all my thoughts on performance once I get to run in anger.

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Interested in the ls install. I will probably be putting one in during the next round of upgrades. Im just not a good enough driver for it to matter at this point. I have done a couple hundred gear changes in solid axles by i have never cracked open a transaxle. Please document so its easier for me. .

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I will provide the details of what�s needed to get the unit installed. This will however be the 2nd occasion, 1st being corner balance and align where I am paying someone to work on the car. It was recommended to me that this install is best left to a Pro with machining capabilities, so that�s the route I�m going.

Boooo. I want to see on an old Bridgeport being unloaded from a trailer with come alongs and pipes. On a more serious note, looking forward to updates. Does this use friction discs or is this a torsen differential?

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even more interesed now. I already have the bridgeport but im not that good of a machinist. I do have frlends that are. I thought only the tips needed the ls machined, i guess it depends on the ls unit?

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Dude, if I had a shop I would totally use this as an excuse, Never have to seem to have enough space as it is in the garage. It�s a friction disc. Well, that�s kind of the unknown at the moment. The case may, or may not need some machining for clearance. The stub axles definitely need to machined to G50 spec.

Well - it is now official, my MY02's are shipping out on Monday and I pulled the trigger on my data system. I worked with Matt @ Trailbrake.com and he put together a package for me based on what I was looking for, I have said it before - you can't work with a better guy for your data needs. Car, driver - if you want to quantify and evaluate it, Matt can design a package for your requirements. In fact - he's such a good guy he's letting me take away from his weekend so I can go and pick it up ! Matt loaned me an Aim Solo 2 for one of my track days and after playing with the system and the Race Studio software, it was a pretty easy choice to go that route, although with a scaled up system for my requirements. I'll be logging Oil P, Oil T, Water T, Brake Pressure, Steering Angle, Accel, GPS speed, RPM. All the data I capture I will make available for anyone that is interested in it - oil pressure, temps, my ****ty driving etc... I know this stuff isn't for everyone and some people want to just hammer away which is cool, but if you are interested in - what difference does a 3rd radiator actually make... stay tuned !

very cool - can't wait to see the setup and the data!

All the Data will be displayed and logged on/in that little dash display?? Cool !!

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Yup, Display has user defined alarms, shift ights and you can have multiple display settings (warm up, race, street etc...) Aims software where you do dash setups and review data logs is Race Studio 3

I am intrigued.

This is way cool and thanks for sharing the info! I don't track my car but I'd be interested how much longer does it take for the oil to come to operating temperature as compared to the coolant. We know that oil takes longer but curious how long at various ambient temps while driving at staying under 3k rpms.

Picked up the Aim, sensors and some cables etc.. Thanks to Matt for going into the office on his day off for me to pick up. I'll do a more thorough run through of exactly what I got and how I'll be installing but its movie night with the kids... For now, I'll leave you with this - I started making my mounting template before I picked the unit up, as soon as I got it home I gave the template a quick test fit

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The software allows the data to be formatted to have both temps graphed on the same scale to see exactly what the temp difference are at any point so yeah, that will be a good one. Theres a bunch I'm excited to see right off the bat... Does my oil pressure change with regards to how full the sump is and how so ? How much of an affect does oil temperature have on oil pressure ? If I bring the coolant temps down, does it have a meaningful affect on oil temperature, does that in turn have a meaningful affect on oil pressure ? If I open up some exhaust vents in the wheel wells to evacuate hot air from around the radiator, does it have a meaningful affect on coolant temps ? What improvement does your $800 spent on a 3rd radiator get you. I may even pull my deep sump off and do a stock vs deep sump test to see what the actual differences are, what did I get for my money ? I could go on but hopefully you get the point, its going to be fun and reviewing data will be a great way to occupy my time when I'm not driving

Wow...

It looks like you will be answering the questions that we all have on a number of important issues. Let's hope for an early spring so you can get out on the track quickly. Have used the AIM solo for years, but the one you just acquired is incredible in its capabilities. Looking forward to what it tells you.

I admire the time, effort and $$$ that you're putting into a 996. In my Porsche circle, any mention of modding or tracking a 996 usually gets the snarky reaction of "why bother?" I say: WELL DONE. Subscribed.

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Curious to see this one too. I've also noticed that at least my car's oil level seems to be very sensitive to on how much of a level surface it is parked on. This seems to be by as much as 1/2 to 3/4 quart. i.e. if parked on a perfectly level surface I'm at half on the electronic read out. Park on a street where the passenger side is maybe tiny bit higher (2-3 degrees) and I'm showing almost empty. Go figure.... Either way...subscribed to your channel. Keep the content coming.

Thanks for the kind words and the YT sub...its nice how the channel has grown and I really appreciate it. Big update video next weekend. I think the data will help me make the car better without just throwing money at it, or at least knowing if the investment is moving the needle in the right direction. The solo is awesome, like I said above - after running one for a track day, I like the Aim interface a lot. This unit really helps to get me the car data I want, easy expansion (future will add lambda, crankcase vac, trans temp and a smarty cam) while having all the driver data features you get with a solo and a big display with alarms and shift lights. Got the dash mounted and am PUMPED with how it came out. Need to get some permanent hardware in but it's in, very secure and the steering wheel is not blocking the shift lights.

Add one more YouTube subscriber.

Holy cow that looks insane!

Looking pretty sweet! 4/22 at Thompson's the first TNIA this year....

Thanks guys. CAN NOT WAIT to get back on track. Actually, can't wait just to fire it up. Feels like its been a long time and as much as I like tinkering, I'm ready to rip it. Feels like still a ways off with the gearbox out and too many projects started but not completed. Hopefully by the end of Feb things will start wrapping up, if all goes to plan anyway. Started getting my act together on running the harness. Going to get a new Raychem 45 deg boot to get the harness clocked how I need and then shrink the rest of the bundle going into the dash. I cut a notch in the trim piece around the steering wheel and lined the pass through with heat shrink I sliced and superglued for abrasion protection. The wiring should be really easy. Power and Ground - I am going to use the factory phone wiring for a switched 12V. Thinking I may grab a connector and mate from work and I'll pin both the Aim wires and power and ground from the factory phone wires so I have a nice easily serviceable setup. CAN - accessed from wiring going into the gauge cluster, I'll splice them in behind the cluster. Sensors - all plug and play, just need to run them. Sensor - jump harness - Aim harness.

Gearbox and this beauty off to a real mechanic to be married in hopeful holy matrimony. Anyone else get behind a mechanical love story ? Stay tuned ! Also - going to be posting some info for those that may be interested in the data side from a guy who knows nothing (me) but has got some help from some folks who know a lot on different aspects of the system that is going in my car.... first post will be on alarm and notification strategy I have setup.

A feature that can be used on the Aim dash is setting user defined alarms and warnings that utilize the data streams you are capturing, be it from the stock ECU CAN (RPM, Coolant Temp) or from discrete sensors outfitted to the system, in my case we will be talking about oil pressure and temperature sensors that I utilized. The dash has 6 LED's that can be setup to alert if a specified condition is met. Seen below on the left (1, 2, 3) and right (4, 5 and 6) It also has the ability to turn the entire screen red and display a user defined message. Now, I have set an initial configuration of my alarms but expect to a certain extent these to be refined over time following - my main initial focus has been to develop a theory of operations with how I will move forward. Setting the alarms is very easy. In the case above we start with the determination of what conditions we require to all, or any be met. The example above is ALL. IF Condition 1. Engine RPM over 500. This is done to ensure the alarm is not triggered when the car is not running, AND Condition 2. Oil pressure falls below 13PSI THEN LED 1 will fast blink red until the condition is no longer met AND A message "LOW OIL PRESSURE" on a red sreen will appear for 10 seconds. So, when the alarm is triggered, LED 1 will fast blink until the pressure rises above the setpoint and the screen will go red and alert the Oil Pressure warning for 10 seconds before going away and the full screen becoming visible again. As long as that LED 1 is blinking, no bueno.

Continued... I have set my LED's with: LED 1 - all oil pressure related LED 2 - all water temp related LED 3 - all oil temp related Now you can stack these alarms. So say at idle you want the oil pressure alarm to go off at 13 PSI but at 4K RPM 13 PSI could mean the motor. You can adapt the conditions. For instance - If RPM is above 4000 and oil pressure is below 25 you can have the same alarm notifications set. In my case, I have multiple conditions for oil pressure, any of them going into alarm triggers the same notification, LED 1 fast blinking red and a notification of the display.This really allows a fine tuning based on the conditions to a very fine degree. For temperature alarms I have not only the RED alarms indicating things need to be shut down but also what I would call notifications which trigger yellow alarms that indicate we are approaching safe limits and may need to dial it back I also have warmup notifications. These are blue and will stay solid lit until both engine oil and water reach operating temperature at which time they will extinguish. When the blue lights go out, hammer time Anyway, hopefully some of you will find that interesting.

Well i find it interesting. I wish i could justify one but i dont think i will track enough. after seeing your posts in the race forum i was figuring u would go all in on one of these.

Data and warnings are good, but at some point they will really ruin your enjoyment, your focus, and your times. Getting bright flashing red lights as youre on the limits of grip can be really distracting. All this info isnt going to stop the oil pressure from dropping so unless you plan to drive to avoid it, i think the better move is to do all the prep you can and just drive it hard as you can

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Yeah, just don't agree with ruining anything, are you speaking from experience ?. Reviewing data, making small changes, reviewing data rinse and repeat is fun - cant do it without the data. Just like I enjoy wrenching on the car - ****, my day job is stressful, I got 2 little kids and a wife, this **** is cathartic for me. If alarms are going off in sufficient volume to ruin focus and times, they're not set right or the car is broken and should be addressed. Agreed on not stopping pressure from dropping on its own - that would be foolish... and no, I'm not going to drive to avoid it, but maybe switch up the oil or the volume I'm running as a result of what I see, maybe add an oil cooler or an accusump who knows ? I know that if I make a change, the effectiveness, or not will be clear enough even I'll comprehend it. I suppose you would argue the gauge is sufficient info for you to be able to make those assessments, it is not for me. Besides CTS, can you find me some good data on oil pressure... Like the kind that says LN's deep sump is better than Mantis is better than FVD is better than...stock ? I have steering angle, GPS, accelerometer and brake pressure sensors as well - using the data that I will have available is not solely for the mechanicals...oh yeah - a shift light too, even you must like a shift light And QC, I like you dude - your kind of a ball buster a lot but if we cross paths - Budweiser is on me. ETA... What do I gotta do get that 2nd liked post ? I gotta look what the one is. ETA TAKE 2.... A RADIO INSTALL ???

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Interesting point. Since I stopped recording my bike ride stats, it�s been much more fun. That�s why I do it. The fitness is a bonus😎 it is cool the read and watch your progress Z. Keep it coming.

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Ok so you want a scientific approach to mods on engine health oiling and i can dig that. I think reviewing the datalogs after the fact will be the key there. Ad for personal experience...yup not as fancy though. I mounted an oil temp and oil pressure gauge on the top of the dash and wouldnt you know it, i regularly look at the gauges. Trouble is seeing that oil pressure needle fluctuating wildly around turns distracts me, causing my line to get funky and my concentration to be a bit lost. Ive then covered the gauge with tape and i went faster. So data is good, but too much and constant data can be distracting was my only point. Its a cool tool and a nice install, no question

The reason an alarm beats a gauge is, it’s invisible, until it’s not.

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Fair point, just wondering how frequently it will alert so you may have to play with it a bit. But then, reducing it so much may render it useless. Balance I guess. I do have a variable color shift light under my gauges and that I really like.

Gearbox and OS Giken LSD have been dropped off at German Performance Service for install. Marc, the owner of the place is sharp and was recommended by some folks I trust so I know its in good hands. Cant wait to get it back and get the drivetrain back in 1 piece.

I confess I haven�t read every post in this thread but you have been bitten by the bug for sure. The journey is certainly part of the fun and figuring out the next thing to do to your car to make it that little bit faster. When I went down this road about 15 years ago with an air cooled I worked within a PCA class for club racing so there were limits to the improvements. It looks like you are headed in the direction of building your own CUP without the engine, of course. Have you seen this in the classifieds? https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1234476

Love Cup cars - can't drive them on the road and that's the show stopper for me.. Great inspiration though. From taking one apart, it's amazing how simplified they are compared to a street car. The lack of emissions equipment and creature comfort wiring and ancillaries makes for such a cool car to work on. And what you get with that is a very serviceable car, which I do not feel the street cars are. That is a TON of car for $60K. I'm walking this line of track car that can be used on the street, it's blurry. For now, to me, that means it still needs to maintain some street car safety - no full cage, door crash bars have to stay, no halo seat, front and rear crash bars still there...and, its got to pass a MA state inspection - maintain OBD2 compliance so standalone ECU is out and visual inspection for catalysts, lights, horn, wipers etc... I'm not into limits, this car is not built for any class racing and I do not plan to ever change that. I know people will say that a car like this is worth a lot more built to a popular spec class - that may be true but it's not what I want to do with it. Maybe some time trials where the stuff I've done will out class its competitiveness, who cares ! I just build it to have fun. When the 4 tires hit the ground again in the spring - I don't think any Porsche guy would slide into the Recaro, turn the key and not be excited to take it for a rip. I am, every single time I get in it.

Amen Brother

[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:] https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1106x711/qi8fuiugsiyhjjcwv9dcdq_thumb_23be_f2ee79e4fc451bc2f416150b640881d49cd0a030.jpg

Soon to be remotely mounted check engine light.

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For some reason I thought you had a lip. I have a couple extra including a GT3 and a Cup lip... I could probably send you one if you wanted it.

If zbomb doesn't want the GT3 lip, I'll buy it from you as long as it's for a Gen 2. I got an 02 996.

Yes, it always seems that sugar-free costs much more.....

Just finished hooking the AIM up to power CAN and final mounting. Looks like so far so good, picking up coolant temp at least. I'll have some more details on the install shortly, got to run to an engagement... But for now quick teaser. Notice the little red LED on the bottom left, that's wired to the CEL... You Tube

Aim supplies a really nice Motorsports style wire harness to facilitate install of the dash display. Power and ground, 4 0-5V channels, GPS, K line (if using OBD data stream, RPM, CAN + and CAN -. USB port Not my picture For my application: I wired switched power and ground from the unused factory cell phone wiring. Brown is ground and green/black is switched 12V power. This is a really convenient place to pull switched power from BTW. This is the connector - Not my picture (Thanks Skip for confirming) I chose to use the CAN data stream for the fast logging rate it allows. Available on the CAN stream are: RPM Speed 1 Pedal position sensor Engine moment Engine coolant temperature Intake air temperature Brake switch I accessed the CAN + and CAN - lines from harness that plugs into the gauge cluster green connector. The benefit of this location is I already had everything apart and the wiring supplied is plenty long to reach without having to add any additional length - the down side is the combination of cold temps and old connectors meant each one of the 3 main connectors that plug into the cluster broke to some degree installing. The alternative location is directly at the ECU. I unplugged the 2 wires I needed from the connector, stripped a section of each wire and soldered in the wires from the AIM harness, then I shrink tubed the connections. The CAN wires are a twisted pair, before I plugged the wires back into the connector I re-twisted them. FROM AIM The USB access runs behind the dash in to the radio delete plate where it is mounted. It is a mini USB connection on the harness side. AIM supplies a nice USB to mini USB cable to use when connecting to the system from your laptop. Finally, As I wrote about a couple posts up - I felt it important to make sure if a check engine light were to come on I would be able to see it. This meant a remote light was needed as the new dash blocks visibility to the stock location. I disassembled the stock cluster to get to the main controller circuit card. I soldered flying leads with a through hole LED to the leads of the SMT LED mounted on the circuit board. now, if the LED in the cluster is illuminated so will the LED on the end of my flying leads. For now, I just temporarily mounted the LED to the AIM with a piece of electrical tape until I figure out a better position. Next up is connecting the sensors and GPS module. There is no wiring involved here, all plug and play. So, its all about the mounting and routing. I'll go over this in my next post on the system. As you can see, the install up to now is really pretty easy.

That all is looking great. I'm not in such a good position to go with that much track focus now, or perhaps ever. I'm not sure that I would even like to go with that much track focus. I will admit that I can't wait for the snow to go away and track season to reopen. Even with my level of amateurish participation I surely have a ton of fun. And at the moment I still have this little problem, waiting for one stinking hardened steel ring to arrive from Germany...

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Tis the season for cars in pieces. You got a great thing going, and a lot of knowledge that has really helped me. I really appreciate it and can�t wait to catch up. Anytime she�s running, open invitation for you to take it for a spin.

Well, Got my sensor lines run and tidy enough for me. Then I got the brake pressure sensor installed, GPS beacon and moved onto the oil pressure and temperature and that is where my long day of jungle jim around the car came to an unsuccessful end... The oil filter sandwich plate fastener - 13/16-16 which should have bolt right up to my LN Spin on filter bottomed out before seating the sandwich plate against the LN filter adapter... So... Best solution, I sent LN a ticket asking very nicely for them to sell me one of their IMS Solution filter adapters with QTY 2 1/8 NPT holes... Hopefully they will be able to make it happen. As an aside, I think that would be a great marketable product, getting sensor lines to the oil filter is relatively easy and would allow people to add aftermarket gauges without getting invasive with the motor. Fingers crossed If that doesn't work out, I may resort to shortening the fastener that came with my sandwich plate, although I think it would work fine, it would feel a little jerry rigged. Aaron, don't suppose you have a band saw just in case ?

How far away is it from being tight? A cut off wheel and a flat disk on a grinder should make short work of it.

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Maybe a 1/4 in or so. If LN can�t help me, I�ll pull the assembly off the car and mod it up as right as I can to make it work.

I own a machine shop.... I got saws . And lathes, and bridgeports, and and and..

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That looks like a really nice way to measure oil pressure before the engine. I see a pressure transducer there, is the other a temperature sensor? If it is a temp sensor try to get the element sticking into the flow of oil. Your picture looks as if it may be recessed a bit, which will give lower readings if it's measuring a stagnant pocket of oil. Remind me, is the oil cooler before or after the filter? If you're measuring pre-cooler temperatures it will obviously be somewhat higher than post-cooler temps. How much would be tricky to figure out. Can you add a second oil pressure sensor to the AIM? You might want to measure oil pressure at the standard location, too, using a "T" fitting so you can compare them. 42 Draft Designs makes an oil pressure splitter block that I have used for multiple sensor installs. Hmm, seems they don't make it anymore - too bad, it was a nice product.

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Correct, the 2nd sensor is temp, it is recessed in the housing after I threaded it in as far as I dared.... The filter is before the cooler. Measuring delta across the cooler would be nice, just not in the budget at the moment. I think it gives a pretty good basis for generating data in any case and should represent worst case scenario. Adding another pressure sensor for the aim is possible. It would need to be mounted and I need a channel expansion to get another QTY 4 analog sensor inputs. The housing I got is like a 45 dollar eBay special, I would have liked to use something higher quality and I looked for a while but could not find the 13/16-16 with 2 1/8 NPT from the established MFGs. That said, I�m hoping it can be made to work.

If you want to modify the adapter fitting I can do that. I'd suggest that you bring as many pieces as possible - IE, the spin on adapter - so I can measure accurately. I probably have a longer piece of 13/16 threaded tube from one of my VW oil cooler installs. MOCAL sends a long and a short piece to fit different cars. The VW's might be 3/4? I can't quite remember now. Anyway your adapter can surely be modified to suit.

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You�re damn right I want to Thanks a ton for offer to help! I�ll get the LN adapter off tonight and can drop off everything involved to you tomorrow or whenever convenient. Shoot me a PM with whatever works for you and I�ll make it work for me.

Today was one of those days... Don't have the tools I need, Amazon shipments delayed, don't have the parts, oh yeah - and I am not a mechanic, so some things - especially where something needs to be created... take forever and sometimes after forever, come out like **** and have to be redone. So... I failed to get the steering sensor mounted, what a bitch that job has turned out to be - the riv nut tool kit I bought doesn't come with M3 despite the fact I did buy M3 riv nuts, totally my oversight. No problem, do it the old fashioned way with a bolt and a washer...nope, rips the threads off the bolts. Ok... back to the drawing board after dinner on that front. Oh yeah... the best part of the day - after laying in the footwell for a ridiculous amount of time vacillating on the least ****ty way to mount the string pot for the steering sensor...hmmm, that looks like the clutch may hit it when fully depressed - I should check before committing. Push the pedal down with my hand...TO THE FLOOR... ****.... The gearbox is out...and the inside of the slave is on my floor along with a bunch of brake fluid....great ! what a dunce. So then, I decided to back it off a few notches and finish moving the horn button now that I have the Cup quick release with no horn provision mounted... that came out well. And I remounted the dash mount to a much more secure location, I can also see it better, so that's a win. Still feeling mildly cranky about the fact I cannot seem to get the **** I need done...done a thought came into my head after seeing a message from a friend pop in my inbox. I AM WICKED LUCKY I have got support from some really great people that have made my life a lot easier than it would otherwise be, they have gone way, way out of their way to help me out and asked nothing in return. Some companies have answered my emails, texts or phone calls after hours or on the weekend, they've helped me out with advice or even getting me a new part out overnight when I broke something. I figured a small way I could show my appreciation for these folks... My Hood of Fame...get it...Hood, like Hall....But its a hood....anyway. Thank you to the people / companies listed, you'll finish every lap or get to every destination just a bit before I do. PS.. I have to request stickers from a couple more very deserving companies and I'll update as the Hood of Fame grows.

Man its nice to be reccognised, though i suspect thats for a different Aaron .

Very cool credits board! Keep up the good thinking and methodical work, it will absolutely pay off. Keep the Instant Gratification frustration bug at bay. This year will be really cool with this car. The instant gratification problem I have is I want to see you get out and race this thing! Here's my favorite pic: Racing with the fall colors in Massachusetts around you. Come on! How much better does it get?

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Thanks dude - really glad you're enjoying following along. I like that pic a lot too ! here's one without the watermark for ya... That day was really fun and the track is something else. You Tube

Palmer is an amazing track. I took this picture from the rocks above Turn 1 looking back towards the rest of the track. Watch zbomb's video to see these turns from in-car! On the rocks in the center of the picture are two layers of track. The middle layer is Turn 4 and the upper layer is Turn 10. Yes you change elevation about 150 feet from Turn 2 to Turn 4, then another 150 feet from Turn 5 to Turn 10, then 300 feet from Turn 10 to Turn 14 leading onto the "straight" which is actually the curved bit of track that's on the left of the picture.

Some redemption today...Lot of time lying upside down in the footwell paid off - when the smallest rivnut tool I could find shows up Wed (Please baby Jesus let Amazon not be delayed) I can crunch the 2 rivnuts in and be done with it. Thanks to my little guy Tyler for being my tool maid and making it so I only had to get out of position a couple times. Also, found an excuse to buy that right angle drill that worked pissah. The sensor is mounted on the firewall. A section of non shrunk shrink tube goes around the steering shaft for a flat surface and the string of the string pot and the shrink tube are secured to the shaft with a hose clamp. Just looking at it - does not look like it should have taken nearly as long.

"string pot" I haven't seen those !! Nifty little idea for some electronics fab work....

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Its a pretty cool little piece of kit. Could be used for suspension travel, TPS... All I know is mounting that little sucker in the footwell was a royal pain in the *** !

did you get your sandwich plate issue resolved? I have a similar issue so curious if you got it fixed.

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Not to resolution yet QC, but a path is there, turned out to be a little more involved to get the pieces working together than just cutting the adapter fitting down. Once resolution has been achieved, I�ll let you know what it took to get there.

Mini rivnut tool came in and I had to finish the string pot install up, she is secured for good . After getting the sensor permanently installed I redid the mounting of the string to the column to better utilize the sensor - basically connected the string when the column was fully turned one side - Honestly I don't know enough about these sensors to know why that's important but Matt at Trailbrake told me to do it, so I did. Also, new slave came in for the one I broke being dumb and I got some Swift springs for the Ohlins on order, they'll unfortunately be a couple weeks out due to back order. You Tube

What spring rate swifts did u order?

513 LBS (90 N/MM) Front and 800 LBS (140 N/MM) Rear. Stock rates are Front: 60 N/mm (343 lbs/in.) Rear: 120 N/mm (686 lbs/in.) This was based on Ohlins recommendation for the stiffest spring you should run on the stock R&T setup. We'll see how I like it, I will have the dampers rebuilt after this next season and if I want a stiffer spring, I'll have Ohlins revalve for them.

This is why im on the fence for buying the r&t or just getting these. I know u commented in my other thread but i know u have been hip deep in research since u bought your car. They do have a 24hr (race hr) rebuild instead of the 38k mile, but they come with the tops and the higher rate swifts already. For me it would probably be a 3 yr rebuild schedual. POU MU10

My feeling is the valving on the race setup is what they do on the proven 110/150 R&T revalve setup I mention previously. The additional cost is the standard top mounts and swift springs on the race setup that do not come on the R&T. I would reach out direct to Barry Battle at 3DM Suspension and tell him what you’re looking for. They can sell you a setup valved and sprung for your requirements.

