AOS replacement and pad change out.

And so it begins, after lunch of course. Jacked the car up last night and had to run errands today but I'm ready to go! More to follow!

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Looks like 10 1/2" of dimensional lumber on each side for..........

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In lieu of wearing a helmet.

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yup and FYI guys..... motherStrekStrekStrekStreker. working on the intake

Hey you need company? I can give you a hand. I'm done with my weekend chore (front pads and rotors on the S500).

Well, it'll be both of us...I have an AOS here and am getting ready to begin the job as I type this.

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Hey, I'm fighting this bastard. I'd love the company. PM'd

The AOS is out! I was having a tough time with the coolant clips.... Can I reuse those?

Did you remove the intake?

yup

So, I've got engine lowered down to the crossmember, the air filter box and throttle body are off, the four left side intake plenum hose clamps are loose and I'm starting to get a few hoses and electrical connections off/out of the way. The problem now, is that I'm not sure which hoses and electrical leads need to be disconnected. Would you please post a picture or two of the area so I can see which ones you pulled and which ones you left alone?

I'm writing hang on a bit.

Loosen both sides of the intake plenum cause you're going to need to wiggle it around to get it off. The plenum has one vent connector that you need to remove. I left the throttle body connected enough to just lay it down near the pulleys. I disconnected the electrical connection from the throttle body. After you get the plenum out you'll have to loosen the clamps on the second air "thingy" behind the plenum. I used a 3/8s? (1/4) ratchet to get the intake bolts out. The bitch is the coolant clamps. squeeze and pull and plyer them. get read for some coolant on the floor (1 cup?).

Ok. Thanks for the heads up. Hell, I may want to drive to your place tomorrow to see what you've done. I'm an hour away in Mission Viejo.

Take highway 74.... PM'd my address if your interested... I've got it all back together minus the throttle body. StrekStrekStrekStrek I'm tired.

Wow! You work fast.

I would have gotten done sooner but I was unsure if the aos was in properly. And then the intake took forever to get the bolts back in. Buy a magnetic grabber, you might need it. I did three times.

I've got one...because I tend to have butter fingers with nuts and bolts.

Ok now photos! Dropping the motor makes life SOOOO much easier. On photo 2 you can see the three disconnects I did, left is the electrical from the throttle body. Middle is the vent on the intake. Right is the vent connected to the plenum. Photos three and four show how much oil was bloing into my intakes!!!!! WOW amazing that I didn't throw a code. Last photo shows the **** clips for the coolant.

Nice job! Is removing the muffler cans needed for access?

I dropped them because it looked like they'd hit the rear 1/4 panel when I dropped the engine. It also opens up a little more access. Add the fact that I need to get the muffler rewelded since the bead is cracking on the inlet pipe. GHL exhaust = nice beads but lousy strength.

Good work. Pics are always good too.

Dont know what point you are at, But cover those darn intake holes befer you drop something down there.

Well I was done sewed it all back up ran it and everything was good. Got through three brake pad replacements (piece of cake). Back right pads were going in until I found a drip drip drip.... the top coolant connection on the AOS is seaping out coolant. MotherStrekStrekStrekStreker. I started to take everything off again and stopped after the intake. I've got other **** to do and need to relax for the remainder of the weekend. Not a happy camper. And to answer my own question in post #9 , no you cannot reuse them.

I've been trying to get the fourth bolt off the intake and am getting nowhere. Four hours on that bolt. I went to Sears and bought a 1/4" drive 10mm swivel socket and a flexible extension. The problem is I can't get the socket head onto the bolt head, which I can feel with my fingers. It's just too tight to get my fingers AND the socket head in there, so I've reverted to trying to just feel for it with the socket and...nothing. Ideas?

Are talking about the fourth bolt from the top of the picture (without the silver washer)? I didn't need a swivel socket.. Just a 1/4 in ratchet with a three inch extension. Having the swivel socket on there will make it a real pain in the ***.

Another issue once you're putting it back together... Make sure your throttle cable is in the right place. Mine was pushed to the passenger side and did not sit properly with the throttle.

