Upper Chain Tensioner Bolt Issue

So I�ve got eyes on the bolt at the rear of the AC compressor via my wireless scope, but I can�t for the life of me get a socket on it. I�ve got the engine temp sensor out of the way but there appears to be a hardline right in the way right above the bolt. Using a wobble extension doesn�t give me enough movement and a universal joint is useless. How are others getting around this hardline? Here are two pics from my scope looking down from the area where the engine temp sensor sits. You can see the hardline in the lower left corner of the pics.

This job is easier and probably quicker if you remove the throttle body and plenum. That works well for me. Also use a quarter inch extension which should clear that tube that's just above bolt. I'm thinking this doesn't involve the chain tensioner? I'm fairly sure you are talking about the A/C compressor bolt.

Quotes source post: 16613614

Yeah I wasn�t quite clear in my thread title. I�ve got to loosen this bolt in order to free up the AC unit so it can slide out of the way. Once done, I�ll have easy access to the upper chain tensioner.

I remember wobble extension worked for me.

I have had mine out many time and never had to use a wobble, just a socket with a 6" extension. Once you have dome it once it becomes easy.

Quotes source post: 16614845

I am struggling to comprehend how that is possible with that hardline immediately above the bolt. Maybe certain 996�s don�t have a hardline in that same spot as my late �98 build car?

Try a crows foot.. Worked for me.

Not sure what the hard line would be at that location? My car has the fuel cooler on the AC Compressor which is not that common but hose lines should not be in the way.

Finally got her with the aid of the crows foot to get the bolt broke loose. Once that was done the wobble extension and socket was enough to get her off. The hardline that was in the way is an AC line. Facing the engine at the rear of the car, it passes over the compressor at the 1 o�clock position, runs to the back side of the compressor, then turns left and enters the backside of the compressor at the 11 o�clock position.

Here's a few key points and pics to assist with removing the upper tensioner. Additionally, I highly recommend using this short 32mm oil filter socket to remove all of the tensioners. You'll need it's short height to remove the old hex head upper tensioner. And you'll want it's short height to install the lower tensioner and the IMS tensioner (due to the internal spring tension of the tensioners). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009OMYAQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009OMYAQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Rotate the engine clockwise (while facing the engine) to get it to TDC as shown here. Use a 24mm socket and breaker bar to easily do this. After this I removed the serpentine belt using the same 24mm socket and breaker bar on the idler tensioner directly above the crank pulley. I removed this bolt in order to get some movement from the jump post assembly to allow for more clearance..... ....And I removed this lower nut. The hardline with green tape caused me a fair amount of aggravation. It sits immediately above the rear AC bolt and prevented me from using a wobble extension to get my socket seated to break the bolt free. Success came from using a 13mm crows foot attached to a wobble extension. Once the bolt broke loose, I then used the socket and wobble extension to fully loosen the bolt. This is a pic of the boss that the rear AC bolt goes into. This L-shaped protective plastic tray was a constant headache. I don't know if all versions of the M96 have this but my 1999 did (September '98 build). Additionally, the heads on the two plastic zip ties on this tray also got in the way. I had to eventually rotate the rear one upwards in order to allow the AC compressor to slide forward. You can see the new tensioner installed in the bottom center of the pic. Again, this L-shaped tray was in the way for removing the tensioner. I had to use a wobble extension to get around it. Be careful with this radiator hose as the AC compressor will push and rub on it as you work to slide it forward. I placed a thin shop towel over the hose to protect it during both disassembly and reassembly. I used a a 12" long twistie-tie to wrap around the head of the rear AC bolt. This kept it up and out of the way as I worked to get the compressor slid back into position. Once the compressor was back in position, I simply pulled out the twistie-tie and the bolt dropped into place.