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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH996.1 C2 Cabriolet Top Will Not Close
Leading reported evidence
Adjust potentiometer and the motor activates
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I had adjusted the potentiometer and the motor activates, but it does not pull clamshell cables.
Leading evidence: 'Adjust potentiometer and the motor activates' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust potentiometer and the motor activates' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When reinstalling the newly repaired hydraulics, be careful with the potentiometer tracking position located driver side.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
- In the video, the mechanic used a special tool to lock the shaft when loosening and tightening the end hex head...
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Suggestion · Original poster
The problem is that as I was trying to calibrate the top after adjusting the potentiometer, the top dropped from the service position on it's own, and now I cannot get it to open.
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Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T154520Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
With my 2000 Cabriolet, I was chasing a passenger window not dropping when opening top issue for which the only error code I had was 47. All the other windows dropped and the passenger window would even close with the top. This took me down a rabbit hole of checking sensors, swapping the locking mechanism, among other things. I also found threads that pointed to the potentiometer for the shell which I reset as well. Nothing fixed the core issue.
The problem is that as I was trying to calibrate the top after adjusting the potentiometer, the top dropped from the service position on it's own, and now I cannot get it to open. The sheel will not move, so in moving it manually to see if it's position was the issue, that did not change anything. When pushing the buttons to trigger close/open, the wings open and close, and I can hear the motor cycling but the top will not come up. Everything I am reading suggests that I need to fill the hydraulics, but the catch 22 is I can get to it with the top down. I attempted to physically assist as my son depressed the button to close, but it would not budge.
The only other thing I have seen is jumping the relay to bypass any sensor faults, but before I go down another rabbit hole, wondering if anyone has a quick tip to get the top open so I can access the reservoir.
first off, don�t force anything. The hydraulic cylinders where they connect to the top should be fairly accessible. Get to those and disconnect those so you�re not fighting hydraulic system. Then go from there. You sound like you�re well equipped to diagnose this, you�ll figure it out. I�m sure you have seen hundreds of threads of the cylinders need to be rebuilt, leaking, low on fluid, etc. Track that all down first.
That's the catch-22, I can't get to the hydraulics because they're covered by the top. I could get to the rams I guess, but to disconnect the lines, I think I still have to get under the top to the pump to relieve the pressure.
Get the clamp to open up till the top can start lifting. Like it was mentioned prior, remove the side speakers, remove the back seats, unplug the seat belts and pop out the side panels so you can access the hydraulic. Unbolt the hydraulics from the frame and the top, then by hand, carefully lift your top close to the windshield . Now you can access the pump by removing the cover. When reinstalling the newly repaired hydraulics, be careful with the potentiometer tracking position located driver side.
Because I knew the issue was not the rams I wanted to avoid taking more stuff apart. I figured out that I could access the relief valve of the pump from behind (picture below). I then lifted the top gently, allowing the system to bleed... just going real slow until I got it up. Once I got it up, I could access the reservoir. All the videos and guides showed different model pumps, mine was vertical and it didn't have the fill valve in the typical place... found it at the bottom of the reservoir. Filled it up halfway allowing room for when the top moves.
view from back seat, view of relief valve.
with top up, view from behind car
view from side with low reservoir
unbolted pump and opened fill hole
everything reconnected, full reservoir
My issue now, which is part of the problem that got me here is that the clamshell does not move. I had adjusted the potentiometer and the motor activates, but it does not pull clamshell cables.
With the top corrected... it opens and closes and goes through calibration (except for clamshell). I disconnted the motor from the clamshell cable mechanism (see picture below) and observed gears during operation of top. The outside gear (teeth) moved, but the inside bolt does not. Apparently, this is a known problem. Pelican Parts has a repair kit 996-561-673-01. Anyone have experience with this? Looks straightforward.
Project Complete... at least the main problem of getting the top working.
I ordered the Repair Kit
996-561-673-01 from Gaudin Porsche Parts of Las Vegas and followed the guidance in this very helpful
youtube video
. A few points:
- I used my XPRO431 to actuate the top into position using the Calibration sequence to be able to open the top as I could not open the top with the switch.
- In the video, the mechanic used a special tool to lock the shaft when loosening and tightening the end hex head... I just used a pair of needle nose pliers.
- When you put the potentiometer (blue plastic housing) back you need to make sure it snaps into place as you could accidentally install it in reverse... if it doesnt snap in you have it on wrong side.
- Before you put it all back together, you can use an ohm tester as shown in the
second video
to make sure you have the potentiometer set to the proper reading of the position of the top.
Now that I have everything back to operating order before I went down the rabbit hole of troubleshooting why my passenger window will not drop when opening the top, I am taking a break. It's a minor nuissance, but after taking door panel apart multiple times, replacing the locking mechanisim twice, testing wires and various sensors... I'll happily just lower the window manually. There's something that's triggering the alarm system calibration between the doors that I can't seem to track down. Both windows drop when opening doors. Both windows rise when closing top. Both left and righ doors lock and open with remote key. For whatever reason, the passenger window just will not drop during the top open operation as the other windows do. Oh well.
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