3 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHStarter and cable replacement
Reported repair
Disconnect battery
Reported resolution
1
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report a fix
1
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Reported fix · Original poster
I took the KN off, reset codes by disconnecting battery, everything back to normal.
Leading evidence: 'Disconnect battery' (1 discussions report resolution; 0 report an unsuccessful attempt). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'coolant hose connector' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect battery' (1 discussions). For that action, 1 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. The most frequently reported fix is 'Disconnect battery', supported by resolution reports in 1 discussions. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Reported cause · Original poster
Another issue is the coolant hose connector which bolts to the engine behind to the right of the pulley on alternator bolt.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I took the KN off, reset codes by disconnecting battery, everything back to normal.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
3 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 2 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T200546Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Slow cranking of your Porsche?
I have just replaced the
starter
and starter/alternator
cable
on our two 996s. One an automatic convertible 4 and the other is my coupe stick. There are a few insights from this experience I would like to pass on for others.
Yes, replace the
cable
and the
starter
both if you are in there. Worth the extra cost if you�re not sure which is faulty. The
cable
will require removal of the alternator which is a bit of a bear. Since you have the alternator out, put a new voltage regulator in it as that is usually what goes bad in these alternators. And they are cheap. I did file down the rear bushing on both of mine to help with installation. They need to be twisted clockwise to remove the alternator�definitely a bit of finagling. I would suggest removing the plastic + box on the
cable
and replacing it. This will make it easier to fish the old
cable
out and new one in without having to mess with the air conditioning compressor. You can likely not damage the old one and the new cable should have one on it. Heating it will help to remove the little box. I dunked it in a cup of very hot water, but I imagine a heat, gun or hairdryer would work.
Another issue is the coolant hose connector which bolts to the engine behind to the right of the pulley on alternator bolt. This connector is faulty from Porsche and falls apart. Both of mine broke while doing this job and one of them completely disintegrated I had to fish tiny pieces out of the hoses. The new ones from companies such as URO are metal as opposed to plastic that falls apart. the other thing that tends to fail is the throttlebody vibration damper, which is bolted to the lower left corner of the throttlebody.
The job requires air filter box removal, throttle body and its intake manifold behind it removal, alternator removal, a very long extension to get your socket on the starter mound bolts and removal of plastic box on the starter cable. The throttle body manifold and alternator take some finagling. Some have left the throttle body attached to its manifold but I found it easier to remove the throttle body from its manifold.
So, bottom line, I suggest buy the
starter
, the alternator/starter
cable
, a voltage regulator, a new coolant hose connector, a new throttlebody damper bolt when doing this job. My car turns over so nice now, better than expected, and I know my alternator should last a long time and that I won�t be stranded by the faulty, coolant hose connector someday.
Curtis.
PS. FWIW I put the K and N cold air intake that was given to me with my car on��.promptly ended up with ABS, PSM lights on then the check engine light. I took the KN off, reset codes by disconnecting battery, everything back to normal. Wow. I�d heard bad things about these expensive cold air intakes on our cars!
anyone want one? Good price�.
PSS. I accidentally posted this to 997 forum and didn�t edit it�.apologies to those who read it there.
Check out my posts #71-72 on
THIS THREAD
to see how I did this without removing the AC compressor and alternator. I also left the intake manifolds in place. I found the hardest part of this job was putting back the intake plenum as it requires a lot of elbow grease to squeeze back into place. Hope this helps.
It looks like I'm going to have to do this. The original is in bad shape. I wanted to have this made up locally so I could thread it through the old holders without trying to open them up. Unfortunately I was never able to source the 90 degree end that goes onto the starter end. Moss have them but it will mean I have to deal with the blocks that hold the cable. How are these mounted to the body? Will I have to deal with 35 yo rusted nuts or is it fairly easy to open them up to put the new cable in? I couldn't find any reference or photos. Appreciate the help.
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