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YOUR RESEARCHLet's talk clutch...
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Install 6 miles and removed
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Leading evidence: 'Install 6 miles and removed' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Install 6 miles and removed' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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when I had mine done they used the Sachs kit, which is clutch disc, pressure plate, and bearing.
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Suggestion
The wear surface on a 911 flywheel is very durable more so than most rotors but if the disc has worn to the rivets then the flywheel is done Porsche doesn,t recommend resurfacing them anymore either.
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Suggestion
If the clutch is not slipping get the you might be OK with just a disk change but might as well replace the release bearing too (by the way a 97 Audi A4 bearing is the same as the 996, that's what I used).
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Suggestion
I always replace or resurface the flywheel when replacing a clutch.
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Suggestion
The wear surface on a 911 flywheel is very durable more so than most rotors but if the disc has worn to the rivets then the flywheel is done Porsche doesn,t recommend resurfacing them anymore either.
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Suggestion
If the clutch is not slipping get the you might be OK with just a disk change but might as well replace the release bearing too (by the way a 97 Audi A4 bearing is the same as the 996, that's what I used).
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Suggestion
If the clutch is not slipping get the you might be OK with just a disk change but might as well replace the release bearing too (by the way a 97 Audi A4 bearing is the same as the 996, that's what I used).
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I am preparing to do the clutch and transmission mount at the same time.
Do I need to do the pressure plate and flywheel too? Or can I just do the clutch disk?
Conventional wisdom says buy all 3 pieces at the same time A disc alone will cost about $2-300 The whole kit is about $500.I have seen the 3 piece kit as low as $295 on ebay for my Boxster S .The kit gives you a new throwout bearing and a fresh pressure plate . I would reuse the flywheel if it passes inspection .There is a test for the function of the dual mass.
+1 ... when I had mine done they used the Sachs kit, which is clutch disc, pressure plate, and bearing. The flywheel is another $800 - $1000, so reuse it if possible (mine was shot).
I just did mine with the Sachs kit (throw out bearing, disk and pressure plate). The fly wheel on mine was good, the mechanic sent it for machining.
I only had 65k kms though. I had life on my clutch but the pressure plate was warped. Well the "fingers" holding it to the shaft were bent and it sat uneven.
It feels like a new car!
Clutch disk and throw out bearing at minimum IMO, the pressure plate may reusable depending on condition
I think they recommend to change all three items for non DIY'ers because you might as well if you're paying someone to drop your transmission. If you're doing it yourself you can replace as required!
The flywheel is a multi piece unit with springs or rubber or both inside . It has a vibration absorbing function which wears out. I believe you test it by rotating the surface about 10 deg.with a screwdriver or something. When released it should spring back to where it started on its own. The newer one are longer lasting than they used to be and a bit cheaper. LUK is the manufacturer and they show up on ebay new about $500 now. After 100000 mi 50/50 they are worn out.
^^^ Not only this, but the flywheel face where the clutch disk contacts it wears out. Think of it like your brake pads and rotors. The pads ride against the rotors to provide stopping friction. Eventually the pads wear out first and you replace them, but after so many miles, the rotors need to be replaced as well due to wear.
The wear surface on a 911 flywheel is very durable more so than most rotors but if the disc has worn to the rivets then the flywheel is done Porsche doesn,t recommend resurfacing them anymore either.
These items are included in our Mega Clutch Package. Even if you only do a standard clutch package of disc, pressure plate and release bearing, you'd probably be wise to add some of these items:
◦Pressure Plate
◦Clutch Disc
◦Release Bearing
◦Pressure Plate Bolts
◦Release Bearing Guide Tube
◦Flywheel
◦Crankshaft - Flywheel Seal
◦Flywheel Bolts
◦Clutch Release Lever & Hardware
◦Main Shaft Seal
The only way to know for sure is to take it apart and then see what needs replacing. If the clutch is not slipping get the you might be OK with just a disk change but might as well replace the release bearing too (by the way a 97 Audi A4 bearing is the same as the 996, that's what I used).
If you imagine the clutch the same way as brakes (disk being the pads and the pressure plate and flywheel the rotor) then the friction surfaces wear exactly the same way. That's why try staying away from downshifting during deceleration. You don't want t use the clutch disk as a brake as it's a lot more expensive to change than the brakes.
I always replace or resurface the flywheel when replacing a clutch.
Clutch components wear in together hence why clutches have a break in procedure. There is a lot more to replacing the flywheel besides the mass absorption system. A new clutch disc requires a specific surface quality (surface irregularity) to wear in properly.
This is why on a normal (non dual mass) you would resurface the flywheel. Resurfacing helps prevent clutch chatter (judder) and glazing of a new disc which can cause slipping and premature wear.
Rule #1: Do it cheap, do it twice.
Not pointing at anyone, but driving technique with regards to shifting will make a clutch last longer or die an early death. Clutches should be in or out. The pressure equalizer spring on the clutch pedal makes this a challenge. ( I got rid of mine) wife says it is much nicer to drive now.
To the OP may want to bleed the clutch and see if it disengages a bit further from the floor board.
