DGI's Project 996 "Sally"

Took the plunge yesterday! They say "dont buy the first 996 you see", "dont buy a 996 without a PPI", "buy the best example you can afford, etc LOL I disregarded all of that... After many many years of being a member of Porsche clubs/forums/etc and helping others with purchases, I ran across a car that I couldnt walk away from. Found a 1999 C2 on Craigslist locally to me that had been on there a while and the price kept dropping. Took the wife and kids to have a look at it yesterday. Seller was "motivated to sell this weekend" as he found a 996 Turbo he wanted to pick up, "taking it to carmax tomorrow". After taking the car for a spin and talking price I made an offer that was eventually accepted. Ended up having a friend drive it home as I followed with my wife and boys. My buddy (also a highly skilled auto tech) has a 997 C4S so figured he could give it a shake down on the way home. The car has 112K miles on it, 6 speed, came with Fikse FM-10 wheels and a set of Turbo Twist wheels. Carfax shows 7 previous owners and a clean title with only one "damage reported" by the guy I bought it from last year. Apparently his wife backed into something while taking it out of the garage and there was a police report issued but the rear bumper was repaired (no paint damage but the rear bumper cover is still a bit wavy". Seller claims the previous owner did an IMS upgrade and clutch back in 2016 and produced a receipt but i'm skeptical. The price was very right so I looked past that and crossed my fingers. I put the car on my lift once it got home and its missing most of the under carriage panels, the front bumper seems to have been repaired and the engine has its share of seepage but it drives fine, doesnt overheat and doesnt have any error lights on the dash. It has some type of Eibach springs on there. I'm not sure if they are part of a kit or what the deal is with them but the car feels planted when driving. Seeing how the car was first registered in 1998, it seems its eligible for "Historic" tags here in my home state of MD so that'll help get it on the road and to a specialist this coming week for a PPI. Im looking forward to rolling my sleeves up and getting to work on this thing as soon as possible!!!

Congrats. It looks very nice. A Meguire’s headlight restore kit will make the headlights look new again. Hope it turns out to be a great deal.

Thanks! I was planning on restoring the headlights but it looks like the insides of the housings have melted?! Is this common? I'll take better pics of this issue when I get home later today but it looks like someone put the wrong temp bulbs in there and the centers of the housings in front of where the bulb is placed has melted away some Curious how much a Litronic upgrade would go for LOL

I'd wait on the headlights and focus on the oil leak!

I have a very similar purchase story. I was looking at more expensive 996s, but bought a local one off Craigslist. Also an early build 1999 C2. I have had it a year and a half now, and I love it. I have been transforming it back into a track car which is how it started its life.

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Rock on! Do you have a build thread? Would love to see what others are going through

Is this Dimitri?!!

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Probably your best option is to purchase aftermarket headlights on eBay or Amazon. There are several versions for the Mk1. Be thankful you have the Mk2 because there are no aftermarket solutions for headlights on the Mk2 996. The aftermarket headlights are suitable for standard halogen based systems like what is on your car. Good news is they use a projector (HID like) lens to better focus the light without the pains of configuring a Xenon ballast type system.

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I do not have a build thread on what I've done, but I have thought about doing a video showing some of the mods and the cost of parts and installation.

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Found this: http://www.sierramadrecollection.com...05-p32132.html Ive taken different headlights apart in the past so I figure this was worth a shot. Found an economical pre-owned headlight set that also had lens discoloration so lets see

It looks a really nice base for a nice project! I will follow the updates and good luck!

First project disappointment. The state of Maryland goes by model year not in-service-date when calculating age so I have to wait until Jan 1st to get my "Historic" tags. The car is going through a PPI which will ultimately provide a state inspection sticker but since this car will not be a daily driver, its going on my collectors car insurance policy so historic tags are ultimately preferred. Rather than wait, I got some 30 day temporary tags so I can get the car to the dealer tomorrow for the post purchase PPI and drive it around before the weather gets worse and I get super busy at work. No rush for tags I suppose. Ive posted the Turbo Twist wheels for sale and I think i'm going to swap out the Fikse FM10s for either some Sport Classics or some 17" wheels (for now). Scheduled the PPI and an interior detail for tomorrow but I cant drop it off until after work. I was going to have them do the oil change also but the $300 price turned me off considering filter and oil cost under $100 locally. I'll take care of that after work today. Update by the end of week with what the dealership finds

I'm somewhat jealous sir. I saw the car you bought on Craigslist Friday morning, after I'd scheduled to see a similar car near Washington DC. As your car was another hour of travel for me I decided to not look into it. Well, that and it looked too good to be true. I guess I was wrong. I ended up buying the car I looked at, a silver over black 99. 110k miles, no extra Fikse wheels and only the base 17" wheels on it. I also didn't have a PPI, but at my budget level I can't afford a PPI on multiple cars so I rolled the dice. And your car was listed at less than the car I bought. Perhaps I should have been willing to travel further... I'll be following your thread. Fingers crossed for the both of us!

