DIY 996: Clutch, Flywheel, IMS/RMS

Hi All, I�m a newbie with big plans, at least for me, for my recently acquired 90k �00 996.1 C2. With the clutch needing replacement, I�m planning on replacing the clutch, flywheel, IMS, RMS and appreciate any comments on any section below: WORK/PARTS� I plan to DIY (part of w hy I bought the car) and use Pelican �super kit� as a starting point for the parts list. I�m aggregating my workflow from Pelican tech articles, Bentley service manual and tips here. Speaking of Pelican, they seem slightly more expensive (vs. Autohaus, Vertex, PartsGeek) but they seem to have good guidance and customer service. Will try to see if they will do some degree of price match. They also appear to be selling the LN IMS kit at a discounted price, but with LN offering free tool rental for both IMS/RMS, will likely go through LN. Am I missing anything? IMS/RMS� When buying the car, oil tests came back w/ no sign of issues, and no leaks, sounds, etc. anywhere. However, for peace of mind and the cost effectiveness of doing work myself, I feel it�s a no-brainer to get these done. I�ve read that the �00�s could have either the double or single row, so I'm planning on ordering both (retrofits) from LN to avoid delays, and returning the one I don�t need. After reading some posts, I�m having doubts about whether it�s worth replacing the double-row (because of its sturdiness) and whether to do the retrofit or solution kit. For now, just planning to move ahead as doing nothing might be worse. Also learning that LN will not warranty DIY installations, but based on what I�m reading about their quality, likely nothing to worry about. Thoughts? OTHER WORK� I don�t know if the water pump or AOS were ever done. Not sure how I could assess or when would be the best time to do these or other items. For now, I only plan to drop the transmission, but curious if there are any recommendations on anything else to do at 90k while I�m dropping the transmission? On background, this will be a weekend car with the occasional road trip. Thanks, in advance, for patience with the newbie!

Definitely change out the IMS bearing, even if it's the double row, as it's a wear item and at 90k miles is due and you'll have easy access by virtue of the other work you're doing. Also, definitely do the AOS and Water Pump/Thermostat if for no other reason than to establish a maintenance baseline of when these and other major components were serviced. Lastly, consider doing the Coolant Reservoir Tank as they develop hairline cracks and leak, and if undetected, cause overheating and cracked heads. Personally, I keep a small notepad for each of my vehicles where I document, including date and mileage, everything I do to each. Keeps me straight on what's going on, and it's a plus come sale time for the new owner to see this type of documentation. It's all doable if you take your time and work methodically, and when you're done, you'll have the satisfaction of knowing you did it yourself and maybe even saved some $$$! Best of luck.

I just finished yesterday installing the LN Solution, RMS, flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate and throw-out bearing. I am the original owner of a 03 996 with 31K on the clock. I was able to acquire the LN Solution for $1519 and new Porsche brand RMS seal for $30 because of Black Friday sale plus free tool rental from LN including RMS installation tool. Purchased a new flywheel and clutch kit for $900 at Rock Auto. New flywheel, pressure plate bolts and transmission cable retainers from Auto Atlanta for $40. I also purchased a transmission jack and heavy duty circlip tool from Amazon for $210. 10 quarts of Mobil oil for $45 from Walmart. All-in parts total was $2744. I shopped around for an independent shop to do the work and was quoted $5500-$7000. I could of reused my clutch and flywheel because it had very little wear but my car is 19 years old. I had some issues with the Solution installation because the cam lock tool didn’t fit correctly and I had to modify it. Also when trying to torque the bearing stud nut it wouldn’t grab and just spun, so I used an air impact wrench to get it started. That caused a lot of frustration because no mention of this issue in the installation instructions. Also, you do not have to remove the chain tensioner under the AC compressor. You only have to remove it if the IMS doesn’t align with the case bore. Also, my old IMSB had no grease in it, as the two bearing seals shrunk and allowed oil in. I could hear some friction, so the bearing would have eventually failed.

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I did this exact job a year ago and had no real challenges, except maybe that top bolt on the trans . it felt good to DIY. Here's a few low cost things not to overlook: check the oil cooler for leaks and change the o-rings for about $5. Mine had slight seepage. There is a service bulletin to update the clutch fork & pivot ball to the 997 version, cost about $120. The shifter cable clips break easily when removed, it's easy to drill the brackets for safety wire when the trans is out. Also, read RL posts on slave cylinder installation and bleeding difficulties.

