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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHDo I need new Starter or just Y Cable?
Leading reported evidence
Disconnect from the starter
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The Y cable isn't expensive, so you may as well replace it while you have it disconnected from the starter.
Leading evidence: 'Disconnect from the starter' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect from the starter' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Is this a DIY or do you guys recommend having a shop do it.
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Suggestion
The engineering tolerances are tight but it's really cool to see how logical access paths and repair were factored into the complexity.
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Suggestion
You should be able to replace the starter with just removing the front plenum for the throttle body.
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Just because it didnt do it in the hour the shop looked at it doesnt mean it fixed itself.
Since bringing my 996.1 a few days ago, she starts up ok when cold. There's a slight delay where I hear a turn and then she's up and running. But twice now I've stalled pulling into the driveway and when trying to immediately start back up, nothing. If I give it a few minutes, she starts up but I can hear that its struggling to get there.
I've read that this isn't an uncommon problem, but just not sure if this is simply due to corrosion of the Y cable or if I might need a whole new starter. Or how I'd go about figuring it out.
Thanks all!
Let's try to diagnose this a little more. The starter/alternator cable corrodes over time and when the car is warm and fans turn on, the corrosion in the cable doesn't allow the battery to charge so the voltage drops and the battery struggles to start the car. There are a couple tests for this, but the easiest is to look at the voltmeter on the dashboard, What is the voltage when you start the car and what is it before you pull back into the driveway. If it drops to 12 or lower when warm, it is very likely you need a new cable. What is the highest the voltage gets and what is it when hot?
Let us know.
Ok
@996-CAB
took it out this evening. The Amps were under twelve when I started it up in the garage and just a drop under 14 when I pulled in at home later.
If the voltmeter was showing just under 14 as you got home, then you can rule out the Y cable. It's your starter. The Y cable isn't expensive, so you may as well replace it while you have it disconnected from the starter.
Kinda a 2....maybe a 3 bannana out of 5 on the monkey list. The hardest part is getting the plenum boots back in correctly. All u need is basic hand tools.
Sounds like you guys are suggesting a DIY approach. What�s the technical term for the Y cable I should search for if I want to buy it online with the starter?
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I agree, that was my experience as well. I posted
HERE
(post #71 and #72) how I replaced that cable
without removing the AC compressor and alternator. Hope this helps.
I actually just did this work because i had to replace my oil cooler, and i did the starter and AOS while i was in there. FCP Euro has some good videos on Youtube on what you have to do. My car had similar symptoms to you -the starter would crank slow, and sometimes it wouldn't start.
You Tube
You should be able to replace the starter with just removing the front plenum for the throttle body. Access will be tight - i replaced mine with both intake plenums off the car and it was super easy. HOWEVER, i wouldn't take both intakes off unless you are doing other work. Taking it apart and putting it together again is a PIA if you have large hands like me. Definitely replace the starter Y cable at the same time, mine had a bunch of corrosion on it which probably caused the slow start issues.
it turns over great now. Fingers crossed that nothing leaks LOL
I was at my indy the other day to get a few other things looked at so I just figured, what the hell, let me ask him to take a look at it. He calls me up this morning and says, there's nothing wrong, we can't reproduce the problem. So there's 2 possible scenarios here. 1) This 24 year-old engine/starter is behaving as expected for something of its age and use. or 2) These guys are missing something in their "tests."
I asked them if they tried starting the engine when it was already warm to replicate my problem and they said yes. Its a pretty reputable shop and at the same time I don't think they'd tell me it was nothing if they thought there could be work done there and they could make some money. So I guess I'm a bit stumped.
Any thoughts folks?
My thoughts r the starter is bad and it will leave u stranded one if these days. If it has had "hard" starting for u....its got a problem. Just because it didnt do it in the hour the shop looked at it doesnt mean it fixed itself.
Just did the starter and used this video. Agree -- unless you're doing a few other things, leave the rear intake/plenum alone. The front one can really be enough of a PIA to remove. On mine (2/98 build), the vacuum line routing was different than what's in the FCP Euro video. The whole job took me a little over an hour of actual work time. It's tedious and will test your patience but just take it slow and take breaks and it's actually not very hard. The engineering tolerances are tight but it's really cool to see how logical access paths and repair were factored into the complexity. One thing I'd add that I haven't seen mentioned: have good lighting. A headlamp or something magnetic to get into the engine bay for when (not if) you drop a bolt or need to guide your ratchet to a bolt head near the rear firewall. I also recruited my daughter to help out. To NY_Swede's point, small hands help!
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