New ignition switch issue.

Car wouldn�t crank in the morning when cold or after sitting for a few days. By not crank I mean the ignition would do nothing when moved to the start position/position 2. After a few tries it would crank right up which let me know it was the switch that was worn out. I was also getting the every once in a while electrical symptom that lined up with the ignition switch symptoms (buggy electronics, check engine lights, dash flickering, the nice in a blue moon a momentary hesitation, etc) Replaced the switch, expected it to start first attempt, nothing. Took 5 tries before it started. Cycled it a few times and it started everytime after those 5 attempts of nothing�. I even got an airbag error on one of the attempts when trying to start it. Not saying this switch is bad, but it not starting after a few tries and it being a brand new is suspect, so let�s just hypothetically say it is also bad�besides replacing the switch again, what is the next line of action after the ignition switch? Something to note is that my key needs to be replaced as well. The key blade is fine, but the fob was eating batteries for about two weeks then finally a new battery in the fob did nothing. Would a new programed key be next step taken? A new fob is on order anyways, because I like having a fob lol.

Sounds like the fob might be the culprit. No spare to try? If not a bad switch component (the plastic back end with the connectors), sometimes my indy said they replace the whole "pistol" as it's referred to.

So, tried my other key, red light comes on when I press a button, but maybe 1/10, if that, unlocks/locks the door. Same symptom when going in the car and trying to start it, nothing happens when trying to crank it. I dunno if it was coincidence that when I jiggled it it started on the 3rd try, but it did. So probably not the switch? Likely the tumbler?

Might be. What' i've heard referred to as the "pistol" I believe has the sensor for the key, tumbler, steering lock stuff. Someone may (surely) has more experience with that, but if both keys are flakey, I'd look into that. A good bit more work than the plastic plug on switch you replaced.

My key physically functions normally (springs back, comes in and out as it should, not hard to insert remove, etc) and the steering lock functions as it should. Almost everything says it�s just the switch� Another thread a few years old had another guy with the same issue and nobody answered as it probably got lost in the discussion of the thread.

I had this happen to me in the spring. I used an audi switch. Was in car for 4 years, less than 3000 miles. I replaced the switch with a known URO switch. Again, car still wouldn't start and I had an airbag light. I ended up having the car towed. After a couple days, shop ignored my switch comments that it couldn't be the switch. They replaced the switch. And all was back to normal again! I still don't understand why! Only suspicion I had was that the switch wasn't well seated. That is just a guess.

I have seen a thread mentioning defective new switches, especially non-oem. Guess it could be a bad Parr you got.

I have seen a thread mentioning defective new switches, especially non-oem. Guess it could be a bad Part you got. Cheaper and quicker than the whole mechanism. Especially if part was warranted!

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I�m thinking that may be the issue. I pushed the switch in good, so I know it�s seated well. The airbag light came on yesterday when starting the car, so I think I got a bad brand new switch. Yup, just saw that�I think I may have gotten a bad brand new switch.

Anecdotally I've been seeing lots of posts on various forums, various brands; about broken brand new parts out of box. There has been a serious, sharp quality decline in the last 6 months according to various techs posting on subreddits such as Just Rolled In to the Shop. I would not rule out a bad new part at all. Lucky for you it's a cheap one to float on the return cycle.

Yeah, it�s not just been limited to automotive industry, the bicycle industry since the beginning of the year has been an absolute ****show for defective and even broken parts straight out of the box. My shipping/warranty bill before the beginning of this year used to be MAYBE $100/mo�it was consistently $700-800/mo up until August� I decided to take a sledgehammer to drive in a thumbtack and ended up ordering the official Porsche part and a new key fob from Pelican Parts. If the issue is still there after a newly programmed key (which I needed anyways) and a new switch, we�ll have a bigger issue at hand�

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I work in the IT industry. The quality of hardware, software, and support industry-wide has gone completely to **** in the last year or two. Hmmm...., I wonder why?!?!

It�s bananas that the rubber band effect of QC has taken this long to finally hit the market though�no product availability, so they ramp up production, then the stuff that gets here has no QC�. Like none. Example? I got a set of $1200 bicycle cranks for a customer�there was no hole for the pedal. Another instance there was a hole, but it wasn�t threaded. And another instance had the hole threaded, but there was a giant glob of something somehow welded in the threads�. It�s nuts how many hands it went through and ALMOST made it all the way to the consumer.

It got worse this morning. I would be driving down the road and the dome light and airbag light just came on. I�d touch the top of my key, slightly press down, and the dome light and airbag light would turn off. I�d take my finger off and the lights would come back on�did this about 4 more times and it stayed off�definitely the switch, right? So weird�.

Well, swapped out with a Genuine Porsche switch and holy crap, the old switch must�ve been deteriorating really slowly and the new switch was absolute dog**** cause the car runs MUCH smoother now. Idle is smoother as well. It also starts much stronger. who woulda though so much was dependent on that ignition switch other than just switching the car on??? New key fob gets programmed Friday, so it�ll be nice to have a fob again.

Since Nate suffered through a similar issue to mine regarding the ignition switch, I also want to highlight a couple of things. In 2019, swapped out my factory switch for a URO switch. Car worked fine. Then I discovered I could get the audi switch which is identical to porsche factory switch. A couple of days later, I installed the audi switch. Note, at this point, the URO switch was confirmed to have worked. Fast forward to spring 2023. Having same issues as Nate. I change the switch back to URO switch - known to be working in 2019. Still couldn't start car. Had car towed, Indie replaced switch etc. etc. So, is conclusion here that even if the switch is unused (ie. URO), it still ages (corrodes) and becomes inoperable? Should the switch just be changed regardless of mileage to avoid these problems (like IMS, Water Pump etc LOL).?

My Porsche switch actually was the Audi one�came in a Porsche box but has an Audi emblem on it. The one that came out of the car was the one the car was built with and was an Audi switch. So basically there�s a $17 Porsche tax on it as the Audi switch is $90, compared to the Porsche one that�s $107�.they�re literally the same switch.