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Awesome! We can travel this (rocky?) road together! Are you getting youre car inspected after the fact? Do you have a thread on your car?! I've been tracking the car I bought since it was posted originally. I admit it was the Fikse wheels that attracted me to the car even though I'll likely sell them off to free up some project cash LOL

skip the dealer go straight to Indy.

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Nah, I'm actually not getting the car inspected. I figure I already own it, I'll have to fix whatever needs fixing and I'll figure it out myself (with the help of Rennlist of course). Also, I live in southwest Virginia, so there's not a lot of (obvious) P-car activity around here. The closest Porsche dealer is over two hours away (not that I'd necessarilary utilize a dealership if it were closer...). I have started a thread here. I saw your car at some point in the past on CL and thought the same thing then--that it was too good to be true. Since I live five plus hours away from Baltimore it wasn't something I pursued. Then this past Thursday (11-OCT-18) I saw the 99 I ended up buying on the DC Craigslist. I contacted the seller and set up a meeting for Friday. Friday morning before leaving home I did my usual CL search and up popped your 996. I decided not to contact that seller since my day was already going to be long (4+ hour drive to DC). Later that day I became a 996 owner myself. So yeah, we'll be traveling a similar road I guess. Mine will be slow because of budgetary constraints. Good luck and I'll be rooting for you!

<snip> Sorry for the triple post.

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Completed her first oil change yesterday. Pretty straight forward. I wish all oil changes were that easy. On my 2013 Mini JCW Clubman the filter is in a terrible location. I forgot to grab my Blackstone kit as I was in a rush to do the oil change before my 2 year old woke up so I'll have to wait to get a sample sent off in the spring time. I will be cutting open the filter after work today. It took all 9 quarts of oil and the oil level is directly in the middle of the dip stick area. Is that acceptable or must it be filled to the top fill line on the dip stick? Got the tags mounted and took her out for a quick spin as I havent driven the car since my initial test drive (had a friend driver her home) and she needs some love. The steering wheel is cocked to the right and the suspension feels loose. Granted I dont have much experience behind the wheel of 911s but the suspension feels sloppy and old. Shifter is also a little sloppy and I can feel it needs some engine/tranny mounts. I'm open to suggestions on upgrades in these areas I have a friend that used to be the Service Manager at this dealer and since he cant do a PPI on the side at his current shop, he suggested I take it there to his friend thats still employed at the dealer. Id rather go to a tech I trust than shoot blind at one of the 3 Indys in my area. Future work will be done either in my garage, at a friends shop or at an Independent that I'll select as time goes on and I have a chance to chat with them.

<snip> (I submitted this twice yesterday but for whatever reason it didn't post.) Apparently it did post. See above.

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Tip of the hat for your patience! Amazing self-control. (Or a very busy person.) I'm already looking for excuses to drive mine.

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A proper PPI pulls the oil sump plate...There goes your new oil If you're in this thing for the long haul, you need to take a step back and prioritize - doing things in a logical and purposeful manner will save you $ and in the long run will be better for the car (and your peace of mind).

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I watched the video on youtube that goes over the PPI and saw them pull the sump plate but when talking to the service writer I got the impression that it wasnt part of the mix. I'll have a chat with them today when I go drop it off and call around before hand to compare notes. Thanks for the tip!

Was that the one listed for 9k? I thought about trying to buy the wheels off of it. Let me know if you want to part with any. I'm in Baltimore with a 99

Congrats! That's a beautiful 996.