Thx for the contact. Yes i agree on the extra costs thats why im entertaining this option. I can soften the spring rate a little to your new specs at no extra cost at time of purchase. The ohlin top plates would work for me as i can already get over 2.5* of camber with my set up. Something about a complete bolt in without mixing in factory parts seems more appealing to me. I just dont want to take all the comfort out of my car. I just want 75% race car.

Cool, well a guinea pig for the race setup would certainly be beneficial for the community. The spring rate differences for pure track cars Vs street are so far off, I am not sure where the line is on what I would consider too stiff for street use. I think the R&T off the shelf setup is really, really good and the reviews and my experiences prove that out. The ability for them to grow with you with factory backed revalving to your rates gives room for growth. Given the chance to do it over again, I would take the same path. The next step up for me would be 2 ways and not until I am experienced and can digest data well enough am I worried about that. One of the really cool aspects of the Aim system in the car will be the ability to plot G force Vs steering angle. This will be an easy way to quantify the driver is asking for something the car is not willing to give. Be it changing tire pressures or damper settings, small incremental changes should be easier to see in the data that they would be to feel. Things like damper and pressure changes before could only be measured by seat of pants and lap times... now I�ll be able to quantify which will allow for digestion of smaller adjustments and allow me to just focus on driving and not trying to feel exactly what those 2 additional clicks of stiffness on the damper feel like.

Got my gearbox back with the OS Giken LSD Installed. From what the installer told me - Here's what he did to get PS Giken PN PR112-HA installed in my 03 G96: Cut down a tab on the inside of the case Shorten the stub axles 2MM to match G50 Will install this weekend. Waiting on fluid from Pelican - Porsche PN 000 043 305 49. Also need to replace the slave, since I have to bleed it, I'll throw it on the gearbox outside the car which will make life slightly easier. Still pissed I have to bleed it to begin with but hey, is what it is. I have at least 1 full and 1 either full or nearly full bottle of Motul 300V that I won't be using, if anyone wants them and just pay for the shipping - first to post claiming it and I'll ship Monday.

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Very cool, can�t wait to hear your thoughts on the set-up. Was he able to grab any pics of the process?

Looking forward to you bolting it on and your impressions. You will be blown away at the upgrade in stability, balance and feel of the car, around town and on the track. There is nothing worse than the inside wheel spinning when the outside wheel is loaded as you are coming out of a turn. Certainly creates a squirrelly feel to the car. Now it will be gone!

So, what is the difference between some of these, say Ohlins or other brands versus what comes with the car? Once I get done sorting some of the mechanical maintenance items, I'd like to start refreshing the suspension due to age. Owning old Mopars (miss the 71 cuda), replacing anything bushings, balljoints, etc., was on the list and I don't look at this car any differently. The shock and spring combination sounds like you could go several different directions. Mine being a strictly street proposition, 03 Cab with tippy.

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I asked, he forgot... He had the box for a couple weeks and once he started, he got it done in a day - billed me 4HRS labor. I'm excited to try it, like real excited. The cold kicked my *** today... But I got done what I told myself was required... Its bolted up and the motor/trans are supported by their proper mounts. So glad to have the motor off the jack stands, made working underneath a real pain the past couple weeks. I'll wrap it up tomorrow You're setting my expectations real high I'm just really looking forward to being able to get it on 4 wheels and taking it for a rip... Winters getting long. Well, I think you are on the right track and the first order of business is making sure all the suspension arm bushings are in solid order, then you have a good foundation to work from. As far as springs / dampers... People seem to really like the Bilstein / H&R combo, if I was strictly driving the car on the road, thats the route I would take. I have had great experiences with both manufactures, I've had H&R springs on my F30 BMW for 110K miles and they look and perform exactly the way they did the day I put them on. You should get a lifetime of service out of them and the drop and bump in handling capability. Pair that with some nice tires, the car should rip pretty good on the road.

I have P zeros at the moment. The fronts are old like 2012, but the rears are brand new as of August. I haven't decided whether to lower the stance or not yet. Palmer race track track looks like a fun time though it looks like I'd have to install a cage to run there.

Hey, I watched the video of your string pot today, I'm worried about the linearity of the resistance between the first turn of the shaft and the following turns. The string is attached to the shaft in a place where the string is not coming straight out of the pot. When you turn the shaft the first time, the sting walks down the shaft until the string is coming straight out of the pot. This means the first string wrap will be longer than the others. This will send a greater resistance change to the computer for this turn. If the computer allows you to calibrate each turn individually, it should be OK, otherwise values will gets skewed somehow.

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Good catch - because of the angles at play - without building a custom bracket to true everything up - that is the result. Also, because the string is mounted in the middle shaft of 2 U joints, that portion of the shaft will rotate at a different speed (Non linear) than the steering wheel and the portion of the shaft that is actually connected to the steering rack. I will be calibrating the pot as a custom sensor and will add as many points as I need to get accurate results. The more string actually should allow me to get greater granularity of data at the cost of a more time consuming calibration. Here's a good read from a fellow member on the cal procedure, take a look at the 2nd method he references. https://rennlist.com/forums/data-acq...iguration.html

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Great discussion on the issue. Thanks! This is what the system needs to allow you to do. And you can recalibrate it anytime.

Another one of my occasional OT interludes... Stumbled on a picture of the best engine I have ever owned and thought I'd post it for some to see my roots... before kids and responsibilities really kicked in. 2.3L 8K RPM Red Line 93 Pump gas with 100% alcohol injection 500 FT/LBS Torque 572 Peak Wheel Horse Power 35 PSI Max Boost Pressure Autronic Standalone ECU running multiple selectable anti-lag maps / no lift shift / wideband lambda The benefits of a good ole iron block If I remember correctly, a stock 276 factory HP Evo 8 put about 240WHP down on this dyno for reference.

Very nice EVO build !! I worked for Mitsu during the late 90's early 2000's during my transition from FoMoCo to Porsche when they first imported the EVO to the USA. I was impressed with the EVO as it reminded me so much of this 1972 German Ford Capri I built as my daily driver. Was a 2.0 T-88 SOHC iron block, iron head ,8 valves ,23 psi boost, pushed from 86hp to 325hp and was "King of the Street" in the Southeast in the late 70's - early 80's . It only weighed 1900lbs creating 5.8 lbs/HP nothing could touch it !! .....Race version of this was pushed to 525HP @ 11.500rpm @ 25psi boost in 1986

Switching topics again... R u signing up for any 2021 DE days? I just put in for Potomic PCA at Watkins Glenn on May 14-16. Probably gonna do their VIR event in Aug.

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I'm shooting for at least 10 days this year - we'll see... The bulk will be at Thompson in CT and Palmer in MA. Will definitely do at least 1 day at Lime Rock, and would like to make it to Watkins Glen. Good day today - gearbox back in, everything torqued to spec, slave is bled and under trays back on, nice to have that stuff back on the car and not cluttering up the garage. Since the string pot install is done I put the drivers seat back in. All that's left in the interior is the door cards... Hoping the oil filter adapter mods are done early this week which will allow me to finish the oil T and P installs. That leaves me waiting for the new springs to show up and closing loop on fluids and maint stuff and she will be ready to go - nice to have an end in sight. While I'm waiting for the springs I'm going to pull the stock springs off the dampers since they're coming off anyway, reinstall the dampers and try to get my tire fitment dialed all the way to the bump stops. Love the story Skip... boost is a beautiful thing... Just can't make up for that NA flat six sound though

The LN / oil filter adapter combo is done. Aaron (Big thanks !) machined both the LN adapter (the part the oil filter threads on) and the female to male 13/16 fitting that came with my other adapter down to get everything to play nice together. This seems to be a pretty minimally invasive way to add these gauges or sensors to your car. If the location is optimal for the sensors remains to be seen but its what I'm going with for now. Will still be a little bit before I run the car but I can now wrap up the routing of the sensor wires, get wires protected with fire sleeve and in the forever location. That will put the Aim install to bed.

You should definitely do a tour of all the changes for your next video. Looks very clean

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Thanks Man ! Got quick one up the other day but I need to do a better more in depth one where the lighting doesn�t blow haha, hopefully next weekend. 372 Subs ! Way more than I thought I would get and the feedback is really positive. Nice to see the videos are enjoyed by some... makes it worth the effort to do them.

Definitely watched the video! No need to overthink it too much. Just throw up a few lights in corners and you're good to go Pretty stoked to see some data points come out of that thing to see what works and what doesn't.

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Dont worry about overthinking brother.... not something I�m often accused of That said, I should try to not blind the viewer with my work light overhead setup haha. Glad your pumped on the data... me too. Should start some conversations.

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What did that do in the quarter mile?

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10.8 @ 122mph on B60-13 BF-Goodrich radial tires

Filled the trans with Porsche oil that was recommended for the LSD. Springs and remote adjuster for the rear Ohlins shipped today which is good. Also got another liter of SRF brake fluid incoming, I want to give the clutch another round of bleeding as I'm not 100% happy and the brakes need bleeding after installing the brake pressure sensor, 2 liters will give me plenty to make sure both the clutch and brakes are perfect. I have 2 liters of Motul Gear 300 someone can have if you pay shipping or pick up locally. Help me clear some space on my fluids rack. FWIW, a 2 pack on Amazon is $40... ***ETA*** gear oil gone

Man just put 3 qts of that in my car. I guess some one else will get a good deal.

Did you use Mobilube PTX? My car has a factory LSD and is due to some fresh fluid too.

I used Porsche PN 000 043 305 49 Bought from Pelican and they had it to me in a day - those guys are really good. https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...043-305-49-OEM

Curious about how your rear adjusters will work as I'd like to do the same.

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That makes 2 of us actually, I told the vendor to throw them in the order before I realized how expensive they were. In the end, I figured I�d stick with it for the following reason: Previously I would pretty much leave the damper settings static, it was a pain to change the rears and really, I just wanted to concentrate on driving and not worry too much about setting and making adjustments to the car. Now that I can log data that can allow me to concentrate on the driving and review changes later through data, I wanted the ability to play with it more without it being a hassle. Also, the data will hopefully allow easier assessment of small changes where previously if I wanted to know what a change did I would make large adjustments to allow a fast recognition of if it seemed like it was going in the right direction. No idea how any of the adjuster stuff works or how to install, I�ll of course fill in the thread as I figure it out. Here�s what I bought.

This weekend has been pretty productive. Flushed and bled brakes (Castrol SRF) Bled Slave Finished tucking the cables for the oil P and T sensors out of the way, I'm not thrilled with the run, the cables ended up being longer than I needed, for now, they won't rub on anything that moves and have been properly insulated against heat. Got the steering pot calibrated on the Aim, ended up being super easy. I dropped one of the rear coilovers out and removed the spring in anticipation of my new springs and remote adjuster showing up mid-week. Funny thing - I had not removed the coilovers since I had installed the cage which bolts to the shock towers, when I unbolted the top mount the coilover did not want to come out, it was being held in by an interference with the cage mount, so, once I had it out, I clearanced the cage mounting holes a tad so the top mount slides back in as it should. The experience did make it so I did not want to have both coilovers removed at the same time out of concern the cage may shift - it is a major, major pain in the *** to get the cage to align - so, I'll only be removing one coilover at a time to minimize the chance of the cage shifting. Next, with the the spring removed from the damper, I bolted it back in and started to work on clearancing the inner fender for max suspension travel - I hacked a lot out. mostly where the bumper and fender meet - the fender rolling of the main wheel well made for plenty of clearance there, kind of interesting it did not need to be touched as that was where I would of put my money on the biggest offender being. I have enough travel for the tire to tuck pretty far - thinking should be good. You Tube

Jason, love what you are doing to your 996 and enjoy following the progress. I am sure you have mentioned this before but I am curious as to what size and brand tires you are running. Just a quick note, registration for SCCA Track Nights opens tomorrow, will you be running Thompson on 4/22, if so hope to see you there.

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Thanks Dude ! Been fun to share as I go. I'll be running 305/35 NT01's to start the season. The tires on the car are smoked R888R in that same size that came with the E88's... I'm going to keep them on the car just long enough to be satisfied I won't destroy the NT01 first day out then swap them and get the car realigned and corner balanced with the fresh rubber. Can't wait so see what she weighs. I'll see you at Thompson on the 22nd for sure.

We'll all be there, I hope it doesn't sell out in a minute! I have my clicky finger at the ready... I may even have my 996 assembled by then, Jason saw my collection of boxes last week. Just waiting for *one*more*part* again. I'm set for Thompson 4/22 and 5/6 as well as Lime Rock 5/26. Debating NHMS 5/13 - last time I was there it was SO BUMPY.

Registered for Thompson on 4/22 and Limerock 5/26 look forward to seeing you all there.

Palmer on the 10th with Mass Tuning and Thompson on the 22nd with SCCA booked. Get ready boyees winter almost over.

I went a little nuts today.. First 2 track days - paid and registered $$ Found these bad boys in the classifieds, was pretty sure I was not going to be able to afford LCA's this season, these were the ones I wanted, I like the camber adjustment not needing shims and the caster adjuster is sweet.... Got lucky $$ Finally - Rewarded myself for the tire clearancing with... Tires ! Fresh set of NT01s on the way $$$$ Bonus for the tire in the add being on TE's... if you know, you know.

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Nice grab on the adjustable LCAs. The Wheelbase adjustment also a plus when it comes to tweaking the front tire fitment.

lookin real good. Love the look of tall sidewalls .

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Which LCA's are those - never seen them. There are some solutions for caster adjustment that replace the tuning fork bushing with an aluminum insert. I may go that way on my GT3 LCA's if I feel the need. The NT01's are the standard Rcomp for 911's. The R888R don't hold up on the rears. I think you'll like them. They were awesome on my VW until I hammered them into the cords. I suggest less camber with the NT01's than with the 200 treadwear tires you were using. I went from 3.5* to 3.0* and improved the performance and the edge wear. Based on your suggestion I also signed up for Mass Tuning @ Palmer on the 10th. I suppose I ought to do something to have a car ready by then, eh?

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They're Elephant Racing - https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...lower-wishbone Thanks for the camber tip ! Stoked to be on some proper sticky tires. Glad you signed up, Hopefully my recommendation works out, lot of pressure there Have to coordinate pit spots. Nice to come home to goodies after a long day... Springs on tomorrow.

Good news...new springs are in. Bad news... The remote adjuster have the wrong adapter and I won't be able to put my GD driver seat back in since I will have to install while in the car. In keeping with the theme of the car all parts must be different colors... You Tube

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I like your style... Couldn't get the Tarett drop links in the frame

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Nice ! Yours is better. Hopefully we’ll get a chance to catch up when the weather turns. I’d like to see it in person, the calipers came out awesome ! I was hoping for the bronze springs, somehow ended up with everything but haha

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Mine looks similar except my calipers are red, and my Feals and swift springs are dirtier.

Ooooh yeah ! its on like donkey kong this weekend...last parts going on the car... home stretch to sitting on 4 patches of rubber, corner balance / alignment and engine noise, all the engine noise... Can not wait to see what she weighs... still taking bets... Winner can take a pick of any suspension pieces I still have that came off the car. Off to figure out how to this thing is supposed to be installed and initial settings, couple little plastic bushings came with it, no idea what the deal with those little guys is.

And the interior is complete again for the 5th time this winter ! Remote adjusters in... they are in fact kinda slick and I can reach them from outside the car just reaching one arm in.

What are you fellas using to recoat calipers?

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Mine was done by the PO, If I had to guess, my detective skills would lead me to spray paint... there's a ****-ton of overspray. I wonder if people powder coat them... Taking a half time... I finished a door panel... What can I say I love about it... I won't slice my arm on the metal door frame... that's about it. Hats off to RyanH for his very nice looking setup... Mine, not so much. I'm going to run with it but likely change it up to something more like cutting the not needed sections of the door our and just putting a flat carbon panel in. Also, half way through the LCA install... Ball joints not my favorite thing to mess with.

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Had mine powder coated locally. Thought about painting but wasn't sure how much prep work would be necessary. In my research this paint seemed to be well regarded (after the proper prep work): https://www.g2usa.com/product/G3.html

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Nice - They came out so good ! Did you rebuild the calipers in the process... Cause I'm cheap and like to dream I'd love to know ballpark pricing for the work you had done.

Thx. Powder coating was $500 total. ZZ Powdercoating in New London, CT. Small father-son operation (also gonna have them ceramic coat my full exhaust one I'm happy with it). Rebuilt the calipers (reused pistons as they looked great), upgraded the rubber lines to Speigler, and replaced the short lines between the brackets and calipers. Buy the rebuild kit from FCP. Thought I was able to find the Genuine seals for cheap elsewhere, but turned out to be only one size of the dust boots and nothing else. My detailed spreadsheet is on my office computer, but I think I'm all in on brakes for about a grand. Pads and rotors were done just before I got the car, so no rush to upgrade those.

$1K for the refinish and rebuild sounds very reasonable to me, especially with the quality of the job. New London about an hour from me, I'd be happy to give small father / son shop the biz... I'll reach out to them if / when ready - prob at end of season if I decide to stick with the stock calipers which I'd say is very likely. Thanks for the info brother ! So... LCA’s are in. Tomorrow torque check on all suspension, change the plugs out and fluid check and we’ll be ready to put wheels / tires back in and be back on the ground.

I'm smoked... Long day. Changed plugs Installed Demon Speed toe lock out Touched and torqued to spec every bolt in the suspension Skid plate back on Power Steering fluid topped off And.....She's back on the ground...needs a bath BAD but on the ground. Car is sitting higher with the stiff springs... I am going to let the pros get her right when they corner balance. Checked pressure in the tires before I put them on and very happy both wheels I assembled were within a LB of where I left them... Anyway.... Heres a look at the plugs that came out, were put on just before I bought the car and have like 10K miles.

What did you use for plugs this time?

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https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...bosch-fgr5kqe0

X2, just put them in my car with fcp upgraded coil kit.

Totally uncompensated plug for my guys at Pelican who are one of my go to vendors and Rennline which makes some stuff for our cars that is really good quality but more importantly for me, they make stuff that no one else does. Pelican has 15% off Rennline Battery kits. Depending on which battery you go with, HUGE weight savings opportunity from pretty high on the car to boot. Thought I would pass along for those that follow this thread thinking it may be of interest to some of you. https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog...ZXIubmV0In0%3D Heres my setup from back in the thread a ways.

Rennline mount is the EASIEST way to add a kill switch! It fits great. There is already a bolt(hinge bolt) in the perfect location for the pull cable too. I have added a second cable stop so I can easily enable/disable the cable pull. (takes under 30 seconds to pop the frunk, grab a screwdriver, and disable/enable) This way when I'm going to park my car for a while in a parking lot, I don't have to worry about someone pulling the kill switch. But it's there waiting to be enabled for track days. If I need to disconnect battery power for maintenance/mods, it takes 10 seconds to hit the kill switch. It's manual function remains even with the second cable stop disabling the cable pull.

So, starting last preparations before getting it on the road... Need to get my new tire setup mounted before I bring it to corner balance / align. Figured before I did, I would do a quick once over on the alignment so I don't damage the tires on the way to the shop... only 15 miles or so, but ya know... tires are GD expensive and I plan to make these suckers work for that investment, and toe smokes tires... Moral of the story... definitely do a once over on the alignment when you change.... everything in the suspension haha. Camber F+R = Good enough Toe F = Perfect Toe R = Holy Sh... really... got to check again... no, that's right... 1.5in toe in Needless to say, going to dial some of that out before we make the trip to the shop with the stickers on. Also, I never posted a photo of the clearance I made on the inside of the rear fenders, putting it up in the event it may help someone later. Stock Not stock

Funny my rear fenders look the same. Lowered and 19's from the po forced me in to it. Then i learned something and swiched to 18's. I stll have an issue with the 235's on front pass side hitting the plastic and fan mount. . Maybe the ohlins will fix that?

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I have some contact in the same spot in the front with the 245's... that reminds me I need to massage a little more space in there... Not too worried about it as its pretty minor and looks to only happen when the wheel is pretty far cranked over. I'll deal with it after the suspension setup is done as that will have things living where they're going to be for a while. Thanks for making me not feel so bad for my chop job... That spot is a bitch for clearance...

My car has the same mods to the fender wells to clearance my wheels. Big tire issues. Regarding the front clearance: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...big-tires.html

Got the car moving under it's own power... Starting with the bad: Weep of oil in the filter area, Got to identify source - should not be too bad (hopefully) Got a PO420 CEL (HELP) Have an outside temperature sensor fault (HELP)... I have sneaking suspicion this may be from the connector I broke behind the cluster... I just need to know if its something I need to worry about. Skip...if you don't post I'm calling you and interrupting your weekend The good: Drove great ! Was able to wash a couple pounds of dust off of it. Tires get mounted and Monday and it goes in for corner balance and alignment later in the week.

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Dr. Skip...paging Dr. Skip...you�re needed for a consult....

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I LOL'd... If people knew how many times I had to call him for help... It is almost a certainty - If I do it without first asking Skip how to do it, its effed up til he gives me a virtual slap upside the head and sets me right. Would also appear I found the culprit for my oil leak... I cranked that little SOB down to...

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Give it two high temp silicone cap(sules) and call me in the morning ... Don't freak out, nothing ominous going on here. P0420 = cat efficiency, start by checking fuel trims, if ok move on the ensure no exhaust leaks, if ok then monitor 02sensor behind cat (possible causes : fuel trim/vacuum leak, exhaust leak, lazy 02 sensor, fouled cat.) Sometimes heating up the cat really hot can burn off some crud and make the efficiency get back in range.. The outside air temp sensor is just FYI , not really important to any system except A/C with you have eliminated anyway. and yes probably due to the wiring behind cluster..

Thank you Skip !....Again I'm going to chalk it up to sitting for a long time... I hit the kill switch and will see if it reoccurs. So check this out... the log from my first start and drive. At Startup: OIL T 48 DEG WAT T 41 DEG At startup Oil Pressure went to 100PSI and stayed until it started to drop at around 120 DEG OIL T. Seems high. If anyone wants me to go into more detail on the log, let me know. It covers about 21 MIN of driving.

What OBD scanner app (IOS) people using to see fuel trims ? I have the Foxwell WIFI scanner below... Amazon Amazon ETA... Nevermind - found one. But... I did post a WTB for a Durametric... figure its time I step up to the plate and pick one up. If anyone is looking to unload, I'd be interested in an enthusiast version.

Well, she�s back where she started the weekend, but a lot of progress made. Fixed the oil leak last night and flipped the kill switch on the battery to clear out the CEL. Took her for another round today and did a 30 mile run without the CEL coming back. Does sound like the cat may be rattling a bit, so we�ll see. Only downside of the run was ABS/PSM fault coming up, gotta diagnose and fix that before the first track day. Looks like I�ll be placing an order for a Durametric tomorrow if no one comes out with one for sale, hopefully it will point me in a direction. Guess what I�m doing tomorrow.

I don't know how far you are from me, but if you need to borrow a Durametric, let me know.

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Thank you very much - I am going to see if I can get one in time for next weekend, that will give me 2 weekends to get it figured out - if I can't, I may take you up on it and take a ride up - if you would not mind PM'g me where you are so I know what I'd be up against for a drive. I'm in Douglas, MA... right in the nook bordering both RI and CT, and conveniently, about 10 minutes away from the race track in Thompson, CT

Ugggggh - Got a Durametric, Yay... Could not get the cable to work... uninstalled / reinstalled... Will mess with it tomorrow. More frustrating.... Went to put the car back on the ground after putting sticker tires on (Yay) and see a trans oil leak ,1/2 my hand size stain on the ground and a couple drips on the under tray... Looks like its coming from the passenger side... Shifter seals, reverse light switch (Lights work).... I don't know. Left the car on the jack stands and will get a better look when I stop being pissed off, maybe tomorrow. Open to any suggestions on why it may not be a big deal This car has never leaked a drop of gear oil... Not a great day. ETA... I could not help myself... I yanked the under trays off and... the trans itself is dry as a bone... The only oil was on the bottom of the crossbar and the undertray that clips to it... My hypothesis, when I filled with oil, yeah - I made kind of a mess. I did a half assed job of getting the oil that spilled out of the trans when filling and had a couple times the tube from the QT slipped out of the fill hole. Once I finally took it for a drive that oil thinned out and found a spot to drip from. I cleaned the crossbar and the under tray in a not half assed manner and will put them back on tomorrow when I confirm still clean as I left it. Chalk this one up to not doing things, like cleaning - half assed... I know better than to make that particular mistake. But... I can not get the GD Durametric to see the cable - followed the instructions to a T. Guess I'll have to give them a call tomorrow.

This might sound like a no brainer but make sure the cable is plugged in to the OBD port and USB on your laptop, ignition ON, before firing up the Durametric app. It won't see the cable otherwise. Does the application fire up at all? It may be worth making sure you're in admin mode and all the latest drivers are installed.

