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YOUR RESEARCHWhat needs to replaced on my suspend refresh?
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Replace drop links around a year and 2k miles ago
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For reference, here are some shots of my suspension from when I replaced the drop links around a year and 2k miles ago.
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I used the Auto Zone spring compressor for the front springs.
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Suggestion
It�s a metal joint, that�s why I suggested checking those for play.
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Suggestion
But while doing the work, I can tell you what made the most sense to replace (even with new stock components):
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I finally have garage space for bigger projects, and I�m going to tackle my suspension once winter hits. I�ve got an early build 99 coupe with what appears to be all original suspension which is getting very creaky and a little floaty.
In addition to refreshing the handling I�d also like to lower the ride height over my hollow spoke 408s. So I�m planning to start my project with Bilstein B8s and H&R sport springs. The question is, what else should I be prepared to change out at this time?
The lower control arms (coffins) are a no brainer. What about the trailing arms (tuning forks) and tie rods? Are strut mounts a must do?
FCP Euro sells some great kits if I wanted to replace absolutely everything, but I am trying to control costs without foolishly overlooking anything. Small parts can add up quick - some of the suspension washers are $50 each.
What is the best way to determine what I should replace and what I can leave alone?
LCA, rear upper control arms, rear toe arm, drop links are a must. Look at the condition of the strut mounts diagonal control arms and tie rods. What is the mileage?
I didn't replace one bolt or washer.
Keep in mind the kits from FCP are not discounted in any way.
I have H&R with the B8. Would recommend waiting until black friday as almost everything can be gotten for a small discount then. FCP is great for things that will wear out, but there are cheaper places with the same stuff that's shipped from the same warehouses.
RM European is one of my favorite.
Example
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...yle-4160500008
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...G155-V671.aspx
If you have any question feel free to ask.
Well. Since not replacing something that is specifically broken, and you're doing it to improve overall feel of the suspension, I would do them all.
All control arms and coil overs. You can take apart the stock suspension and use the washers on the aftermarket coil overs.
He shows which parts can be reused in this video:
You Tube
Already did the front drop links as a way to dip my toe into suspension work.
My car has 76k miles on the clock. How should I evaluate the condition of the tie rods and strut/shock mounts? Everything looks pretty old and dirty.
And thanks for the tip on RM. FCP Euro is my default because of their warranty and fantastic customer service, but I do order from other places when there is a big price difference.
The tie rod ends and front control arms aren't rubber so its easier to see and feel play in them.
I think the longest lasting rubber components are the top mounts for the shocks and struts. Every other rubber component I would replace regardless of the way it looks.
I went the other way and went with cost not an object replacements. But while doing the work, I can tell you what made the most sense to replace (even with new stock components):
1. Lower Control Arms (Coffin Arms) - a must as the bushing at body mount point is likely done and the ball joint ain't far behind
2. Trailing Arms (Tuning Fork) - see above, the rubber bushings are aged or aging out. Also, the mounting bushing on the LCA can be upgraded to polyurethane for a firmer feel
3. Drop Links - source of most rattles in the front end, the ball joints wear out.
4. Strut/Shock Mounts - same as above, the rubber wears out.
Bump steer and toe control arms may be in good shape or may need replacement.
Cheap upgrades - replace LCA rubber bushings with polyurethane, send LCAs to
FCP Euro
EPS for replaceable ball joints (under $200 per arm)
DON'T use polyurethane bushings in the trailing arms; either full ball joint or rubber. Too many failures with the 'upgraded'
FCP Euro
EPS trailing arms
Make sure you have proper torque specs as well. If you need them, DM me.
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I think you are confusing FCP with EPS. They are the one that sells the upgraded arm that breaks.
The trailing arms don�t have rubber bushings. It�s a metal joint, that�s why I suggested checking those for play.
The toe arm in the back does have rubber in it.
Another option are replacing just the rubber in the arms you have.
Elephant racing has them in stock and sport hardness.
Thanks for the perspective here. I�m looking to keep my car something I can still do comfortable weekend trips in, so no urethane bushings for me. I�ve got the Bentley manual with the torque specs, but thanks for the offer.
That�s a great video that helps break down the whole process. I like their suggestion to get a shop to compress and remove the springs. I may do that instead of buying spring compressors.
Sounds like Step 0 is to get the car on stands and yank on every suspension component to see what has play. But it also sounds like the consensus is to replace more, rather than fewer, of the arms and links.
If in doubt, switch it out.
I have my share of Harbor Freight tools in the garage, but this is one item I�m kind of afraid to cheap-out on. Same goes for the Auto Zone loaner.
I�m friendly with the owner of the BMW indie in my neighborhood. I�m going to see if they�ll swap the springs for around the same price as buying the tool. Especially since I�m not sure when I�d ever use spring compressors again.
The front springs don't require a compressor. The first time I did it my autozone had this compressor. I thought it worked really well and was safe.
Second time they only had the two rods version. Still works fine as it doesn't require a lot of compression to get the rears on.
When I did my fronts I loosened the top nut and replaced it on the new strut without a compressor. Maybe this was because of the shorter springs.
It just seemed the spring was under very little tension.
the only way I can see not using a spring compressor on the front is if you remove the strut nut while the suspension is under load and then slowly unload it. much easier to use a tool.
Here is my working list for minimal parts to replace, with approximate prices:
4x Shocks(B8) and Springs(H&R) $1,400
4x Lower Control Arms (coffins) $400
4x Rear Control Arms Links $225
2x Front Strut Mounts with bearings $75
Minimal Total = $2,100
Replace if worn:
2x Tie Rod Ends $80
4x Forward Control Arms (tuning forks) $400
4x Drop Links $120
2x Rear Shock Mounts $300
Additional Total $900
Grand Total $3,000
That�s Meyle for suspension arms/links and strut mounts. TRW for drop links. Genuine Porsche for shock mounts (no OE available).
All sourced from RM European or FCP Euro.
I used the Auto Zone spring compressor for the front springs. (I was able to use my threaded rod compressors on the rears.) It only costs you gas to go get it and take it back, and it's a safe, sturdy tool. Check it out thoroughly before leaving the store to be sure all the safety bits are there and that the threads haven't been destroyed by some stupid with an air gun.
As for what to replace -- it's 20+ year old German rubber. Replace every bit of rubber you take off with new. Also replace everything above the shocks/struts because why on earth would you want to have to go through that whole chore again. Don't forget to set the car down on the suspension before final tightening of any of the rubber bushings so that they are centered when the suspension is in its usual location.
H&R springs are very popular here. I chose Porsche RoW M030 springs. Check with
@Gert
at Carnewal for pricing and availability while you are doing your shopping.
EDIT: And bump stops. Be sure to get the correct ones for your ride height.
I can't tell you for certain that they'll work with your setup. I can tell you that the RoW M030 bump stops have different part numbers. I'd talk to suspension experts to find out what they use for various spring heights. If they don't have an answer or don't care what you use, move on.