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PM sent! anyone know the proper offset and width for 17� wheels?

http://howtoporsche.com/911-series/9...pecifications/

Got an email with the results from the PPI! Car is still at the dealer getting its interior detailed but attached is a snapshot of the list. Not sure if I mentioned that the previous owner had an air horn installed behind front bumper because factory horn stopped working. Repairs seem pretty simple with room for upgrades along the way :-) Any tips and tricks would surely be appreciated

LOL It's funny to see a bill of almost $11k. :-P I recently took my 325ci to the dealer to have the airbag recall done. When I picked up the car, the complimentary inspection report they gave me was for $5500. I laughed, too. I would not be surprised if the horn button under the airbag is the issue with the horn not working. I believe many early 996's suffered from this issue. The common issue was if you came to a stop fast, the horn was sound. I can find the link to the issue if you need. Fortunately $4500 of your bill is for tires and shocks. Those are two things I don't mind upgrading on any car, especially a sports car. Brake pads and rotors are another. The oil analysis and the cooling system are obviously two things to put high on the maintenance list. Curious how your air-oil separator is. Another thing to be concerned about is the coolant expansion tank. If you're going to flush the cooling system, I would change the tank as well. Personally, if it were me, I would wait for the oil analysis before putting any money into the car. Once that is complete, you can go from there. In the meantime, look for a suitable used upgraded suspension. DO NOT DO ANY ENGINE MODIFICATIONS to it. It is a waste of money and time. Suspension and driver-experience mods are the way to go! Also, check out fcpeuro for any new parts you need.

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excellent tips! Coolant expansion tank swap on the list now :-) ive got FCPeuro saved in my favorites after watching �legitstreetcars� on youtube. I believe they offer a discount code through his chanel as wel :-P no engine mods planned except for a Fister D exhaust mod. Still need to cut open my old oil filter...

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The Fister D exhaust mod is a GREAT mod. That's the only sound modification I think is worthwhile. Exhaust systems for these cars are pretty expansive. It's the way the car should've come from the factory. I recommend focusing on tires, suspension, and shifter modifications. Seats as well, but not necessary.

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Im gonna need some seats but theres a fine line as my wife will also want to enjoy the car. I've had good luck with the Recaro SRDs ive had in my Mustang since the early 2000s. Im wondering if the Recaro Speed seat would lower my seating position some but keep it useable for my wife... May need to find a seat to test fit

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God, a 911 with an air horn. That's bodacious.

Still looking into some parts pricing but decided to place an order for two items today. GT3 Console Delete Frunk Hood Shocks Im excited to have more room in the car and it will be nice to not have to work around a pry bar when under the hood working I hate paying for shipping so they will be here by the end of the week hopefully...

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I did the exact same thing. My son named mine Sally first so you can't have that Just kidding. Have fun and good luck.

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hahahaha i figured the name was taken at some point. I was gonna order a sun screen with big eyes on it but my wife said it may be too much lol

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I have the Polar Silver Metallic and under the garage fluorescent lights she looks blue. Although, she is a cab my young son said she looks like Sally. I'll be happy to share the name. Even when I call my indy and say "Sally is acting up" he knows her by name. Not that she has spent a lot of time there but he always remembers Sally.

Im on a roll!!! Decided I may look into keeping the Fikse wheels and am looking into reconditioning them. Would like to get the centers painted black and leave the lips polished. A call to Fikse USA is scheduled for later. I inquired about the availability of the ROW M030 suspension package from Carnewal and the price was too good to pass up. Just placed my order and am looking forward to receiving it. I also found a good price on a B&M Shifter from VAC Motorsports and sent a request for that as well. I figure if it was good enough for Porsche as an OEM supplier, the price I paid for it surely beats the $400+ for a 997GT3 unit. I got an email overnight that my car was due for Emissions here in MD. Little do they know that my temp tags expire on the 14th of November and i'm not renewing until Im eligible for "Historic" tags on Jan 1st and will be exempt from such Big Brother tactics LOL Parts are coming in but my lift will be tied up for the forseable future (at least until the end of December) with my Fox Mustang that i'm stripping down for paint work. I'll address what I can inside and around the car but the major maintenance items that were listed on the PPI and my additional while-im-in-there list will have to wait until the Mustang has headed to body shop.

From my very recent personal experience, my recommendation is that every new 996 owner should remove the sump pan and inspect for debris. If you find any (like I did), take a picture of it before you remove it because *where* it is in the cover may be good to know. When completing the oil change, replace the sump drain plug with the LN Engineering magnetic one.