Thanks for the tip on RockAuto tip... just ordered the flywheel and clutch kit for the same price w/ tax! Was the circlip tool for the retainers? I hope I don't have any issues w/ IMS install.

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Thanks for tip on service bulletin for upgraded fork and ball... I noticed that some parts places actually automatically recommend it, but nice to refer to service bulletin.

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There is one approximately 50 mm circlip that retains the IMSB. It took trying 3 different circlip pliers to remove before I found one heavy duty enough to do the job. You have to be extremely careful when removing and installing because the circlip could fall inside the crankcase. I got these from Amazon, a little pricey, but they work and hold the circlip by ratcheting and locking the circlip. Amazon Amazon

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an original dual row if that�s what you have will not have a circlip. It has an internal snap ring that takes a little more force to extract. The replacement LN comes with a spirolock that doesn�t need a tool to install.

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Right! I forgot he has a dual-row IMSB. Single row has the 50 mm circlip.

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I did a similar service to my wife's '00 996 a few years back but dropped the motor also to do the chain pads as was starting to see some amber colored plastic bits in the oil filter. At that time, the clutch kit from Design911 in the UK was the best price even with shipping factored in. Below are the parts replaced, her car also had ~ 90K on it.

Thanks for all the tips. I have ordered everything I need and planning to do the job next week. I've been doubling back over all the steps and noticed in the Bentley Manual to torque flywheel bolts and then another 90 degrees, but all the other guidance I'm seeing says 120 degrees. Is it that the Bentley Service manual only contains the original Porsche specs without updates? Print date on the one I have is 2012, and seems odd that something like this wouldn't have been updated within 13 years. Other than the clutch fork and pivot ball update referenced earlier, any other things of note? PS: As a newbie, I entered the "quicksand trap" of the oil threads and had a difficult time getting myself out of them :-)

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The flywheel wheel bolts are torqued to 19 ft lbs, then an additional 120 degrees. (Tip) Since the flywheel bolts are 6 point torx, here is what I did after torquing to 19 ft lbs. there are 6 points on each bolt. So each point is 60 degrees. Mark one of the points on the bolt with a marker, then mark on the flywheel 2 points away. That will give you 120 degrees when the mark on the bolt aligns with the mark on the flywheel. You will need a long 1/2 breaker bar. I used a 3/4 breaker bar. Porsche changed the torque specifications from 90 to 120 degrees years ago. Also, do not use loctite on the flywheel bolts, but use it on the pressure plate bolts.

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Thanks for breaker bar recommendation. Read about not using loctite on flywheel (although also saw other recommending it which seemed odd to me). Which loctite did you use on pressure plate?

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Blue

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Can you post more info on the service bulletin (link) or part #'s used for the clutch fork and pivot? I may do this while I'm in there (clutch, IMS, RMS job upcoming) Thanks, Greg

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Here's the TSB with parts list (at that time of printing). I didn't have a noisy clutch but the cost to upgrade was relatively low.

I appreciate you've ordered the parts, but replacing the very reliable dual row bearing with the LN bearing which in the UK is known to have failed in service is the very opposite of insurance against failure. The recommended action by Hartech, Europe's foremost 996 engine builder, is to lock the cams/chains, remove the IMS cover, and then flip off the oil cover on the rear of the bearing to allow engine oil to find its way out of the bearing, taking and particles with it that might precipitate wear. Replacing all IMS bearings regardless of type is something of a religion on Rennlist, but it's not appropriate in every case, and really only appropriate on a later single row bearing engine or a dual row one with significant play. The failure rate of single row bearings is unacceptably high, hence the need to change them. The failure rate of dual row bearings is in the region of 1%. I have a dual row bearing engine with 140,000 miles on it and no play at the IMS end of the shaft. I'm sure the faithful will pipe up and say 'that's a sample of one, it means nothing' but if you do the research the information is out there. You can find out more by googling for posts by Baz Hart of Hartech.

