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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHBroken bolt during header installation
Reported or suspected cause
bolt
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported cause · Original poster
Bingo, the culprit was the old bolt because I was short one new bolt.
Leading evidence: 'bolt' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'bolt' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Repair kit' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
drill bit work correctly if you use a center punch that fills the hole.You need this to insure the punch mark is centered.Try a suitable size nut as a centering spacer.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Initially I thought of using a drill bit and drilling into the stud to disintegrate it and just put a new one in, but I did not know what size I would use, nor if it was a good idea as I could possibly harm the threads in the head.
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Suggestion
drill bit work correctly if you use a center punch that fills the hole.You need this to insure the punch mark is centered.Try a suitable size nut as a centering spacer.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Initially I thought of using a drill bit and drilling into the stud to disintegrate it and just put a new one in, but I did not know what size I would use, nor if it was a good idea as I could possibly harm the threads in the head.
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Outcome without a verified action link
The extractor did not work, I am about to hit it with some penetrating oil and give it another shot
Hey all,
I was installing new headers on my C2 and when I was putting the 13mm bolts back in to secure the header I overtightened 2 of them and the bolt broke inside the head.
You can see the stud stuck in there, but theres obviously no way to get it out.
My question is, is that a dead space meaning just a slot solely for the bolt to secure the headers? Or is it an open slot where the exhaust flows.
How should I go about rectifying this and getting the 13mm bolt (now stud) out of there?
Initially I thought of using a drill bit and drilling into the stud to disintegrate it and just put a new one in, but I did not know what size I would use, nor if it was a good idea as I could possibly harm the threads in the head.
Let me know what you guys think.
Thanks a lot
That sucks. That happened to me on my Mercury outboard 2 years ago. Google is your friend. You can purchase a kit for $35 or so to drill it out and insert a held-coil that will solve your issue.
If you drill it carefully, you may be able to remove it with an "easy-out". If you can get it/them out cleanly you can avoid using a heli-coil...good luck
Thanks guys, yeah it wasn't good...tightened it way too much.
Do you guys know if those are dead holes? If they are I will have to grab an easy-out tap and drill type kit. But if they aren't dead I assume I can just drill them out the other side.
Thanks
+1
Assuming the bolts went in fine all the tension on them was relieved when they snapped. So a left hand drill bit and easy out may do the job. It's not the end of the world yet.
Just as long as the easy out doesn't snap.
Bingo, the culprit was the old bolt because I was short one new bolt.
Update: Now I need to use a tap and die as the bolt is stuck in good, however I don't know how to remove the bolt in order to get the plug tap in
Well you're going to need to drill out the old stud, or grind it out.
If you didn't break the easy out, throw it away and get a new one, and then see if heating up the head a little will expand things enough to get it to move.
How much of the bolt is exposed from the block? Remove the header and take a small chisel and a hammer. Create a notch on the apex of the bolt and keep hitting the above made notch till the bolt backs out. As a machinist and engineer I removed several hundred bolts this way.
dead hole that won't give any lead way to the extractor, only shards come through this
stuck in, but can grip with chisel/needle nose pliers, but it won't break even with spray
Thanks guys, yep.
Ihad this happen to me on my 944 motor once before, i took the head off, welded a nut to the top of where the stud was nice and hot, then hit it with an impact gun and broke it loose.
Gotta go to my old snap-on guy after work tomorrow and pick up a set of left hand drill bits
It helps making the L.H. drill bit work correctly if you use a center punch that fills the hole.You need this to insure the punch mark is centered.Try a suitable size nut as a centering spacer.
I have posted before about using s/s studs +nuts+loctite .You can buy a complete kit and never have this problem again.
I bought mine on EBay from "Jon's Auto Shack" perfect and inexpensive.
And if you are being extreme- Nord-Lock X washers like this:
http://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/m...-washer-video/
Why are the headers still on?
Another thing to try, if it's really flush, take a dremel or cutting tool and make a slot in the top and then take one of those manual impact hammer deals and try to back the bolt out.
A look at a cheap hand held impact driver - YouTube
Step 1: remove header please!!!
If you just snapped the head of the bolt off and didn't cross thread it then taking the manifold off should expose a bit of the broken bolt grip with vise grips and back the bolt out.. I see you have drilled off center so I'd stop drilling... Do you think you cross threaded it that changes the game completely if not get a left handed drill bit or tap and with vise grips jam it up there and start turning it out... If it's cross threaded then the can of beans is spilled..
Well not to mention anything that would extract it works easier when the hole is more centered.
Could be time for a diegrinder and burr. Just have to be extra careful...
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