Thanks. I finally got it off. You're right, I meant the sixth and last bolt. I finally just tried (again) to go straight down with the right combination of extensions and got it. What a pain. You're right, straaight down was the way to go. I've been taking tons of pictures, so when I'm through with this, I'll fire up another thread detailing my experience. The AOS is off...I'm having a beer...and I'm getting ready to put the new one on.

MAKE SURE THE COOLANT LINES ARE TIGHT!

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I hear that! Man that soocks

Yep, couldn't stand it and went out and picked up a couple hose clamps, took EVERYTHING apart again and fixed the hose, I THINK (didn't see it go in but am guessing) I dumped some coolant into the intake so I'm guessing I'll have a fouled plug next....

We did the same thing Sat morning, but went a bit further as we have other work to do in addition to the AOS replacement.

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That sucks

Yea it does! Wow. I took your advice and made sure the hoses and clamps were TIGHT and on perfectly. Should be no leak. Tomorrow I'll finish up and hopefully all will be well.

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I know that house...rather I know that F-car wheel....Chino Hills I presume? Like a hooker on a cold night. Awesome hope you enjoyed your journey as much as I did..... o.0 I'm kinda pissed I left it like this (first photo) but I was able to get the pads done without a fuss. (Excluding the brake wear sensors, PITA) On a lighter note, I took my Grandfathers wine making jugs that I got from my mom last week and filled them with corks taken from where my wife works..... Cycle of life I guess. I never met my grandfather but he made wine in Latvia, Sweden and Canada. He died when my mom was 15.... His journey in life was certainly one to admire.

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Yes sir

Brake ducts done! Link to GT3 ducts

Hey on the bright side this pup will be in great shape when she's all done!

I know when I started it up yesterday before knowing about the little leak....It sounded smoother and seemed to rev better without all that oil going into the intakes!

OK I've got a problem. I was going to spend an hour putting this back together today, but I found a vacuum line that appears broken. It's connected to a "X" connection(blue arrow), one line leads to a rubber sleeve connecting the the plenum to the intake. (light blue arrows) One connection leads to a control valve that then goes to the resonance tube (the tube behind the plenum) (magenta arrows) Mystery connection, it's not connected at the "X" I'm assuming I pulled it off of somewhere. (Yellow arrow) And a broken vent line that I can't find a mate to. (green arrow) Please help!

Done. It runs great and no leaks. The best part is that I can take off my oil cap while idling again! Couldn't do that last week. I'll try to put together a fairly concise description of how I did it. Maybe the next guy that has to do this can actually use it.

Very happy for you...Great job!

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awesome! Glad you got it back together. I found the diagram I needed. I'll be up and running in the next couple days when I have time.!!!!!! Still want the photos! Afterwards, we're going to meet on the 74 to run to Palomar! Ed

Sounds great!! I love that road!

you boys were busy! wtg!

Almost there, found awesome photo gallery of a Boster engine getting torn apart. Found EXACTLY where my missing vacuum line goes! http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...erTech-126.htm

Good job!

I called Walters Prosche to see if they had about a foot of the tubing. Went to Walters on the way home from work. $8 something a meter. He asked how much I needed and I said 2ft incase I screwed up. He cuts me the line and tells me to put my wallet away! Nice! Thumbs up to Walters Porsche of Riverside.

Done! And FYI make sure you cover those intakes I did dump coolant in there and I had to run the engine on jacks for a while to get that crap through the system. Once it was through it was running SMOOTH!!!! With fixing that vacuum line and finding sockets that fell off the intake bolts, I feel like I know the top of the M96 better than Helen Keller.

Great post, Thank you and Congratulations.

Thanks! That vacuum line took about 1/2 hour to get in. it's underneath the vacuum tank and hoses everywhere so you're using two fingers jammed in there to steady the rubber part and fishing the hard line in where ever you can....

so what is the breakdown of how long it took from start to finish? aos, pads, ducts?

