13 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHBrake Caliper Rebuild and Repaint
Leading reported evidence
Use mild mix of oil eater and water
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
When changing out the caliper cyl seal be sure to clean the groove grunge out spotlessly, to avoid the seal being pushed out ever so slightly causing the piston to hang up and brakes drag.
Leading evidence: 'Use mild mix of oil eater and water' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean groove grunge out spotlessly' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Suggestion
When changing out the caliper cyl seal be sure to clean the groove grunge out spotlessly, to avoid the seal being pushed out ever so slightly causing the piston to hang up and brakes drag.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
8: I would not recommend soaking calipers seals (EPDM rubber) in any cleaning solution who's data sheet doesn't specifically state it is safe for EPDM rubber...especially used cleaning solutions that has a bunch of unknown mess dissolved in it already...very well might have something that reacts with or affects the rubber.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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1
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Suggestion · Original poster
I knew I wasn't going to be able to repair the bleeder w/o a press but since I didn't have one I tried it and failed.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Clean groove grunge out spotlessly
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
When changing out the caliper cyl seal be sure to clean the groove grunge out spotlessly, to avoid the seal being pushed out ever so slightly causing the piston to hang up and brakes drag.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
8: I would not recommend soaking calipers seals (EPDM rubber) in any cleaning solution who's data sheet doesn't specifically state it is safe for EPDM rubber...especially used cleaning solutions that has a bunch of unknown mess dissolved in it already...very well might have something that reacts with or affects the rubber.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Suggestion
The only reliable way to do this is to fixture the caliper in a milling machine or a very rigid drill press, locate using the small port in the bottom of the hole, then drill for your insert but set the quill stop such that you re-cut the seat and allow the cutter to make at least one full revolution while against the quill stop.
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Suggestion
5: Put away the hardware store silicone spray and slide pin lube...you use caliper assembly lube to assemble a caliper, not the grease designed for slide pins on floating calipers and to smear on the back of brake pads to supposedly help with noise (or just make a mess).
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Suggestion
Applying a side load to the piston can damage the piston or bore, and using a forcing tool of sorts before you've got the piston through the seal can easily cut the seal.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
13 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
I own two 996 911s. I have been restoring Pepper, my 2002 Carrera cabriolet since March of 2021. As I approach the end of rescuing this car I've got a few more cosmetic things to address. A few of the remaining tasks is to lower the car, add wheel spacers and rebuild/repaint the brake calipers. I've already taken car of suspension in the previous video so all I have left is repainting the brake calipers and spacers. In addition, Yogi-Mama will be using her Silhouette Cameo to cut out new, heat resistant decals for the front. So here's Part two of this DIY project. Enjoy!
You Tube
Good effort, but there's a whole hell of a lot wrong in that video.
1: Media blasting (glass bead or other mild abrasive) is a much more effective way to clean the caliper...leave the bleeders in, plug the inlet, and leave the pistons and boots in to protect the anodizing in the bores and threaded areas.
2: Not sure what solution you used in your ultrasonic, but especially with aluminum, rinse the thing as soon as it comes out of the tank and blow dry. There are a whole lot of cleaners out there (especially those containing lye) that do not play nice with aluminum over extended periods of time.
3: Clean those pistons! Not sure if that's soap scum or other schmoo or what, but a quick scotchbrite job will make those look brand new and won't hurt the anodizing.
4: Put the boots on the pistons first before attempting to install...much easier this way.
5: Put away the hardware store silicone spray and slide pin lube...you use caliper assembly lube to assemble a caliper, not the grease designed for slide pins on floating calipers and to smear on the back of brake pads to supposedly help with noise (or just make a mess).
6: I think you'll find that your choice of paint will be subpar, I've never had good luck with that paint. Catalyzed paints/clears seem to hold up well, nothing else really does (and looks good).
7: Bleeder repair: This is not just a threaded hole, as you've found out. The seat at the bottom of the hole, as well as the port at the bottom of the hole need to remain concentric and on the same axis as the threaded hole. The seat also needs to be uniform over it's 360� to seal properly. The only reliable way to do this is to fixture the caliper in a milling machine or a very rigid drill press, locate using the small port in the bottom of the hole, then drill for your insert but set the quill stop such that you re-cut the seat and allow the cutter to make at least one full revolution while against the quill stop. Cut your threads and install the insert all in the same fixturing with the tool in the chuck / collet. Trying to do it by hand will not hold alignment and the caliper ends up in a scrap pile. We have successfully performed hundreds of bleeder thread repairs, but it's tough if someone already tried and failed.
8: I would not recommend soaking calipers seals (EPDM rubber) in any cleaning solution who's data sheet doesn't specifically state it is safe for EPDM rubber...especially used cleaning solutions that has a bunch of unknown mess dissolved in it already...very well might have something that reacts with or affects the rubber. Rebuild kits are cheap...just replace the seals.
9: Never use channelocks to assemble a caliper. If a clamp must be used (and only AFTER the pistons has be inserted PAST THE SEAL by hand...use a "C" clamp. Applying a side load to the piston can damage the piston or bore, and using a forcing tool of sorts before you've got the piston through the seal can easily cut the seal. If the piston isn't going in by hand...it's either hanging up on the seal and needs a bit more rocking back and forth to finesse it through the seal, inadequate lube was used, or we've got the wrong seal in the wrong bore.
When using the VHT caliper paint, it doesn't seem like primer is necessary. The VHT site (
https://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-caliper-paint
) doesn't mention primer at all. That high-temp engine primer will probably not work well in the long run.
All good points. Appreciate you taking the time to provide me your thoughts.
This was my first attempt at rebuilding these. I knew I wasn't going to be able to repair the bleeder w/o a press but since I didn't have one I tried it and failed. Lesson learned.
Seals were in great shape so no need to replace. And FYI, the price on a kit is stupid expensive for what you get. If you absolutely need to replace them then yes buy it. Otherwise save your money.
I used a mild mix of Oil Eater and water. No heat. Everything was rinsed afterwards. I'll do the scotchbrite next time.
The paint does indeed suck. However it became less delicate once I baked it in the oven at 200F for 30 minutes. Still not great.
The brakes are on the car and I've bedded in the pads. No issues to report.
Racingbrake.com and girodisk.com also sell the oil seal/dust boot kits. I have bought from both places with good results. The Porsche kits only have the dust boots - Porsche does not include oil seals.
Always wondered why no piston cyl seal in the Porsche kits. To me its the most important seal in the caliper. Although the outer dust boot is also important. but to me any kit without both is not complete.
When changing out the caliper cyl seal be sure to clean the groove grunge out spotlessly, to avoid the seal being pushed out ever so slightly causing the piston to hang up and brakes drag.
jmo
Brembo does it a bit odd on "kits" sold through the OEM. Most times they have a boot kit and then a piston and seal kit. Sometimes only a boot kit, sometimes nothing.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
