56 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH996 Pas de deux
Leading reported evidence
Install clutch, flywheel, flywheel bearing, release bearing, rms and ims
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The shop installed a new clutch, flywheel, flywheel bearing, release bearing, RMS and IMS.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I'm not a Porsche Pro like you guys, but you can get a radiator leak tester for free at the auto parts store (loaner) and pump up the system to check for leaks.
Leading evidence: 'Install clutch, flywheel, flywheel bearing, release bearing, rms and ims' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check leaks' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Last owner did all scheduled maintenance, changed oil every 5k and took great care.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I drove car home from St Louis to Milwaukee and it ran like a champ.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
And I no longer use Bars Leak either - the pellets used by GM seem to do just as good a job without all the residue of Bars Leak.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Check leaks
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I'm not a Porsche Pro like you guys, but you can get a radiator leak tester for free at the auto parts store (loaner) and pump up the system to check for leaks.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Your AOS is not defective, and replacing the AOS does not guarantee that you won't destroy the AOS when you track the car anyway, so...why not use that $$ to fix the radiator leak properly?
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
56 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
Another rennlister mentioned he was able to hammer the aluminum flange holding the plastic cap to the radiator and this worked.
As of lately I have had a rather troubled introduction to 996 ownership as some of you may know. Purchased my first 996 MY99 C2 in Sept 14 and 6 months later tested out its crash worthiness on a highway wall. Fast forward a couple months and I have acquired a new to me MY03 C4S. Quite a step forward, but was it.
After the first test drive of the C4S I felt like I arrived. The mk2 fit and finish is a notable improvement over my 99. This one is swathed in supple leather, dark burwood, awd, a beautiful curvaceous *** ;P and awesome dark teal metallic. This car embodies what I was looking for in a 911, a freak on the track, but a lady on the streets.
So, this car has 52k miles on her. Last owner did all scheduled maintenance, changed oil every 5k and took great care. Besides a few blemishes, she's a beaut. PPI came back solid, but they missed one thing which left me scratching my head. I drove car home from St Louis to Milwaukee and it ran like a champ. When I got home I immediately noticed an odor of coolant. Checked filler tube, saw some water/oil intermix, coolant in tank was nice and orange with no cloudiness, but upon further inspection found coolant leaking out of the left front rad. Long story short, both sides leak and I need two new radiators. Note to prospective C4S buyers,these radiators cost double the radiator in the C2/C4 models.
So here's my plan of attack to make this bad boy bullet proof:
- Tuesday Mraz Auto is doing some preventative work to replace the IMS (LNE bearing), RMS and inspect/possibly change clutch. I get her back Thursday.
- Tuesday the other goodies show up. I'm replacing the water pump, thermostat/housing and the AOS. None of these items show signs of failure, but it's only a matter of time.
- I am also getting my Joe Gibbs erl on Tuesday for a change.
- Disconnect battery to clear passenger airbag warning light for a little while. Might pull LED on instrument panel.
- here's where I will get some flack....adding bars leaks for radiator leak. I just need to stop spending cash on the Porsche habit before my wife flips her lid. Them again SBUX splits this week and will get a little bump, so I may offload some shares too replace the rads.
Then 4/17 taking her out for a little SCCA Solo action.
Anything else you'd recommend?
There's enough room for both of us!
They said it would be a two day ordeal. Crossing my fingers clutch is solid and that the oil seeping was from RMS, not IMS.
Disconnecting the battery isn't going to clear your airbag light. Tried it the first time mine came on...no dice. Mine is actually back on right now and I have a Durametric on the way to clear it.
Yeah, they gave me the same time table when I stopped in last week. Hoping my slight oil leak after winter storage is just that. Glad to see you're back in the game, still think of your 99 every time I make that turn onto 43.
I would never put Bars Leak in my car.
Regarding clearing the code, get this:
Super Mini ELM327 V1.5 OBD2 OBD-II Bluetooth CAN-BUS Auto Diagnostic Tool for Windows XP, Vista, Win7, OSX and Android: Automotive Amazon.com: Super Mini ELM327 V1.5 OBD2 OBD-II Bluetooth CAN-BUS Auto Diagnostic Tool for Windows XP, Vista, Win7, OSX and Android: Automotive
It's less than $10 and works great! However you need a smart phone and thee $5 Android Torque Pro app.
