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YOUR RESEARCHIMS additional proactive suggestions?
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Replace already
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Suggestion
You didn't mention any service history - do you know if any of those components have been replaced already?
I intended to replace the rear main seal (purchased it) but I saw that the seal had been previously been replaced already with the updated design, wasn't leaking, and decided it was best to let sleeping dogs lie.
Leading evidence: 'Replace already' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check bores' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
In the end, I feel like I wasted money - the clutch looked to be in good shape, as were the other components (there's a good chance they'd been replaced already).
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Suggestion
If you’re that far in, check the bores for wear and consider doing the crank or rod bearings.
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Suggestion
Since you have to remove the engine, inspect the vacuum lines to the secondary air valves.
I intended to replace the rear main seal (purchased it) but I saw that the seal had been previously been replaced already with the updated design, wasn't leaking, and decided it was best to let sleeping dogs lie.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
In the end, I feel like I wasted money - the clutch looked to be in good shape, as were the other components (there's a good chance they'd been replaced already).
Replace chain tensioners, since they'll also be out
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Suggestion
With that criteria, I would consider the throw out bearing, pressure plate, the pivot pin for the clutch fork, and consider replacing the chain tensioners, since they'll also be out for the IMS.
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Suggestion
I intended to replace the rear main seal (purchased it) but I saw that the seal had been previously been replaced already with the updated design, wasn't leaking, and decided it was best to let sleeping dogs lie.
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15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Optionman1 isn't wrong about those things needing maintenance, but Clutch, Flywheel, RMS are the only ones listed at also need the transmission off. With that criteria, I would consider the throw out bearing, pressure plate, the pivot pin for the clutch fork, and consider replacing the chain tensioners, since they'll also be out for the IMS. Assuming you have a manual.
The other things are good, but can be done another time. The AOS is a little easier with the transmission out if you have an automatic.
Definitely AOS and Rear Main Seal. If a six speed, and the clutch is more than half worn out, then replace the clutch and pressure plate, and throw out bearing. Since you have to remove the engine, inspect the vacuum lines to the secondary air valves. By now they are brittle as hell so replace them.
Engine out is also a good time to replace the coolant reservoir IF there is sign of leakage.
Everyone covered the usual suspects, so I think I'll play devil's advocate for a moment. You didn't mention any service history - do you know if any of those components have been replaced already? When I did my IMS Solution my car had about 80k miles on it and I had just purchased it without service history. In retrospect, I got carried away with the "while you're in there" and spent more money than I needed to. I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and dual mass flywheel. I intended to replace the rear main seal (purchased it) but I saw that the seal had been previously been replaced already with the updated design, wasn't leaking, and decided it was best to let sleeping dogs lie.
In the end, I feel like I wasted money - the clutch looked to be in good shape, as were the other components (there's a good chance they'd been replaced already). In the event that you do need to replace something in a few years, dropping the transmission again really isn't too big of a hassle if you have access to a lift. It isn't something I'd look forward to - but it comes down to balancing the cost. Parts add up FAST. I did not replace the AOS (did a poor man's manometer test prior) and never had any issues the 4+ years I owned the car.
Anyway, just my 2 cents. If your goal is to cover all your bases and make everything as new and reliable as possible so you don't need to do anything else for as long as possible then the right approach to is replace everything you can get your hands on. But more often than not, I'd guess that the parts are still in very serviceable condition and you're not getting a lot of bang for your buck.
Couldn�t agree more with this post. Items like the solution and UAOS are definitely a smart cost effective upgrade while in there. Wish I had done the solution some years ago vs the retrofit. When service lifespan is up on the retro, the solution is going in. UAOS is also a no brainer, if you�re keeping the car tackle these maint. Items and replace with the robust components (in my opinion).
I agree with Charlie on this one. Inspect carefully and replace as needed. IMSB and UAOS, no brainer. Cheap items like RMS, go for it, if leaking. Car only has 30K on it, replacing the clutch seems a bit overkill, unless it was drag raced.
You have accumulated a solid list here.
Charlie is right. You certainly can do everything on the list at the same time, but it will be very expensive. Or you can take a look at your service history and see what has been done and when, and from there build out a rotational plan to replace specific items that can be grouped together in locations, procedures and time intervals to spread out the costs.
A good example would be if the car's records tell you that you need to do the IMS, it will make sense to look at the clutch, flywheel and RMS to either outright replace them if you prefer or see if they need to be replaced. Either way, you are incurring the cost of dropping the engine/tran.
You get the idea. If you have service records, it's easier to set up a cost effective rotation of service and replacements. If cost isn't an issue and you want piece of mind, do it all at once, and then you can start your rotation going forward.
Either way, the 996 is an awesome car that is worth every penny however you choose to service it. But the key is that you must service it or you will have a very pretty paperweight sitting in your garage.
Thanks to everyone for all the thoughtful replies. The car arrives tomorrow and I won't sleep much tonight. I had aTarga back around 1982 (wish I still owned it). I'm 73 now and this is a really big indulgence supported and encouraged by my amazing wife. The car has an excellent service history so I am optimistic.
If your dropping the motor I would do the things that require the motor to be out of the car, that is what I did. Depending on the maintenance history, there may be quite a few things that should be addressed. It cheaper to do them now, while the motor is out. If you don't and they fail afterwards, it costs twice as much. Just a Porsche newbie's opinion.
Good to hear the car has an excellent service history. You may be in a good position to begin setting up a rotational service plan where you don't have to do it all at once. Let us k now when you get it. Don't forget pictures!
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