Water pump and/or thermostat

Hi Everyone, So now I've had Sally (04 Carerra manual) for three months and had some scares occuring during the revealing process. One of which (and thank you again to Chip) the bank one scavenger pump being 180 degrees out. Thank god I didn't hydrolock the engine or cause any other issues. Leakdown shows less than 10% accross all six pots. I'm currently getting the lower oil pressure warning when the engine is hot. I'm replacing the oil pressure sender (needle bounces all over the place once hot) and the updated oil pressure relief value (piston and spring) hoping that will sort that out At the same time all suspension arms, dampers etc. with alignment and new boots (PS4Ss). Also fresh engine oil and gearbox oil. So on to the next 'project' or research is cooling, water pump and thermostat. Here in Sydney we're starting to get 30 degree days as we head into summer. I'm aware of cleaning out the radiators etc. but my question is to this 71 degree (160F?) LN thermostat. My car, under the previous owner, got a new water pump in 2022 (along with expansion tank and some pipes etc..) . There's no mention of a thermostat on the invoice. The previous owner was emphatic about only using Porsche genuine parts so I can only assume that the pump is of composite type? My questions are * would a new pump come with a thermostat? or is it always a separate order? trying to workout if the thermostat is very old or not * Is there a way to workout if it does have a 71 degree (I got some paperwork from the previous owner... there's every posibility it was done earlier on...) * Is this 71 degree thermostat almost a must have? It will get driven hard but only once warmed up and not tracked. * If this is "yea get it happening" the my next question is it easy for a mech to fit without too much labour (i.e no need to drop the engine) / can it be replaced with the current pump? * On the LN Engineering site it mentions the need for a special tool - is that a need for joe public or is it needed for this thermostat Cheers everyone!

The low temp thermostat is a good idea. Thermostat is sold separately, although you may buy it bundled with a new water pump at LNE. The replacement may be done with the engine in place. I'm unsure if you need the special tool, but I think they may lend it to you. This may help with determining if you already have the low temp thermostat. If you drive your car on a relatively cool morning, the temperature on mine rises to the line near 180 then falls back below the line before going back to just over the line and resting on the number 8. It definitely takes longer to reach operating temperature compared to the stock thermostat, but I got used to it. While you or your tech are in there, you might check the hoses.

The opening temperature is embossed on the valve inside the thermostat, so ultimately you would see it when replacing it. Special tool only required if you get the thermostat separately in order to fit it inside the alloy housing that then bolts up to the engine. I'd keep the 2022 genuine waterpump as damage (to the engine case) from a non-genuine one with a metal impeller is worse imho.

My very first experience with a 997 thermostat where the stat came separate from the housing was non-plus. The "special tool" is just something to push down on the thermostat spring and turn it 15-30 degrees out from under the mounting tabs. I did not have the special tool, but the one that came between my ears told me how to proceed. Since then, I have always bought the thermostat with housing and just pop it on. As for whether the water pump came with plastic impeller, I think if you change the water pump every 60,000 miles, you won't have to worry about what impeller it has.

You can see the thermostat clearly if you look. I would check and see if it looks like it�s new. The aluminum will be brighter than everything else. The tstat is only 4 bolts to remove. The biggest part of that job is draining and refilling the coolant.

Quotes source post: 19683110

You can assume that, but you can�t truly guarantee it until you crack it open to take a look.

Quotes source post: 19684725

Agreed.. and the independant he was using honouring his wishes.

The thermostat is much easier to do with the water pump removed. But you can possibly do it with the pump in place. Coolant will need to be replaced and the system bled afterwards. You really should do both at 1 time, but it's not a requirement. If it were me, I'd go ahead an pull the water pump out and at a minimum replace the gasket just to make things easier. Most likely I'd bite the bullet and replace the water pump too. It's a costly part, but nothing compared to the expense a failed water pump can cause. The special tool makes swapping thermostat in the housing easier, but it certainly isn't required.