I own the Durametric pro and found it to be a finicky thing. Pretty unstable when I run it on a bootcamped mac. Do you have another OBDII donge/code reader you could use to verify a functional OBDII port?

When you download the latest version of Durametric, make sure you also download the USB drivers. Install the USB drivers first, THEN install the latest version of Durametric. I've had to do this before, totally uninstall the USB drivers, uninstall Durametric software, reboot computer, install the drivers then Durametric. I would also make sure you are using a USB 2.0 port on the laptop, not the blue USB 3.0 port.

Thanks guys ! I sent the below to the Duramtric support team last night. Gives the detail on my efforts to get it working. OBD port confirmed working on another scanner. ETA. Thanks Joe, will give your sequence a shot.

I can run the Durametric software with the cable plugged into my laptop and not plugged into the car, it runs and says car not connected or something like that. Also on Win 7.

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Yup, from my case... software runs and a small box in the lower left of the screen relays �cable not connected� or something to that affect. Got a note back from Durametric this AM, they want a picture of the cable before they can give more assistance. Can�t take a picture from office so will have to wait until later tonight.

That little box says "car not connected" and "Enthusiast cable" on mine so something's up with yours. For about a hundred on Amazon, this can do everything Durametric can AND some things Dura can't! https://www.icarsoft.com/Product/s-3...ft_POR_V1.html

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Messed around with it a bit last night, tried Joe�s recommendation, although I mistakenly forgot to reboot PC between uninstall and reinstall of drivers and software. So I may give it another try tonight. Sent Durametric the info they requested and really hoping they come through to get me up. Looks like I should have gone with your icarsoft widget above instead of spending $200 on the cable. It�s really pissing me off TBH. ETA... the cable is an older version and needs version 5 of the software as it is not compatible with the version 6 I downloaded. now trying to understand if that entails any degraded functionality over what I thought I was getting. Durametric customer service is doing a pretty good job FWIW. Foooooook !!! Can�t do brake bleed with old revision cable.... Quite likely my ABS issue may be related so this thing is not particularly useful. Aaron, may be seeing if I can borrow your cable for the weekend if your not elbow deep in injectors. if yours is not available hoping plpete84 offer still stands. What a cluster !

So I was able to get the Durametric to give me something using the old software... ABS/PSM error is code 4440 and seems to be related to the steering angle sensor, I cleared it for now but not much confidence it will stay cleared... Going to try to get out of work a little early tomorrow and take it for a drive and see if I can test out if the ABS is still functioning, if it is, I don't care about not having the PSM... Also got this which I know people are interested in, does not mean a lot to me... I think the 1 occurrence of a range 2 over rev is a good thing...

There is your original engine number and trans number if you wanted to check if they were original to the car..If you really cared..lol

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Yeah, stuff like that no biggie to me ... A lot more interested in getting my ABS working again. I saw a thread dporto posted with the same code...sent him a PM to see if, and how he resolved it. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...sor-fault.html Really don't want to be ABS less for first track day on the 10th.

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I don't know if durametric shows actual value for steering angle sensor, I know PIWIS does. Its very simple , should show "0" when straight ahead, and show increasing value positive one way and negative the other direction of steering wheel movement..

Jason & I talked last night & my Durametric 6 DOES NOT show the steering angle. It has a button to calibrate the steering angle sensor and that's it. This seems like a big miss on their part - how can you tell if it's working if you can't see the values? That thread by dporto about not being able to calibrate with the Durametric doesn't bode well either. I'm tempted to buy an iCarSoft for a hundred from Amazon and see if it can do this. I'm annoyed at my Durametric right now, too, because it can't do anything for the 722.6 Tip either!

The resolutions to this I’ve found through searching are not filling me with hope. Replace MAF Dealer Car is not going in for align until early next week so I guess my weekend will be trying to chase it down... that is if it comes back. I certainly was in the column area doing stuff over the winter, clockspring removed, aim sensor installed but nothing in the area of the column where the factory steering sensor lives.

I have the tip in my 03 but haven�t played enough with Durametric yet to know all the ins and outs. I fumbled my way through set up as I do with anything computer related. It does seems to communicate ok. I�d like to see if I have the original motor. That said, the icar soft thing seems a little more practical for use while driving if you�re trying to log or see something real time. I have to spend more time with this before I consider another product. Your needs are different so I can understand your frustration.

With the cost of PIWIS being extremely high $$$$$$$, the Durametric is the a good price even with it's limited compared function.I wish Porsche would get off that $$$ for 996 PIWIS after 20 years...

The Durametric functionality for the engine part is really good, at least on my ME7.8 Turbo. I have no complaints there. Coverage for other systems is a little spotty. I can't imagine they are going to do much more development for the 996 or even the 997 platform, so what we have is what we're likely to get.

Hunt Ebay for used PIWIS? Those probably need occasional software updates we don't have access to? So far so good, though, I'm guessing my Enthusiast version gives me plenty for now. This being mine will be kept mostly stock.

In Boston too... As Skip will tell you... all my disposable income goes to go fast parts and not diagnostics... and I already broke that rule buying my 10+ year old Durametric cable that doesn�t even run the current software. Serves me right for breaking my rules. https://www.ebay.com/itm/qDell-e6444....m46890.l49292

Something tells me even that's a lot of money with maybe only a handful of advantages. My laptop's at least five years old and painfully slow. I need it for Quickbooks for the business, and generator software for Kohler. It has done ok so far with the limited use of Durametric. I have no idea how old my enthusiast cable is. Once you get back to the track, someone's bound to help you out with something better. Community is good.

RANT - The MA RMV has seized upon COVID to do what was otherwise unthinkable and deliver an even greater level of sustained and unmatched low level of competency and customer service. I have been trying to get my registration for 60 days... started 30 days before expiration. 1st registration - "lost in mail", 2nd registration - we show that a replacement was triggered to send, but it did not go out, 3rd registration - showed up today WITHOUT THE PLATE DECAL... I about lost it. Every time they fock this up, it takes trying to get someone on the phone, cause you can't show up at a below par service center...cause COVID... to have them tell me they will fix it and then 2 WKS later receiving the expected news... no, they didn't fix it. If you try to do it at their sweet online service center... they want to charge you another $25 bucks to replace what they have continually screwed up. So, tomorrow AM I will again, call at 8:50AM... Listen to the 11 minutes of automated "because of COVID", "Use our online", "If you're 65 or over" until I finally get someone on the phone - I will then try, very hard, to not be an absolute *** to the person on the other end of the phone for fear they may intentionally screw up my situation as opposed to you know, just screwing it up because of their general ineptitude. Can't get the car inspected without the sticker... Looks like I'll be driving to the track on the 10th without an inspection sticker or a registration decal, although I do have the paper... What a story I'll have for the trooper ! End RANT F the MA RMV OK, now end rant for real... had to get that last one in.

Ah sorry to hear that. Not sure why DMVs all over can't seem to get it together. In PA they did away with the dumb license plate stickers. I think partially because people would steal them. And when I say steal I mean cut the corner of you license plate out with metal shears! I was able to get my registration done at a tag place but rode dirty for about 5 months with no inspection as I got the car sorted. I think cops know about these issues and as long as you have a copy of the screwed up attempt of renewal you will be ok. Just don't get stopped acting a fool, which I'm sure you wouldn't

z - as an expat 'masshole', I DO NOT MISS going to the RMV...at all. But I still slip up and call the CA DMV 'the RMV' and you should see the looks I got when I called CHiPs 'staties'...

Thanks for the sympathies dudes ! I won. AAA for the mf’ing win. They do some RMV transactions and replacement plate stickers in one of them ! They gave me a plate sticker and we laughed together at the ineptitude of the RMV.

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Well, I got a little less lazy this AM and pulled the cluster off and gave all 3 connectors a good wiggle jiggle and reseat and no more outside temp sensor ding.... So, at least at accessory on, only error is the airbag light... Going to take it for a rip in a bit and see if either the Cat code or the steering angle fault come back. Fixed the toe a bit more so it's only 1/8 toe in which means I don't feel bad driving it on the sticker rubber before alignment and corner balance which as of now is going to go down next Tuesday. I CAN NOT WAIT to see what she weighs in at.

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Wait...they don't call em staties everywhere. Wait...there is a world west of 495 Do they have dunkins there ?

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I know, right? Makes more sense than naming them after a cookie... Well, beyond the Quabbin, things get 'different'... This is where you'll disown me...dunkin coffee tastes like boiled dirty sock water. We have Peet's out here and it's as good as the old Coffee Connection in Havahhd Sq.

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Nah man, you're good... we just don't tell people on the outside it tastes like ****. And...we drink it anyway. If you come back home for a visit... drinks on me. PS... "different" this is where I'll disown you, CA made you soft as a pillow... we use other words 'round these parts

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Ahhhh! I went there the LAST DAY they were open as the Coffee Connection... I used to live in Allston Rock City.

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Score! I'll see if I have those cluster plugs later. Which color do you need?

Hey, I might have missed it, do you have a before weight?

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The blue one is the worst off, thanks ! Weighed 3008 LBS with a half tank of gas last time it was on the scales. At the time for weight reduction it had: Sparco drivers seat Muffler delete Coil overs Removed spare and tools I think that was about it.... Guessed 2890 in the beginning of the thread for new weight and I'm sticking (and hoping) to it !

Just so happens... half way on my 30 mile test loop. for you jobyt

Ok, I will go with 2891, price is right style!

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Jesus... dealing with professionals over here ! Straight for the kill Randy... admire the hustle if I�m honest

I'm in for $5. Optimistically, 2885.

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75� today on the side of Mt. Tam. My wife asked me what I was laughing at, had to show her...she's like "is that a DD cup??".

You get your Durametric to work? Friend brought his 997 over to clear some some codes and it took 15 minutes to get it to connect, not the fault of the Durametric but my damn computer. Dunkin Regular and what�s the beer on the hood of the car?

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Pond Farm Brewery "Hoo-Koo-E-Koo" Triple IPA. Delicious but dangerous. Hoo-Koo is a very famous trail on the side of the mountain in that pic.

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2892 Bob...

I went to one of the local craft beer places and bought around 22 individual different ipas last weekend. Had to draw the line at triples or I�ll be face down in my food. Sitting here having a nice double though.

Yaz, you effin savage. Have you no mercy. I hope you 2 square off in the showdown. So happy I called in sick to work today !

I�m a bum.... Blow all my money on go fast parts... ask Skip. No money left for the craft beer. But is money left for regular beer, in volume !

Great beer!

Gotta hydrate

It�s Yuengling not Bud Light. No sins there.

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I splurged in celebration of the car not throwing any codes in 30 miles and ripping like a banshee, she back. The LSD is legit. I will continue the splurge with many more as the wife and kiddos decided to leave dad to his devices for the night and are on the cape with her sister. Everything coming up Milhouse at the moment... dangerous.

Life is good.

Saying goodbye to stock diff. Goodbye stock diff PS... for any softees. Just getting all the oil burned off of it. Going to be office decoration.

Car is at the shop getting corner balanced and aligned....last chance to get your guesses in on weight- Quadcammer, waiting for your guess

2784lbs no driver, half tank of gas

2815 lbs

Im not sure if u read it earlier but specifically which ls did u get? I know u had to mod it and it was not origionaly for our cars. I need to start looking as an ls for next winters project.

2890

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Jason, is it corner balanced? If so, how does it handle?

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Yup, About to go pick it up... I'll let you know. I had the same shop corner balance and align it before last season and it was like a different car... it costs a lot of money ($600), but in my experience, its worth it and these guys are professionals at race car setup so I just kind of tell them what I'm thinking and they get it there and give me the why's, which you may have noticed, is a big thing for me. After the debrief I got when the work was complete - my expectations are high. It was noted that after the additional camber in the front, the 5MM spacer is not enough and leaves the wheel too close to the damper for comfort, so I have to get a couple 10MM spacer in real pronto like.

2968... Well, its not what I was hoping but it is what it is. The weight loss battle continues. This round to you QC Sorry I set all you guys up - I would have bet my left nut I would have seen a lot bigger reduction. The AC compressor was 16LBS all on its own. Battery charged out to PC680, stock passenger seat to the Sparco and on and on... Maybe the last weight was wrong at 3008, don't really know, other than - I'm just going to keep pulling weight out and I'm pulling out big guns for the next round. Car also threw another PO420 code while driving home. If anyone can let me know which sensors / value boxes to check on my 10 year old durametric software to run this fault down, I would really appreciate it. I'd like to get this sorted without having to just ignore it. With the not great out of the way - holeee shhhhh does she feel good. With the alignment where its supposed to be it finally feels solid and planted, like it did before I took it apart. Really happy with the initial shakedown on the way home and can not wait to put it to the test. I need to put a slightly bigger spacer up front, with the additional camber added at the LCA the wheel is too close to the damper... so I got to hustle and find a couple 10MM spacers. For anyone wondering, yes - this setup is stiff and I would say most people would find the ride quality on crappy MA roads to be uncomfortable. I may be able to dial some out by playing with the dampers, I have always run them very close to full stiff, now with the heavier springs, it will be interesting to dial it back a bit and see what the difference is with the damper more in the mid of its adjustment range. Here's the setup sheet for anyone interested Also, continuing to take care of some pre-track tasks, Fire extinguisher mounted. Safety 3rd Finally - just want to send out a thanks to all that have participated in the thread, watched my videos, offered suggestions, critiques... some have gone so far as to send me parts I was'n't going to be able to afford this season or let me in their shop off hours and done machine work for me. Answering my texts, phone calls or posts when I was stuck on something... I had a plan of what I wanted to accomplish this winter and some circumstances in my situation really made it seem like it was unlikely I was going to be able to bring that plan into reality - but because of some of the people who you've seen post in this thread, each step in the plan was taken. Now that the suspension setup is done, thats kind of like my moment where, its ready - and a good time to reflect on the past 4 or so months. This place has so much to offer with the caliber of some of its members, really happy to be a small part of this great group.

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Sure, its OS Giken PN PR112-HA. There is a tab on the inside of the case that needed to be milled down and the stub axles were shortened by 2MM to match G50 dimension. Theres a fair amount of variation on the Getrag boxes, so you kind of have to start down the road and be ready to make it work. Some won't have the tab for instance. I'd be happy to pass along the info if you'd like of the guy I had do the install, just let me know.

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Here is a code list from PCA. Looks like your catalytic converter.

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Thanks dude... I got the cat efficiency, just not sure how to tell with the durametric if its likely a bad cat, bad 02 sensor or fueling issue. Car runs pissah, so hopefully not something more serious than an 02 sensor. I suppose I can swap them this weekend and that should tell me pretty quickly... assuming I can actually get the thing out haha.

Glad to hear you are getting everything sorted out. Surprised about the weight. I gotta get mine weighed. Roll bar doesn't help. You should have taken the case of yuengling out of the frunk! Bottom line is you will have incredible balance and handling. Congrats on all enhancements. Just wait till you use your LSD coming out of a turn.

I got it open on my computer but not plugged in. Unable to push any of the buttons. I gotta use it tomorrow on my car to reset a code anyways. May even be the cats. Just went off the other day as I was playing with the car. I'll circle back tomorrow if someone doesn't have an answer for you.

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HAHA, Here I thought it was helping put some weight on the front tires... thought I had some extra to spare so I'd give them all the help I could Funny about the diff, there's still a ton of sand on the road here, I can feel it working when pulling away from a sandy stop. It also lets you know its back there with a little bit of general clunkiness at low speeds sharp turning angles... I think it's going to make a big difference going back to what you've been saying all along, I think I underestimated the impact...

Yeah. Depending on the ratio, you will have a lot of clunkiness in tight spaces such as parking in a tight space. No worries obviously on the track. However, you will soon be on Top Gear as a guest driver being able to hold a drift in an off camber turn. Couldn't do that before the LSD!

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thx, ill let u know if i need him, the budget is blown this year.. I set up a couple dozen gear sets a year so i should be able to do it, removing a tab and shortening shafts is not hard 4 me either i have some 8 mm spacers and 5 longer bolts if u need something fast.

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Thanks dude ! Just bought a set of 10MM spacers from ECS had them ship overnight... fingers crossed they get here before the weekend, planning on hard shakedown run before track day on 10th.

Ooof, you got sand jammed in the body somewhere? My car is a full passenger lighter, scratching my head on that one.

Anyone have a bead on some cats ? as I begin to diagnose this P0420, in the event the cats need to be replaced, I'm trying to prepare. Soul had reached out on one of my YT vids, I shot them an email and we'll see if that goes anywhere.... But I would be happy to have a set of stockers just in case. Gracias dudes !

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Here's to hopefully working together! -Mike

Hey Mike ! Thanks for popping in. Your guys parts look awesome, would be pumped to maybe get some on the car !

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I've worked at a European auto repair shop for nearly a decade and the amount of times I've had a cat efficiency fault has been anything besides a bad cat is zero. Especially on a 996, you likely have a underperforming cat. The good news is you can now do a cat bypass or high flow cats and pick up about 15-30 horsepower!

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Thanks for the confirmation dude... A couple extra HP would be super welcome !

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I think a Soul Performance sticker/Sponsorship on Zombs Car would be good for the both of Y'all !!! Jason has put a ton of work into that car in the last year, has a good presence/appeal and I think will be around for a long while...

Nice! At least one of us has a car ready. Don't heat cycle out your NT01's before the 10th! It's surprisingly hard to reduce weight. All those little things only weigh a tiny bit. I sold my VW's interior and the whole thing weighs less than 100 pounds. Your heavier spring setup is what the track focused guys on the Turbo forum recommend. The heavier fronts limit brake dive and let you transfer more weight to the fronts for trail brake turn in. Doesn't help on long sweeping turns, those short sharp turns like Turn 4 at Thompson are where it will help. The LSD should limit inside rear wheel spin though you weren't getting that last year, so should not be a problem. You'll really be able to tell on Turn 12 at Palmer, the increasing radius right hander (we're running clockwise on the 10th?). I would run the dampers as soft as possible to avoid any bounciness of the heavier springs; if you get the tires skipping along it really reduces the grip potential. You got a heavier rear sway as I remember, I'd start it in the middle and come prepared to stiffen it up. I think you're going to like this setup and you're going to be a monster on the track this year. I can't wait to see you out there. TNIA signups for June open tomorrow, all the local events for April & May are sold out except for NHMS. Your P0420 code: I have the DME 7.8 troubleshooting manual, not the 7.2 - for what it's worth. That says for P0420 possible cause: O2 sensors interchanged pre/post Post O2 sensor aged Cat faulty Valve Lift fault If you're feeling like a workout swap the post-cat O2's & see what happens. I'd do that before changing cats as you will need to remove the O2's anyway. If you do change cats the high flow ones are probably the best bet, might even pick up a few HP! Echoing what Porschetech3 wrote, Jason's done a lot and has effectively communicated what he's done which is even more rare.

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Definitely think Jason's car would be a great platform for some Soul products. Hope to check it out soon.

Yeah, would love to see a review of the Soul's on Jason's car. Do it!

Love the SOULs on mine...fit, finish and sound, top notch.

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Have you noticed any true power gain?

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Thanks for all the kind words of support my dudes, it’s much appreciated. I try to pass along all I can through this thread and the YT vids and I’m stoked you all have continued interest for what is ahead, really enjoy sharing it with everyone. cwbrown, look dope af, from the sig - you know what’s up with the right (IMO) mods to wake the car up.

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I think that�s a pretty cool thing. It�s fantastic to see someone taking an interest on this particular project especially since the 996 market is not what it was in the sense that more of us are looking to put money into our new 996s.

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I didn't get the cats but I'll be happy to review the headers when they get here.

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nope....but the sound makes it faster

Absolutely. Couldn't agree more.

Have been thinking about Soul 200 cell Cats on my 996, would love to see results of same on Jason’s.

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The HJS cats they use are THE cat to get - Excited to see you and Aaron at Thompson ! Coming from turbo cars that beat the bag out of the manifolds, Very impressed with the flanges they use and the elbows - look super stout. Look forward to seeing your thoughts when you get them.

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Wow, that would be amazing, i am a huge fan of Soul products (and a customer)!

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Their stuff does look pretty dope, had an opportunity to chat with John there last night, dude is legit gear head and after getting to talk to him for a bit, It was like - OK, these guys have their **** together, think about the things I want a vendor to think during design and dont cut corners to get to the X, a cool cat. On the let�s get the car effin finished so I can feel good about beating the **** out of it... 10MM spacers due in today after overnighting from ECS, they shipped a day ahead of schedule which is much appreciated. It�s like, when you pony up the money to ship overnight and the vendor doesn�t hustle the shipment out the door, feels like a waste. ECS hooked it up on that front and I�m really appreciative. Also, taking a trip a couple hours north tonight to pick up a set of 30K miles used cats that a YT viewer is selling me for a stupidly nice discount. Before I headed out the door today, round 1 of PB blaster on the header to cat pipe bolts - they are rusted AF. The battle begins Friday evening

Those 30k mile cats are a much safer choice than my 110k+ mile likely coolant fouled ones.

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Yaz... I�m just super lucky to have people, like you , that offer help right away and go out of their way for me... I really appreciate it brother. You all in the car for every lap !

I am hoping Soul has a way to work with you and we'll figure out some data to put on. Then you can be even more #DATADriven and we can put the new MXL2 to work! I can already think of some cool ways to work on doing before/after data reports.

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I'm with you Matt, so many possibilities for data based feedback on how some of these parts actually perform without having to rely on someone's feeling, which are certainly not calibrated between different someones ! And the system is so scalable, only the beginning. So, I picked up the cats last night, will have to deal with getting the broken studs out of them which was a nice surprise, can't really complain as 1. they look so clean coming off a low mile car and 2. I got a really good deal. So I will heat those suckers up and pound them out and I bought M8 hardware to replace the studs with bolts, I'll need to source something that will be more permanent but for now zinc plated will have to do. The good new is because I don't care about the ones coming off the car, when they snap - I won't give a ****. If anyone has any helpful tips I may want take into account for the cat replacement, let me know - I have pre soaked everything in PB for a couple days - hoping that at least eases any 02 sensor future pain.

I have never gotten oxygen sensors out without using an acetylene torch to heat the threads. Use a thread chaser to clean up the O2 sensor threads in the new cats. I have one or you can get them from Amazon or even Autozone. Are those bolts on the new cats pressed in? If so I'd heat the flanges and press them out with a C-clamp and a suitable socket. For the new hardware I'd use hardened bolts & nuts, you probably can't find them in metric so if you're just bolting flanges together I'd use 5/16" or 3/8" grade 8 hardware, whichever is a better fit. If you must use metric hardware use socket head cap screws, these are always grade 8 (or the metric equivalent).

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Thanks for the tips Aaron... my plan on the studs was map gas and a BFH, they are pressed in, guessing they are a knurled stud. . They are soaking in PB for the moment... my c clamp game is weak, I might have one that would work though. I just bought some M8 stuff from Lowe’s to get mounted, 10.9 grade. Going to take a run on McMaster and get something long term on order I can swap to upon arrival. Looking for something to mitigate the likelihood of them seizing. Do you know the thread pitch on the 02 sensor off hand so I can see if I have a tap in my collection ? ETA.... I got unlazy and found the chaser I need. Going to run to the oreilly across the street and pick one up along with some high temp anti seize ! Thanks for the tip.

I don't think you'll get those out with a hammer, it's too difficult to hit them straight. Maybe you are better hammer aimer than I am. Your 10.9 hardware will be fine. I'd use copper plated nuts and it will come apart easily. You can get M8x1.25 copper plated nuts at Bel Metric or I'm sure I have a few here.

Just finished installing the used cats off a clean 30K mile car. 1. Map gas, PB blaster and a couple whacks with a hammer and the studs came out of the cat pipes I bought without issue. 2. Used an extractor for every nut on the cat pipe studs, not sure what size they are supposed to be, but the extractor I was using was for a 12MM nut. A hilarious amount of rust on those nuts. Snapped a couple studs which I didn't care about with the new cat pipes going in and being secured with nuts and bolts. 3. The pre cat 02 sensors both required a 3FT breaker pipe, I heated the cat pipe as hot as the sun with the map gas... had galling on the threads on one of them sensors, not bad enough I was not able to re-use but I'm going to buy a replacement now and install it when I have some time before they decide to resize themselves in their current position. The cat 02's both came out easy. Make sure you have or buy the 02 sensor socket for this job. 4. Despite having looked like the exhaust had never been taken apart in 85K miles, both of the manifold to cat pipe gaskets looked great, Porsche uses really nice metal gaskets there, they must have blown the budget on the gaskets and not had any left for the hardware they chose to use throughout the entirety of the exhaust. 5. Bank 1 cat was indeed full shot - So I'm feeling pretty good it solved my PO420 problem and I don't have to worry about it getting clogged at an inopportune moment. Bank 2 looked good but I replaced it anyway and will keep it as a spare. Bank 1 Cat - notice the indentation from the 02 sensor.... no bueno Bank 2 - What it's supposed to look like When you do this job, be prepared for this Happy to walk away with it looking like this - I put one of the cat pipe hangers on upside down - I fiddled with it for about 10 seconds and said F it, its 1AM.