I would give the AOS about 6-7 hours I was at 3 hours with the AOS installed but nothing back together. Then about another 3 to get everything back in fill a little extra coolant that I lost. Once I realized I had that leak. that added a total 4 hours extra since I disassembled and worked with the AOS in place but the intake out. Add the time I pissed around trying to fix it without breaking it all down again. Then the vacuum line break added another 45 minutes (not counting the research on figureing where the line broke since it's impossible to see the break by looking in. (It was a line that goes under the vacuum tank and is hidden by a water line. out of the 45, 30 were getting it on then 15 putting everything else back together. Brake ducts were 10 minutes, yank the other ones off and pop the new ones on. Piece of cake. I did that at midnight after I couldn't sleep and was pissed that I had the AOS leak. Brake pads were about 1.25hours. Going slow figuring out what to do and what not to do. I would say I could bang four pads out in under an hour next time. It's as tough as putting toast in a toaster... One other thing I recommend is that you clean the threads of the bolts that go on the intake. They will have thread locker on it and it gums up when reinstalling. After my first reinstall I pulled the bolts and brushed them with a dremel brush and they slid right in the second time. I did put more thread locker on too.

sounds like that AOS, vac line kicked your ***..... way to hang in there though. Now you are our vac line guru!

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Stupid mistakes are what did it. The leak was caused by me pushing the hose to far onto the AOS. The connection on the AOS has a 90 degree angle right before teh hose. They put a gusset on there and I pushed the hose onto it then tightened the clamp around the hose and the gusset which made a hair width gap in the hose... The vacuum line was me pulling out the plenum and the rubber boot stayed with the plenum, when I "popped" it out from between the intakes it pulled on the vacuum line and cracked the line that was underneath, since it's a short one (120mm). Heck I didn't know they were vacuum lines until after, I thought they were some sort of breather lines. I almost feel guilting wanting to put it on the market. I've got to know her so well!

Got the check engine light out today. I was at the Doctors office and figured I could head over to the the Midas place that used to service my work truck. They cleared the code. (P0410 & P1411) And rewelded the muffler where it was cracking around the in port side of the muffler..... $25 nice!

Way to go, good work.

Yeah, now it's, "Sell it or Keep it...."HMMMMMM

Hi CDLVancouver, i see you just done some work on your 996. I'm replacing my AOS now. I have a broken hose and a couple of other issues. Tell me, from the diagram, does "30" goto the front rubber sleeve plenum and "29" go to the vacuum tube on the rear resonannce tube?

I am having issues with being able to tighten the driver side manifold bolt closest to the aos. I managed to get it in the hole, but i can't get a socket on it now to tighten it. It's almost as if the aos isn't completely straight, but things were tight when i had installed it. I would assume that i need to remove the manifold and aos again and see if that helps.

Thank you to all who posted in this thread. I have an '03 Boxster S but did a '03 M96 3.6L from a 911 back in 2016 and it has been a pretty good conversion. Over time I've noticed a less crisp throttle response but still an even idle, good driveability overall. Just didn't seem to be making all the power. I recently hooked up the Durametric and without any CEL still showed an intermittant PO660 code. (switch-over valve issue) Based on what I've read thus far, it seems the best way to address a PO660 code is to have ready access to any of the vacuum lines and/or switch over valves by pulling the entire intake plenum assembly. Seems easiest is to drop the motor in a 911 to get to some of the bolts towards the front of the motor. However, would the same hold true in a Boxster? (I could justify this as I have a small but chronic oil leak somewhere in upper forward facing left of motor--maybe cam seal as the engine is flipped-flopped in this conversion.) That said, I can live with a few drops of oil as it hasn't worsened over time. I also clarify this for a couple of other reasons: Does anyone know why In a 3.2 Boxster there only seems to be one switch-over valve vs 3 in the Carrera? I also have pretty reasonable access to the top side of the motor whereby I can leave motor in place and only pull the plenum. This would also make accessing those pesky couple of bolts that posed an issue when motor in place in 911 easier to see and address. Lastly, I realize this is 14 YO post now but wanted to know what we are looking at in the pictures showing the open intake runners in the 3 or 4th image of the series. There seem to be 2 identical pics and I don't see hoses or valves in either. Thanks in advance.