Airbag light is on a separate system and the Torque app will not work. Only PIWIS, PST2, Duramteric, PIWIS Chinese clone knockoff will work.
Also personally, I would not chance the Bars Leak. Why not just remove them and pressure test them outside of the car and take them to any competent TIG welder to patch them up if it's a small hole in an accessible area? That would be the most economical and permanent fix without breaking the bank. Otherwise, I've seen some widebody rads on ebay for a decent amount in the past.
I wouldn't use Bars Leak on a Ford Tempo that I just needed to last until Friday, let alone a car I actually wanted to keep. The plan is to drop $3-5K on preventive maintenance on the oil side, but just dump some crap into the coolant on the water side (where you actually HAVE a problem)?
And you plan to take the car to the track with stop-leak being the only thing to keep both radiators from leaking, knowing that you're going to be pushing the water pressure higher than you would normally? I understand "cheap" better than most people, but I'm not certain that gooping up your coolant will qualify as bullet-proofing the car...
Your AOS is not defective, and replacing the AOS does not guarantee that you won't destroy the AOS when you track the car anyway, so...why not use that $$ to fix the radiator leak properly? Spending hundreds to fix something that ain't broke and ignoring something that IS broken (and that can cause you a headache with two digits before the comma if you don't notice that your stop-leak didn't work)...I do not get it.
Good luck with the repairs - and post up the condition of the old bearing you remove.
PS - since I'm obviously obtuse - how does pas de deux apply to this thread?
I wouldn't say I am rational all the time and knew I would get some **** for that comment.
I did do a leak test with fluorescent dye. The leak is coming from the top seam between the plastic tank and the radiator. So, as simple as brazing or TIG welding would be, I don't think that will do the trick here. What I will do per your suggestion now is remove the radiator and pressure test. Another rennlister mentioned he was able to hammer the aluminum flange holding the plastic cap to the radiator and this worked. I will take this approach and report back with my findings.
Any recommendations on a inexpensive pressure tester? I could pressurise my air compressor to 30psi and use that, but I don't feel confident its terribly accurate.
Oh great, now I can't afford the car! Oh my! Alright, got it on craigslist. #FML
I'm frugal and trust me, there's a huge difference my friend.
and GO BADGERS!!!!!
Missed 5CHN3LL's comment...."pas de deux" referring to the intricate relationship I have between myself and the 996. I've owned a lot of cars, albeit japanese AWD variants for years, but none of them keeps me on my toes like the 996. And no, not a ballerina.
Going to Mraz isn't exactly the frugal thing either. Just sayin' from experience...albeit about 10 years ago but my wallet got lighter walking out the door.
BTW.....it's crazy down here in Indy today. GO BUCKY!
They quoted me $1,600 for IMS, RMS and clutch inspection. Clutch feels fine, so I don't expect that to change. Looked at Kelly Moss in Madison, they quoted me $2,300. Both using the LNE IMS single row ceramic bearing.
Thought they were reasonable.
Heading to Madison tonight... Not as good as Indy though! We got this!
I'm prettier.
5CHN3LL, there is a lot of oil seaping around the bell housing. We know the story, likely rms, but could be IMS. IMS getting replaced for sure. I asked for pictures and a report once it's opened up before work commences.
Ah, got it. I wasn't sure you had evidence of a leak...if not, it would suck to join the list of people who traded old-and-not-leaking RMS for new-and-leaky.
Update...
Saw Agent Jesters non-leaking 996 ready to go while mine remains on the rack. New LN IMS installed, RMS was leaking and getting a new clutch disc/pressure plate/TO bearing installed. Flywheel has very light burning and no groves. Disc was just beginning to hit the rivets.
I inspected the old IMS bearing and all seals are intact and no signs of the forever grease leaking. The old bearing does have a little bit of play, but I'm not sure how much is normal.
They also recommended replacing the front differential bolts per a service bulletin. Does anyone have more details on this? He said new bolts were $70.
