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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHCam cover freeze plug
Leading reported evidence
Replace plug
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Leading evidence: 'Replace plug' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace plug' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
so I need to replace the plug first, clean the engine again and see if i can see my other trouble areas a little better.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I was only doing a smoke test through the throttle body.
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Suggestion
-tap the plug into the bore using a punch at one single spot on the perimeter of the plug.
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Suggestion
Come to think of chemicals, if you're not turned off by a 'bodge job', consider sanding and cleaning the aluminium around the plug and glue a round flat piece of aluminium over it using same flange sealant.
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Suggestion
Come to think of chemicals, if you're not turned off by a 'bodge job', consider sanding and cleaning the aluminium around the plug and glue a round flat piece of aluminium over it using same flange sealant.
Use small sliding hammer, a pick or anything similar small
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Suggestion
-using a small sliding hammer, a pick or anything similar small but stiff and strong enough lever the plug out of the bore whilst taking care not to damage the bore itself.
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so now that I�ve found where one of my bigger leaks is coming from its time to replace it, seems pretty straightforward but I cannot find a video anywhere of someone doing this. The leak is coming from the rear freeze plug on the cam cover driver side next to oil pump cover. I�m assuming I have to drain the oil first, but want to know the best technique for removing the plug without damaging the cover. Also thinking oil pump cover might be in the way too. Sorry everything looks really dirty, even though I spent an hour and a half degreasing the entire engine last Sunday. Thanks in advance
No draining of oil necessary, any that is there right now won't drain.
My plan would be:
-Mark orientation of scavenging oil pump (better: look-up correct orientation and put it in correctly, irrespectively of how it's current orientation).
-remove oil pump
-slather grease on a drill bit and drill hole in plug. Swarf should stick to grease.
-using a small sliding hammer, a pick or anything similar small but stiff and strong enough lever the plug out of the bore whilst taking care not to damage the bore itself.
OR
-tap the plug into the bore using a punch at one single spot on the perimeter of the plug.
Once it has tilted one half into the bore and one half out of the bore grab the latter with pliers and yank it out.
OR
Block the bore that is closed off by this plug by shuffing a foamy/expanding ear plug into it from the square opening that feeds the scavenge pump.
Put foam rubber between cam gear and perimiter of scavenging pump seat, so the plug cannot fall into the cilinder head.
Tap the plug into the bore by tapping it around the whole perimeter.
Once you see it appearing when looking through the square hole grab it with a magnet, give it a few more light taps on one single spot to make the plug tilt such that it is no longer held in the bore but aligned so that you can pull it out the square hole.
This last method carries no benefit over the second, now that I've thought it through 😀
Are you sure that the source of the leak is indeed a (pin)hole in the plug? or is it seeping between plug and bore?
If the latter, then you definitely need loctite or permatex anaerobic flange sealer on the new plug to seal. if the first, using a sealer is still advisable.
Come to think of chemicals, if you're not turned off by a 'bodge job', consider sanding and cleaning the aluminium around the plug and glue a round flat piece of aluminium over it using same flange sealant. obviously you need to take out a 'bite' of the perimeter to clear the scavenging pump flange and you will have to seal against that flange too but it might work and hold up until you have another reason to drop the engine (slightly) and then have good access for replacement of the plug.
HTH.
ha ha, thought about sanding the plug a little and Jb welding to hold me over. Thank you for the thorough reply it�s very helpful. Here�s a video of the leak, the pressure on the crank case was very low. I was only doing a smoke test through the throttle body.
And that’s only from a very slight bit of pressure caused by a smoke machine pushing through, I did a botched blow by test, and put one more pressure in the crank then it should have, and lost about 2 quarts of oil before I realized what was happening through that same small hole, so I was freaking out, thinking I damaged something. But I didn’t know that small hole was there until my son noticed it during the smoke test. I have other areas of oil seeping, like the RMS, but nothing that drips to the floor other than the tiny hole in the freeze plug. so I need to replace the plug first, clean the engine again and see if i can see my other trouble areas a little better.
Update, I changed out the freeze plug and mitigated that oil leak also got to change out my spark plug tubes, which were leaking a little. Now the only leak I have is my RMS, which is next on the list when I do my IMS upgrade. Unfortunately I couldn’t get my phone to focus on the holes, but you can clearly see the daylight through them. I don’t know how this thing wasn’t leaking more oil.