Hartech's strategy works great if it gets done pro-actively, if the car was driven long enough to get erosion of the bearing surfaces going it will eventually fail. Service consistency plays big in to the end result of course. How many LN bearings failed in the EU? I doubt anybody knows. 1? 100? I also don't think anybody has the total numbers on the percent of Double row bearings that have failed.. We don't know how many Porsche has changed, the cars are getting older so the fail curve will move, I have a 03 that had to get rebuilt, its got a LN in it. Whether it lasts forever or 5500 miles is yet to be seen But my single car isn't statistically significant..

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I think Hartech only recommends the oil seal removed and nothing else on the Large Single Row (6305) bearing that cannot be removed without splitting the cases/ engine disassembly. I still find it amazing that people are OK with a 1% failure rate on such an important part. !!! I was the Top Troubleshooter for FoMoCo for two decades,and the large Dealership I worked for sold over 300 cars a month. A 1% failure rate would be HUGE . There were some parts that had failure rates that were that bad, namely TP Sensors, ICS Controls, MAP sensors, but these were easy and not that expensive to replace. By the late 90's FoMoCo and GM had adopted the SIX Sigma Process that meant only 3.4 per Million parts defective. That was a HUGE quality improvement. A 1% ( one in a hundred) failure rate on an IMSB is unacceptable to me when a 0.00034% (3.4 per million) is the norm...

I don't see any reason why an LN ceramic bearing would fail at a higher rate than a stock OEM bearing with the seal/cover removed? The ceramic bearing should be superior due to the hardness of the silicon nitride ***** being more resistant to physical damage and chemical damage from potential acidity in oil (probably only with long oil change intervals). I swapped my OEM dual row bearing with 102k on it for an LN and expect it to last until the engine is kaput

LN themselves state that their bearing is a service part with a limited life. If you're going to run yours until the engine is kaput rather than swap it out at LN's specified intervals then it'll probably be the LN bearing that kills it.

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Using the referenced TSB, here are the respective part numbers when ordering from Pelican Parts... 9P1-141-181-OEM Throw Out Bearing Guide Tube (not required as part of this TSB, but replacing as part of my refresh) 997-116-712-01-M100 Clutch Release Lever (the TSB shows 996, but updated part begins with 997) 996-116-716-02-M100 Clutch Release Lever Ball Pin 9P1-141-164-M100 Clutch Release Lever Retaining Spring 9P1-141-143-OEM Clutch Release Lever Sealing Washer

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Thanks alot for the above info, helps alot! Greg

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I respect your opinion. Actually, the prior two owners had effectively followed your advice. To some extent, I speculate their decision and/or confidence in their decision had in great part to do with being experienced DIYers / P-car enthusiasts who knew they were likely dealing with the more robust dual row IMSB. Having neither the P-car experience nor mechanical confidence to anticipate or actively troubleshoot my new ride, I view it as an investment in my P-car DIY development and as an insurance policy, albeit with a life limit as I opted for the 6-year / 75k LN option. If I were to pay for someone to do the work, I might have opted to continue with the regimen the prior owner followed... regular oil system checks, oil analysis, etc. I look forward to posting my reflections when having to replace it... should I be so fortunate to still have the car.

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Yes, following the update on clutch for & pivot ball for 997. Regarding oil cooler (for engine oil I presume), I'm fortunately not dealing with any leaks at this time, and this would only be easy if dropping the engine or going in at time of AOS replacement, correct? For now, just looking for the things worthwhile doing with transmission out and underneath the car. I'll likely tack AOS (and reading all the various threads on it) at a later date.

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No, the oil cooler is easy to do with just the trans out. It's 4 10mm bolts. No room to swing a torque wrench though, a 1/4" stubby works best. The Mk1 version (yours) of the AOS is fairly easy to change out also if you can work by braille. I did the work lifted on 22" stands with the engine dropped to the bottom of the rear mounts and the flywheel side of the engine supported as low as it would go. From the difficulites I've read on RL I almost think it's easier to just drop the trans to replace the AOS anyway.

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Do you recall which grease you used in the various points of contact (lever, tube, spline, etc.)? The TSB makes reference to Optimal MPO and Olista Longtime 3EP, while Pelican Parts instructions reference White Lithium Grease. Recommendations?