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Thanks for the tip! I'll drop the sump pan on the next oil change. A spin on LN filter housing and a magnetic drain plug are also on my to-do list

Small update on Sally! New hood shocks were installed yesterday ROW M030 from Carnewal arrived a couple days ago, its sitting in the corner of my garage until I can get to it. Need to order strut mounts and other bits and pieces to get that done. GT3 Console delete arrives today and an ashtray delete tray was ordered from ECS along with a new hood shield gasket. I never got an email from VAC Motorsports about the B&M Shifter I ordered (was to receive a paypal invoice and never did) and missed out on one on Ebay for $190 NIB I'll hold off until I find a deal or get through some more maintenance items. Found a Muffler delete in the classifieds for cheap, figure it'll be fun to run for a while until my exhaust either goes to Fister for modification or I decide to go with some Fabspeed cans. Turns out the tire shop I've been using (Radial Tire) used to be one of the largest Fikse dealers around and they still work on the wheels. I'm going to head down there sometime this week to have the owner take some measurements and tell me what I need to rebuild/resize my FM10s so they are ready for refinishing. Good fun so far!

I want to see what your car feels like with the current suspension and then after the new one is installed!

We can arrange that

Found a 340mm Raid steering wheel on FB I just sent payment for. need to find time to go pick it up this week was also able to pick up an OBC multi function stalk so i can add that functionality :-)

Is that technically an aftermarket steering wheel?

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yes it is. Not crazy about the stitching but we�ll see how it feels and go from there

Update: Center console repair kit Ashtray delete GT3 console delete B&M Shifter Removed extra wiring previous owner had run for air horn (lol)

The B&M Shifter and GT3 console really transformed the driving experience for me. I'm that much more comfortable now. Scored a 2" steering wheel extension yesterday so i'm torn on whether I'll run the aftermarket Raid wheel or not now. May sell it to go after a flat bottom 4 spoke wheel since the extension will give me all the knee room i'll need. My lift at home is tied up so I cant get the ROW suspension mounted up or any of the other maintenance items I need to cross off the list but at least my driving position is getting ironed out. Not sure if I mentioned this before but i'm 6'6", 240lbs with a 36" inseam and size 16 shoes. I typically have to go through a "fitting" period on most fun cars I buy. Except my 2013 Mini Clubman JCW. That thing fits me great!

Black Friday Deals got the best of me!!! RSS is sending me Engine Mounts (624) Rear Adjustable Toe Steer Kit (312) Rear Toe Alignment Locking Plates (333) Front Monoball Strut Mounts (329) Front Toe Steer/ Bump Steer Kit (370) Should really wake up the suspension once the ROW kit goes on

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Yep, that should make it feel much better. I need to do engine mounts too.

Now I just need to rebuild/refinish my FM10s so they arent vibrating all the way down the road.... or just buy some factory wheels and sell the Fikses Decisions, decisions

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You really scored on (off list/website) 329 Front Upper Monoball Hat/Shock Mount Kits for 996/997, forgot we had a few remaining sets of the shelf.

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Im still doing mental backflips of joy my friend!!! I cant wait to get your parts on the car and give this old girl a new lease on life!

When am I going to see this car?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A litte delivery today! Its a RSS Christmas tree!!!! was under the assumption that the Hat kit was for the front. Turns out its for the rear. Hoping they have a front strut hat solution. Sent an email to Mike and hoping to hear from them shortly. Cant wait to get everything on the car!!!

Just read thru the whole thread. not sure how I missed it before. Nice progression in a hurry. I also bought my 99 C2 on first drive, no PPI..170k miles.. and have never regretted it. These cars are not a black art if you are DIY skilled....just a car that you have to go into with eyes wide open..helps to have experience though too. Congrats on the new parts acquisition.. I'm waiting on the EPS forks I just picked up, to match the SPC adjustable control arms I scored a few months back. Surprisingly with nearly 184k on the car now everything is still tight and the parts are just waiting in a bin. I daily it and road trip frequently so there's no hurry. Keep lovin Sally. Mine is Betty.. "whoa Black Betty"

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hey hey! i agree, with a little DIY, these cars can offer a lot of value. My problem is the whole �buy once, cry once� mentality when it comes to replacement parts. I tend to go overboard :-) Keep driving Betty!!! Im a firm believer that most cars need to be driven to be reliable!

Snagged some OEM 17� wheels. Figure cheap tires with plenty of side wall are always a good idea. have yet to decide if im keeping the Fikses or not. picked up some wall art for the garage also :-)

Update: Battery went completely flat as it sat in the garage. Tried trickle charging in thecar, no luck. Tried jumping it with jump box, no luck. Tried charging out of car, no luck. Hooked up �charged� batterywith jump box and it fired up! Lol Note to self: buy new battery! Got the car on the lift and decided to start degreasing. Two cans of brake cleaner and a bottle of Simple Green and we�re getting somewhere but it seemssome elbow grease will be needed. Took a better look underneat and realized that the previous owner rigged up the front bumper with some tape! I was planning on removing the frontbumper soon to clean radiators and remove the previously installed air horn. We�ll see if it can be reused without the rigging or if i�ll need a new cover. Garage needs a white board to list the pending projects I have and try to planout an attack on this thing.

