How much pressure required to thread in new tensioners?

Maybe I did not eat my Wheaties today but I am not able to get the new Bank1 tensioner threads close enough to screw in. Car is a 99 C2 - 5 chain. I have the the crank pinned at TDC, the Bank 1 cams locked using the short tool (near the exhaust). The new (two rings) tensioner is a few mm taller than my 20 year old one. After I insert the new tensioner into the engine, there is a good 10mm of gap between the threads and the case. Both the new and old tensioners are fairly hard to compress. I have primed the new tensioner in oil a couple times. In comparison the new IMS tensioner that will get installed next seems to have a softer spring and I can compress it with one hand. Should this be easy or is some level of effort/pushing required to compress the Bank 1 tensioner in place and engage the threads? Have I missed a step in the prep. that could be making the tensioner hard to install? I have the car on the ground so leverage is limited. In case it matters, I didn't drain the engine oil but caught about 5 litres after pulling the Bank 1 tensioner.

Quotes source post: 17379035

What socket are you using? Post a picture. You need a low profile socket that will allow you to press the head of the tensioner into the threaded area. Be careful to not cross-thread.

You need to press very hard and twist clockwise while you're pushing. Once you get that first thread on there it will hold but it takes quite a bit of muscle.

Thanks! Good tip. Definitely not a low profile socket. The tensioner drops into the socket so I was trying to get the threads started by hand alone. I'll see if I can find a low profile one or stack something inside the current one. New Bank 1 on left. Old Bank 1 in the middle. New IMS on the right. New Bank 1 on left. Old Bank 1 in the middle. New IMS on the right. I realize the new Bank 1 tensioner has a taller head.

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Thanks! I'll give it another go. I could try to lift the car up and get under the tensioner better.

Yea get that car higher. Its hard to do standing under the car pushing up.

Couple more things I thought of to confirm: 1) Does the scuffing/scratches on the old tensioner piston seem unusual or indicative of an issue? The car had a LN IMS retrofit a couple thousand miles ago under the PO, and I assume the shop found the tensioners in good shape to keep. 2) After I manage to install the Bank 1 tensioner can I proceed immediately to the IMS tensioner keeping the cam locking tool where it is on Bank 1 (near the exhaust)? Or is it better to remove the tool, check the timing after a couple engine rotations and reinstall the tool?

I saw some scuffing on mine when I changed them , I think it's just from increased movement of the piston as it loses pressure quicker and vibrates up and down until the pressure get it back up to pressure. To be honest I never used the cam tool with mine , I just locked the crank at TDC then did them one at a time, the chains are so tight anyway I can't see you dropping a tooth as long as you don't move the crank , I think it's higher risk on the three chain as the chains are longer and have more slop in them !

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Makes sense. I'll check the condition of the remaining two and post back. I'm trying to resolve a ticking/tapping noise only on startup that happens for a few seconds after the car sits for a few days. I've upgraded the oil pressure relief valve piston and spring with no change. I know I should have investigated the cats more thoroughly as a source of the sound, but still feel that new/upgraded tensioners after 20 years are worth doing.

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Have you inspected your Variocam wear pads?

stack some flat washers inside the socket so the tensioner doesn't fall into the socket.

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Not directly. Based on what I've gathered I would need to remove the valve covers to get a visual, specially on the inside one. I have checked my cam deviations with a Durametric (in range) and cut open the filter on each oil change which is every 6-12 months and less than 2k miles intervals. The car has about 47k miles. I have seen a handful on small light brown plastic bits in the filter. On the last change there were no bits, but more slivers/flakes as if a larger piece was crushed. Not seeing exactly how worn the variocam pads are does bug me. Is there a way to borescope these by pulling a spark plug tube etc?

In my limited experience if your deviations r over -4 u r gonna need pads soon. What does the durametric say. also my ims tensioner was 1/2" short so new tensioners will probably fix the rattle.

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I did this exact replacement in January. I'd get 1 sec of rattle after a day of sitting but about 3 sec of rattle if two or more days. The new tensioner is noticeably stiffer and it eliminated the rattle, hopefully you'll look forward to the same results. You said you primed it with oil? I did not do this and had no trouble reinstalling. I'd say try it without oil so you're just pushing against the spring.

Summing up my experience on this job. The is not a DIY, just some helpful tips I collected here and by doing this. - Obtain the correct cam locking tool based on your engine. Short plate for 5 chain, long one for 3 chain. 5 chain engine only has slot on the bottom cam. - Know the correct orientation of the cam slots at TDC. 360 degree engine rotation needed between Bank 1 and Bank 2 when moving over to other side. Rennlist has threads that cover this. - Buy fresh cam cover seals. The green plugs. And new aluminum washers for the tensioners. - Definitely do the research on the correct tensioner part numbers based on your engine type. Roller chain versus toothed. Numbers changed over the years. - Parts -55 or -56 (one with external spring) are designed only for the non-roller (hyvo) type chains - A shallow & thin 32mm socket will make life easier. For Bank 1 and IMS you can stack a socket inside a deep socket for screwing back in. Newer Bank 2 tensioners have a 8mm hex. This is for good reason because there is limited space to get a socket to fit on the old Bank 2 tensioner, even with the AC pulled out. I ended up machining a socket down to thin walls. - Definitely drain the engine oil! It will make the task more tolerable and you will not be battling with multiple liters of oil draining out and putting it back in later. - For the bottom Bank 1 tensioner make sure you have enough leverage and space to press in the tensioner while at the same time screwing it in. There is no grenade pin so you have to press the tension in yourself. Get the car high up enough to also turn the torque wrench on the IMS tensioner. EDIT: While the old IMS tensioner is out, it would be a good idea to visually verify that the IMS Tensioner Paddle plastic "button" which the tensioner presses against is still in place. If not the tension on the chain may be insufficient. - A boroscope will make locating the rear AC bolt easier. You can’t take too many blind goes before this head strips. Ensure the socket is lined up straight on the bolt head. Try a 1/4” extension & ratchet for better feel. The bolt is captive. - The engine temp sensor can be a bear to put back in. Make sure you don’t drop the rubber gasket under the intake when putting it back. - It may be a good idea to take cam deviation readings (on a hot engine) before and after this procedure. - Generally a good idea to mark the accessory belt orientation so it goes back in the same direction. Take the time to spin the pulleys to check for noises/issues.

really helpful tips. did ur cam deviation #s change much after this?

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After replacing all three tensioners, with a warm engine at 3k rpm I logged -1 and -2 deviation. My previous reading was sometime last year and I think it was about the same. I am a bit skeptical of these readings as I have no record of the cam pads being replaced and I find small bits of plastic bits and flakes in the filter. This 1999 car has 47k miles. Two years back the car did qualify for an LN IMS Retrofit so the readings must have been good. Still odd that the shop put back old tensioners that were clearly past their prime.

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Truth! I dropped mine. Ordered three more just in case.

Added an additional tip in post #15 to check the IMS tensioner paddle's plastic button is still present while the IMS tensioner is out. Watching a Rennvision video recently got me thinking about this as I still have a few seconds of rattle at startup.