Werent u suppose to be on the track today? Hopefully u got enough sleep. U was out yesterday at NJMP at the MoE de day. It was a good time but it felt lile i had drive at 80% because it was only 40* with a 25mph wind.

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Track is next Sat, which is a good thing cause I've been up way past my bedtime trying to get the car solid so I can sleep without worry late next week ! It was cold here too - starting to prepare myself for the fact the weather may very well blow for my day next week - regardless, I am ready to get back, soooo ready. Spacers and lug bolts showed up from ECS, I'll get them thrown on before I test the new cats out. Fingers crossed no unintended fitment issues to occur as a result.

The ECS spacer kit I put on is really nice, especially for the cost - do recommend. Its much more solid feeling than the 5MM factory setup I had on before. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...001366ecs10kt/

The ECS spacers look great too if you can look through your wheels. I don’t have them, but @sasilverbullet has them. If I were going to put spacers on my 996 again, I’d go with ECS.

Friday was worse, up on a roof. Sick to death of the cold...

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Sorry @TexSquirrel , that wasn't me! I don't have spacers on my car.

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+1 on ECS, I have them on my VW and they�re very nice looking.

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@sasilverbullet , sorry, I could have sworn it was you. I wonder who it was then.

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Oh i bet. First session of the day a vette bounced off 2 walls. It was at least $12k in track damage and his car was toast. His entire truck bed was full of broken fiberglass. The driver was fjne as he had a hybrid hanns set up. I drove my car at 80%. I just didnt see any benifit of pushing any harder. Hopefully it will be a little warmer at mid-ohio in 2 weeks.

A little better this morning, at least the suns out. Taking care of at least one maybe two small jobs. Might get to drive this afternoon.

You Tube

NICE!

Well, that's nice! Fingers crossed for decent weather, we could get anything in early April from snow to sunny and 70 degrees.

Yup, not looking perfect as of now but so far out. I spent some time re-bedding brakes, the NT01s definitely need more heat in them then putting around on the street and I was able to get the ABS to light up at will. Brakes feel fine though and car is pulling hard. The car is handling so good. I think the suspension updates and the LSD have a ton of potential.

OT - NOT ABOUT THE CAR Soooo.... Got a bug up my *** to add some personality to my helmet - it was cheap and I've been looking around for something nicer and know, its going to be a backup or just retired at some point in the not so distant future. I love racing helmets, Motor Cycle helmets mostly - Rossi, Colin Edwards, Nicky Hayden (RIP). I wanted to take a stab at painting mine - now I have never painted a helmet before, in fact, the only things I've ever painted were rattle can camo jobs... But I figured, what the hell - if it comes out terrible, the guys on RL and the track can have a nice chuckle. Well, It didn't come out terrible, but didn't come out good either. While the picture in my head came to life, the details, and quality are a long, long way from even a good amateur job - but I learned a TON. 1. Masking tape, even the good stuff needs to be done with patience and care (way more than I put in) on complex uneven surfaces - In a bunch of places where different shapes met, the tape pulled away and let paint underneath it. 2. I knew to peel the masking tape back before the paint dried... But I didn't get to it fast enough and had a bunch of spots where paint pulled off with the mask... some not so bad and one or 2 completely horrific examples, overall - the sharpness of the lines sucks... I could have probably gone back and fixed it, but like my typical impatient self - just sent it and told myself I can always sand it down and do it again. 3. I should have devoted another 2-3HRS to this project, the results would have been sooo much better. Because it was my first time and as I was going I started to get excited, like, hey ! maybe this isn't going to turn out like **** after all , I rushed at the exact moment I should not have. So, cause I show my dudes the good, bad and ugly (this is a little of all 3) I figured I would post it up - if this kind of thing is something any of you guys have experience in, I would love to hear from you - I had a lot of fun doing it despite the fact I have like 0% artistic make up.

That looks great! Here’s my helmet. It’s waiting patiently in its bag for a chance to be used.

I like it the design, needs higher contrast.

Nice design, but maybe should have been black and orange. Don’t listen to me me though, my wife says I have terrible taste in colors. LOL

Looks like something Leonardo DiVinci would paint if he had a helmet.

Already have some ideas for the next one, know the helmet too, just need to pony up the money, a whole lot of it. Thanks for the comments and cool lid Tex, classic ! Weather looking little tenuous for Sat, between 10 and 30% chance of rain depending on where you look. Looks to be in the low 60s though, so that’s a big plus. PS... DiVinci huh... I’m going to take that as a compliment.

Yes, my tie-in was that DaVinci may have been the only combined "artist" and "engineer". Now you are the second!

I like the helmet. The paint bleed from the tape almost looks intentional. Give it a coat of matte clear coat and it will look pretty decent. In the future, if you're going to do complicated tape work like that, invest in some fine line masking tape, it will take the curves better. Amazon Amazon

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Haha - I wish I could take credit for either of those titles... thanks for the kind words. Cool, thanks for the link !

Pre track oil change and nut and bolt. Took it for a quick rip to get the oil up to temp. 1. the DT40 I�m taking out looks brand new, I guess it should. Has like 100 miles on it, but it�s been in since Dec maybe, which is about the longest this car had the same oil in it in a year. 2. I�ll never take this car off the street, after an underwhelming work day, it still puts a huge smile on my face.

Car is as done as I wanted it to be and ready for the track tomorrow. I have to say - in reflection, a lot to get to this point. Really happy I'm not thrashing away on the car the night before and can rest easy. A lot of people have really helped get me to that spot and I am super thankful - Randy, Skip, Aaron, Matt @ Aim, Rick for hooking me up with the cat last minute at a stupid low price, guys at Flat-Out for working on my schedule when they were super busy, etc... Point is, I'm just a guy working on a car for fun - occasionally my ambition oversteps my skill or ability to make it happen and these dudes were a huge part of where I am now, thank you to all that have helped the car get to this point and to everyone supporting the build in this thread and the YT channel. Beyond what I want for me and the car, I want those that have followed along to enjoy the ride with me. As mentioned, I loaded up the track oil the other day - got the level exactly where i wanted it over the past couple days - add a little, check back 24HRS later - to get to just over 1/4 full on the dip stick. I went over every nut and bolt in the suspension, steering and brakes. Re-checked brake fluid, power steering and coolant levels. Checked the run-in on the new AC-less serp belt. Loaded the track map in the AIM. GPS will tell it when its at the track and it will start logging and recording lap times automatically. Have GoPro and other electronics and spaghetti cables set aside ready to grab and go. Loaded my tools, bringing more than I generally would for first time out in new setup, really trying to make sure nothing small catches me unprepared. Driver gear in the front seat and we are done ! Planning to roll in with Aaron ( theprf ) and my Dad is coming to give me a hand if needed and is bringing some of the tools that won't fit easily in the frunk. PUMPED

Rock n roll! May the wind be in your sails.

Keep the rubber side down !!

And the shiny side up!

Just got back - car ran better than I could have hoped. Will follow up after I get cooled down. What a day ! Mine and Aaron's car end of day - front plate back on and ready to make the hour long trip home.

I assume a good time was had by all?

I think our rule in CT is that if don't have holes to mount a front plate, you aren't required to have one. Hasn't been an issue for me, but my buddy's dad filled the front holes on his Cayman just in case.

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Well, if by all - you mean me and Aaron - Yeah ! we had a blast. The track is unforgiving for mistakes or hubris though, so the same cannot be said for all attendees. Some pretty nice hardware left the track in bad shape. I already had been pulled over once on the way there - wasn't going to push my luck

Can't imagine how you're attracting that extra attention...

I feel pretty invisible with my work truck. At this point still more comfortable throwing that thing around above the speed limit. Don't want to push my luck.

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Let's just say I may, or may not have taken some liberties with the COVID inspection sticker grace period. Maybe for a year, hard to tell. Well, not that hard for the Douglas, MA PD who is itching for something to do at 6AM on a SAT in a sleepy town. I decided to oblige him. He was cool - he asked me if it would pass inspection - I told him it was the safest car on MA roads today

So, the car did awesome on the hour long drive to the track, gave me some additional confidence things were working as they should, no dash lights or overly weird noises. With all the sound deadening material I have removed, rubber taken out of the suspension, the LSD, it's just a noisy machine. 1st track session I am both excited and nervous. The group we were running with does the first 3 laps of the day under yellow which was really nice to be able to feel the car out at a progressively spirited pace while making sure to get the tires and brakes up to temp before any real pushing. By the time we went green the car was feeling really good and I could tell the difference in grip from last year. By the end of the session I was back to pushing pretty hard and the car felt perfect. So much capability. When I came into the paddock after the session I got a noise warning - weird as this was the last track I ran last year with no issues, and no changes to the exhaust setup. I got some intel on where the mic likely was and for the remainder of the day went through the suspected corner one gear higher than I would prefer, 3rd instead of 2nd - no more warnings. So, some muffler work may be in my future... have some ideas so stay tuned for that. Faced mild to severe traffic all day - did not get a clean lap. I did take 2 seconds off my best lap here from last year, despite running this lap with some point bys required vs a clean one last year - so the car is seconds faster... its a huge difference. I did not have to give a single point by all day, it really is amazing how fast the car is, for what it is... Next up will be going over the data, going to give me a lot of info to review, should be fun. Also, will make some edits to the alarm settings I have on the dash now that I have some real world experience to go on. Just an amazing day and an awesome way to start off the season. Here's the video from the day.... just a wee bit of talking and a bunch of track footage - hope you all enjoy ! ETA... Tires did not rub in the back at all !!! did not have to break out the Milwaukee dremel I bought... 305/35 work ! You Tube

Strong effort on the track, the car looks perfectly settled. You will be able to push more once you see the data (“go, go, go”)! Hey, was there a final weight reported?

Great video, very smooth driving. Glad the car performed as expected. Look forward to seeing you at Thompson.

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Thanks Randy - I was pushing, but with the traffic and first day out - was not going to turn it to 11, did not work out for some of the folks running that decided to punch above their weight. Yeah... she was fat...2950 I think...its back a bit in the thread - QC was right. Me too - for me, short drive, home track and you and Aaron will both be there... I think Aaron said he'll be driving the VW, we'll still let him hang out with us, right ?

Sounds good,

Looks like a pretty crazy track. Nice smooth driving. I really like your camera placement.

Digging into data and there is a ton to digest... but since this was the track and corner I noticed the oil pressure dip mentioned way back in the thread, I though I would show what the data reflected from yesterday for that particular example. As has been mentioned, elevated oil temps certainly play a role in oil pressure. I saw 250F for much of the day yesterday and ambient was in the 70's. In the example below, a 22F degree difference in oil temp equated to a 16.4 PSI reduction in oil pressure. This is with comparable RPM and lateral G. You can also see the pressure instability at the onset of G loading in the cool pressure line is flat where the hot pressure line begins to fluctuate as G's are applied. I have a lot of data to dig into, but this jumped out at me. The data points being reflected can be seen using the vertical line about 3/4 across the screen L to R with the hashes.

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Jason that was a great way to kick off the season, perfect weather and all. BTW your car's not fat - mine's the fat lady pushing almost 3600 pounds! The only casualty we suffered was the front driver's side marker light departing my car sometimes in the second session. The same can't be said for some of the other drivers though. If you and jenlso are going to Thompson on the 22nd I may have to bring the 6TT. Got to keep the 996 contingent together after all. I can always run the Corrado at a different track day. Thanks for your encouragement during all the annoyance I had to get my car ready.

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So, ahh... Is there like a min QTY of people needed to being able to start a gang... cause we got 3, like do we need more than that or is that enough ? Ya know... we tell the squares it's just a "club" but in reality - a gang of Stuttgart's bastard children 996's bullying miatas, BMW's and silly American muscle (kings of the straightaway...only) at tracks across the Northeast USA.

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so are you thinking at first glance that extra oil cooler would be helpful?

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It can't hurt - the oil temps could certainly stand to come down. The data shows there is instability in pressure when the oil is hot, and that where pressure was dropping, the hotter oil caused it to drop further. Ideally, I'd like to get rid of the dip there... the hotter oil is exacerbating the issue. Water temp although not shown in the data above at the points being referenced was 210 F and 194 F. So, a 3rd RAD with the bigger 997 cooler coupled with an oil feed solution to get rid of the dip to begin would be the solution I would like to implement. I may get the 3rd RAD and plan to install before the JUN track days, we'll see... because the water temps have always seemed to be manageable, I did not want to spend the money if it wasn't needed, kind of sucks that it may end up being the case as a way to address the oil temp issue.

With the water temps you are presently measuring I cannot see any value to a third radiator. It isn't going to get the water any cooler. I can perhaps see value to the larger oil/water heat exchanger. If the larger oil/water heat exchanger reduces oil temps by 20F and increases water temps by 10F you will be miles ahead. 230F should not be a problem for water temp. Also before I went to the center radiator solution I'd upgrade the side radiators to the C4S/Turbo cores. Should be simpler, lighter, and cheaper. FWIW I saw highest water temps of ~210 and highest oil temps of ~220. These are polled numbers as in that's what I saw when I looked at the gauges, I don't have datalog of these.

Interesting. Always maintained stock cooling on my 02 even though I have done nearly 80 track days over the past 18 years. 15+ of those days were at Road America, which is killer on the car for oil starvation due to the very long, high speed turns. Never ran into a problem. However, I run an extra 2 quart deep sump pan with baffle that has probably helped out considerably. Also run a motorsport AOS. Rev ranges are much higher because you are trying to stay in the sweet spot of power (4500-7000). I suspect that may help to keep oil pressure up, but have no data to prove it other than never having a problem nor check engine light ever on the track. With that being said, I have always wondered if any additional cooling would help to insure against potential problems.

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You Tube

I have the LN 2QT deep sump and baffle... I also try to never let it dip below 4K RPM's, logs prove that out. I'm not saying that the low oil pressure example shown is destructive to the engines because I do not know enough to know, just that I don't like it. Lots have people have never had an issue - some have... who knows what the differences are. I also don't KNOW, but am willing to bet, the stock cooling system is adequate for keeping WATER temps at safe levels in the vast majority of conditions, but these cars use the cooling system for oil temp control as well - 250 oil temp to me, seems hot. Especially given ambient in the mid-low 70's. I'm just super interested to be able to geek out on this stuff I could never quantify before... If peeps are interested, I'll share interesting things I find along the way.

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So ahhh waddup Yaz - you want in...

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Jason, it's great info. Keep it coming. Your questions are the same ones that I have. You are just going the extra step to quantify it. I may have been damn lucky with my engine, or I may have been lucky enough to have done all of the preventative stuff early before the problems actually started. As an example, I was the first guy that I know of that was running a 2 qt deep sump with a baffle back in 06 or 07. Same with the motorsport aos. Have a good Porsche shop that paid attention to what the Grand Am guys were doing with racing the 996 with the same engine as ours back in the late 90's early 2000's and they did a number of upgrades to my car before it became mainstream. Your efforts are appreciated.

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Aaron, would love to see your 996 TT, hope you bring it to Thompson on the 22nd.

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You've run the car for a long time, very successfully - whatever you're doing, I would keep doing it. Your car is a great example of the brighter side of 996 use as a track car, a brighter side that is not often put in the light.

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Aaron - You have officially been peer pressured, I would advise you respond accordingly.

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if only I could figure out how to change the oil without a catastrophe occurring...

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Man - you have a great thing going - don't sweat the small stuff - Just keep driving the wheels off it and showing the GT3's of the world a C2 wielded by a bad man is something to fear and respect.. FWIW - I've had a catastrophe changing my oil haha ! It was like the Exxon Valdeez - just replace the once pristine water off the Alaskan coast with my garage floor and the crude with sweet, sweet XP9... what a cluster !

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Glad I'm not in Massachusetts. I can feel the heat from here! I'm sorry I'm not in Mass, because I'd be ALL IN!! After I'd found a roller and built it up... Nice work gang! I love this thread!

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We could have a West Coast Chapter... you and my guy jobyt ... you just have to recruit another bad *** 996'r... HAS TO BE A BAD *** or no admission to the gang.

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I'm running the 2L deep sump and 3rd radiator in addition to CSF side radiators. I want to increase the airflow and have been contemplating deleting the AC as I hardly ever use it, though I may be able to clean up the air vectors with GT3 wheel arch liners. Nice lines out there today. The former (bike) racer in me kept wanting to dive the corners to overtake that traffic...ESPECIALLY that Acura (?) sedan. I was yelling "DUDE - YEILD TO FASTER TRAFFIC instead of clogging the line...." But that would have been a dick move on my part...

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IN!!

Jason, our conversation yesterday coupled with the direction of this thread on water and oil cooling got me checking what Charles at LN engineering has for oil cooling. He does have Bilt oil to water heat exchanger. Charles, if you see this, can you comment of how this works, additional parts needed, configurations with additional water cooling, bottom line: your thoughts, options and recommendations, etc? Appreciate any insight. Since we have a lot of seasoned folks within RL, maybe a few can share what they have done regarding water and oil cooling. What parts are you using, how did you address it, and has it worked? At the end of the day for all of us, its about prolonging the life of our engines. Jason has the analytics to measure water and oil temps, plus oil pressure thru a complete lap on track, which will help to quantify the issues or potential issues. He and many of us have the 2 quart deep sump w/ baffle, and either a motorsport AOS or UAOS. The next question is what else is needed? Maybe nothing, maybe more cooling. For those that don't drive their cars on the track, you can also potentially benefit from these specific mods which may result in engine longevity. Too many garage queens have problems thru lack of exercising your car, inadequate service and preventative parts and care. But that's a whole other topic.

Glenn - Check out THIS THREAD ON OIL COOLERS I started a bit ago. To sum it up - a setup using LN's Cayenne spec cooler and a 3rd rad has reportedly been done successfully. I would love to see data showing the affects - especially because accomplishing that setup is 1. A lot of work the oil cooler is not the most accessible part bolted to the motor) and 2. it's a lot of money... So - it would certainly be preferable to know what you're getting. Which is why I put the data system on the car, where that stuff doesn't exist or isn't made available - I'll publish whatever I get. So, if I do go that route, I'll share all the data.

Would it be possible to mill an aluminum plate with nipples so as to relocate the cooler to a more easy location to work with and or physically alter its shape and size to your benefit?

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Thanks Jason. Somehow I completely missed the thread. Good info. The problem with having a great car like the 996 is you spend too much time thinking about how to make it better, faster and stronger. But...we all need a vice don't we.

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Check the link I posted - it has some details on exactly what you're talking about - LN beat ya to the punch. You got that right !

I�m way late to this party, so in most cases, once I think of something, it�s already been done, which is good really.

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Just need to find the time. After a handful of runs on the new suspension and rubber, I think my next upgrade needs to be the driver.

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Opening up the wheel arch liners will help significantly. We did this on every race car we built in addition to making our own radiator shrouds to improve airflow. When I was tracking both my Boxster and Cayman, I eliminated one of the two a/c condensers on both cars like how Porsche did it on the GT3. Didn't hurt the function of the a/c at all except if the car was baking in the sun and it was ridiculously hot and humid outside. It just takes a little longer to catch up in those instances. We ended up making kits for these, but I only have them for 987/997 and later models currently :-(

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You digging the new setup Yaz ? I saw that pic you posted in the black car thread, you're car is looking fire ! Opening up the liner is a really good free tip Charles, I'm going to do that before my next track day... Since you're here, couple questions I hope you can provide your experience on: What did you like to see for temps on the race cars you built for oil and water ? For someone that runs your deep sump / baffle and XP9 and still experiences dips and instability of oil pressure - Is oil temp control the next step in trying to mitigate the issue ? Are pressure drops with the parts mentioned above down to 20PSI at 3.8K RPM unique to my case in your opinion or something you see often ? Mucho thanks in advance !

Throwing it out there... I'm looking for a budget set of cat deletes... I want to modify them and have small mufflers welded in roughly where the cats would be.... When I say budget... I mean budget... If anyone has a bead on a set, let me know.

Interested in opening up wheel arch liners. Anyone provide the basic procedure to do so?

There's a writeup on Pelican. Basically you cut vertical slots in the liners like the Turbo/GT2 liners have. The lines to cut along are already in the liners, as I recall.

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Yeah, I have seen that but I thought that was just to improve cooling to the brakes.

Oh BTW Jason the difference in handling between your car and mine is like night and day. I'm sort-of herding the car along and yours is going right where you want it. HBdunn's car is the same way your car is. I need to improve the precision of this car - it can't be all me for pete's sake. I'm sure the extra 700 pounds isn't helping but the difference is ridiculous. Now that I have the mechanicals sorted out I need to address the suspension. When I get back from this trip I'd like to find out what you have done for suspension parts; I'm sure mine is mostly original and needs replaced.

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I think it's mostly to improve the airflow out of the radiators. Perhaps Charles Navarro will elaborate on what he's done to clarify.

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Here you go.

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It's working well - at my current still very novice skill, its easy to drive and neutral. I would be more than happy to help someone else spend money so you let me know when you're ready ! Watching the Palmer video and the ton of other footage I have is kind of cringy because I critique each corner and how easily it looks from the couch I could have / should have gone faster. I have the data to use in tandem with the video and it paints an interesting picture that shows, I have a long way to go as a driver. But, I am pretty happy with the progression - I am able to feel more in the car and its slowing down for me a lot more than even just a couple track days ago - step by step, brick by brick !

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You guys are making me nervous, I may have to trade in my B8 Bilsteins and H&R springs for coilovers.

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F YEAH ! Let me help spend some of your money too ! Not that I want to be a bad influence on anyones finances... But I do, I really do want to be a bad influence on your finances

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I know its always better to have a partner in crime.

There was a great quote from someone previously on Rennlist that said its OK to list your expenses just don’t add them up.

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Forgiveness not permission brother - learn it, live it, go faster Smart dude !

FWIW I don't have the data you have but my day at Palmer I didn't see oil temps above 220F measured from the factory sensor. It was only about 50 degrees that day. I also recently installed a center radiator and while I was only going by the dash gauge it ran cooler than any of my previous track days.

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My temp sensor is located pre heat exchanger on the oil filter housing - I never pulled any info from the factory sensor so I don't have a comparison for it... I would like to plumb in another sensor after the exchanger for delta data... some day

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thats my next step. Im trying to decide between the basic ohlin r&t and their new dedicated track set ip

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Thanks brother. Completely different car now, and I'm absolutely loving it.

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I couldn't find a good close up photo of the liner mods we would do, but here is a half-way decent one from years ago I was able to find: We also made our own radiator shrouding and would run CSFs:

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Charles, I fear my questions for you were lost in some banter above, so reposting for your visibility and hopeful response. ETA... that shroud is DOPE !

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From what I was always have been told and read, 10 psi per 1000 rpm is what you want, but I've seen numbers as low as 5 psi per 1000 for a hot engine with hot oil being considered ok. Many aircooled 911 mezger engines (like my 2.7) have just about that when at full operating temperature if I get the oil hot. That's why running a race oil is so important. You need all the protection you can get. Cooling the oil will definitely help with boosting the pressure. A stock 3.2 986 Boxster can run 270-280F temps on an 80 degree day at the track. XP9 is good to bring the temps down 5-10F with all the friction modifiers in it, but at that point, supplemental cooling is required. All my data is from .2 cars where we would install a larger oil to water heat exchanger (eliminating the power steering loop from the heat exchanger and putting in an air to oil cooler for the PS loop). We would use GT3 radiators, our larger radiator shrouds, 160F thermostat, and add the smile with top exit as well with opened up fender liners. With all those mods along with a 2.5 quart deep sump, probably the hottest we ever saw if memory serves me was at a Pirelli World Challenge race at Miller in the summer. Surface temps were in the 120Fs I think and at the end of an enduro I think coolant got up to 217F and oil might have been in the 220s. The ideal max oil temperature in a perfect world would be 225F from discussions I have had with Lake Speed Jr. in years past on this topic. Although we don't have a plug and play solution for an oil cooler, what some have done is use this cooler and make up custom brackets: https://lnengineering.com/products/b...anger-kit.html I think there is a thread on one of the Cayman forums from Mark Hill at Cars Plus that fitted one to a Spec Cayman and it solved all their temp issues. He's running our 2 quart deep sump as well with XP9.

Thanks for the detailed response Charles, it’s so appreciated. Would you say that the lower oil temps were the solution to oil pressure instability or dips with your deep sump/baffle and XP9 or do you think there are alternative methods that may be a better path ?