She should be ready tomorrow. So far Mike Mraz has been very accommodating. He also took a second to explain "d-chunking" and why it was a problem on the older style engines with the individual cylinder sleeves. Really impressed so far.
I'm not a Porsche Pro like you guys, but you can get a radiator leak tester for free at the auto parts store (loaner) and pump up the system to check for leaks. And I no longer use Bars Leak either - the pellets used by GM seem to do just as good a job without all the residue of Bars Leak. BTW, I understand the addition of these pellets is SOP at GM and many dealers after any water related repair.
So, my cars been in the shop since Tuesday. We have some serious storms yesterday and the shop lost power, so we lost the day. I got a call today with some bad news. The shop installed a new clutch, flywheel, flywheel bearing, release bearing, RMS and IMS. When they started the engine they heard a whirling noise and aren't sure if it's the IMS or the new flywheel bearing. I forget the term he used for the flywheel bearing....
In any case, they believe they may have a damaged bearing, either LN IMS or the flywheel bearing. So, the cars back up on the lift and disassembled. He overnighted a LN IMS bearing and he has the other bearing in stock.
The shop has done 75-80 of these LN IMS retrofits and never had a problem. What are the changes they got a bad IMS?
anyone else having issues with the Rennlist app? Haven't been able to keep up with this thread for the past couple of days.
Sorry to hear about the issues Pete, no wonder mine is taking so long! I too highly doubt it has anything to do with LN's parts, keep us posted on the diagnosis.
And Sneaky, curious as to your theory on lack of 996's in these parts?
I should rephrase that. I haven't lived in the MKE area since 2006. Grew up in Brookfield, lived in the Washington Heights and finally on a farm property about 35 minutes South of Road America. Back then the local PCA region group of drivers had 924's, 944's, 993s', 914's, 930's, 356's, 968's and 911's. I just don't remember a strong contingent of the 996 at any AutoX, DE or driving tour. But I guess things change in 9 years. The comment was meant more about the shop doing 75 to 80 of the retrofits and my past experience with said shops work. Has that shop been qualified to install the LN bearing?
Hope this turns out well.
Maybe not, but there are probably well over 80 996 and 986's combined in the milw/northern IL region. Surprisingly, there arent a ton of p-car shops that do ln bearings in chicago area, and prices vary a lot. Wouldnt be surprised if theyve done a lot of cars with IL plates....
If you are planning to autocross, and you are already working on the radiators, you should consider adding bracing to protect the radiators from cones. Our turbo front bumper makes the radiators susceptible to damage.
According to Flat6 the closest shop is in Ohio or Indiana. I used this shop based off of several good local and renn list references. So far I am impressed. Things go wrong and I would rather the shop error on the side of caution. The shop is doing three LN Bearings this week.
I really don't see a ton of Porsches around here. More Cayans and Boxters than 911's. Dare I say it I see more Panameras (Gremlins) too.
Just to clarify for slow peeps like me, you had a "new" thruster style bearing which was either defective or went bad somehow and replaced it with regular bearing? Which brands were both? Any pics? Any metal in the oil?
Now that yours finally cleared a spot for mine, just got the diagnosis. Found out I did have the dual row IMS which is good, however it's on back order and won't arrive until tomorrow. Also recommended replacing the RMS and clutch (was about to go) while they were in there. All told the damage will be around $3035. Also recommended replacing the valve cover gasket and spark plug tubes (? I think ?) which will be done in the coming month or so. Done by Friday hopefully.
Alright, car is back and everything is working fine. No kidding, not more than 2.5 miles from the shop I get mis-fires on cylinders 1-3 (P301, P302, P303, P300). According to service paperwork the coils and plugs were done at the 45k service which is 7k ago. Anything else to check? I'm thinking the coil packs were not replaced or they were damaged during the service. Problem is they are really not near the work that was done?
Bummer but cha ching for them. That area has nothing to do with that spot unless they were sticking a scope in the cylinders to take a peak or they inadvertently did something to a harness connection. If you can check and make sure the coil pack is plugged into the wire / plastic connection. Not saying they would do this to get a service call but crazier things have happened. But that was a similar scenario that I had when I lived there.
