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1999 with 41k miles or 2004 with 70k?

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YOUR RESEARCH1999 with 41k miles or 2004 with 70k?

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Recommend when you do

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You need to own a Porsche to join, but highly recommended when you do.

1999 with 41k miles or 2004 with 70k?
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Replace every 5k miles)

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and some others........(but note I didn't list oil changes every 5K miles).

1999 with 41k miles or 2004 with 70k?
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Recommend when you do

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Suggestion

You need to own a Porsche to join, but highly recommended when you do.

1999 with 41k miles or 2004 with 70k?

Replace every 5k miles)

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Suggestion

and some others........(but note I didn't list oil changes every 5K miles).

1999 with 41k miles or 2004 with 70k?
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POST 1 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I currently have my eyes set on two 996's as an entry into the 911 scene. One is a 1999 with 41k miles for $36k, the other is a 2004 with 70k miles for $31k. I know there is some differences between the 99/01s and the later models, but is 5 years older and almost half the mileage worth the extra $5k? Also concerned about reliability between to two years, so open to any experience with that. Will do a PPI still before purchasing but wondering which one to inquire about first. Cheers!

POST 2Original post

This is actually a fairly broad question with several variables. Just some random thoughts.... ​​1) Do a little research on 99's (996.1) vs '04 (996.2). Both are great cars, but '99s have some unique features, e.g. cable throttle, fried egg (yellow/white) on early cars, double row IMSB, etc. '04s have bigger motor, more power. I have an '04 coupe with 70k and love it. 2) The extent of maintenance history will be a significant factor in making a choice. Even with low miles, the '99 should have had regular oil and brake fluid fluid changes and probably at least one major service. If not, budget for bringing either car up to date. As an immediate consideration, confirm condition and build dates on tires; this would entail a $1000-$1400 expense. 3) Are there differences in options (or color) that make one more attractive than the other? Sounds like two good, but different alternatives.

POST 3 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I completely agree, been brushing up on the 996.1 vs 996.2 difference. The 40k is in Mirage Metallic which I quite like - and the 70k is in black which can never go wrong with. The 1999 is also manual while the 2004 has a TipS - which I'm torn between but since I plan to drive it often I wouldn't be opposed to either and my main concern ultimately would be vehicle condition. On a side note, I read that the manuals need a new clutch around 50-60k so I might have to do that if I go with the former, and the TipS's need a transmission flush every 12 years or so. It looks like the 1999 had regular oil changes and brake flushes @ 15 and 30k. The last major service on CarFax was at 15k as well. I like both generations, but my final decision would definitely be the one in better condition if there's a large difference between the two - will inquire more and see if I can get PPIs on both. Thanks for the info!

POST 4Original post

I like the early car in a like for like situation, iow all other things being equal... i would also be swayed by spec in either direction, Tippers are for the most part worth less, and are less desirable in a resale situation.. even if you don't care which you are precluding the buyer pool should you decide to swap to another year or model type... but the options label will help you see the original spec, you looking for options 408 light hollow spoke turbo wheels, 220?? for LSD, sport seats in either, some folks don't like PSM some do, for a potential track car people seem to like the early cars they are lighter, with LSD and no PSM, its all in preference but i would also be swayed by any other options like Aerokit is desirable to me...

POST 5Original post

Start with the one that has the most comprehensive service history. That can be difficult with the age of these cars since they may have passed through many owners, even with low miles. The reason is that things can go very wrong unexpectedly and these cars are expensive when things break. You really need a slush-fund for those moments. I strongly urge you to locate and reach out to your local Porsche Club . There should be people that can help you and they may even have a member that is looking to sell a car. You need to own a Porsche to join, but highly recommended when you do. The more cars you look at the better, too. Lastly, while this is a 911 forum, you might want to look at newer Boxsters and Caymans that fit your budget.

POST 6Original post

The 99 all day long, mainly because of the mileage. That�s low mileage and hard to beat. The manual is icing on the cake. A clutch can last 200,000 miles if it�s driven a certain way. My 99, when I got it 7 years ago had 48k miles. The clutch is still fine today at 71k miles.

POST 7Original post

Buy the one with the color you like / love. That is the first thing you see. As for the different features among the two, you will learn to live with whatever you bought. If your clutch last 200,000 miles, well you are not having any fun with the car. As for the tiptronic, flush it every 30,000 miles ... not 12 years.

POST 8Original post

Quotes source post: 19091755

Fair point, but, 100k is easily doable, even for the person who rev matches and performs expert heel/toe and spends time on the track. Most clutch wear comes from dumping at a standstill and slamming the gears on upshifts - either one is a no-no in a 911, generally speaking.

POST 9Original post

Build month and year on the �99? If earlier than 5/98 (earliest is 1/98), then absolutely the �99, hands down.

POST 10Original post

I'd be worried that the '99 hasn't been driven nearly enough? Low mileage isn't necessarily a good thing, the last low-mile 997 in our local group developed an RMS leak shortly after purchase. A car that's been regularly driven keeps all the fluids circulating and (theoretically) stays maintained on schedule.

POST 11Original post

Quotes source post: 19091936

7/98 is still considered early but who really knows.

POST 12Original post

Quotes source post: 19092408

cool, I just forget when the fire happened. Anything after that and the bores were sleeved differently.

POST 13Original post

The standard advice for decades: Buy the newest one in the best possible condition that you can afford. Make sure to budget about $5,000 for maintenance in the first year or two. So now the '99 is $41K and the '04 is $36K.

POST 14 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 19091625

Good to know, not eligible to be a member myself but Dad is so maybe I can go through him. Thanks as well to everyone for all the info. I got a reply back from the dealer saying the '99 is currently on track to be sold but if the deal falls or I find one better I'd contemplate that over the '04 TipS. I also agree with those who say I might need to just wait around and look at as many near me as I can find until the right one pops up. If anyone has any more info regarding 996 buying tips and info I should watch out for feel free to leave it here and I'll go through it all.

POST 15 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 19092478

In general, what does that $5k go towards for most 996s? Obviously every one is different, but what seems to be the most common issues for the first 2 years that I can look out for?

POST 16Original post

$5k - depends on if you are doing the work or having it done at a shop. I did new clutch, flywheel, RMS, LN IMS solution, UAOS, trans mount inserts and some other stuff for under $5K. Having it done at a dealer (independent or Porsche) would have been likely double that. -Tom

POST 17Original post

Quotes source post: 19092605

As for what to look out for, bore scoring is a top concern when buying.

POST 18Original post

Quotes source post: 19093064

which is why he should go pre 6/98

POST 19Original post

Quotes source post: 19092609

Or some specific examples in my case in about the first 3-4 years: one front wheel bearing, a couple of front control arms, one door lock replaced, one window regulator, the fuel filler neck had a leak, a new key fob because it came with only one key, four new tires, new shocks for the engine lid and frunk, transmission mount, two CV boots, new battery...... and some others........(but note I didn't list oil changes every 5K miles). Mine was a daily driver so I think we can see some "typical" repairs that could happen in any 20 year old car.

POST 20Original post

Quotes source post: 19092785

Would you trust a car that's got receipts for IMS/AOS/RMS done already, or would you just go back in and redo it the way you know how? A >$30k 996 Carrera most likely has these items on the sell sheet already, so it could save a bunch of engine-dropping labor.

POST 21Original post

$10k for engine refresh parts and service $10k for exhaust and suspension refresh $10k for interior, exterior and wheels refresh or enhancement $20-40k engine rebuild You can cut cost substantially by buying a car that has already performed many of these categories or DIY.

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