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The oil starvation is a four-fold issue from what we can best discern. Oil quality - M1 thins out at temp and sheers out of grade. Oil foaming - Race oils have improved anti-foaming packages. The M96 engine is especially bad about aerating the oil, so that's why using a race oil is so important. Aerated oil doesn't lubricate. Oil temperatures - High oil temperatures thin the oil out reducing the film strength and makes the oil foaming issue that much worse. Jake has posted that he believes this is the #1 contributor to the problem behind the use of M1. Oil control - being a wet sump engine, there just is a lack of oil volume and proper oil control with oil not being pumped back from the heads fast enough. In a perfect world adding a tandem scavenge pump like what was done on the X51 engine in combination with the deep sump would be the ultimate solution, however there are complexities to fitting them. We did make up pumps for both heads to do this years ago but I discontinued them due to lack of demand and high cost.

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Porsche also deleted the radiator fan on the side without the A/C condenser to open up the airflow even more. Something else for Jason to think about - I believe he's removed both condensers already. One fan should be plenty for street use and on the track you don't need the fans anyway.

Yup, I’ve ditched the condensers and thought about one of the fans also... only concern is the ECU will not be happy with the fan removed.

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Charles, very helpful.

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ECU doesn't care.

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XP9... covered Well, I guess if race oil all you can do, covered. This makes a ton of sense... what I can’t quite wrap my head around is, a lot of people track their cars regularly. Lots of them have heeded the often given advice of run a deep sump and heavier weight race oils, yet, when oil temps start to go above, say 250F, which seems quite normal for these engines with stock cooling, pressure drops and instability are likely to occur even with the race oil and additional oil volume/baffling.... then a lot of these engines are living, some for a long time DESPITE the pressure instability and dips. So, how big of a problem is it ? How many resources should be thrown at it to address. There are not commercially available solutions... so, not a lot of people really doing anything about it so far as I can tell. This one, this one right here is what would give me pause before spending a lot of money to have an M96 planned for extensive track use rebuilt with a lot of trick parts... Thanks for all the input Charles, really awesome you taking the time to thoughtfully engage on the topic.

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Like you said, there are plenty of people tracking their cars successfully and are getting good life out of their engines taking available precautions like race oil and deep sumps. However the best measure of whether you are actually causing any damage to the main and rod bearings would be to do used oil analysis so you can come up with a baseline for your engine. You should be able to identify a problem with worn bearings well before you have any symptoms. For what it is worth, I do know some people are running around with an accusump and 2 quart deep sump and for sure, that's going to ensure more than adequate pressure in most, if not all, operating conditions, however I'm not a big fan of accusump installs in street cars due to packaging constraints. Personally, I had one in my Boxster before I came up with the 2 quart deep sump kit. Once I put the deep sump, I ditched the accusump. Another thing that crossed my mind is that Porsche did update the pressure relief on the oil pump and that should be an upgrade everyone should do, especially if tracking their car: https://lnengineering.com/products/o...1997-2008.html

So, I wanted to expand a little on my exhaust idea and see if it�s something anyone else may have interest in. Goal: Lowest possible weight Under 95DB Affordable In order to keep the weight to minimum, I have pretty much discounted all aftermarket cat back exhaust options as too heavy, too expensive or both. Muffler deletes are a no brainer from a cost and simplicity standpoint. The cat pipes already house the catalytic converter which in some respects, noise reduction being one, act as muffler already. Although the converters are much more restrictive than many aftermarket muffler options. So, I have been looking at various mufflers that may be able to be installed in place of the stock converters, either welded into the stock tubing or as part of an aftermarket part. Some options would be the Race mufflers offered by Vibrant seen below, Burns Stainless also has some options that may work. Ideally, the end result would yield the following: For my system already running muffler deletes, no additional weight and possibly some savings based on the weight of the removed cat vs the muffler used. Stay under 95DB (track requirement) - this means the setup would need to be just a hair more quiet than the muffler delete/stock cat combo which according to the Palmer track officials, is just about where my car is at currently. Less restrictive, more power. Removal of a failure point, the cat. So now I�m at the point of trying to find someone to work with to make the fab work happen and trying to figure out if it�s possible to stay inside the sound requirements I have. I have a spare set of cats, so I can have this done and still have a backup if it�s too loud. Contacted a couple local dyno operators so I can get the car on soon for a baseline and provide before and after numbers. Thats it... interested in feedback.

i have built my own exhaust with roughly the same thing. I used magnaflow glass packs. I don't have a prayer of being under 95 and thats with the slightly longer boxster exhaust. On a 996, I think you're going to find that this setup is essentially the same as being straight piped.

Yeah... kind of afraid of that. Thanks for the input QC. I was really hoping that actual mufflers would do a better job knocking the sound down than the cats do, sounds like in your experience, not so much. You think a turn down/up or some other trickery can help spoof track mic’s ?

So you need to retain the cats to pass inspection? So does anyone make a muffler delete to make this less than 95db?

Any idea how much tips turned down will buy you?

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At Laguna Seca, there's been some tomfoolery with directed exhaust tips to lower the decibel readings at the sensors

Yup, and they are very specific in their design. From what I�ve gathered, the tracks I�m concerned about don�t always leave the mics in the same spots.... Its worth messing around with as I have the stock cats to fall back on and really, I�ve only got hassled for sound the one time and I was able to mitigate it. Not all the tracks I�ll be running have the 95DB restriction and if I could pick up some power with the deletion of the cats and a less restrictive muffler in its place, I�d run them anywhere I thought I could get away with it. Worse came to worse, I could even swap at the track if I had to, I�d just get a 2nd set of 02 sensors so I could avoid the worst part of the job. It would take maybe an hour.

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I wonder if you could achieve that sound reduction by running a pair of those race mufflers in series so to keep the flow high and deriving some sound mitigation from the second one?

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Maybe 1 where the cat is and another smaller in the muffler delete pipe. The main problem I have with trying to get creative is I don�t have a welder and wouldn�t know how to use it if I did. The next problem is, I dont have any friends with welders to mooch off of or bribe with craft brews or good peach shine.

I think the welding thing is like anything else we do in this hobby. It takes practice. It�s not like you are trying to do body work work or restoration. I�d say you need a working design to meet the noise regs first but doubt it�s out of your skill set. What are they using to weld exhaust, mig with argon? Tig if you want real pretty?

I have mig tig and stick....

I picked up a set of bottles with torch, stick welder, and basic mig, no argon for helping someone move recently. Haven�t tried them yet.

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Mig or tig would work - I thin most exhaust shops mig and the nice stuff is tig. You have everything !

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show me your stack of dimes...

Next track day on Thursday, excited to get back to Thompson. Tomorrow will get its pre track day check over. Also booked another couple day so I�ve got 5 in front of me with a little break mid to end of May to take a look at how the car is performing and assess. Really contemplating having the cup parts sprayed black, if any New England guys have any recommendations for a shop that can spray imperfect race car parts for a nice price, please pass along. Looks like I forgot to post the single photo I have of the car so far from Palmer, hoping to get some more. Also, Cut out my fastest lap of the day, 1:54. Too bad my cleanest lap came in the 2nd session - wish I had that clear of track after getting more comfortable as the day had progressed... is what it is. Good progress from my first event there and something to build off of. Car is pretty fast, did not have to give a single point by all day. Porsche 996 - 1:54 Best Lap at Palmer You Tube

That's impressive! Now I sorta wish I were in your rungroup. Despite having 150 more HP & a lot more torque I am 2 seconds slower - and I was among the slowest cars in my run group running 1:56 - 1:59's.

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And you'd probably be 2 seconds faster than me in my car...

For an interim noise solution...bought these little guys to have welded on to the muffler delete... If I'm on the brink with the current setup - this should give a tad bit of breathing room while I get a more ideal (cat-less) setup situated... 2.25 ID, 6" OAL... cheap, cheap cheap !

Those have to be a bit lighter.

Got the car up in the air for the pre track check and very happy - all paint marks where they should be, critical stuff to torque and dry as a bone. The pads and rotors look great are are wearing very evenly, fluid is clean and lines all good. .. Did not burn any oil in 6 20 minute sessions which is nice and the car overall is looking really good mechanically. Aesthetically, she needs a bath and is sporting some tire mark scars. Just something that may ben interesting, At the track I was keeping pressure at about 35R / 32F and left the track with them maybe just a tad higher than that. Car has sat since, when I checked pressure today I was at 25R and 20F. Figured while I'm in the middle of this exhaust stuff and I had the car in the air I would remind myself what the stock mufflers sound like. Ya know, come to think of it... I have to go get the car inspected, I think I'll do that early this week... Then, maybe if I'm not thrilled with how the stock exhaust sounds , I'll throw these babies back on maybe with the mini mufflers between them and the cats, maybe not, depends on timing... They're looking a little haggard, that black grill paint I used way back when is hanging on for dear life. Also, did the environmentally friendly thing and recycled the max allowable return... Dude at advanced told me they are changing the limit from 5 GAL to 5 QTS... WTF, every car I own takes more than 5QTS, that's really going to cramp my style.

MOMENTOUS.... EVERYONE STOP WHAT YOU'RE DOING AND LISTEN ! You Tube Sorry for the dramatics...very excited. Took my car for its MA inspection today - managed to go a good long while but it was time... 1st off, I hate getting my cars inspected, I don't like others touching my ****. You Tube 2nd, I don't like others touching my ****. So, I went to a nice dingy place, thinking...yeah, these guys will do - the dude says... "you're joking me with those tires". I said - No, No I'm not. he goes, "yes you are".... this continued for a bit - he had a real issue with the lack of tread, I explained DOT blah, blah blah.... was not having a bit of it. Tells me, he's "been popped twice, a third - license gone". I was partially listening while I pulled up the NT01 on my phone... showed him, see, no tread supposed to be there, its not worn silly... he said, "keep talking and I'll just throw a RED "R" on it." I left and went to the far nicer place across the street and told him the dude across the street has a bug up his *** for my tires, can I get a 2nd opinion - he comes out and looks at the car, looks at me and says, "TIRES ? haha" - he gets down, takes a look at the tires and says - "DOT, plenty of tread, what year is it ?" I said, 03 - he says "great, safety only, we'll pull it into the bay - everything work ?" I tell him everything works right as rain. 15 Mins later - BOOM Que up the victory wash ! And to cap it all off... After driving the car, for about 10 minutes with the stock exhaust - It's really not for me, muffler deletes going back on

Congrats! Life is all about persistence isn't it! Now that you have the Oem mufflers on, you gotta tape a before and after exhaust video!

It's those little battles man! Last time I took a car to a "dingy" place they tightened my lug bolts so much I broke an extension on my wrench trying to remove them!

Those guys will get the repeat business for sure. Before and after noise videos are always good.

Yup, found my new inspection place... Thought about a sound clip... but it was just stock and lame. Although, I will say - with all the sound deadening out, its loud inside even stock. Who knew sound deadening actually worked My mini mufflers came in today, so I will definitely do a sound comparison between the muffler deletes and the mini mufflers, they are pretty cool - super small, I think they are going to be pretty easy to install just with clamps and I won't need to get anything welded. Don't think they're going to do much, but if they do a tiny bit, should be what I need for Palmers sound authorities. I was running though the suspected mic area in 3rd instead of 2nd... can't be doing that again. FWIW - I paid $159 for the muffler deletes, paid $80 for the mini mufflers and clamps... That would have me into my exhaust for a grand TOT of $239 !!! I'll be tackling that install and the lip that TheChunkNorris sent me after I get through the track event on Thurs. No sound worries for that one.

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When's the first track day Glenn ? Car all good to go ?

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Car is in great shaped ready to go. Just need to get another set of Hoosiers for my other set of rims and should be rockin! Working thru graduations and weddings which always seem to occur on DE events. Looks like Road America end of May will be the first. Nothing like starting the season off on the fastest track in the country!

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Awesome, You're a good dude Glenn - gotta take care of what you gotta take care of. What are you running for wheel / tire sizes with the Hoosiers ? I think from what I've read they run a little big to size.... I would like to try a set but man they are expensive for a limited life span... And I know, once you try them.....like crack Man, I'd love to be out there with you ! Take video so I can live vicariously through you !

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Running stock 5 spoke 18s. 225/40 fronts. 285/30 rears. Yeah, they are expensive and don't last long, but they are good for 2-3 seconds a lap versus sport cups at Road America. The things we spend money on for a couple of seconds is nuts, isn t it. One of these days I am going to get a Featherlite trailer and make the trek to the Northeast to drive Palmer and Thompson with you and the RLers. Believe it or do not, I have been tracking the car since 2004, and drive it too and from the track. Never had a trailer and never had a problem with getting it home. Except in a downpour since I run sport cups as my street tires. Kinda like driving on ice in the rain.

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Consider the invitation open Glenn ! It's funny - I am looking at replacing my DD, an F30 base model (that I love BTW) with something that will give the the ability to tow the car - I really want to make it out your way (RA) and to see Randy (Ratchet1025) at Mid O... I almost pulled the trigger on a diesel X5 last week but was a little late and the one I was looking at sold from underneath me... Its so cool having friends across the USA... Need to find someone to give me an invite to Laguna... and to figure out how to bolt 10 mufflers on the car so I don't get kicked out after the 1st lap haha

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Man... We can set up a RL road trip and piggyback all the PCA club race events at all the bucket list tracks. Laguna Seca, Sonoma, mid Ohio, road Atlanta. Road America, VIR, Cota, Daytona, Watkins Glen, Sebring. Gotta start saving money for tires and brakes. All we need is an enclosed trailer or two, a couple of grills, and we will have a little town within the track. X5 diesel would come in handy. Need a place to transport cigars and whiskey.

Mid-o does not dissapoint. I was there last weekend. I kinda felt like i had the miata of porsches as i was getting out run by everything. Its amazing what the nannies on a 450hp gt4 will correct.

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No kidding. Here is the good news. If you can drive our 996s fast, you will be able to drive the GT4 like a world champion.

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Ahhh... the stuff dreams are made of. I managed to keep a yellow GT4 far back in my mirrors during a session, its all about the person behind the wheel... It was kind of a bummer cause when I saw them mid-straight as I was getting on the brakes for the first complex, I figured he'd catch me in no time and I'd get to follow their line and try to keep up. Now - if that engine was in a 996 De Jeeper... think about the possibilities

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Someday soon, when the kids are off the payroll, an engine rebuilt and enhancement is on the list. In the meantime, when I am on the track with newer "nanny" cars, I keep reminding myself that I know how to drive and balance a manual with only 320 HP without any "nannies" and they don't. 😁

Thompson for 3 sessions tomorrow - excited, I really like running the SCCA track nights there - super convenient, inexpensive and my friends will be there too ! Thompson is a 1.7M road course that utilizes a portion of a 5/8 mile oval. I really like it, not nearly the technical detail of Palmer, its a pretty straight forward layout and the close proximity means I will run it a bunch this year - it will be a good benchmark of progress. My best lap there previously was a 1:26, I expect to battle some traffic tomorrow so we'll see what we see with improving overall lap times, the #1 goal, as always - drive away from the track with an ear to ear grin. So, close it off with a picture from Palmer - I love NB 996's !

Smoother is better! Enjoy it!

Today was so much fun ! Most fun I've had at a track day yet... Got to hang with Jack ( Jnelso ) and Aaron ( theprf ) - those guys are so cool... and both can just so happen to wheel the **** out of 996's... our gang was out in force today ! The great : Hanging with those guys Knocked 2 seconds off previous best and was able to run consistently in the low 1:25's and a bunch of 1:24's when traffic allowed - new best of 1:24.5 Cool, actually downright cold meant temps and pressures kept well in check. I love Thompson ! The not so great: The coolant flasher thing Skip put on the UAOS setup works, even when an idiot (yours truly) installs it... I know this because thanks to Aaron and Jack reminding me...when it is flashing, check the UAOS reservoir, Which I did trackside and it was indeed full of oil. I did not worry much about it because the only other time I opened it was after the first track day I ran with the UAOS setup installed and like a drip came out. Since then, I have run A LOT of sessions without opening it, so I though, yeah, maybe built up over time. Then I went out for the last session, and in 20 minutes it had filled enough to trigger the alarm again. So... not a lot of good reasons for the car to be pushing oil. The level was good, the car was making JAM for power, fastest speeds during that session, not making any weird noises... So, I'm going to spend the night being happy and worry about it over the weekend when I go over the car. I'm going to try to get a video up tonight - I hope all you guys watch it - my YT page could use the love I'll post it up when its done... some good footage today. Jnelso ripping down the straight The Gang...hide your women

Nice maybe i can sneak up there for a june event and show u slow . me thinks u need to pull out the nanometer. I had just drip if condensate all weekend.

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Oh, I know I'm slow... But you are more than welcome to come try to give me some perspective on, HOW slow... Open invite brother Yeah, I hate that thing. But I will likely have to... I'll probably just let Skip tell me what to do. All I know, 121.5MPH at the end of the straight for 5/6 last laps of the day, were the fastest MPH I ran over the 3 sessions... So, power is there.

heT Zbomb bombing down the the straight at Thompson Motor Sports with theprf close behind. Great day had by all.

Theprf beautiful 996 TT close behind Zbomb

Thanks for the run at Thompson guys, it was a great time. Here's a snap from Trackaddict at the end of the straight with zbomb in front. My speedometer showed 132MPH so it must be reading a little fast, we're only going 127.

NICE!

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Cool pic Aaron, thanks for sharing. I got some good stuff for you, still working through video review, hopefully tonight. Looking at that pic.... I got to get over and use the whole track... lollygagging in the middle of the road. Still smiling from the day.... anyone reading this in the MA/CT/RI area interested in getting in track, come to Thompson for a SCCA track night event - you will not regret it.

Whats the schedule like and cost of a scca track night?

Show up around 1:30. Sessions 3:10, 4:10, 5:30. I think it’s $160 for SCCA members. People really nice, I think the track etiquette is really pretty good for a nice laid back event. You get some swag - coupons, T Shirt, stickers. Plus, I like supporting the SCCA.

Great way to get track time, no pressure pretty much go at your own pace. Novice, intermediate and advance groups and reasonably priced. Check out the web site, events at tracks all over the country. https://www.tracknightinamerica.com/

What group r u guys running? Looks like they have a couple Thompson dates in june but not sure if u can make them. It looks like the track is about 5.5hrs from me. Not a big issue 4 me but hard to do in the middle of the week.

I’ll be at Thompson 6/1 and 6/24 running inter.

I would love to come over and meet up. At Watkins 6/2-3 but maybe the 24th. There are also the some Friday nights at Palmer throughout the summer. Rats, waitlist for the 24th.

Registration for July dates opens up in a week, I’ll post up so you guys get a reminder.

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One of my instructors Butch King said to me early on "you paid for the whole track, why not use it all?". I try - it's not as easy as it looks afterwards. Things are happening quickly at 130MPH. I will be at Thompson 5/6, 6/1, and 6/24.

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On wait list for 6/1, registered for 6/24.

Here you go Aaron ! that guy in the old stang was one of the few oblivious people I saw all night...

Video from the day is up... Such a fun day. You Tube

Nice driving. It kinda looks tough to drive in that crowd. Unaware slower drivers and drivers moving off line to allow pass. Makes for a less predictable track. Are u in a novice or intermediate group? i have yet to be on a track with lesser vehicles so i have not done a whole lot of passing yet. Maybe when i get up to Watkins Glenn next month there wil be less gt4 cars in my class. Also what tires r u using and what r u using for a hanns device?

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Thanks, Inter... I haven't given a point by in the last 3HRS of track time and pass tons of people - I do not feel as though I have sufficient experience to move into any of the expert groups with the orgs I run so I just chalk it up to getting a lot of experience practicing patience and safe passing. Whats in the video is the best (least amount of traffic) of the day. I would love to have that problem, well - thats an exaggeration, I would love to have a little more parity and spend some more time running with cars that I could hang, or try to hang with (even better). Nitto NT01 245/40 and 305/35 Hans Sport

Great stuff! I'm super jealous. Nice style, super smooth, let the mechanics of the car work. Are there any check boxes for moving up to the next class? To get better, you need someone to chase. If you are passing everyone, you are teaching them how to drive, which is OK. And I take back my comment about more contrast needed on the helmet. It would create distraction in the video. Awesome work!

Thanks golock911 ! No check boxes with the org's I am currently running with, self classify. Luckily - my fellow NE guys are really well experienced and I will lean on them for guidance. With sub 10 track days under my belt, I haven't even thought about moving up. The car is so fun, I don't feel like I'm doing anything above the level of experience I have - the car is just really good... and I'm trying to get a little better each time out.

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Neat! That SN95 driver was actually pretty good about point by's, just not on that lap. Maybe he thought we ran a yellow lap for the first or he was warming up. That white Fox body Mustang was pretty fast, all that smoke was from running too rich at WOT. Actually I though most all the drivers were relatively courteous with a few exceptions.

Dude - That video you posted is way better than anything I've taken - what a different perspective ! Posting here and will watch it at least a hundred times... THANK YOU ! The whoosh of the Turbo is so awesome too ! Fox body surprisingly quick, so was the white RSX... You Tube

Thompson pics are in... Aaron and Jack, They got some of the 996 gang in the paddock, let me know if you want to see them.

Man i spent a small fortune on that mid-o pca event and not a single pic. they need to hire this person

Really digging what you�ve done and are doing!

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love that picture with the weight on the outside wheels!

Replaced RE71�s with Yokohama A052�s but only received them from Tire Rack the day before track night at Thompson Motor Sports Park. Replaced the fronts with same size as the RE71�s (245/40R18). Had the Yok�s mounted the day before and found that when mounted on the front I had clearance issues that I did not have with the RE71�s. Evidently tread width is a bit wider on the A052�s than on the RE71�s. Didn� t have time to address the issue before Track Day so I ran the event with my regular street tires. This weekend I mounted the Yok�s and with a heat gun and a little massage was able to modify the wheel liners for clearance. Just a bit of interference on full lock of the steering. Good to go for the next track day.

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Thanks man - can't say how much I appreciate the support - really pumps me up that people are enjoying the posts / videos / car Thanks Glenn ! I got a ton of pics, another great part about the SCCA track night.... So, I think I wrote above about how the accumulator for my UAOS filled up... So, I have started some mitigation on that front. Skip, will soon be making a drain back to plumb the accumulator drain into the oil fill tube - thats the right way to do it and I will eventually go that route. For a short term solution, I want to be able to see the amount of oil being caught, and when. Is it track specific ? Is it happening on the road, only at track etc... So, I am rigging up an external reservoir to collect the oil that enters the accumulator. I bought a universal coolant reservoir from O'Reillys. Going to have to cap 2 very small air holes by the fill cap (JB Weld) and the inlet for the reservoir (Vac cap and more JB Weld) Bought 2 1/8 NPT -1/4 Barb fitting. 1 will be tapped in the drain plug of the UAOS reservoir and the other tapped into the O'Reillys reservoir. (I would be showing you complete pics except my 1/8 NPT tap walked off so I had to order a replacement...) Next up - 3FT of 1/4 fuel line to connect the 2. Last and worst...mounting the reservoir. The engine bay is so tight, trying to mount the reservoir in there and keep a nice drop for the hose from the accumulator to the reservoir to allow for as much gravity assistance as possible aint happening. So, mounting the reservoir off the bank 1 muffler bracket. Nice straight shot to the accumulator and max gravity assistance. Easy enough to check. I'm going to mount a 1/8 NPT petcock while I'm at it to allow for easy draining. The only concern at the moment is the heat in the wheel well area... I can make some shielding if it seems through initial trials like it may be needed. Oh yeah, going to JB weld the cap on the reservoir too, don't need that where we're going. So, we'll see - could go quite wrong - if so, I'll re-use the fittings and plumb it back to the oil fill tube. But, it would be nice to 1. Avoid all that work for the moment (still need to get my mini mufflers on) and 2. See under what scenarios the oil is actually filling the thing up. Stay tuned !

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Awesome dude, glad it worked out ! I always had good luck with sticky Advan's on previous cars - let us know how they run. And man, the car's looking really good.

Jason, good to see the work around you are doing with Skip. Looking forward to see how it works. Necessity is the mother of invention.

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What are the wheel widths you are running and rear size? Any spacers? I am running RE-71 mkii stock sizes on 8 and 10". They are almost done.

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I am using stock size wheels (8� & 10� 5 spokes) also. RE 71�s were 285/30R18 and 235/40R18 with ECS 10mm and 15mm Wheel spacers. Switched to Yokohama A052 235/40R18 and 295/30R18 hoping the Yok�s to be a little more consistent on the track. Have not run the Yokohama�s yet.

The Gang - theprf , Jnelso and yours truly

Finished up the reservoir and drilled and tapped the UAOS accumulator plug for the barbed fitting... Talk about hokey - if it works, it works but I'm not in love with it. Would be really nice to have a proper fitting setup for the accumulator drain as opposed to drilling out the plug. The space is going to be really tight as the hose from the SAI runs almost right under the drain for the UAOS accumulator... we'll see... I'll let the gasket maker set and put the stuff in tomorrow.

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That�s an awesome vid.

Synced (as close as I could, really need to learn and be more patient editing) up a lap and change with Aaron’s video for the split screen, I thought a cool perspective. Big thanks to Aaron for letting me use the video. A lap from 2 Perspectives - Porsche 996 You Tube

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You're welcome. That's really neat. I need some more camber up front to be able to keep up with you next time. Wasn't exactly easy... you were hauling the mail.

