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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHwont start when hot
Reported or suspected cause
crank sensor.now everything seams
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
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0
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Read evidence and context
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Reported cause · Original poster
The problem was the Crank sensor.now everything seams to be perfect...we'll see.
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Suggestion
I doubt your cleaning damaged anything and note that when ppl refer to CPS, they mean the crankshaft position sensor, which is on the driver side at where the transmission joins the engine.
Leading evidence: 'crank sensor.now everything seams' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'crank sensor.now everything seams' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean damaged anything and note' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The garage changed out the crank position sensor which they found was not giving any output when hot and they also changed the purge valve which was found to be making odd noises at idle.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
I doubt your cleaning damaged anything and note that when ppl refer to CPS, they mean the crankshaft position sensor, which is on the driver side at where the transmission joins the engine.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
i forgot to mention that just before the problem beguin i found that the engine on the right side near the camshaft adjuster (and selenoid) was dirty and i decided to clean in up wth an engine cleaner...do you think that could break the camshaft sensor when i cleaned the engine?
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Clean damaged anything and note
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Suggestion
I doubt your cleaning damaged anything and note that when ppl refer to CPS, they mean the crankshaft position sensor, which is on the driver side at where the transmission joins the engine.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
i forgot to mention that just before the problem beguin i found that the engine on the right side near the camshaft adjuster (and selenoid) was dirty and i decided to clean in up wth an engine cleaner...do you think that could break the camshaft sensor when i cleaned the engine?
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The garage changed out the crank position sensor which they found was not giving any output when hot and they also changed the purge valve which was found to be making odd noises at idle.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Last friday i went to a Porsche mechanic living close to me and he had the scanner on the car...everythings perfect no code at all and the engine was running like new.
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18 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T191851Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hello folks...,
Yesterday after 30 minutes while i was waiting at a stop light suddenly with no reason thte engine stop and all the dash lights open...I tried to restart the car with no success.
After about an hour the car start right away and work without any problem until i parked the car in my driveway and then after 2 minutes the engine stoped again and refuse to start before and hour.
I have had tried and jumped the fuel relay with no success...could it be as simple as a bad ignition switch? or vapor locked? or any other idea?
Thanks
Robert
2000 996 c4
When you say it won't start, does it turn over and not fire, or does it not crank? Important to know the difference. If it doesn't turn over, then maybe a heat soaked starter, bad battery, low voltage, Y connector, ignition switch. If it does turn over but not fire, then fuel or spark, as stated the CPS, crank position sensor, clogged fuel filter, faulty fuel pump. A bad ignition switch causes all sorts of problems. An engine needs fuel, air, spark. You have to start with the basics. Any CEL or codes?
Dying at a stoplight is different from won't start. Yours died - so I'd look at what can interrupt spark or gas. A clogged fuel filter is one possible candidate.
How much fuel is in the tank? Fill it to more than 1/2 and try again. Have you disconnected the battery recently? If so was the tank more then 1/2 full when you did?
+1 for CPS
Here is an update folks..,
I finally filled up my gas tank and put a new batteries on,,, the one in the car was real old...anyway it did not changed nothing.
Last friday i went to a Porsche mechanic living close to me and he had the scanner on the car...everythings perfect no code at all and the engine was running like new.
Yesterday i decided to take the car to go downtown.After about half an hour near a red light i depressed the clutch and for no reason once again the engine stopped.Then the engine crank and crank but refuse to start.I went downtown by bus and at night we came back home and while we were on the interstate at aroud 65mph we felt a big hick up cumming from the engine but it did not stop but as soon as we stopped at the stop light maybe 3 minutes later the engine stopped running and ....Waited and hour and a half restart the engine and then back home.
Any idea please help
Robert
Ideas - crank position sensor, faulty (about to fail) fuel pump, clogged fuel filter. Have you done/had done any repair jobs or maintenance recently? Do you have access to anyone with Durametric so you can read some real time data?
Amended to include some thoughts based on AWDGuy - it sounds like once the engine gets hot you have something like vapor lock, or like the fuel in the fuel rails is vaporizing when the engine is hot. There is a vapor recovery valve located on the fuel tank that may be stuck. I'm just throwing suggestions and it appears you may need some professional help. You need to be able to watch your fuel trims in real time mode. You need to verify fuel pressure at the fuel rails. It could be a weak fuel pump, clogged filter...something along those lines. How does the car run otherwise? Any problems with fueling?
had the same issue and while reviewing my symptoms I'm fairly confident this is my problem:
http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/50264-success-finally-fixed-hard-start-while-hot-fueling-issues.html
have not been able to confirm that was my issue but I haven't been wrong once on this car so far. lol. I'll only be able to tell you once the motor is back iny car.
Thanks for your help but
i forgot to mention that just before the problem beguin i found that the engine on the right side near the camshaft adjuster (and selenoid) was dirty and i decided to clean in up wth an engine cleaner...do you think that could break the camshaft sensor when i cleaned the engine?
Thanks
The hall sensor is back there on the head. Could have damaged it, or dislodged the connector. Maybe someone with more experience with the hall sensor(s) can weigh in on whether that might be causing your engine to die. If damaged, it might be causing the DME to reduce fuel trim on that bank to the point of not having enough fuel to run. Seems like the engine would really be running rough and uneven and that point.
I doubt your cleaning damaged anything and note that when ppl refer to CPS, they mean the crankshaft position sensor, which is on the driver side at where the transmission joins the engine. Next time when it happens again, see if the tach needle bounces a little when you crank the engine. If it does not, the DME is not getting any signal from the sensor. If it does, it's not conclusive.
There are some resistance and voltage you can check but if it's intermittent, those tests will be difficult as you have to catch the failure in action.
Having said that, I'm not sure a bad CPS can stall an engine. I would think it can. Usually it only causes hot start issues with no error codes logged.
Just picked up my car from the garage having left it with similar symptoms in that it would be very difficult to restart when hot. It would have to crank over a lot and then just catch.
I would feather to gas to keep it going for about 10 seconds and then it would settle into a lumpy
idle.
Other than that it ran fine.
The garage changed out the crank position sensor which they found was not giving any output when hot and they also changed the purge valve which was found to be making odd noises at idle.
Everything is fine now.
Hope this helps.
Pete
The issue of the car losing power at speed would concern me the most - both from a safety standpoint as well as mechanical. Plenty of cars destroy themselves on the dyno when something gives and the rest of the engine has to keep running anyway...
As its a running problem could you fuel tank breather be blocked and causing a vacuum. If it happens again take the fuel cap off and see if you get an air intake noise. (You shouldn't) the vacuum would stop the fuel getting to the fuel pump.
O_Sr
Glad to see you got it sorted. Just wondering if you noticed the tach needle bouncing or not with the bad crank position sensor when you start the car?
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