Engine failures due to bore scoring.

I know I am putting a bullseye on my back. As FSI has stated bore scoring failures increased about 40 percent at least for him. I�m retired but I was in the motor oil world, and to give you a clue as jake says he has trained over 150 technicians. I have trained over easily 6 or 7,000 people in over 100 countries. You see that some people have high mileage cars and they don�t experience failures. I saw an original 99 with 222,000 miles and the engine code and records show that it was original. Anyway let�s start with this. 70 percent of the wear happens when you cold start or when you are at low rpms. If you follow Jake he says start the car and drive it right away, A lot of these cars are garage queens. So never do drive thru. You ever wondered why when they sell a car they say highway miles. Ln engineering IMS solution bearing that is forming a wedge, no surface to surface contact. Engine is same thing it has to get to a predetermined rpm , full film lubrication, no boundary lubrication. If you watch FSI you see that he says used Cummins oil while you wait to have engine rebuild. No brained there. That�s a Diesel engine oil that has high dispersants and detergents. Could use Delo 400, shell Rotella T. Anyway when you start your car you see higher RPm yes more fuel going to engine until Is warmed up. Some of it may actually pass piston rings and get into crankcase. That�s called fuel dilution. Guess why Porsche now came with their classic oils and viscosity on the 996 went to 10w50. Not 0w40. That�s why Jake tell you durametric fuel map. One final thing. In 1999 oils had a lot more sulphur and phosphorus, The best anti wear additive is ZDDP, because environmental bs anc because this could shorten the life of catalytic converters they have reduce sulphur phosphorus and zinc contains on fuel and motor oil . So a lot of people�s saw more failures. Anyway I�m talking to Exxon Mobil tomorrow to find out the ppm of sulphur phosphorus zinc on their European 0w40, if they don�t tell me I�m going to send a fresh new oil sample to a used oil lab for analysis. Anyway I would rather replace cats that an engine.

I would disagree with your premise of putting a bulls-eye on your back for this posting, but should, in fact, welcome some real in-depth discussions. I understand that changes came about in motor oils because of Phase III mandates from a government bureaucracy, and you are confirming that these wonderful ecologically concerns insist that zinc hurts the cats and has to be reduced and or eliminated. Most of us understand the concepts of basic tribology and the properties and the effects of additives, however, with reductions of ZDDP, the creation of condensing natural gas into poly-alpha-olefins, I haven’t read or seen information that defines the major differences of TBN between Phase III and older oils. Without wading too deep into politics, I sometimes wonder if some of this becomes an adjunct to push the concept and acceptance to eliminate the internal combustion engine and make it a pejorative. Perhaps this is why Porsche is working on synthetic fuels and consolidate its market share. It almost seems to me that by the elimination of these additives along with the hygroscopic fuels being mandated it has become a three-card monte to destroy the internals of these engines. So who really benefits?

Mobil one was cool, but I had to get to the third level like myself triboligist. Anyway zinc and phosphorus on their FF European 0w40 around 2100 ppm. Not to bad but not the best. Anyway we also need to consider TBN, total base number and depending on formulation that�s your dispersants and detergents. Anyway, if you Follow FSI the said you can nurse your engine by using Valvoline Cummins premium blue, Diesel engine oil, higher TBN than pass car oils. Mobil one European is great 12.56 average so no concern there. The Porsche classic oil is 10w50, so you are going to get more wear at startup and also you get a thicker oil film. This because of higher viscosity will result in additional friction, heat and all other stuff. Reduce horsepower. As an example NASCAR, qualifying oils, 0w, but then you drain the pan and refill with proper viscosity a lot of times 20w50. Anyway qualifying is 2 laps. And if you have ever seen it or watched it when they qualify you see the shut the engine right away. Then you got to worry about durability. If you recall there was a 600 mile race, 24 hour at Daytona, lemmams, Sebring etc, there you are concerned about durability.

I also follow Formula One racing and while they are still internal combustion engines, the piston only travels about 1.6 inches, slightly oval, and because of such high tolerances, they have to heat up the engine oil and water just to turn it over. I am quite sure that those engineers not only understand the viscosity of oils but have measured the temperature changes which changes the viscosity of the oil in a three-liter engine that makes over nine hundred horsepower at over eighteen thousand or more RPMs. They must use synthetic oils along with a lot of polymers. Now as I understand, polymers with a lot higher molecular weight improve the thickening properties, offer less resistance to mechanical shearing vs. polymers with lower molecular weights which offer more shear resistance, but generally do not increase viscosity at high temps. This seems to me to be quite a balancing act for oils used in Formula One and must be quite another to lubricate any modern automotive engine, especially our water-cooled aluminum Porsche engines used in the states.

