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YOUR RESEARCHNo Fuel Supply to Cylinders
Leading reported evidence
Replace because o-ring inside can only be
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Alldata instructions say cap on tester valve must be replaced because o-ring inside can only be used once.
Leading evidence: 'Replace because o-ring inside can only be' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'fuel issue you will need a fuel pressure gauge' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check easily' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The hose can be replaced, make sure you get submersible fuel hose.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Alldata instructions say cap on tester valve must be replaced because o-ring inside can only be used once.
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Suspected cause
If you still suspect a fuel issue you will need a fuel pressure gauge to see what your start / run fuel rail pressure is.
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2003 C2
I posted before on misfires and not starting. Since then I have determined it's a fuel and not ignition problem.
Background: Purchased car in November 20 with 48k miles. Now has 52k. Posted before about my P300, P301, P302 and P303 misfires only on startup. Happened about one in ten or twenty starts. Took advice from the forum and just got my Durametric. Week ago for the first time ever engine lugging when accelerating. Ran fine at cruise. Pulled over and restarted and drove fine 25 miles home. Hooked up Durametric (see photo) when got home.
The next morning hooked up Durametric and started. Saw immediate misfires on cylinders 1, 2 and 3. These quickly ended. Ran fine for half a mile and start lugging. I had my laptop on the passenger seat with Durametric running checking misfires on all cylinders. Misfires on other bank for the first time. Pulled over. Cranks but won't start. Not even firing. Durametric currently shows no faults. Maybe that is because the program was running last time car ran.
I have another thread about a AOS leaking coolant around a hose clamp. Thinking unrelated to this issue.
Today popped off air filter and squirted in some starter fluid. Fired right up and ran for couple seconds. I can hear the fuel pump spool up before start.
Any ideas? Have been searching other threads. Appreciate being pointed to a relevant one.
Just learning the Durametric. Not sure what it can tell me about fuel system when car is not running. Probably going to get a noid light if Durametric doesn't help.
You can check to see if are you getting fuel from your pump. Disconnect the quick connect line in the engine bay, put a bucket or cup near the end and have someone else turn the key to ON (NOT START) This will prime the fuel pump. If you get a gush of fuel out of the line then you are at least getting fuel. If you still suspect a fuel issue you will need a fuel pressure gauge to see what your start / run fuel rail pressure is.
Because u hear the pump doesnt mean its pumping. U can put a fuel pressure guage in line, but i would just pull the pump and make sure the in-tank tube didnt fall off. This happens sometime.
If u were driving on a failing pump and had low fuel pressure u will get all kinds of codes. If it starts on ether then u r not getting fuel to the motor. U can confirm this with a guage or just address the pump. U r wasting your time if u dont do this diagnostic first.
Hooked up the Durametric got "Tank pressure difference = 1.8hPa" and "Tank pressure difference filtered = 1.8hPa".
I'm guessing the two numbers are pre and post filter. Remember engine not running and guessing doesn't matter because it needs pressure to start.
1.8hPa sounds like a big number. It's not, it's 0.026 psi.
As said I can hear the fuel pump spool up. Also in activations on Durametric, I can here the fuel pump relay click.
Comments appreciated on my analysis.
What's a new fuel pump? $50-60 : )
Those numbers are related to the fuel tank vapor purge and have nothing to do with the fuel pressure.
The fuel pump lines break or come off quite frequently inside the tank. You can check easily. Remove the square cover in the frunk. Unscrew the outer nut. Pull out the fuel pump. Check and fix the lines.
From Pelican Parts for engine drop:
On the left side of the engine (996), loosen and remove the two fittings (19 and 17mm) that hold the fuel supply and return lines to the fuel rail (green arrows). On the 997 there is a single quick disconnect on the left side (insert, blue arrow). Use caution while doing this as there will likely still be fuel in the lines.
Anyone know which of the green arrows is the fuel supply line?
Picked up rental fuel pressure tester from O'Reilly's. Zero pressure. Was a little concerned tester maybe not all the way seated on test port, so I then removed the 19mm nut from the fuel rail by the coolant expansion tank. Nada. Will open up tank Saturday. New fuel pump should come by FedEx by then.
If a hose just popped off the pump as suggested possibility, opinions on whether return new pump or install. Seems like they fail often. Car has 52k miles.
Alldata instructions say cap on tester valve must be replaced because o-ring inside can only be used once. Would have ordered one, but haven't seen online. I know it's fuel, but seems overkill. Port already has bicycle valve in it, right?
Result! Good job.
The larger diameter hose of a dissimilar pair normally is the return line.
Edit: they're identical by the looks of them but the one with the smaller nut sitting sideways is return line.
I'd order the O-ring or the whole cap if o-ring is not sold separately and fit it upon arrival.
In the meantime reuse the old one unless it's severely deformed I.e. you see the imprint in it of the other part it seals against.
A Schrader valve is technically speaking a quick-fill valve that relies on a cap for airtightness. This is especially true for fuel but also for tyre valves.
M96.01 fuel rail and hoses
You will probably find that a hose inside the tank has split. This happens all the time. The hose can be replaced, make sure you get submersible fuel hose. The recommended hose is GATES 27093 SUBMERSIBLE FUEL LINE HOSE.
If you have an OEM pump on order you might use it instead. I wouldn't use an aftermarket chinese pump, I'd rather replace the hoses on the OEM pump.
If the crankshaft sensor is not working you will not have any fuel pressure. without a signal from the position sensor the ECU does not turn on the fuel pump. Not an uncommon problem, happened to my car once.
Except In the first post he stated that he hears the pump running so its just not pumping. So most likely its the pick up tube or the pump seals went bad.