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I used the Porsche �sticky grease.� I don�t have the part number handy at the moment though.

Anyone know the torque value for the two rear cross member bolts removed when removing the transmission? Picture below... I believe they are 15mm bolts. Pelican Parts Instructions

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Pelican does not have the lever ball pin (996 version) they have the 997 version, but it looks shorter. So, my question is, do you need the 996 or 997 version, I can find the 996 version on ebay and a few other sites, but Pelican says NLA. TIA, Greg

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Porsche had superseded the parts and therefore the 997 numbers would be what you use. Simply take the numbers shown in the 996 PET and plug them into Pelican. Pelican will show what the new superseded part number is, if there is one.

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Hi Greg, so sorry... I had ordered most of the parts from Pelican Parts, but the clutch pivot ball I got from Autohaus. I had wondered the same thing as you, but if you go to link below for the updated clutch fork, you'll see the associated parts below that you can scroll through and find the ball pin which has the same part number as above and explicitly references the association to the updated fork. I have a call into them for peace of mind and will let you know if I discover anything new. Due to other shipping delays, my project was delayed, so working on it this weekend and next... we can stay in touch! https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/99711671201

IMS/CLUTCH PROJECT UPDATE... I received all my parts for Clutch and IMS project, and while I would not qualify for LN's warranty as I'm not a "certified mechanic" I thought it would still be wise to follow LN's pre-qualification process to verify that state of the engine from a baseline perspective. It's quite an extensive checklist, which includes scoping the cylinders from under the sump and testing AOS among other things. So I started on the simplest of items which was hooking up the durametric to run the various system checks. I had no faults and all the tests came back ok, except for cam deviation: bank 1 (-10.44) and bank 2 (-5.64). Car was at temp and while I did not run it hard/hot for extended period of time as some suggest, I don't suspect bank 1 would move enough to be within Prosche's +/- 6 degree spec. The car ran fine except for clutch, no leaks and prior owners oil analysis did not leave me to believe I had an imminent IMS concern, but this cam deviation has me doing a reset on priorities. My throughs are that regardless if I proceed with IMS, I have to resolve the cam issue, which means I'm dropping both the engine and trans. LN is recommending I go in (based on the above figures) to at a minimum change the timing chain guides and preferably chains 4 and 5. From an overall budget/priority perspective, if I discover I have the dual row which is not showing any concerning issues, I might delay that job to prioritize the variocam and any other "convenient" engine refresh items while in there. Still thinking through the pros/cons of doing it all vs. phasing it over time. For now the absolute must-do's are changing the clutch and flywheel (as I can no longer drive the car because of them) and correcting the cam deviation and any highly convenient engine refresh items. Since I'm at 90k, I'll do the appropriate service (plugs, filters, etc.) and if dropping engine I can more easily check all the other things that traditionally fail. As this cam throws a wrench in my planning/thinking, welcome this group's thoughts... QUESTIONS... Any opinions on how imminent of a concern for these cam deviations (i.e., car should not be driven until corrected)? Should I do the related clutch job to properly evaluate the car before dropping the engine, or based on above facts, just drop both and move on? If I'm going in to replace variocam pads and suggested chains, what else would be "crazy" for me not to do while in there? Any videos/references you have used that might help me assess whether I proceed on this journey as a DIY or pursue indy shop job? Did I miss anything I should be thinking about?

So the variocam numbers high and should be throwing a code, but they may actually be half of those values which r still high. Even at half the value u r on the edge of a cell. I dont remember what the math was for the reason it reports as double but it has to do with the units of measure. Its been explained to me so u might find it in a previous post. The durametric has been know to give odd readings and not report many functions in a '99. It is save to drive the car up until u get a cell. I may be able to give u a good deal on some parts for servicing your engine. I had done all of the work ahead of u and blew the motor 300 miles later. No intermix and immediate shut down so there was no damage to the internal parts. I have new hoses for both coolant and vac lines, pads, guides, new variocam soleniods and a new actuator. Pm me and i should be able to get u list if interested.