Been working on a different garage project and Sally has been sitting on my lift. Today I finally cleaned out all of my Mustang parts that were laying underneath the 996 and got a little organized I removed my battery tray as the battery is flat and I figured now is the time to address the rusty tray. Anyone know why this battery tray is green?? There was some adhesive on my dash from the previous owners that I didnt know if I was going to find a way to remove it... luckily Rennlist came to the rescue! Going to get a price from my local dealer on a battery tray and depending on how obsurd it is, i may replace or scuff and respray. Waiting on my Vorschlag front strut mounts then i�ll start assembling the suspension. After suspension is all together i�ll make a plan for the rest of the mods/maintenance. Heading to MVA monday to get my historic tags so I can start driving it soon :-)

Could just sand blast it and paint it too, if the replacement price is unreasonable.

I found a very nice battery tray on eBay to replace my tray that has some corrosion. It was about $25 as I recall. Cheaper than cleaning and painting the rusted one.

Vorshlag front camber plates are here!!!

Got some diagrams from my porsche dealer while I was ordering new center caps and nuts for the used battery tray I bought off ebay :-)

Just read through your post and sent you a PM. Glad your enjoying your project!

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It's not too hard to find the diagrams online. I have multiple TVs in my man cave and one of them is set up so I can Cast from the computer. It's nice when you're assembling something to have a nice big diagram right in front of you.

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ive got a TV setup in my garage for the same reason ;-)

That's what my Toughbook is for. I usually print them out so I can keep them nearby while working. I have a TV in the garage too, but I haven't turned it on since last Memorial Day. I've found that if I have a TV playing in there that I get distracted, so usually I have my Echo Dot (Alexa) playing music for me. "She" also controls my wall-mounted fans for me.

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My TV is mostly for youtube �tutorials� or my youtube playlist (music)

Trying to get organized...

first few pics looks like a lot of positive camber in the rear. what's up with that? is it just photo angle?

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Looking at the pics, it does look wierd. Not sure if its a bad angle or an alignment issue as the car is in the air waiting to get torn down as I type. I�ll update with any findings once I get into it

I guessing you probably know this already but there is a 996 parts out car that is listed in the Baltimore CL. I don't know the year. In case you are still looking for parts.

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Thanks for the tip, thats my buddy Andy. Sadly I dont really need any OEM parts for this build yet or I'd be all over that thing lol

As someone who did the same, i wish you the best of luck! so far I have been fine, hope the same holds true for you

Was getting ready to tackle the suspension swap but took a detour. Removed bumper/headlights. Simple enough. Removed air horn system and wiringthat previous owner installed Installed new (used) battery tray and new nuts Installed new center caps on 17� wheels Next up, clean radiators Purchase bumper hardware as bumper was being held on by tape and 6 bolts/screws

Radiators cleaned Air box removed Mufflers removed Need to order new muffler clamps/hardware Need Serpentine Belt Next up: Bake headlights to replace lense RSS Engine Mounts Inspect Serpentine Pullies Send mufflers to Fister

Baking tonight.... crossing my fingers lol

Very nice! Can't wait to hear the Fister exhaust! Did you figure out why he bypassed the OE horn system? *Oh, just curious if you thought about taking your mufflers to Mandrel Bend Solutions in Pasadena to have them do the Fister D mod. They are a really good exhaust shop and local!

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Good luck! I've never done headlights in the oven but I used it to soften the adhesive on some BBS wheels with good results. (Pro-Tip: When removing filthy wheels after their 5-10 minutes at 350�, do NOT use the novelty oven mitts that were given to you as a gift by the lady that you were planning on sleeping with later on in the evening ) And while we're talking about kitchen appliances, I can state that a dishwasher does a lousy job on wheel centers.