It was a lot of fun running with you Aaron ! With your driving and the Turbo power... car will be a weapon as you refine it.

For anyone interested... Finished the install of the hack job accumulator for the UAOS accumulator... I kind of hate it. Showing you all cause I try to show the good and the bad... I'm going to give it a whirl. I have some extra drain plugs Skip is sending - if it leaks oil or creates a Vac leak (was air tight before I mounted it) - I'm going to throw the whole thing in the woods and go back to the way it was. Skip, It would be really good if we could get a 90 Deg fitting for the accumulator drain... If it's going to leak - it's likely going to be at the tapped connection in the plastic drain plug. That very well may be because I sucked putting the barbed fitting in, but to drill the hole for the 1/8 NPT and not take out the threads of the plug... quite the little operation. I'll let you guys know if it works out... or if you can go looking for the whole thing in the woods of MA somewhere. REV 1

Don't want to be the harbinger of doom, but that looks awfully close to the rear tire. Years ago in my first P-car (986 Boxster), I think it was during my 3rd track event, it blew out a cam plug on the track which led to a very exciting event with the car spinning around and going down the front straight backwards at about 70 mph, inches from a concrete wall! Got lucky with it but I have been extra cautious about my car's condition for track events ever since.

No worries... the picture makes it look like it’s a lot closer than it actually is. It was something that was on my mind when placing it.

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I have spent hours trying to source nice fittings and was just about to give up and have my CNC guy custom make some 90* banjo bolt fittings with appropriate threads ect, but then I think I found some, ( fits old Harley Big Twin heads for breather fittings) had to order the banjo and bolts separate from different places, so will take a while to see if they are perfect fit, but a lot less time than going to the drawing board. Quality takes time....

Nice... I spent a fair amount of time looking and gave up... I knew you’d have something up your sleeve though.

That would be nice to be able to relocate a valve for draining, especially at the track. It's a bit warm there around the aluminum accumulator after driving. I use a cut down Solo cup to slide under the accumulator drain plug to capture any oil that drains. That's fine for normal daily driving, but perhaps not for the track. A relocated valve under the rear bumper would be great!

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Hehe... I have a nice little kiss on my arm from cleaning up oil after emptying at the track. Bit warm... and then some haha.

Happy Weekend Boys ! You Tube

July SCCA track night registration open. I’ll be at Thompson on the 13th. Hope to see some of you guys there.

Installed the mini mufflers - Not the permanent setup but enough to let me know if I'm going to run them full time, in which case, I'll get some nice turn downs or have someone fab me up an outlet from the mufflers that will get the tips back to the stock location. If I don't like them - I'll use it setup as shown at the tracks I'm on the cusp with sound. Bad news - one of the exhaust tip cover things disintegrated off my muffler deletes - so, a little added motivation to make the mini muffler setup work. Sound clips tomorrow. Also - I listened to Aaron, and likely some of you who thought it, and myself, and threw the plastic catch can in the woods. Bought an aluminum tank, redid the connections, added the right hose clamps, added vibration damping and now I feel a ton better about it. To empty I just loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the muffler bracket, slide the unit back and out of the clamps, undue the cap and pour. As long as the fitting installed in the UAOS accumulator drain plug doesn't **** oil, it will work.

Jason, ​​​​​​Glad you got the uaos mod in place. My motorsport aos is still working but I plan on replacing it with the uaos. I can see the benefit of being able to drain it. Do you know if Skip is working on additional options on the uaos to add this feature as an auxiliary option? Don't know if I can successfully do it myself without having to buy three sets of parts for all of the mistakes I will make.

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Haha - buying multiple sets of stuff for the planned 2nd try's can be good practice Glenn - Ask me how I know ! Skip is working on a setup that will allow the drain on the accumulator to be plumbed into the oil fill tube - this closes the loop in the system and will make it maintenance free. I'll probably go that route - but not until I either have to remove all the stuff in the way from changing the fill tube, or this winter. The real sticking point on either - drain from accumulator to fill tube or to an external catch can like I did here - is getting the right fitting for the UAOS accumulator so modifying the drain plug it not required. I know he is working on sorting that out - so it's a temporary problem. If that was the case, and you could just remove the old drain plug and put the fitting in - the setup that I did would take 15 minutes to install... Mind you - I have a lot of real estate to work with with the muffler removed and that allows for a really nice straight shot for the line from the accumulator to the catch can so gravity can do its thing as well as possible.

If you're thinking about an engine swap, please go full retard and figure out how to get a 360 engine in, lol: You Tube

My Dad had 348, 355, 360 V8's and 550 and 575 V12... I got to drive those cars whenever I wanted and both the Ferrari V8 and V12 engines are just... unique. It was really cool when Tuerck did the GT4586 build... Wouldn't really fit with my goals to build in additional reliability where I can though

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Man my favorites are the 550 and 575... those things sound amazing.

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The 550 was my favorite street car I have ever driven. Front engine V12, gated gear shift, Carbon everything.... Huge burnouts. On another note... Took my car for a merciless rip today, mufflers may make some difference at idle and really low engine speeds but I can't notice a difference in the cabin when ripping on it, so, we'll see what it does for the DB meter at Palmer next weekend. The little catch can stayed firmly affixed and at least for the moment, nothing is leaking so thats good. I must have some oil in the intakes cause its letting out a puff of white smoke on startup after it sat... PIA... SO I beat the **** out of it in hopes of burning whatever is in there off... Will change the oil and nut and bolt the car tomorrow and she'll be ready to go again.

Wow... He'll of a list. Always wanted a 575.

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All of those are on my want to buy list, ride report/comparison por favor.

V8 Ferrari: The 360 really stepped up the game. The 348 and 355 both felt built in the OLD Ferrari way - ie... the quality was only where it needed to be. What you touched, heard, felt. The 360 felt like it was a big step up in build quality and you could feel it. It was also the first flappy paddle box I had messed with and to be honest, going from the gated shifters to that thing was a kick in the dick. Yes, it worked pretty good (for the time) and was faster than I could shift... but it took away some of the romance of driving one of those cars. They handled very well, confidence inspiring with a lot of grip. The controls all felt weighted right and steering very sharp. The 355 was probably my favorite and if I was going to buy a Ferrari, it would be a 355 Challenge that I would figure out how to convert for road use and I'd put TE37 wheels on it. The Sound... Porsche engines (NA ONLY) sound special, and great...but they are not a flat plane crank V8, exhaust, induction, mechanical... just the best sounding engines that rev so freely... really feel like nothing else... Kind of like a liter bike... feels like endless revs I guess is how I would compare. V12 Ferrari: The grand touring cars, build quality really high - pretty comfortable, rolling pieces of art. The lines of those cars will look beautiful to me forever. The V12's have this ridiculous combination of pretty good grunt down low to this unending shove as the revs build... They sound powerful and combined with the gated shift... It feels like the perfect combination of mechanical parts married together for fun, and comfort. My Dad and I would take the cars down to Newport, sit at an outdoor pub or coffee shop and just chat and look at them... forever memories. Honorable mentions: V12 Astons: Beautiful engine noise, manual gear boxes, even when everyone was going to DCT's... also really good GT cars. V12 SL65: This car was an absolute freight train. Story...my friends Alex and Bill owned a shop in Norwood, MA - Dent Sport Garage. They built my Evo and I would hang out there, a lot ! They had a Dyno Dynamics Dyno... popularly referred to at the time as a heartbreaker dyno for the low numbers it would put out compared to the more common Dynojet... Now the Dyno Dynamics IMO was a vastly superior dyno because of the steady state tuning you could do on it, but I digress... Anyway Al called me up and said they had an F350 diesel on the dyno and it put out 700 FT/LBS to the wheels... This got me thinking, I wonder how much torque the Benz will put down... it was rated for some stupid number... I knew, from the fact that if you mashed the gas at 70 at like 2500 RPM it would lay 11's down... whatever it was, it was a lot ! I called my Dad, told him I wanted to borrow the Benz for the afternoon and a couple hours later we were loading it onto the dyno... I don't remember exactly what is was but I believe it ended up putting somewhere in the 750 FT/LBS range and like 550 HP... I brought the car back to my Dad that night with the dyno sheet for him to keep. A picture from a little while back - He's in an SL63 now and loves it...

Cars create good memories don't they...

Your take on those exotics is pretty awesome.

@zbomb - maybe you should add some car reviews to your channel Well written!

Thanks guys... really fun times - very lucky to have not only gotten to drive them but to do it with my Dad... And thanks for the kind words on the write-up... it was fun to write and go back in history a bit... that was a much simpler time in my life and writing it brought me back to a place that was primarily filled with various types (can�t write about all of them !) of fun

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I�d watch the channel for that.

Jeez... I would kill to review cars... that’s straight up dream job/hobby stuff. If I had access to the hardware I had back then... my YT channel probably be just a bit more popular haha. Appreciate the kind words though... I love stuff that burns gasoline.

Track prep for this SAT at Palmer is done. Changed the oil, magnetic plug looked great and nothing interesting in the filter... Gave the brakes a mini bleed to get the fluid in the calipers out and replaced with something that got cooked a little less from up stream (thanks for the tip Aaron). Looks like at least some rain for Sat... First track day with rain, First time running Palmer in this direction...not awesome, but hey, we'll make the best of it. Kinda wishing I still had the PS4S though as a rain option So, I'll give the oil a top off tomorrow night and off to Palmer early Sat AM.

Dude, such a smart idea with marking the oil filter and adapter to ensure it's not backing out! I've had the date and miles on mine but will add this. Good luck and enjoy the track

I was thinking about getting a 348 to add to the stable, since I don't mind the looks and I'm a fan of the unloved. Is the car that much worse than the 355 in terms of driving experience/quality? I don't need the car to be insanely quick - moreso canyon carving, and the occasional autocross/track day.

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It's been a long time since I drove them, but I have grouped the 348/355 together where the 360 was a different animal. Any of them - 348, 355, 360 are awesome. My favorite version of the 348

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Same here. I've been putting basic info on the filter going waaay back but never thought to mark the orientation. Never had a spin-on filter back off but what an easy, peace of mind thing to do.

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A lot of pressure pushed through that filter, so in the unlikely event it would happen to back out - it would be mucho dramatic... I put the markings in a spot I can just peek behind the rear passenger wheel and see all is good. Nice to do the first couple track sessions after a change. Especially cause I have a lot going on back there with the LN adapter / Adapter block for the sensors / filter... more complexity than I would like so this gives some easy piece of mind. Nice clean 308 bay SoCal911t !

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Good luck! Looking forward to the video!

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Thanks Tex ! Just wrapped up packing all my track stuff and putting a little extra air in the tires for the hour long drive there.. She took 10QTS to get to just registering on the dip stick, we're going to call that good....

Jason, kick some *** at the track!

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The weather is looking MUCH BETTER than last time I was there!

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When you first got the rear deck & wing I thought "that rear deck needs to be re-painted." Now I wouldn't touch it. It really looks great Shell orange & blue!

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I'm tired ! Really struggled to learn the layout going the opposite way... first 2 sessions were a struggle. Between figuring out where I was going and some less than courteous traffic... plus cold tires I just could not get up to temp...was not driving fast enough - man, I was almost a little discouraged. Then, last session before lunch - I was able to get some cleaner track and tag up with a Z06 Vette and I was able to get a much better look at the line... The track was a lot more challenging in my opinion going this direction - even the not straight, straight... I was trying to get my self to stay WOT through it but that concrete barrier on the outside was yelling too loud. After lunch... was again able to tag up with some faster cars and by the end of the day, got down to a 1:56.1 which, I am happy with. I have a lot to improve upon - but for the first time running this layout - that's a good foundation to build on. Can ran great - no issues. I really like the NT01 - when they are up to temp they really let you get back on the throttle early with a ton of grip in the front... I was happy to have the LSD in the cold as tire spin going up hill in the cold was regular... the diff was putting in some work today. I'll get working on the video... 2 HRS + of track footage. ETA*** Mini Mufflers worked !!! no warnings for sound***

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Haha, yeah, that Shell.

You Tube

Man those walls r close. I see what u mean about not wanting to push the car at that track. let me know if u want to njmp one day and run a track with plenty of space.

​​​​​​Jason, Car sounds fantastic. You are looking smooth as silk with you inputs! Congrats man. Are there as many elevation changes as it looks from the footage? Tough enough to learn a track in one direction. Gotta be a he'll of a lot tougher to learn it in the other direction. Especially as you are seeing markers and sights from the opposite side. How did the drainage work on the aos?

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Thanks Glenn - YES... ****load of elevation change.... not a lot of flat actually. I'm not sure the video even does them justice... The remote accumulator...accumulator... (Patent Pending ) worked and no leaks from any of the fittings. Kind of hard to tell from the pic, but you can see the oil that was caught during the day - I'll empty it tomorrow and give you an idea of the volume - but I'm happy it worked... the thing should hold almost a QT of oil, so if I manage to fill it and back up to the UAOS accumulator to trigger the warning, well, then things have went real south... I bought a replacement diaphragm for ****s and giggles but it didn't get here in time so I'll throw it in and see if that makes a difference for the next track day (the 22nd) but don't have high hopes. I am going to try to run leak down and compression on the motor before as well... that should give an indication if I have a cylinder seal issue at the heart of this pushing oil problem. If both leak down and compression are good - then I'll be on a mission to identify what's going on. If bad - run it as long as its making power, keep it full of oil and empty the remote accumulator....accumulator (Patent Pending ) as needed and start planning for what will come next. Also, I have the car back in the air for checkover and thought I would post a snap of the NT01... these have 15 sessions (20 min) or about 5HRS run time on them... Really happy with the even wearing and the life I'm getting out of them. I expect to see some degradation as the ambient temps rise, but impressed so far.

NT01s look great. Heard great things about them but can't find them in the regular "stock" size. I have 2 sets of 5 spoke Carerra wheels that are light as he'll that I take to the track. Putting in a wish list for a bigger set of rims to run more variation of tires. I like what you are engineering for the AOS. After going to a GT3 motorsport AOS years ago, haven't experienced any problems. However, I haven't dug into any details like you have, and you got me thinking. Going to go to UAOS for the next one, but the car is 19 years old and therefore not a spring chicken. It's at the age that the "little" things matter on the track. Still can't forget when my stock AOS stoped working and I was blowing smoke then flames out the exhaust at the track and was black flagged. Probably in 2005. This was way before a complete understanding of the AOS failures, and the track workers/PCA thought my car was on fire. The initial remedy at the time was to let your car idle about 30 minutes after coming off the track to get the oil back in its proper place. Hah! Keep doing what you are doing! You are providing workable solutions for a great car.

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Thanks for posting the NT01s, this gives me hope. I have run about 10 sessions on my rears (down 2mm to 4mm left) and 5 sessions on the Fronts (down 1mm to 5mm tread left). I will be switching to the back-up Michelins for the time being until the Mid-O event in June. I am super impressed with the overall grip and predictability. The NT01s are very sensitive to the exact correct tire pressures, but once they are dialed in...WOW!

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I love the UAOS Glenn, without it, it is very clear I would have ingested a lot more oil into the combustion cycle than I have. This seems to be an issue that I am struggling with more than my buddies, and it makes the UAOS that much more important for me. Truth be told - The pushing oil problem has been a real PIA. My manometer testing throws weird numbers when I run for both AOS function and blow by. Either acceptable, when it looks like there's an issue or too perfect to be true. I leak test the Vac system looking for any signs a vacuum leak may be throwing the numbers and it's locked up tight as a drum. Which is leading me to, maybe its just a cylinder sealing issue to which I am not going to fix and will just have to live with for the duration I can or have to. I agree Randy - when I could not get them up to temp, and pressure - they were not giving what I wanted. When they are working though, I love them. I plan to run these down to the cords, will likely go through 2 sets this year if I get in all the days I would like. Beauty of needing a new set of tires... you can send the deceased ones off in style

Regarding your oil issue, have you checked the condition of the scavenge pumps? If they are worn you will pool oil and it will splash/push into the PCV system in hard turns.

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Nope - may be something to do in the off season if plan is to run the motor next year. Also - bought another set of pads to try, going to the more aggressive Hawk DTC 60 for track days, will likely continue to run the HP+ on the street. As I now have a bunch of timing and G force data, should be interesting to see if any difference aside from feel can be quantified with the data I’m collecting. Didn’t get the oil volume measured last night as I planned, got sidetracked in a wheel mounting battle with de jeeper and had to ice up after... I’ll get that figured out tonight though. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post17424117 Running back at Palmer on the 22nd, same direction as last day - hoping the improvement seen over the last session I did there continues and hbdunn and jneslo will be there so we’ll be represented well.

Saw your wheel change video last night - you my friend are a legend and a good sport hah!

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Haha, thanks Bro - that was a fun change of pace ! Man, if I had not started the threads by hand, gotta do it though... I visibly cringed when I saw de jeeper go straight to the impact.... bad memories of stripped threads for me... but I gotta say, he looked slick A F doing it.

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I've had a chance to meet Aaron (De Jeeper) in person - the man speaks softly and carries an impact gun Perhaps a brake pad swap challenge is next?

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Round nascar style tips and course thread nuts from msi. As u already said they r the vendor of choice for the nascar and race crowd. These studs/nuts r designed to be installed with the impact and not cross thread. i dont think i want this challenge. I was suuuuuper careful with the caliper bolts. No need to rush that repair.

Thanks to TheChunkNorris for sending me on a little trip down memory lane thanks to a post he made in his build thread HERE INSPIRATION.... http://www.speedhunters.com/2008/09/...gt300_porsche/ This is my roots and I love it...thats all You Tube

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Bro that�s awesome! My favorites were the Advan GT3 and the Falken GT3.

You should definitely run that muffler set up with a diffuser hah Love the JDM flare on these!

Long one incoming... 1st Installed the GT3 Lip TheChunkNorris sent me. So...turns out installing a GT3 lip on a stock .2 bumper is easy peasy. Thanks a bunch Joel for sending it to me - I never would have spent the money without knowing if I could get it to fit, now I know - Thank You !!! So, putting it on... Line it up in roughly the spot you want it Drill holes through the lip into the bumper big enough to fit M6 bolts. Drill a hole, install bolt through it, washer and nut from the other side. The forward most nuts are a little tough as you have to get them between the bumper base and the short overhang on the inside of the bumper. Super glue the nut to the washer, slide it in the small recess and feel around for the bolt. Thats it... If I did not have to go the get the hardware...1/2 hour job if the bumper is off - Mind you, I am pretty paranoid about bolting stuff to the outside of the car that will bear an aero load as my car sees triple digit speeds very regularly... I am confident... This thing aint going no where. Next As I had the bumper off, I figured I would clearance the front fender liners a bit and also add some slots to allow air coming out of the rads to escape... It's kind of ugly, it may, or may not work... we'll see if it makes any difference. I feel better the air has some place to go and hopefully my front tires will have a little more breathing room at full steering lock. Next, Next Put that stuff back on the car and moved on to the pad swap. Nothing remarkable here. Off with HP+ and on with DTC60. Front - old, I think 5 track days on the left. Rear - same deal as front except, old on the right Last, and least. I finally drained out my UAOS accumulator...accumulator. Here's how much oil it caught in 2 HRS of track time and 1 HR street driving.

Waiting on these to come in to finish up the high mileage / Extreme Track duty automatic self-draining feature for the UAOS. This will screw into the drain plug threads on the bottom of the Accumulator, thea a 3/8 hose to a pressure fitting on the oil fill tube. Banjo fitting to 3/8 hose

Nice... I actually needed a 3/8 hose to go to my catch can.... but I managed to squeeze by with the 1/4 as I did not want to risk modifying another drain plug with another fitting... Its a Christmas miracle the one on there now isn't leaking. So... DIBS on the accumulator fitting for sure. Looks DOPE ! Interested what you're thinking on the oil fill tube mounting. I'm on the fence if I want to go that route or just keep going to the catch can - I's nice to be able to see what's happening and the way I have mine setup - it's really easy to empty.

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It's a special rubber seal that works like a "rivet", you drill a .500 hole in the oil fill tube. insert the seal, then push in the metal nipple and the seal flairs out on the inside to form a 145psi air tight seal. Will route hose behind the alternator to keep away from belt ( fire)..Will probably make a kit out of it for the website and include a new oil fill tube pre-fitted with the seal/nipple.

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Sounds awesome Skip - like properly engineered... Thanks for working solutions that are robust and carefully thought out.

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Nice!

Skip ill take one of those. Z, still weird u r getting that much oil. I never got more then a drip.

Yeah dj.... gotta do a leakdown. Bedded brakes, sitting at a spot waiting for them to cool. Love the smell of brakes in the AM 🙂 the lip My current view... I love this car.

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Thanks guys !!! I believe I had better up my order on these !!! These kind of parts can be hard to get and in short supply at times...

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Lip and car look fantastic. I gotta say. The 996 continues to get better looking with age. Glad to see its aging so damn well. And most importantly, the headlights look freaking good. It's a shame the media and blog bobble heads dont possess the ability of independent thought.

Thanks Glenn - people respond to it... gets a lot of thumbs ups and waves on the road. For as track focused as it is, it is still very, very good at fast road driving.

For my track bros... next time you’re cleaning the marbles from the inner wheel - throw some heat reflective tape over the wheel weights. This will prevent the weights adhesive cooking, losing adhesion and tossing the weight. And while you’re at it... give those bad girls a shine...

That's an awesome idea with the wheel weights! Keep'em coming.

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Yes, great idea!

Don't forget to remove the center caps, too, or you'll find they turn into Dali-esque sculptures.

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In todays installment of - Do it, its pretty much free FACT - Chicks dig sweat bands. FACT - Chicks HATE when the paint in your trunk is ruined When you're out there shredding laps, it's possible for your brake fluid reservoir to weep... when that weep turns to a drip, and that drip makes its way to some paint... well, you know the sad tale that comes next. Microwave dinners my guys... Stop that possibility in it's tracks - take a sweatband, or in my case a microfiber zip tied to the reservoir cap and WRAP IT UP. Gentlemen, failure to do so may leave you with an unalterable situation for the rest of your lives.... or until you get it repainted... you know what I mean.

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I don't track but I've been doing this since 2010 when California prohibited lead weights. For some reason, the steel versions are more prone to fly off. Yes, they do. I'm still rocking mine from the '80s BMW Lifestyles collection.

Socal... Listen dude, I don't want - I NEED that jumpsuit in my repertoire Enhancing to the max to spy the PN...Why do they make it so GD small... And before anyone gives me **** - I DD an F30 econobox.

Between your brake fluid protection and that 80s jumpsuit, this advise might come in handy...

Dudes...Trying out Race Render. It lets me add the data from the Aim on to video...pretty cool. For those that like the track videos - do you like the additional data. I'm probably going to anyway... but before I spend the $50 wanted to see if people dig it. I should be able to add more data - oil pressure and temps etc.... basically anything being captured by the loggerl, this is what I got playing with if for an hour. You Tube

Nice to have that on video. Might change display to metric. Would be like the Nurburgring videos where I’m having mentally calculate mph entire video LOL.

Ha ! Metric only on fasteners Mike ! Thanks for watching the videos and commenting Mike - it's really nice to have the support.

Solid video - enjoyed it! Was it me or were there 2 g-force circles showing somewhat different data?

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Perceptive - I was messing with the settings on one of them... well, you see the results haha... Taken a little bit to figure out how to get everything synced and right data right place but I think the setup can be really helpful.

That looks great! It would be fascinating to overlay oil pressure & oil temp on that vid.

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Its coming Aaron... track video from this next weekend should be a good one.

Cool display. Tons of data already on that screen. If you add more, oil pressure would be my choice. Yes, oil temp has a global affect, but low pressure/flow will show the affect of the sweepers. The 2nd G-force meter is funny. I was trying to figure out how it would be something different like a level or weight, but nothing panned out. I like the bigger G-meter.

Turns out, at least 1 exhaust has been made that is exactly what I want. Trying to get more details. This is on a 997 Race Car... this exhaust, I would pay real money for, assuming I had it... the money ya know 😃

https://www.fvd.net/us-en/RES9960520...m-headers.html

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DUDE !!! Where have you been my whole life $2600 is sooo much money but those things are sooo dope. hmmmmm..

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I'll check my original pic to see if it's any higher res but I think for the future of mankind, it's best if that whole line of apparel has been discontinued.

Its almost like buying a set of ohlins again. Ohlins that sound really really good. Hah

Well - for those that wanted a very clear visual representation of my on track oil pressure experience. Driven XP 9 LN 2QT Deep Sump & Baffle LN Spin on Filter and Napa 1042 Both Oil Pressure and Temp taken from ports on an oil filer adapter using AIM sensors Data logged at 20HZ Oil P and 10HZ Oil T Oil is filled to 1/4 up the dip stick, about 10QTS Water temp is not shown but was 200F and steady Oil Pressure is the bar graph on the right, it is shown as TEMP - But is configured to show pressure. Oil Temperature is the bar graph on the left This is just to quantify my issues seen on track with regards to oil pressure instability. I thought may be interesting to the group. Before I spent $20K + on an engine - I'd be asking potential builder - Can you do anything to fix this ? You Tube

FWIW (and risking to sound like a broken record) the issue seen in the video + the PCV system puking oil is what I solved by replacing the scavenge pumps. Possibly you also need replacing the chain tensioners as they can be quite leaky if they are worn and add to the issue. Then fill the oil FULL (according to the manual, hot and level).

