99 996 Bank 2 can Deviation

Ok, just finished putting the engine back in the car. Upon initial start up everything ran fine then as it warms up it starts running rough. Checked the codes and got P1324 and P1539 both are cam deviation bank 2. So, I bought a durametric and at start up the deviation is 0.00 on both sides then as it warms up Bank one goes to -3.0 and Bank 2 goes to 25.0. I then did a start stop on the solenoid for bank 1 and really ran rough. Did it for bank 2 no change. I put new solenoids on both banks. The question is, do I have a bad actuator? Not really looking forward to dropping the motor again if I don�t have too. I checked to see if I had voltage at the solenoid plug and I do have power. I also tested the solenoid and it does sound like it�s engaging. I also did the IMS any change that could be causing it or would it be bad on both cams? Really just want to be driving her again!! Thought!!

How did you decide that the solenoid(s) was the only thing needed to be replaced?

Quotes source post: 19638715

I tested bank 2 which was bad so replaced both.

With a P1539 & @ 25� advance, and not retracting till it cools down on cold start, sounds like the vario cam actuator is possibly sticking. Either needs to be replaced or rebuilt. They cost around $1300 new iirr, Hartech sells a rebuild o-ring kit much much cheaper. jmo

I agree that the actuator is in need of replacement. It's unusual that bank 2 has gone first on your car. It's normally bank 1. The replacement of the actuator for bank 2 is very hard to do with engine inside the car so you should remove the engine for that job. Unless you really trust your rebuild skills with the seal kit ($100+), you should just replace the actuator ($1,000+) and not have to take the engine back out.

OP I would check and confirm cam timing before taking any additional steps. Reason being 25 degrees is consistent with 2 skipped teeth. Possible that timing is so severely out on Bank 2 that you just can't see any change with variocam on that bank. If cam timing checks out then yes, actuator rebuild time.

Lots of possibilities on a newly rebuilt engine, you could have the bank 1 and 2 actuators swapped ( they are bank specific), you could have the small timing chain not timed correctly ..or could have issues internally with the actuators.. I would think you need to eliminate any possible assembly errors first..

Quotes source post: 19639644

This is a month old thread brought back to life by other than the OP, with no conclusions, But, this does bring up an interesting subject worth continuing imo I'd normally would agree with ya, but... Since OP says the cam timing does change from 0 to 25�, from cold starts to hot running, and then stays/sticks at 25 when warm, then goes back to 0 on cold starts, it shows the actuator is working sometimes,,, probably till it gets hot then binds up from swollen/busted seals...? So if it does go to 0� at any time, then it can't be off 2 teeth static timing,, can it..? Suppose what PT3 suggested is possible. But,,, Not sure what swapping the actuators (to incorrect banks) from bank 1 to bank 2 would cause. Not sure if that could cause intermittent problems like OP experiences. would think whatever problem this would cause would be permanent till actuators are put in their proper positions.... I stick by my previous diagnosis, 'bad actuator'. jmo

Yeah, I have seen so many simple problems on newly assembled engines that cause people to turn flips, I always consider them.. On the 5 chain the physical timing tool goes on the exhaust cam, while the digital timing is "read" on the intake cam.... The intake cam has to be timed on the "bench" by counting the links, then both cams,chain, actuator assembly has to be installed without changing the chain position. It has happened many times that the chain will jump a tooth or two while they are wrestling all that into place.. That actuators are bank specific with bank marking on them...I have seen many people think they are the same and not keep up with which one goes on which side, or think they keep them in order, but install them on the wrong side... Also when clearing the fault code the deviation always reverts back to "0".. then has to take a little time to evaluate... while I agree the actuator is probably failing from a 10 cent rubber O'ring, I didn't want him to overlook the other common possibilities...

Quotes source post: 19682574

I replaced both actuators on a 5-chain engine once. The Parts Guy at the dealer pulled up the two different part numbers and proceeded to order two of the same part numbers. I was not his QA manager so I installed them and guessed what, it had to be done again. I was not happy with him but since then we have become buddies.

Quotes source post: 19683296

Right ....Parts Guys are just parts guys and are not Technicians...lol ...always double check their work.... ...they are only good for coming up with updated/superseded part numbers...

I was a parts guy at a Mercedes Benz dealership for many years( was tech for years before) I would correct techs when they were on the wrong track by they incorrect parts they were ordering.Some techs would purposely order parts that weren’t in stock so they could get out working on the car,because they were in way over their head.😳

@Mpfaff You were an exceptional Parts Man. Most Parts guys did not come from being Technicians and learn a lot from the older Technicians over the years.. Parts guys and Service Managers who were Techs first wee the most enjoyable to work with....At Porsche I had 5 different Service Managers in 10 years from different backgrounds. Some were promoted from Service Writers, some had a background former Technicians, some were former Business Men, one was even a Female......( The Female was my alltime favorite..lol) No matter the job in this field it seemed to take about 10 years for them to become well rounded and very competent...