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For clarification on car that I have, it's a 2000 996.1 C2 w/ 90k miles... still may have the same challenges with durametric readings, but could also be due to not having been able to drive it far due to clutch. I have the same sense as you, that if it's not throwing a fault code, it's ok to drive... I'm just trying to get ahead of the curve. Once I figure out what I'm doing, I'll reach out if I need any parts.

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if i remember my numbers were around -11 on one bank and it was also a y2k c2 but i was using an Autel scanner. Its time to do the pads but its not broken yet.

Cam Deviation Follow-up and Next Steps... Drove car to fully warm up and check deviation again, and came back with similar figures... details below... FIRST TIME (30+ min Idle): -10.44 / -5.64 2ND TIME COLD (5 min idle): -10.84 / -5.67 2ND TIME HOT (15 min idle + 30 min drive): -10.13 / 5.64 Waiting for manometer to test AOS, and will do filter/sump evaluation, but assuming I'm only dealing with typical timing issue (pad/chain), my tentative project plans are now... DOING NOW WITH ENGINE / TRANNY DROPPED - Clutch / Flywheel (including updating clutch lever / pin, etc.) - IMS (LN Dual Row Retrofit) / RMS - Bank 1 and Bank 2 Variocam Pads - the two Cam to Cam chains - Possibly 1 of the inaccessible tensioners - Spark Plugs (new seals for tubes) - Water Pump / LN Low Temp Thermostat - Oil pump hex drive, pressure relief upgrade - All new seals (including for solenoids) - Any tubes, etc. I discover along the way needing replacement TENTATIVELY NOT DOING (Items that can only be done with engine out, but not obvious I need to do now) - Long chains / paddles (not seeing in threads other than convenience, where all 5 chains should be replaced at this time) - cam bearings (might measure for wear) - piston rings (unrelated, but will do leak down test before teardown) - Solenoids (will test to be sure in operating condition) - con rod bolt upgrades (depending if I do a full tear down or not) DOING LATER (To phase cost and project work that are easy enough to do w/ Engine in) - Accessible chain tensioners (I think tensioners were updated in late 2000 shortly after production of my C2 for durability) - AOS (if manometer test comes back ok) - Coils (While a nice-to-do, not seeing an urgent need, unless I discover some damage) Any thoughts on above. Did I miss anything you would do? Anyone know if there is a particular chain, tensioner or solenoid that is problematic or that could be tested or measured to prioritize the scope of the project? I'm trying to find the right balance between convenience and budget, and thread the needle between the philosophies of getting ahead of it and not fixing what's not broken. Thanks, in advance, for any insights.

I would just do all 3 tensioners. 2 r on the bottom, ims and bank1. Bank 2 just requires u to lift the ac compressor.

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You convinced me :-) Makes sense to take care of the related timing items. If I scope and confirm no cylinder scoring and essentially have no observable leaks or other reasons to entertain a full teardown, does it make sense to leave well enough alone at 90k? In other words, to avoid suffering from "while I'm in there syndrome" or doing more harm than good, am I better off just tearing down far enough to take care of what is wrong (timing), and proactively addressing the obvious precautions (IMS, water pump, oil driver, er, etc.) and not make the leap into doing an engine refresh? Just curious what you would use as decision points to determine how deep to go?

If there is little to no scoring i wouud not go beyond what u r doing. Basically anything beyond the head = full rebuild in my book.

I'm basically in the same boat. Just picked up a 2002 c2 in late December. Already finished the IMS, but clutch and flywheel have <10k on them. Water pump, coils, and plugs all have an established maintenance history too. Doesn�t leave much to add so I threw in motor and transmission mounts to my list.

UPDATE: Finally started the project and began prepping to drop engine. Found the bits below at bottom of oil sump. The normal plastic brown bits expected related to timing issue, but also two unexpected metal pieces. Anyone have any idea what's going on here?

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Damn dude, that's not good. I know you got great pictures, but place a coin next to them for size reference. It almost looks like the wall of a pump in the pics, either Scavenge pump or oil pump..or maybe the top of a lifter.. yea a lifter top...Did you have any other symptoms?. You may want to start a new thread..

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Updated pictures showing front and back side of larger fragment (all non-ferrous)

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Bringing back an old thread maybe. I am curious how bad your chain guides looked when you did this? I have seen a few bits in my filter as well.

2 of them were starting to get pretty chewed up