32 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHDamaged (KINKED) Refrigerant line intake pipe
Reported or suspected cause
refrigerant
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause
There are other threads on RL with folks who have had a green leak that turned out to be refrigerant - but it was green because dye had been added in the past, presumably to find a leak.
Leading evidence: 'refrigerant' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'refrigerant' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Repair damaged areas' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
Brake lines function fine with sections spliced in to repair damaged areas.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
Where is the pipe located and what are they planning to replace for $1500?
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
The lines are in sections when you decide to replace the damaged part.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion · Original poster
Is there any way to repair this line, as opposed to change the entire line?
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
refrigerant
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause
There are other threads on RL with folks who have had a green leak that turned out to be refrigerant - but it was green because dye had been added in the past, presumably to find a leak.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
32 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261027T022239Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Happy new year all!
I started the new year in a bad foot! I accidently kinked and punctured my 996's refrigerant line intake pipe (see pix).
Is there any way to repair this line, as opposed to change the entire line? Does anyone know what the magnitude of pressure in this pipe is? In other words
, can one cut the 2 inch section and graft something in there?
Your input i much appreciated.
Cheers,
Zack
Was it a floor jack incident? That's a low pressure line and if the AC still works fine I don't think I would change it. I doubt you need AC near as much like we do down south.
The pressure is probably in the 40 to 50 PSI while AC is running and no more than 100 PSI when off and equalized.
The lines are in sections when you decide to replace the damaged part.
Yes KrazyK; it was a jack accident. It was punctured and the gas leaked out. Although I live in Canada, the AC is badly needed in cold weather, as it is sometimes used to evacuate the moisture in air.
Unfortunately, it is very difficult to find a used one in this neck of the woods; that is why I wanted to see whether I could repair it by removing the 1 inch damaged zone.
Thank you for your input any way.
PS. BTW, I believe pipe No. 10 in the drawing is the low pressure one; my damaged pipe is No.6 in the photo; are you sure it is the low pressure line?
Cheers,
Zack
Here is the diagram with part numbers and cost. Although that looks like a real PITA to replace, I would order a replacement line and install. In the long run it will be better.
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=813-25
My A/C remains fully disabled(***) during the colder months, only enabled for actual cooling needs..
Always use "FRESH" airflow mode and defog or keep the windshield defogged using HEAT, unlike A/C, "works every time"
***: Manually operated SPST switch back wall of glove box opens the compressor clutch circuit.
You don't need AC to defrost it only speeds it up. Why not look on the net for a good used one or call some socialist junk yards. If you cut the piece out, it would need to be welded in and I'm not so sure welding a pressure pipe that thin is possible. It will be cheaper to find a good used one. Whale Tail Porsche Parts is only 20 from me and they specialize is taking apart Porsches only. Call Randy and see if he has the part. I think he might.
A polite note, if I may.
"Defrost" generally applies only to frozen moisture on the exterior of the windshield.
Defog/demist applies to condensate on the interior surface wherein climatic conditions will determine the success of the A/C to defog/demist the interior surface.
"...AC only speeds up defogging...."
No, with an OAT below 35dF AC is completely and TOTALLY non-functional for defogging the interior glass surfaces. Generally speaking AC is rarely viable for defogging at temperatures below 50dF.
"..only a bit slower..."
If the outside atmosphere's Rh is high enough that an AC evaporator at ~34dF can quickly bring it to dewpoint, then yes. But that is a rare situation indeed in "our" northern climate.
The BEST procedure to remove interior windshield fogging most quickly and for certain is FRESH airflow intake, defog/demist mode, MAXIMUM blower speed and cabin temperature setting.
If the AC can be used in addition, fine.
When the temperature is high enough for the AC to stay on, it makes is absulotely faster to defog than just regular outside air. AC dries the air out so when it hits the glass, it can absorb the moisture a lot faster than untreated outside air.
Once again a 996 thread digresses into useless drivel about nonsense that in no way helps the OP.
To the OP, you have the diagram, the part #'s and costs. As stated before, it is indeed the low pressure line AKA as the suction line. Replace it, evacuate system, re-charge, done.
If your not familiar with AC work, yes, it will be expensive.
Wait, I thought that was your favorite kind of thread? That's exactly how most threads go once you join in.
OP, I have seen (on other vehicles) flare/compression fittings used to replace a bad section of a/c line. Since this is the low-pressure side, this might be an option if you can't source a used line.
I'm trying to be nicer this year. Your already making it harder to be.
If your only interested in used lines, you can buy them or anything else from these guys. I've never paid asking price for their used parts and they ship really fast. Very easy to deal with and I'm sure they would ship to Canada if you asked them.
http://stores.ebay.com/Quality-Porsc..._sid=853166208
"just started" "stone cold" Extremely rare, possibly non-existent, situation for windshield fogging, did you actually mean to say "Defrosting"..??
Otherwise...:
Only if the Rh is high enough(***) that airborne moisture condenses onto the ~34dF evaporator vanes, thus providing DRY(ed) airflow into the cabin, windshield ducts.
***: Rare event with OAT below 50dF...
Climb into a cold car with a hot, wet dog.
OP, any further decisions on how to fix your issue?
I knew that we (RLers) were willing to argue over just about anything, but this may be a new low.
Just getting in a cold car and breathing, fogs up the windshield almost instantly even if the temps are above freezing. Maybe one needs to live up here for a bit to understand this.
No problem, bruh! For future reference, you need a really good 996 forum filter program to sort through all the nonsense to actually find what your looking for. One of the most popular filters excludes any post with the characters "k" or "krazy". You got very lucky finding your answer(s).
Welcome back
Oh BTW: I have a leaking A/C pipe - leaking flourescent green fluid all over the garage floor. Cost to replace with parts and labor : $1,500.
Oh well.
I did the same damage in the same location, I cut out 6 inches of flattened burst aluminium pipe and replaced it with clear braided plastic hose, epoxy resin on both ends of the metal tube and two jubilee clips, 24 hrs to dry and pressurised it the following day, 12 months on and it's still holding pressure, the low pressure side of the system only holds about 35 psi.
That's anti-freeze!
No such thing as "liquid" refrigerant at atmospheric pressure.
A/C leakage detection fluid, maybe... "all over the garage floor" Then again, I guess not.
There are other threads on RL with folks who have had a green leak that turned out to be refrigerant - but it was green because dye had been added in the past, presumably to find a leak. It also seems that at least some of the refrigerant-in-a-can refill kits include the dye to help identify leaks.
It's not that much of a stretch that a decent number of our 10-15 year old cars have had AC diagnostic work or DIY refills...could be that Roadsession just left that part out of his post...
Why not splice in a section as OP proposes initially? Brake lines function fine with sections spliced in to repair damaged areas. Brake lines have way higher PSI - typically around 1,000 PSI.
Ooh, I've got one. Try putting 6 steaming hot carry out pizzas in the front seat of a Countach replica with no functioning defroster vents on a crisp fall evening. About the time you pull out of the parking lot into traffic, the windshield goes completely and absolutely opaque. Solution - hit the door poppers and up go the scissor doors. That car was a death trap in sooo many different ways.