You're inadvertently putting a bullseye on your back for not accounting for the differences in the materials used in the early cars' 3.4 litre engines and the later 3.6 litre engines which are the ones which are notorious for bore score. I'm not saying the oil isn't a factor, but the 3.6 engine is the one that is susceptible to bore score, not the 3.4 used in 1999 cars, so a 3.4 car's bores lasting 222,000 miles is no surprise. The crank bearings are probably toast by then though. Anyway, it's the coatings used on the pistons of the a few very late 3.4s and all the 3.6s that are responsible for the bore score problem, not what oil is used. The choice of oil will merely either delay or accelerate the bore score issue, depending on wise or poor choices in oil selection. Edit: Just to be clear; I'm not attempting to second guess a triboligist's grasp of oil, I'm saying the bore score issue isn't really oil based at all.

Looks like its time for part 11 of the Focus On: "Bore Scoring" Video series to chat about these points.

There are many reasons why I bought a 3.4. Anyway remember 20 to 22 percent of an engine oil is additives. All these mostly are polar compounds they are affine to metal, your phosphorus and zinc attached to metal at a high temperature the create sacrificial layers. So when you dry start you are not wearing 100 percent of metal or coating or plating etc. Anyway I have contacted Porsche USa asking specific tech questions about classic 10w50 . In my opinion what they have done is develop a cure bandaid type for a desease. I would have stuck with same lower visc. Anyway let�s say what they say. If no answer I am buying a quart and I am analyzing chemical composition on it. Remember Porsche doesn�t make motor oils someone is blending this for them.

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We've already done what you are planning. I did it when the Classic oil first came out, and we've done it a couple times since then. You'll be shocked when you receive the results, and then you'll probably be able to quickly notice what the oil is based on the composition. Next, you'll see that it doesn't test as a full 50 grade. From everything I have seen over the past two years, having several studies underway with customers who have suffered bore scoring, oil isn't making a difference at all in any of these cases. Changing the oil is the bigger concern, since that;'s the only thing that helps to rid the system of the harmful contaminants created by poor cylinder/ ring seal. Bore scoring kicked into high gear in January of 2019 and hasn't slowed down since. Two reports came in over the weekend, one more today. Tis' the season, and more will have the symptoms when they start to wake up after winter storage- they always do.

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Not mine...

can you tell me the level of zinc and phosphorus if this oil, saving me some money. If my engine fails I will live to have one of your engines. Now with chemistry I was able to run Mercedes 300sd to over 1,000,000 on original engine and 735 and 745 BMWs to over Half a million miles.

My local dealer. 5 liter 10w50 $85.97 plus tax. Don�t know about anyone else, I am buying Mobil one FF 0W40 at advance get my rewards plus canister filters and oil change special, 10 quarts $73.

while I was working abroad in Antofagasta 🇨🇱 Chile. We worked on developing pre lube in engines , some of them 2 million dollars. Jake idea is like old fuel injection turn the key and have inyectores squirt oil in surfaces. I�m retired and really don�t want to work anymore, fixing to smoke pork belly , turkey legs and pork chops. This could be a great addition to FSI innovations, on top of that do like Cummins, reservoir tank with additional oil, programmed it to burn as additive as get used up and inject new fresh oil into the sump. As I said I�m not working anymore just enjoying retirement,

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This is what I've gleaned from my readings before and after my purchase of an early 2000 3.4 late last year. My sill sticker shows 3/2000 and I had the dual row so the earlier my engine was built before this, the better. This ties in with Baz Harts research and comments on Lokasil v.1 vs v.2, that v.2 is worse and was cheaper to do (and about the same time the single row bearing was implemented), so Porsche was trying to save money. It's like they said lets go from a fine cylinder hone to a course one because it's cheaper, don't worry that it won't hold as much oil, any problems will occur after the warranty. I will note, however, that Boxster S engines do have the scoring issue, so none over 3.2L are immune. Considering the above I'm also not into the expensive boutique oils at $13/qt or more, (the Porsche Classic's, Driven's) more so the Porsche A40 approved oils that are still not near as expensive (long list at $7/lt). We all know oil is like a religion and there are the cult leaders and their followers. Source thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...1-engines.html

Mart�n thank you for telling me about the metallurgy difference, I was not aware of that. I�m still don�t know if I have the original engine. I�m planning to run this oil change short and when changing the oil at a friends shop get the engine number to see it at least it still is the original block. I am almost certain that the last couple that own the car tracked it. Anyway, somebody else was talking about polymers. Yes that�s how you make multigrade motor oils. The issue is shear, need to know the ssi of the oil and also if it it�s temporary shear or permanent shear. Under loads some pol�mers will shear temporarily and the return to size others will shear off. You play with the pol�mers to make the spec on the oil and also so that the oil functions as intended. As an example Diesel engine oils have normally a higher shear pol�mers. Diesel engines generate soot and as this goes into the engine oil the viscosity increases. To make sure the oil stays in grade the polymer is designed to shear over time.while I was working, now retired we would do 100,000 mile drain intervals with synthetic Diesel engine oil off courses a bunch of oil analysis.