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YOUR RESEARCHWatch Me Throw Parts at My Car
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Check off the list
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
It's done though and one more thing checked off the list.
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Suggestion · Original poster
The old ones had only 10,000 miles on them, but if I was lowering the engine to do the injectors, I might as well check the coil packs and replace the plugs.
Leading evidence: 'Check off the list' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check ignition coils' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I had noticed lower gas mileage after I replaced the cats last year (with 200 cels).
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Once they were back together I used my phone to ensure the injectors were seated.
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Suggestion · Original poster
The old ones had only 10,000 miles on them, but if I was lowering the engine to do the injectors, I might as well check the coil packs and replace the plugs.
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Check ignition coils
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Suggestion · Original poster
The old ones had only 10,000 miles on them, but if I was lowering the engine to do the injectors, I might as well check the coil packs and replace the plugs.
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Suggestion
I replaced the passenger side first and think I found that if I got the far ones (closest to the firewall) in and put the bolt in that holds the rail in place, I could start to center and seat the middle and so on.
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Suggestion · Original poster
The old ones had only 10,000 miles on them, but if I was lowering the engine to do the injectors, I might as well check the coil packs and replace the plugs.
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So...
My car is at 90000 miles. I decided to replace:
1. Pre-cat O2 sensors. I had noticed lower gas mileage after I replaced the cats last year (with 200 cels). I had to use a torch to get the pre-cat O2 sensors out. Durametric testing showed these sensors were not performing well.
2. Injectors. After the Flat6 video I was convinced this was a good preventative measure. I also noticed that the price of injectors went up after the Flat6 video, so I scored a set before they all shot up.
3. Spark plugs. The old ones had only 10,000 miles on them, but if I was lowering the engine to do the injectors, I might as well check the coil packs and replace the plugs.
The work...
The injectors are a chore, and lowering the engine by 40mm is a must. The old injectors were actually brittle, and I am probably lucky they hadn't started leaking. The first bank took much longer than the second. Once I had the idea of how the clips worked, and how to remove the old injectors I was set. Hint: a thin 13mm wrench will lever the injectors out of the rails like magic. Trying to pull them out by hand is a waste of your time. I also put them back in by inserting them into the rails and then then assembling the rails. Then I pushed the whole assembly into the block. Grease or some other lubricant is key here. I used white lithium, but I have been told that WD40 or assembly grease would work as well. There was not enough room to get the clips back on after putting the injectors in the block and trying to assemble the rails on top of them.
O2 sensors were a dream. Because they had only been in 1 season, they came out like butter.
Plugs were easy too. Lowering the engine meant I could get a long extension and universal joint directly into cylinder #4 (the hard one). I also acquired a ultra low profile ratcheting 5mm hex key (came as the assembly tool for a bed frame). It looks like:
This made removing the coil packs super easy, even on #4 and #1.
The Results...
The car started up fine (I put everything back together properly!) and test drive was good. A longer drive confirmed:
1. Idle is much smoother. My passenger seat would vibrate on idle. Now it is still.
2. Gas mileage is better. By at least 1 l/100 km or about 2 mpg.
3. Car is quieter at cruising RPM (3-4000)
4. But dyno says there is more power. Rolling on the throttle mid corner on the on ramp was actually a little scary this morning.
Of all the mods/updates/maintenance that I have done in the last 4 years, this set was the most pronounced. Couldn't be happier.
Nice work, thanks.
I too would like to do the injectors this fall (just broke 80k and smell fuel in oil...like since I got the car). I have read through the Pelican instructions, but don't find them clear enough to give me confidence.
When you say "lower engine by 40 mm", do you basically mean just lower it as far as you can by loosening the mounts/using a jack, or did you do anything different?
I have been working on cars as long as I can remember, but I still fall squarely in the "shadetree" category - brakes, plugs/coils, coolant tank, etc. are no problem for me but not sure about this - what do you think? What is your skill level?
Also, where did you get the injectors?
I was considering starting an injector thread looking for those that did it with engine in car.
Thanks in advance,
Majic
Thanks for sharing. I knew trying to swap injectors with the motor in would be a challenge and wish I did them when I had the motor out last year. Great tip about prying them out with a 13mm!
For anyone who regularly moves their O2 sensors between cats: a telescoping basin wrench works FANTASTICALLY for removing O2 sensors...far better than the slotted sockets sold for this purpose. If the sensor is good and stuck, the socket can deform and bugger up the sensor.
Once you get a solid purchase on the sensor with the basin wrench, it's coming out - just ensure you only apply torque to the areas meant for torquing on.
I did just that: Put a jack in and took the weight off the motor mounts. Undid the mounting bolts to the end. Put a single jackstand with 2x4 under the sump just in case. Lowered motor.
This is the first car that I have done more than oil changes. Now, in the Army I was in a tank crew, and did all sorts of maintenance, but not like this. I actually don't think this is that difficult from a skill perspective. The limiting factor is your hand dexterity (and size). If you make sure to move all the wires that sit on top of the fuel rails out of the way, the rails themselves will move quite a bit. The key for me was to stick my phone in, get a picture of what I wanted to work with, and then go by feel. Once your hand is in there, you can't see anything. I thought of using an endoscopic camera, but in the end it wasn't necessary.
Once you pull one rail out of the block, with the injectors attached, you can see the clips and electrical connections on the injector nearest you. Once you figure out how those come off, and get that first injector out, the other 5 are simple. I can't stress enough about the grease. You won't get it back together without lubricating the o-rings.
The big fail on this job is not seating the injectors and causing a fuel leak. Once they were back together I used my phone to ensure the injectors were seated. Even then, when I first started it up I had a fire extinguisher on hand.
Ebay:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/For-Porsche-...72.m2749.l2649
Glad you posted this tool. I hadn't seen it posted for plugs before. Just did my plugs a few weeks ago. I have a similar tool in my box which came in very handy. Only frustration with this tool is the head does not lock the bit. This means you have to be a bit careful when turning. If you apply any force toward the bit, the bit slides out the back and falls out of the tool. Easier to describe with a video then spelling it out.
I agree though, it made the #1 and #4 coil packs much easier to remove. Think I bought the tool at Lowe's several years ago. Another bonus is the bits aren't proprietary and it will work with any similar bit.
I just want to confirm before I do mine...You said "There was not enough room to get the clips back on after putting the injectors in the block and trying to assemble the rails on top of them". So, clips go on before the rails are reattached? I forgot how all (clips) this works.
So, the clips hold the injectors in the rails. I had to get the injectors in the rails first, then the clips, then push the whole assembly back into the block.
Like most things in life, using lots of lubrication made the whole thing go better. You won't even get the injectors in the rails without it.
I followed the good tips in the thread and decided to start w/ the 2nd bank first. I have the new injectors on the rail, clips holding injectors in, connectors clipped. and injectors just above the holes. Any tips or tricks on how to get the injectors pushed into the holes? I have applied white lithium grease, but wow it's hard to get a good angle to push them in.
I replaced the passenger side first and think I found that if I got the far ones (closest to the firewall) in and put the bolt in that holds the rail in place, I could start to center and seat the middle and so on. I also was using the snake cam to make sure they were seated. It took almost all day to get them replaced. It's done though and one more thing checked off the list.
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