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Jason, Very interesting to watch oil pressure drops, it pretty much confirms everthing thats been said about right hand turns. Don�t think there are short term consequences but I would guess long term there must be some per mature wear. I would agree if one is to rebuild for the track you certainly would want address the oil pressure drop. Thank you for your informative posts. Looking forward to Palmer this Saturday.

The display is awesome. Great data. Having this video along with graphs from the data logger is quite powerful. It seems there are some pressure drops on left hand turns as well, just not as dramatic. What is an expected amount of drop? Let's say, straight line, WOT to no throttle for 2 seconds, then back to WOT, how much pressure drop would there be? But this is not really the issue. The issue is pressure drop on a right hand turn under power. Maybe a different parameter is needed. Something like Pressure/Load/G or Pressure/RPM/G Really nice work.

I saw a question you asked on the fabspeed thread regarding a lightweight exhaust. I think this is what you're looking for. Available for 3.4 and 3.6. Here are links for the 3.4. Race End Muffler 996 3.4 L - Catalytic Bypass - For Use with OEM Headers (fvd.net) Race End Muffler 996 3.4 L - Includes 200 Cell Sport Catalytics - For Use with OEM Headers (fvd.net)

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Thanks SV... Yaz beat you to the punch by a bit above... but this does further emphasize I am lost without my RL Bros ! Thanks !

Please post a sound clip when you get them.

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Wow there brother... slow your roll haha. I�m still digesting the cost... I see something like that and it�s like... man, I really need to learn how to weld haha. Although... I never say never.

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Please expound upon what you did to �replace the scavenge pumps� do you mean the factory x51 upgrade kit or something different? Thanks Don�t mean to threadjack but I think all including OP would like to know. Thanks

No worries man - we keep it free in here... Check in here for some of Nick’s posts... there’s some good stuff in there. Not sure I’m in agreement with all of it, but worth a read. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...n-corners.html

Car prep is done and I'm ready to head out bright and early to Palmer tomorrow AM. A chance to build on some of the comfort I finally started to develop running this counter clockwise direction a couple weeks ago, Got some good tips from people that were nice enough to review my footage from the last event and am excited to get back out. Will be mainly focussing on trying to be as consistent as I can and work on incremental improvements. The car is great, the driver is trying Weather looks to be warm with a high of 87... nothing new for the car, ran in these temps a couple time last year but now I have a much better idea what the car's vitals are actually doing. I expect to set some record high's for water and oil temps tomorrow. Last year - the water temp gauge never budged at these temps... will be interesting to see what it really is. Also expect with the elevated temps for the oil pressure to fluctuate quite a bit, and probably look a little ugly at moments....Ahhh, the beauty of actually knowing - last year I kind of knew, but now it's unmissable. Oh yeah... have to run numbers with this club - I cheesed out and got some really nice magnetic ones... My vanity really coming out 08... The year my baby Livy changed the world Jack and Brad - Excited to terrorize Whiskey Hill Raceway with you dudes tomorrow...

Tear it up Jason!

Rock n Roll!

****... I love being at the track with my 996 dudes !

Just got back - it was hot and I am tired. So much fun with Brad and Jack today, the 996 Gang represented well, like real well. Ran a 1:53.07 - Took 3 seconds off my best from couple weeks ago ! Be back after couple cold ones and shower with best lap of the day video. Me and Jack Jnelso Me and Brad hbdunn

Is the #241 running a GT3 Tek front lip? And #61?

Beautiful pictures! ​ @hbdunn , which splitter is that?

Everytime I see this thread title in the queue, it upsets me. Why is it that your 996 is confused? It didn't modify itself. Shouldn't it be the thread title be, "Confused @zbomb and his 996"?

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I purchased my front lip (#61) used from an owner of a �garage queen� that wanted to keep his car totally stock. Not sure who made it, but it fits pretty good, the rear wing was old stock from Gemballa. Jack

Best lap from today - will be cross posted in the oil pressure thread as I left the metrics in - but for those of you just interested in the car kicking *** - here you go. Learned some new things today, but, as it has reminded me so often ... The car is good, really good and I am just trying to do it some justice. You Tube

Need some more 996�s at these track days.

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im trying to get back out there

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No Dude... Thats the thing. When the stars align just right... and I'm a little nervous to admit this on a public forum... the car.... it tells me.... to do.....things. But it should also be noted... ****, I am confused ALL THE TIME.

Just signed up for Lime Rock on July 6 with SCDA - UNMUFFLED ! Will be the 3rd track I add to my experience list and I am so excited - It's iconic. Anyone else be there ?

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I'm trying Jack! You and I will have to represent the group at Lime Rock on Wednesday.

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I emailed Elivan this morning.

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zbomb gets my vote for best attitude. I like this guy a lot.

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Do it !!! Would be awesome to have some buddies Its supposed to be FUN dog !!! I’m all about fun. Totally OT ... mother of god. Look what I just saw randomly in a mall parking lot out with fam.

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Sweet! I saw a Mosler Consulier (!) on Rt 90 on the way back from Lime Rock last week, being driven by a middle age woman! No pictures, I was driving, no time to get the phone out.

I know it is an R34 but aren't the R32 getting legal to import in these days Just throwing it out there!

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glad it worked for you! Yup and we�re at R33s now.

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Yes that is a GT3 Tek, It fits fairly well. It is the same as Jack's.

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Jason and Jack two great guys that love these cars maybe more than me! Also like that you got your dad an his people mover in the same shot.

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Damn near impossible to miss it Brad

You can make pretty nice cards for the doors out of 1/16 FRP sheet and a trip to a decent fabric store. The FRP cuts fine with a pair of good aircraft snips and you can use "3M spray Trim adhesive to glue the fabric To the plastic panels, they will weigh maybe 3 lbs with a nice dense thin fabric. Best thing is a 4x8 sheet of FRP isn't very expensive, and basic semi velour black upholstery fabric is fairly cheap as well. Been a while but last set I did for a bug I was in to them for about 40 bucks.. With a darn close replica of a alcantera fabric. I made door pulls with some thin bright yellow nylon webbing from REI, Lady at a near by dry-cleaner that does repairs stitched the ends of the webbing for me,, little fiddling and a couple bits from a hardware store and I had the pulls working off the factory latches. Good Luck.

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Thanks for the tip - the issue with the 996 is your dealing with humps and bumps, a stiff piece of FRP will not sit even a little bit flat against the door or close the gaps around the edges. On another note - got some pictures back from the track day I did back on the 8th...enjoy !

Back from 3 sessions at Thompson - progress ! knocked 2 seconds off my previous best and put up a 1:22.6 - goal was to dip below 1:23 so I'm happy. Had a great time with Aaron, so nice to be at the track with buds. The not so good - I am really doing my best to hurt the motor. End of the day as I pulled off track the coolant light started blinking. I filled the reserve canister and it backed up to the UAOS... Over 3 sessions of track time, I had just under 3/4 QT of blow by - Yes, you read that right. I don't know why this keeps happening at Thompson to such a drastic extent over Palmer... but it does. So, in addition to the oil pressure problems I'm having, I was basically running the last session 3/4 of a QT down on oil. I should have checked it, but I didn't... Anyway - I'll be putting a video of the best lap of the day up shortly...

Don't kill the engine yet! We know you want a GT3 motor, but not yet! Nice work at the track! Faster is better. It's cool to see the improvement. Looking forward to the vids and data!

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Thanks Paul ! Data is in your inbox I looked at it briefly - and big G's and big drops... saw some in the teens... Then I got all paranoid and went and cut the filter open... and....nothing. Filter housing was clean too - so that is good.

2 of my favorites... Add new Vette and GTR to the list of cars I've passed - I think Aaron passed them too. Good day for the 996 guys !

Car started making a noise under cornering loads during the last session - I did not notice it in the car real time but later under video review. She's going to need a good look over before we go back on track (hopefully) on the 24th... That all said, I am really happy with my time and how easy the car is to drive - I passed everything out there to pass and a lot of really expensive and fast cars had the Porsche badge and funny headlights harassing their rear views. Unfortunately my happiness is slightly overshadowed by my growing concern that at the rate I'm going - I won't have a lot more days like this left in the mill. Not trying to be dramatic - But I do try to be open and honest with the folks that enjoy following the build / car / exploits and that's what's going through my head at the moment. You Tube

Your GoPro hard mounted can pick up and amplify sounds that are not audible directly. I'll listen again for the sound later. Trust me on this, if the engine was about to come apart you would hear it loud and clear. So i"m thinking you are OK for now. It would be really great to do something about the oil temperatures. Cutting that back to 220-225-230 would help quite a bit.

You Tube

Nice! You were pushing them out of their comfort zones. I can hear them saying, 'this f'n guy is not going to give up!'. I'm racing vicariously through your vids! Great stuff.

Me and Aaron... Car and coffee with your buds is nice - Cars and race tracks with your buds - BETTER !

Busy day today - unfortunately not a ton on the fun car. Had not touched it since I got back from the track and spent the early morning trying to get some stuff accomplished. Air pressures back to street settings. Cleaned a TON of brake dust off the wheels, the DTC60 have noticeable wear after only 1 track hour. Made sure the oil level good and took it for a quick drive to listen for any noises - NONE - car actually drove and sounded great, go figure. Got it up in the air and checked the wheel bearings and a general inspection - all looks in order. Got the trans fluid changed out and that was all she wrote for fun car time for the day. Then it was on to 3 oil changes, 2 full brake jobs, hunting down and fixing a windshield washer nozzle malfunction and a general safety nut/bolt on 4 cars... Big news of the day is the UAOS res drain to oil fill tube that Skip sent me showed up - I am super impressed, he picked some high grade parts and it looks very well engineered. If for any reason you have to take out your oil fill tube and you have a UAOS - Get this, there's no downside and it makes the entire system maint free - Glorious. For me, its an engine saver, like the UAOS - the amount of oil I caught on track the other day is absurd, I don't think a stretch to say - it could have very well lead to a catastrophic engine failure. Now, it will save me from not only the oil ingestion, but from having to worry about a significant oil level drop due to blow by. So, I'll hopefully get it installed tomorrow and then on to the scavenge pumps and bypass plunger / spring. Check this out... Thanks Skip !

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Nice driving, brother.

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Gracias Amigo ! Just got the UAOS drain back to the oil fill tube put in and I am STOKED with how it came out. Mocked the hose to roughly where I wanted to run it to the fill tube. As directed, a little soapy water on the fitting and the grommet - put the fitting end in a vice and slid the grommet/fill tube in - its a tight fit so plan accordingly. Then I just reinstalled the fill tube and ran the hose up to the UAOS res... As is a requirement - pulled the old drain plug with my drain fitting out and left the plastic threads in the UAOS res - can't have everything go smooth - this was totally as a result of my mod to add the catch can setup - not an issue with the drain plug if you don't remove 3/4 of its material. Then... Got the banjo on to the UAOS res and let me tell you, it's perfect. Nice gentle downward slope, no worries of interference with the alternator - STOKED. I added yellow lines to the new hose so you can tell it apart from the rest of the spaghetti back there. Just got to get everything else back together... Easy. Well done Skip !!!

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NICE!

Thanks Glenn - got to say, with how clean it came out, the fact that it totally removes what would otherwise be a frequently bothersome issue and is so simple in design but executed so well with materials selection - its one of my favorite mods on the car - I LOVE removing headaches that just let me focus on the fun and this fits my style totally ! If you have a UAOS and need to remove the alternator for any reason, this install adds about an hour taking your time - totally worth it.

Nice and tight in there but looks like you have a pretty clean path to run that hose. What was the total install time? I noticed that after replacing the crossover hose after the UAOS install I could have both intakes out in under two hours easily if needed.

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Never really keep track of install time but for estimate : Remove airbox Remove TB (I did, not require though) Remove Serp belt from Alternator Remove Alternator Roughly place new UAOS drain hose to where you want it to go on fill tube and mark tube Pull oil fill tube Drill 1/2 in hole in fill tube, press in grommet and the accumulator drain hose Reinstall oil fill tube Remove UAOS accumulator drain plug and replace with hose / banjo bolt Put the alternator back in Put the belt back on put the airbox back in Maybe 3HRS... depending on how hard the alternator bushing to get out, first time I removed it, no problem, this time was tapping away / PB blasting on it for 1/2 hour or if you encounter any other weirdness.

The alternator doesn’t have to come all the way out in order to remove the oil fill tube. You only need to shift it an inch or so to the left. Can you run the hose without removing the alternator? Might save a bit of time.

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You're right, when I was just replacing the fill tube, I just shifted the alternator over, but it's really only the time saved unclipping the alternator connections and finagling it out and then back in - maybe another 1/2 hour, you still have to drive the bushing back which was where the majority of my time spent on the alternator today was. I wanted max room to be able to mark the spot I wanted to drill the oil fill tube and route the hose so I would have the angle I wanted, I could not have done it without removing the alternator. If you get the version from Skip with the pre setup oil fill tube, you can likely do it without having to remove the alternator.

New scavenge pumps (hoping they have a positive impact on oil pressure stability and funded by the RL community for data collection and sharing) Fresh brake fluid (Castrol SRF) Fixed a broken battery terminal Oil change I believe I found the source of the noise I was hearing during track video review - the bolts that secure the cross braces to the aluminum cross member were 1. hand tight 2. backed a couple of threads out. It is possible the last time I had the skid plate off (I hate the skid plate) I did not torque them down or that they backed out - in any event, they are now torqued down and I added some blue loctite. The skid plate transmits a really funky resonance, I fixed this with some gasket material at all mounting locations it bolts to a hard point on the car, but, the fact they were loose makes a lot of sense that the noise was some of that resonance... I'm going with that for now. For anyone interested in the scavenge pumps remove and replace: Bank 2 - 10 minutes, everything visible, plenty of room and in my case, the pump just slid out. Bank 1 - NOT 10 MINUTES. The access is tight, but not too bad, I was working from inside the wheel well. The bolts are easily accessible although you will be moving from a ratchet to hopefully a ratcheting / open ended. Once I had the bolts out it did not want to move... at all. Given the fact the pumps engage the cams, I was hesitant to yield my awesome strength on them. A phone a friend to Aaron gave me the magic ticket - I tapped the pump (gently) radially and once it broke free was able to continue that process to get it walked out. Now that she's out, there is not sufficient space to slide the pump fully out as the sub frame is in the way. So, I dropped the motor onto a jack and slowly lower and checked the clearance of the pump until I had just enough room to slide it out. Install - lube the **** out of the new pump with fresh oil, contact surfaces and especially where it engages the cam. Wiggle it into place the same way I got it out and gently pushed the pump in while turning until it engaged the cam, this took a bit, if you're doing this job - be patient here. once engaged, I rotated the pump into its correct orientation and bolted it in, no room for a torque wrench so the 4 bank 1 bolts were torqued to gudandite specification. Blue loctite used on all hardware. I did not have to loosen any of the gearbox bolts, which made me very happy. Bank 1 view from the wheel well. Bank 1 closeup Bank 2

Damn you make it sound easy. Let's hope it add some improvement that can be measured. Out of curiosity, how did the original parts look?

Tremendous work, zbomb!

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Thanks Glenn - I have really good resources with both Aaron and Skip just a call away - and I use them haha ! I'm lucky... I can't wait to see the data, I've said before I don't think we will see much, if anything - but what's pretty awesome is... my opinion doesn't mean **** ! the data will say what it says and we'll have a result... I love it ! I would say the pumps both did exhibit some signs of wear - I guess it was more than I was expecting, but I have nothing to base either my expectations, or what I saw off of. I'm sending both pumps off the car to Skip tomorrow so he can take a look, I will trust his opinion on the wear a lot more than I do my own. Thanks Brian - Felt pretty cool to be installing parts that were funded by people here on RL - it's really amazing people were intrigued enough by the idea of seeing what this part change would reflect in data to pitch in their hard earned US Dollars... kind of humbling. And for Skip to come up with the idea and really push both with donations from the UAOS sales but also with the weight of his knowledge and experience - I think it gave people confidence in the idea and the importance of data driven answers.

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I’m good dude... Now that they work, I forget the spec sometimes haha. Wheel /Tire Front 18x9+50 245x40 10MM Spacer to clear coil over Rear 18X11+67 305x35

Zbomb I’m about to replace my aos with UAOS and would like that return line where can I buy it Mike

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Mike, I just got enough parts in stock to offer these on the website,(but haven't posted it yet, I will later today)...PM me for details..

Porschetech3, I measured the lobe-to-lobe at 0.12-0.15mm and the outer rotor-to-body at >0.25mm. I used an indicator dial referenced to the lid mating surface and zeroed to a part of the pump body which showed now wear. The dial showed a wear of 0.1mm at the worst place. It would be interesting if you could make the same measurements to compare.

Well - been a while... I missed the track day I had scheduled on the 24th - my guys Aaron (even though he drove the VW) and Jack represented us well I hear with some other 996's at Thompson. I had a family health issue that has owned my last 2 WKS, scary stuff. Coming out the other side of it Yesterday and being able to take a breath, I can use some of my mental horsepower for fun stuff again, like cars I'm back on track tomorrow for a day at Thompson with Mass Tuning. Feel a lot better with the oil drain back installed, also kind of excited to see if the new scavenge pumps do anything. I'm going to be starting the day with the oil slightly higher than I generally run at about 1/2 full on the dip stick, that's about 11QTS fill. My thinking is if the UAOS drain back works like I hope, even if I am taxing the **** out of the UAOS system, it should just drain right back into the oil fill and maybe the slightly higher fill level will help to mitigate some of the pressure drops, Had just enough time to give the car a wash, fill the tank with gas and put on the Rennline tow hook I bought... Anyway, nice to be able to devote the proper amount of time to RL again

Glad to hear everything came out OK. Have great day at Thompson tomorrow.

Kick some butt tomorrow.

So - only ran half a day today, managed a new PB, 1:22.1. The UAOS oil return seemed to work great, no drop in oil level after 3 sessions. The exciting - had my first off today, mildly dramatic even through I avoided bumping into anything. Here's why I am dumb - don't be like me: when I had finished putting the dash stuff together, I had broken the locking connectors that hook up the factory gauges, I pushed them in, they seemed OK and I proceeded. Well, when I finally got the car running, I was having warning lights for outside temp sensor AND ABS/PSM. So, I took everything apart, reseated them and no issues. Then the first track day of the year, I had the outside temp sensor warning come back, again, reseated the connectors and all was working. About this time, Aaron was nice enough to give me replacement locking housings for the connector to correct my setup...correctly. Did I put them in ? NO Why you ask, cause I'm lazy and stupid and thought "hey, its working, I'll put them in the next time the stuff is apart..." Well, that very well could have caused me some major pain if I wasn't lucky. My ABS fault light is blocked by my dash (Again, STUPID) so when at some point shortly after my fastest lap of the day, it triggered, I was none the wiser. Made a pass on a Miata got on the brakes and they immediately locked up, very lucky. So - I already fixed the connectors when I got home, but before I put the gauges back in, I'm wiring a discrete LED to the ABS fault light similar to what I did for the CEL, it will be placed right below the dash and trigger upon the triggering of the dash warning, I won't miss it again, even through it should not come back on again. The car also made a loud clunk right before I got on the brakes, it drove fine after but I need to give everything a good look over, the car in general seems to be making a lot of noises I don't love but do not seem to have any affect on performance and I can't feel anything associated with them. I will get the car back on the road and give everything a good shakedown before Lime Rock on the 6th just to be sure. Have not looked at any data yet to see if the scavenge pumps did anything but I will in the next day and get something put up in the oil pressure thread for anyone wondering. I'll have some video up tonight or tomorrow of fastest of the day and the shunt. Here's what you don't want to do

Nothing like a little drama to get the adrenaline going. Congrats on the personal best. Glad you didn't do any damage to you or the car. Looking forward to seeing the data on the pumps and videos.

Thanks Glenn - inching my way down to the goal. You Tube You Tube

Yikes - so glad you saved it! That wall started to approach quickly. The PB lap looked smooth - awesome driving

Oh boy... The track gods were taking care of you making sure the abs failure occurred during a slow lap with a lot of traffic, but the traffic being out of the way. The stack of tires were coming up fast. How bad are the flat spots?

Yeah, I was really lucky, about the best spot that could have happened. Goes to show the speed things can go south on track, about 2 seconds from brake application to getting it settled in the grass. Tires feel OK at road speeds, haven�t got them off of the car for a better look though. They are getting to the end of their life with only the 2 circumference grooves remaining, basically slicks. I do plan to run them at Lime Rock on the 6th though. As I mentioned, I fixed the connectors last night and today one of the ladies that works for me soldered on the LED for ABS fault, she�s a professional so it came out a million times better than the one I did for the CEL. It�s amber to differentiate from the red CEL LED. I�ll get the dash back together tonight and will test drive in the next day or so to confirm back to good on the ABS front. That does leave me with another issue I�m not sure I mentioned, on the way home the car threw a CEL for cat efficient bank 2, some may remember I replaced both cats before the beginning of the season due to the same code and subsequent failed cat on bank 1. So, I�ll check the sensors on the dura and see if they�re alive. If I have another bad cat I may take the 2 bad I have and gut them. I�d try to see if I could keep the cel away with anti foulers. would like to hear any advice from guys running cat less if you�ve been able to keep the CEL away without a tune - or - if someone knows an economical way to tune it out.

Great job on PB.

Thanks Jack - was happy with improvement but was really hoping I could dip into 1:21’s - I think with the rest of the sessions I would have stood a good chance with the advanced pace being altogether higher... but leave it to bench racing. I want in the teens...

You Tube

Very cool. And here I am still trying to figure out how my radio works!

Hehe... Me too

At least you have a good reason!

Why is Jason so sloooowwwww? Here's a look at the personal best lap from this outing compared to the previous personal best from the last outing. There're a lot of colored curvy lines, so hang with me. In general, the Dark Blue is PB and Green is PPB. I've added some colored sections labeled 1 to 4. The green sections are where time was gained and the yellow where time was lost relative the PPB The X axis is distance in feet. This allows you to see where early or late events are that affect the time From the top: Speed, RPM, Accelerations, Braking & Throttle position The bottom graph is the time gained over the previous lap. You can also think of this as time the previous lap is behind the PB lap. Looking at the time graph first, you can see that almost all the time difference, 0.6 seconds was made up on the first turn! Section 1: Going to the top graph, the green speed curve starts dropping earlier in distance than the blue. You see the same effect on the acceleration section. The green trace drops earlier than the blue but does come up at the same location. Dropping further to the braking graph, you can see that braking occurred later on the PB lap. The acceleration coming out of the turn is the same for both laps and so the time difference plot shows a flat line at 0.6 seconds. Until section 2: This section is the same as section 1. Time is gained by braking later. Braking was longer on the PB lap, so even though time was gained, it set up a problem for: Section 3: Long braking and late acceleration lost 0.45 seconds in section 3. Each section of the graphs show the Blue is later than the green Section 4: 0.4 seconds of time was regained in section 4 by again, braking later into the turn The rest of the lap follows similar pattern. It's all about when to start braking and when to start accelerating. In general, the overall G's look to be the same, so later braking does not mean harder braking. This probably indicates the car is on a better line. Let me know if you see something different in the squiggles. Thanks Jason for sharing the data. Nice driving!

Man - if I hadn’t pissed away all that time in T3 I had a pretty good thing going. I can still go deeper into 1 and try to work on better initial brake application and keep the trail braking similar. There’s still some grip left on the table too, I need to use more of it and get both directions equal. Thanks for the analysis (AGAIN!)… going to keep pushing to get under 1:20…

So... Decided to go right for the gusto and just pull the bank 2 cat after getting the PO430 code on the way home from the track and wouldn't you know it, I managed to smoke that cat too ! This, I will remind folks is the 30K mile cats I bought off the youtube sub after starting the year off with a PO420 and replacing the bank 1 cat. At the time I figured, hey, I'll just replace both with the 30K mile set and hopefully that will keep me going and I'll have the spare good one off my 85K mile car. Well, now the 85K mile one is going back on. Bonus, when I pulled the pre cat 02 sensor from this cat, it left half the threads in the cat... so now trying to get the 02 back in when the sensors threads are 90% destroyed AND the cat pipes threads are 90% destroyed has worked out... not awesome It's in enough to get me through the next track day, I think and then I am done ****ing around with cats. I'm either gutting the 2 bad ones I have or if Soul wants to hook me up with some deletes - winkidy wink wink - I would be MORE than happy to run those. Either way, no cats for me, I'll have to figure out something with the sound which is fine. 2 dead cats Awesome 02 sensor situation

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I�ve got a full set of used O2 sensors I replaced with new after my rebuild if you�re interested. Worked when I pulled them.

My buddy jobyt hooked me up and I'll have an 02 sensor to replace the one in the car that is mangled and spares ! love having spares. Put a WTB add up for cheap cat deletes or x pipes, shot in the dark to see if I can avoid having to cut open the 2 bad cats I have to gut... but, since I am cheap, and running out of car funds - it's likely the cutting and removal of the cat elements will commence this week. Finally got to take a nice rip this morning after 5 inches of rain in the past 2 days and 1. She RIPS 2. No codes 3. ABS is working. On number 1 - this car absolutely slays back roads, it is THE best handling car on the street I have ever driven, which is kind of surprising given the stiff springs, alignment and all the solid stuff in the suspension. I chalk it up to the ohlins being so good and handling bumps. The car is not skittish at all, I need to drive it on the road more. So: Cat - Fixed (For now) ABS - Fixed Nut, bolt, leak check - Done Brakes bled - Done Ready for Lime Rock on Tuesday with Jack and Aaron - I am JACKED ! I am off to celebrate Americas Birthday with grilled meets, cold brews and my Dad - Everyone, enjoy your 4th AMERICA, **** YEAH

Jason, rip it up!

@zbomb @Jnelso @theprf Good luck Tuesday, I may try to schedule a meeting close by and come visit. Here is something to look at in the meantime. Not saying this is the best way but it got me around. You Tube Brad

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Hope you can stop by and say Hi. And thanks for the lap - it's helpful. I've been really trying to get as much video preparation in as I can to try to take most advantage of the day, the track looks really fun.

996 Gang heading to Limerock Tuesday! Finally got around to oil change and gave the car a once over for the track. Looking forward to the event and ripping it up at Limerock with Aaron and Jason. Maybe some more 996’s will show up.

Yes! I got the conductor plate changed in the Tip so hopefully that holds me over until. I'll see you guys there - I plan to be there about 10:30-11. The driver's meeting is at 12:30 and there's no time after for any pre-session prep! The track's hot at 1.

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That's a nice lap, very good lines especially through the left hander setting up for the right hander. Last time out I sat on the hill above the left hander with the driver who holds the SM2 lap record, and listened to his commentary on the cars as they went through. Under the bridge brake late enough that you're off the brake and turning in at the bridge's shadow. On the power then a lift with no brake for the second part of big bend, don't go further right than centered approaching the left hander, tight to the left to set up the right hander, have at it going to the uphill. I haven't got the guts to come flat out into the downhill turn, though that's what he said to do....

I’m going to shoot for a 10AM arrival. I’m really excited although a small downer, work commitments mean I will be driving back after the event. Going to be a long, hopefully awesome day.

Godspeed tomorrow, Jason! and 996 gang. Take no prisoners.

Gotta start with the good, right... Car made the 2.5HR trip to Lime Rock uneventfully and it wasn't even miserable inside. No codes, noises or other weirdness. At this point, I'm feeling like it's going to be a good day. Get there and link up with Aaron and Jack, like right away - we all got there within 2 minuted of each other, kind of funny. It's at this point I think you all should know - going to the track with your car buds is EFFIN AWESOME ! First time ever at Lime Rock and the track is so cool, from the grounds to the track itself, it's special and I felt it. I have already decided, I'm going to make sure the car is squared away from sound so I can run there more, even with the drive, it's that good. First session get to feel out the track and see in person what I watched a lot of video to prepare for and it is so fun, the compression on the uphill and the downhill is wild, super fun. Unfortunately, I ran my best lap of the day in that first session, I think it was a 1:05 - I haven't looked at any data or even pulled the GoPro out of the car yet. Last lap of the first session the ABS failed, again, and I locked the tires up... I had tricked myself into thinking it was fixed after the test drives and the long drive to the track and was just focusing on learning a line, didn't even see the orange warning LED light up... So, thankfully Aaron had brought his durametric to the track and the code came back 4266 - Return Pump Fault - bummer. I think it was around this time Brad (hbdunn) showed up to hang out which was awesome. Spent the rest of the day playing with things to try to make it better, but nothing stuck. Drove the balance of the sessions very gingerly trying to learn how to drive the car W/O ABS. It was still a ton of fun, and the time learning the track was valuable, so I left pretty happy. The drive home was 3HRS in varying degrees of inclement weather - The NT01 kept me on my tippy toes the whole way home. So, off to try to fix this ABS issue - the issue itself is a real bummer because the car otherwise is running really well right now and I want to rip it, but the lack of ABS has definitely put a dent in my confidence, party just because I see how dependent I am on it. I am open (HOPING FOR) to any suggestions on debugging this ABS fault.

Jason, sorry to hear about the abs. I bet you will get a few concrete solutions from RL members.

That sucks you should try it again but put a fresh depends on to deal with the skid marks on the track and your pants i had to sorry lol Mike

Good luck Jason!

HELP Need ABS Pump PN 996 355 955 52 or 54 or 62 The PN on the module connected to the pump should be 0 265 950 041 Trying to get the part sourced for reasonable money in hand and in the car prior to my next track day on Tuesday - if anyone has a bead on one for short money, let me know. There are a couple on Ebay that will cost me little under 1K with the expedited shipping I'll need and I found one at a dismantler but I need him to send me a picture of the module PN to confirm. Gracias Bros

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Should note this pump is the one used on Mk2 C2's with PSM.

Thanks for the help from the folks trying to get me hooked up, I really appreciate it. Ended up buying off eBay and they shipped overnight. So, we’ll see… Thanks again everyone.

Got tracking for my ABS pump, should be in tomorrow - And Aaron theprf who consistently goes out of his way to help me is letting me borrow his Durametric so I can get the pump installed and bled. If all goes well, I will be back in business for my track day Tuesday at Thompson. Picked up a couple front NT01 for a great deal off FB, the ones on the car are getting to the point I am happy to have fresh sitting in reserve, new tires are awesome. The guy who sold them to me knew the car... I guess it stands out I have to give a massive shout out to Brad hbdunn - Not only did he come hang out with us at Lime Rock, he took some amazing pics - Thank Brad, as good as any track photographer ! Jack Jnelso My favorite shots of Aaron theprf And me...

Pump has landed… I am looking for anyone with experience using the Durametric for the ABS system bleeding. Is this a straightforward process ? I have done some research and believe I have the sequence down but any experience from someone who has actually DONE it would be much appreciated. Thanks.

What kind of lap times are you guys doing around Lime Rock?

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My PB is 1:06.9 but mostly 1:07s and 1:08s, hbdunn did did a 1:04.7 last week and on Tuesday zbomb showed us up with a 1:05 something his first time out at Limerock.

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I turned up a 1:05.3 in the Turbo.

Pump is in - could not get the Dura to activate the pump, said command successfully sent but no pump noises. Other than that, bled per the manual. The pedal feels great, now I need to take it out and test the ABS function, stay tuned for that. Lime Rock times... Yeah, I ran a 1:05.9 on my 7th lap, first session, first time at the track. I am happy with that, but not happy I couldn't push the rest of the day - I think it's got a pretty fast time in it with a 100% car and the experience I gained learning the track with a wounded car. Bench racing... Can't wait to go back. Here's the lap - Don't love it, I was not pushing trying to learn the track and thought I had a full day ahead of me. A lot of not great driving - BUT FUN ! You Tube

Got the car out and worked the ABS at least 10 times - got the brakes as hot as I could get them on the street within reason and the ABS is functioning - I am really hoping I am good. Going forward I am going to either disable the PSM or run all track sessions with it off, I am worried it causes the pump to over work and contributed to the failure - no facts to back this up, just a feeling. Also, the car was overweight with all the sand and dirt I brought back from CT driving through some downright terrible weather... I finally got it cleaned up, top and bottom. Before After

Glad you got the pump in and everything is working. Still can't get over the cost of a new one? Any way to rebuild the old one or is it pretty much a replace and throw item?

I hope I can get it working again Glenn to keep as a spare - just starting to look into ABS pump troubleshooting, looks like some good stuff on the net for DIY repair, no shock with the cost of the units - so, we'll see. I'm at Thompson tomorrow, I know Aaron will be there too - really looking forward to it and keeping my fingers crossed the ABS is good. I am planning to be able to push for some good times tomorrow, in an effort to enhance my situational awareness, I added some LED notification of pace against best lap time of the session, similar to what an Aim Solo does. Basically, if I'm running faster than pace, 1 green LED is lit, if I'm more than 1 second ahead of pace, a 2nd green LED lights up. If I'm slower, a single blue LED is shown. This will make it so I don't have to look at the actual +/- displayed on the dash for an indication of how any given lap is going. I also changed the shift light pattern for the lower gears to give a better cadence with the high RPM ascension speed. Also gave the dash a little flare on startup - the clarity is wonky - I'll get something better eventually but this will do for now My familiarity at Thompson means I'm able to extract a lot more out of the car there than on the other tracks I've run. I think the below data capture really shows what the car is consistently capable of there, the fact that I still have a lot to learn as a driver and the car likely has more in it is a testament to how good the parts combination is working. I feel like over 1.2G of braking and 1.4G of cornering on a driven to the track car is pretty good - Now to go get MORE ! ***ETA*** Rolled over 500 YouTube Subscribers... way more than I thought I would ever get - Big Thanks ! to all my RL homies that have subscribed to the channel ! I really appreciate it.

Kick some butt tomorrow. Looking forward to hearing about it!

All in all, a successful day - fun with Aaron, ABS worked 100% and got a work out, got to gain some experience on a wet/dry track and had a lot of fun. The track had standing, or running water running across it in a couple places and then big sections of damp/dry - it was really pretty fun to work on driving to the track. First session best 1:33.6. Improved in the 2nd session to a 1:29.8 and in the last cut short session ended up with a 1:27.4. The only down side was breaking the zip tie that secured the shift cable to the R,1,3,5 selector about mid-way through the last session ending my day just a little bit short of complete. The car is so much better without the PSM, I'm convinced there's half a second improvement without the PSM induced braking events in dry conditions. Also, the +/- lap time indicator lights worked awesome, meant I could spend even less time looking at the data on the dash. Now that I have that info along with the alarms for things like oil pressure and the oil and water temps etc... all triggering an LED, it's a glance at what LED's are lit and the shift lights - really cool to be able to concentrate on the driving and not have to worry about any of that stuff. Aaron was killing it in the VW today - lots of people checking out the supercharger under the hood

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I'm sure the ABS got a good workout, I know mine did. That should give you good confidence that the return pump problem has been banished.

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Would not say 100% to confidence, but feeling pretty good. Some laps from the day, not fast - but fun You Tube

Here's my new, hopefully permanent fix for the shift cable popping out of its bracket. Also, started on getting the elements out of the cats - what a **** job this is... I keep telling my self...nice cats are 2K - persevere ! No final pics - the weather drove me out of my "doing **** work" workshop - the front yard so I figured I'd take a break.

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I'm with you on the cats as well. Close to having to replace them and they are the most expensive part of the damn exhaust compliments of the materials used. Hopefully someday soon, the global supply chains open up and manufacturers become over stocked and run a sale.

Cat deletes finished. Not only was this a feee mod, even after paying someone to weld them up - I made a little money

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You've got a couple of nice expansion chambers there...will be interested if you see any performance changes!

So, what does a couple pounds of cat guts go for these days ??

Yeah, they are stealing cats off of cars here in Chicago for the internals. Looking forward to hearing them!

Here in Bama thieves will take a Sawzall and cut the cats off cars in the Grocery Store parking lot. Owners will crank up to leave and their cars sound a lot louder..lol

Hah... Nothing like the sound of a free flow exhaust on a Honda civic.

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with the fart cans typically installed, how would they know the difference?

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$120 for them... Cost me $100 for the welding. a 20 spot and hopefully some new horsepowers is pretty good. I think it's going to be stupid loud, having someone that can weld frees me up to get a muffler setup done though...we'll see when that will happen...

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Jason, cool project. Curious on how much it changes your power band. What are you thinking for a muffler set-up?

I really would like to get the car on a dyno to do cats vs. no cats but I haven�t been able to make the time work with anyone within a reasonable drive. And since any power impact for me that means anything will be measured in seconds or MPH, it�s not a huge priority. As I�m keeping the in-tact cats that are currently on the car good to use in case of need, I can always run the test later. I want to run 2 exhausts, the way it is now with just the bullet mufflers when sound isn�t an issue and something that is as quiet as possible without adding a ton of weight back in for sound restrictive tracks with the end goal of making sound at Lime Rock muffled days. I�m going to get some measurements this week of what I have for real estate and then come up with some ideas�

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Can't remember if you mentioned, did you ever do software, plenum and throttle body? If not, you will have a good baseline to judge plus/minus improvements depending on how far you go.

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All stock… only airflow mods on the exhaust side - cause they’re cheap and save a boat ton of weight, any power gain has been a benefit of the weight reduction goal. I don’t see anything to tell me the investment in TB/Plenum to be worth it. I would love to play with tuning the ECU though, specific for my use to include dyno and track tuning but the market for that seems to be non existent. Back in my Evo days, there was open source tuning software available for the stock ECU that was quite powerful, I wish something analogous existed for our cars.

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Smart! FVD used to have software that you could tune. Dont know if they still do.

Hope this doesn't get you banned everywhere with a sound limit!!

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Well - I've never seen them kick anyone out of Thompson for sound, the rest of my days besides our Lime Rock day are there. I do want to run Palmer at least one more time this year and will have to have something in place to get by there... I'm working on it. So - Interesting news... earlier today I said I could run a test with the stock cats Vs. deletes... yeah - can't. BOTH of the cats I just pulled off the car were bad, failed 1st element exactly the way my other 2 have failed. Got the deletes on and the rest of the exhaust, Aaron told me my neighbors will think poorly of me (he's smart) if I gave it a couple rev limiter taps with the new setup so no sound clips yet...

Quick clip for anyone interested in the sound of the new setup, figured I'd grab a quick clip when I put it into the garage after a quick rip and wash. Ready for the track on Thursday, You Tube

Next internet challenge for Zbomb: which is louder, a straight piped m96 or mezger? Between 100 and 101 at cold idle Cold start peak was 109db and blipping the throttle to 4k was peak 126db. My neighbor came over as I was doing this laughing his *** off and saying that this is a sign I'm clearly the worse neighbor with a decibel meter in hand measuring how obnoxiously loud my car was. After which we checked his 60s mustang which came in at 90db idle and 118db revving. I win. Video proof: https://photos.app.goo.gl/znzJdC5X5ShpM7c77

DB meter inbound my guy - you're on. And technically, I have 2 mufflers Work for the day was the removal of one rad fan and shroud with big venting for the wheel liner. This should allow greater airflow through the rad at track speeds. I am going to recreate the liner venting on the other side but not for a bit, just ran out of time this weekend.

I think that ought to improve airflow! We've actually had a fairly cool summer, so far.

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I don�t see how it can hurt. This summer, July specifically has blew with the constant rain. Really hoping Thursday is dry and we see a turn for the better. Thanks for watching the videos. Shift is generally at red line or as close to it as I can get. There are times on track where a short shift makes more sense (to me) when holding the gear means I will hit the limiter before getting to the braking point. It feels like the car makes peak power up high, like above 6K RPM and under 3.5K feels very slow and like the car does not like seeing high load at those RPM�s. The weight is back in the thread, I want to say off memory it was 2950 with a half tank of gas.

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If there are no rivers across the track I will be happy. Last Wednesday actually turned into a really nice day @ Palmer, I'd guess half the drivers no-showed. There were only 8 in the advanced group! I had too much fun, I guess, I corded my R888R's after 8 track days so now scrambling to find something for Thursday. Those stinkin' Spec Miata guys have bought up all the tires in my size.

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Looks like you�ll need to bring the turbo�

bring that thing to njmp in august for the schattenbaum DE at the club race. would be interesting to compare oil pressure and temp notes.

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NJMP too far until I have a trailer QC - 5.5HRS. Likely next season.

Track day tomorrow - Great ! Weather looks like its going to get crappy right when track time starts ! BOOOO We'll just have to see how it plays out, going in with some pretty low expectations compared to hoping for a second or two off as of a couple days ago. Good news, car is ready - running 3/4 capacity on oil, I'll be working that UAOS drain back hard, hopefully PS - detail after track season to get all the tire marks off her... badges of honor for the moment

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Hope you have a dry track this afternoon. Have fun.

Thanks Jack - Aaron and I are here and dryish� for now.

Man - Did today KICK *** ! Yes, yes it certainly did... kicked it up and down, left and right ! The weather was constantly looming but Aaron and I were able to get 1.5 dry session, half a session of misting and I wrote off the last session as it actually started raining and I had already.... RAN A PB 1:20.8 !!!! in the 1 full dry session. Man, I'm HYPED ! The car worked great, still building up a little confidence in the brakes, was a little soft on them vs, the pre ABS / multiple off track excursions days (can see it in the data) but I saw 1.6G of lateral and was around 1.5 very consistently, that is just a **** ton of grip and does it feel GREAT. Gotta give FSI some credit on the PB - towards the end of the lap I saw a 996 with FSI banners coming into view, it provided great motivation to push the stock M96 just a little bit harder - you'll have to watch the video to see how that plays out Also - Thanks Aaron and Skip and Randy and DE Aaron and Ryan and Jack and Brad and Paul and Glenn all my 996 homies hanging out in this thread - you guys are the collective **** ! You Tube

Glad you guys had a pretty good day. 1:20.8 is AWSOME, way to go!

Thanks for the props !!! Great video, you are looking good and fast !!!!

Jason, a lot of good things to unpack in the video. Congrats on your time. You are carrying a lot of speed. Your car is really rotating with the PSM off and LSD doing its job. Can't get over the water temps being substantially lower with your mods. Oil temps are still high. Your mods plus new radiators (CSF) and low temp thermos will certainly help with more water cooling. Oil cooling still is an issue and hoping LN has moved forward with bracket fabrication ideas for their new oil cooler. Further mitigating oil starvation with improved flow with the UIDS will also be a huge benefit. ​​​​​​ Pretty obvious all your hard work is paying off with track times and quantifying ways to improve engine durability with specific mods and procedures. 👍

Thanks guys ! Spent a little time looking over data for general stuff and this table below is one I really like. Speed high and low, Braking G max, Lateral G max left and right and average RPM. When speeds and AVG RPMs are up - lap times are down. Although, one would assume those things to be true, I think looking at the data points is cool and shows the limits I was able to find over any given lap.

Some cool pics and a longer video from the 2nd session at Thompson, itching to get back on track. You Tube

Love the photo of you and the FSI car.

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Jake said that is the car in his sig, his wife�s land speed car with 4 world records. I like this one best.

Current List of Modifications and setup for anyone wanting something comprehensive... Drivetrain: UAOS W/Drainback 996.1 Dip Stick - oil level run at FULL mark LN Spin On Filter W/1042 Filters LN 2 QT Deep Sump and Baffle LN Skid Plate Driven XP9 Oil Straight Pipe Exhaust - 2 Small Bullet Mufflers Direct Feed IMS Bearing AC Delete Drivers Side Radiator Fan and Shroud Delete Magnetic Oil Drain Plug OS Giken Limited Slip Diff Porsche Factory Trans Fluid Aero / Exterior GT3 Lip Joe Toth 987 Dive Planes Cup Side Skirts Cup Mirrors Cup CF Decklid Cup Wing Vented Fender Liner Rennline Tow Hook Suspension Ohlins - 515 lbs/in F, 800 lbs/in R Swift Springs Ohlins Remote Dampening Adjusters Elephant F Top Mounts Elephant F LCA Rear ADJ Toe Arm Cup Rear Upper Arms Cup Sway Bar Rear Tarrett Drop Links F + R Brakes: Hawk DTC 60 Pads Castrol SRF Fluid GT3 front Brake Ducts Sebro Slotted Rotors 996 Cup Master Cylinder Wheels / Tires: BBS E88 18x9+50 F, 18x11+67 R ECS 10MM Front Spacer Nitto NT01 245 F 305 R Rear wheel wells clearance aggresively Data: Aim MXL2 in CF Mount Sensors - Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, Steering Angle, Brake Pressure (Oil Temp and Pressure mounted in an oil filter sandwich plate installed with the LN SOFA) Interior / Misc: Recaro SPG BK Fixed Mount Driver Sparco Evo BK Stock Slider Brackets Passanger OMP Steering Wheel Cup Quick Release Radio Delete W/ Window Switches, Horn and Data Link located in Delete Plate RSS 930 Roll Bar Schroth Harness Driver and Passenger CAE Shifter Rennline Track Mat Driver Odyssey PC680 Battery in Rennline Mount W/ Killswitch Fire Extinguisher Mounted on Rollbar Mostly gutted, no airbags, speakers, rear seat belt, carpet, sound deadening Alignment Settings and Weight

Freekin awesome list!

Thanks for posting this! I and I'm sure quite a few have been wondering what the set up looks like to date. What dampening settings are you running on the Ohlins? I have my street setting just about dialed in and want to play with stiffer settings for when needed.

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I think I’m like right in the middle of adjustment, I really don’t mess with them, maybe once or twice a season but at the moment, the car is handling so good - I haven’t touched any suspension settings in a while. Next change will be a touch more camber in the front to get tire wear perfect. Something that was NOT perfect has been brake feel. As I’ve gained experience and been able to feel more of what the car is doing underneath me, the long travel and general sponginess of the brakes really started bugging me. I’ve obsessively bled them and could never get them to where I felt they were really confidence inspiring. Function was OK but the feel was not where it needs to be. So… Today I installed a 996 Cup Master Cylinder and I am jacked up, pedal is firm and travel feels so much shorter, I should have put in a long time ago. Obviously, a fresh fill of SRF and system bleed to go along with it. ETA... Install is pretty much plug and play, I did have to reuse my reservoir as it has the outlet for the line that runs to the PSM. The Master Cylinder itself just bolted up. It has the M12 and M10 fitting size which was the same as came stock on my car, so no adapters needed. Also, from the data I could see that even with the PSM turned off, I was still seeing limited intervention (brakes applied while at WOT). So, I disconnected the PSM connector and now don’t have to worry about remembering to hit the button. Anyone know if I can just connect the master port that runs to the PSM direct to the ABS module ? I’m not sure if the pressure out of the master gets metered or altered running the loop through the PSM pump. Ideally, I’d connect the master direct to ABS module and lose the 3 LBS (estimated) weight of the PSM pump. So, PSM dead for good and brakes feel like they were majorly upgraded. The car got better today.

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Yes. You will need the brake line from a Boxster or GT3. Boxster is 13mm lines, GT3 is 11, if I remember right.

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Thanks Chris, does the PSM pump do anything that, in its absence may **** the ABS off ? As of now, ABS is happy with the Cup master and PSM unplugged.

Can you take a picture to compare the std master vs the cup master? There must be a significant difference in the diameter of the pistons in the master to make the pedal travel shorter. Very cool upgrade.

Paul, I measured them. Working off of memory, the housing was 2MM larger on the Cup part.

Jim Pace (RIP) ****ing Legend - There is no better way to kill a Sunday AM than a cup of coffee and riding with Jim. You Tube

Pace was awesome. Looking forward to the day that we can both be at a DE event at Road America. You and your set-up will shine. Got a lot of good racing today. Chris is coming up soon and IMSA at Road America. Got family stuff to do today so I may get into trouble trying to watch on my phone.

About 12HRS Track time (little under 2K TOT miles including street) on these NT01 - I love these tires.

Sheesh, I hammered the R888R's on my VW into the cords in 8 track hours plus 1k street miles. That's on a lighter, slower car. I think suspension setup matters .

Matt and Aim put up a webinar today using my data from the last Thompson day. They cover a lot on how to configure the software to review areas of importance, in my use case a lot on oil pressure and driver improvement. If you have some time to kill, give it a watch. You Tube

From their discussion, it looks like 1:19 should be a piece of cake! I need to look at saving the profiles. I'm using the older version that doesn't save them. And, they have some really cool XY plots that I'll start putting up. Thanks for this.

I knew you’d dig it Paul… don’t tell them I’ve already got sights on 1:17 haha.

What to do the night before an event when I have nothing to fix... Take the kids out for ice cream - my baby Livy got the ride there and my little Man Tyler the ride home - Mom drove the SUV Street Car

Ice cream is my favorite� Jason� do you think any of the front aero you did make any noticeable difference?

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I don't feel anything on the aero side, I just don't think I'm calibrated sensitively enough as a driver. I have a very rough understanding of aero and why it's helpful and know that on the relatively slow V Max tracks here in the North East, I don't see a big drag penalty for sticking as much down force as I can on the car. I have been running the rear wing at max angle of attack and the overall balance of the car feels awesome. It's one of those things, I can't feel it, but I know it's there and helping.

hey Zbomb sorry if mentioned already but what BHP does yours currently make? Is it a 3.4L? Thanks :-)

It’s a stock 3.6.