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I thought about having someone local try the mod and save on time/shipping/expense but need to call around I guess The OE horn system was bypassed for the same reason the front bumper was held on by tape.... LAZINESS Rather than fix the issue correctly (source lost hardware for the bumper) one of the previous owners just slapped an air horn setup on the car (which was more work in fact...) Doesnt look like they bothered to clean the radiators while they were doing their "mod" though so all around fail. 20 year old headlight glue no longer has the ability to warm and soften... after three 20 min sessions in the oven, I finally started getting some separation on the drivers side headlight in the corner where all the youtube videos suggest you start at... then CRACK. Cracked the headlight lense. Looks like i'll be reinstalling the headlights as is after a polish to the exterior lense and source a replacement set down the road. Very disappointing but the show must go on! Side note: 20 year old exhaust clamps SUCK! I lubed all the clamps days in advance with PB Blaster and nothing. They were so corroded that they needed different size sockets to turn. The 4 bolts that held on the muffler to the cat all broke (easy enough) and then I had to use my dremel to cut the clamps that held the tips on to the mufflers. At least the mufflers are now ready for modification. Ordering new clamps from FCP Euro to take advantage of their "lifetime guaranty" along with some other minor parts. Didnt have any motivation to take off the serpentine belt to test the pullies before heading inside for dinner. Need to get that order placed and tackle the suspension next just to get the car rolling sooner than later.

I've gone to MBS twice. Both times they did a great job on my exhausts. I have a damaged Tubi Style exhaust that needs a bent pipe replaced. I will be going to them to have it done. Definitely check them out. Not far at all. 996.2 Litronic headlights and front bumper swap?!!! I might have extras. :-P Sux about the headlights, but am not too surprised to hear what happened. I was actually going to suggest to a friend who has a Boxster 986 racecar with Litronic headlights to potentially trade with you. He didn't need them for what he uses the car for. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to ask before he wrecked his car last Dec at Summit Point and took out his pass. headlight. :crying I know what you mean about the exhaust hardware. I ordered several extras to replace as needed in the future. EDIT: The front bumper was held on only with tape?!!!!! WTF!! lol

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not only tape but there was only one bolt in underneath, the rest was secured using heavy duty packing tape it seems lol i thought about Litronics but I think the hassle and expense isnt what Im looking for... im sure something will pop up sooner or later i dig the early 996.1 front end so its staying!!

following

Baby steps! Prepared the factory mufflers for shipment to Fister for modification Packed up Fikse wheels for shipment to new owner Soaked all the suspension bolts with some more PB Blaster and disconnected the sway bar links. Tomorrow i�ll tackle the fronts. Hopefully the car will be ready for an alignment by the beginning of next week! Need to order more hardware from local dealer :-)

Snow day today so I got to start on Sally�s suspension overhaul. Sprayed on some PB Blaster a couple days ago so everything started off pretty smooth Passenger side issues. Two brokern caliper bolts and one stripped rotor retaining screw. Removed spindle from car and will take by machine shop tomorrow to see what can be done. Driver side came apart just fine. Both strut nuts are pretty rusty, soaking in PB Blaster now. Will continue tomorrow.

One of the youtubers I watch (Andrew Camarata) repairs his own excavation equipment. Several times, I've seen him take a nut and weld it onto the end of a mangled bolt head. However, when Samcrac was trying to unbolt stuff off of his 996 suspension, he had a bunch of problems like this. If the bolt (which is now only a stud) has fused bad enough, there may be no way to get it out. Good luck with it. I know this kind of stuff can be very frustrating

I bet the first thing the shop does it hit it with some fire. Heat will likely loosen it up.

Yup, heat cycle it a couple of times with oxy acetylene and hit it with penetrating fluid when it is warm (not hot) to wick into the threads. You can weld a nut on the end so you have something to apply torque to as well. If necessary, center punch, drill and chase threads. Or helicoil if it goes beyond that. Worst case replace the knuckle. No fun, but kinda goes with the territory.

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I was going to apply some heat but I dont have anything to get it hot enough (handheld torch wont cut it) so I'm taking it to a local shop. Front spindles arent too $$ on Ebay but Im hoping for a "quick" fix. Wish it was in the budget to replace all the control arms while I'm in here but that will have to wait for a later date. Would prefer to go RSS anyway rather than slap in some factory units. Should be something to look forward to next winter.

An oxy acetylene torch (aka "smoke wrench") is the right tool for the job. I have a setup from years ago that I used a lot when I built/had a rally car. I hardly ever use it these days, but it sure is handy if/when you need it. MAPP gas might work, but I'm not sure. The heat cycling expands and contracts the part and can loosen the bond between the fastener and base material. An old machinist showed my dad this and he showed me. I think the same old guy would use wax (like an old candle stub) on the warmed part to wick wax into the threads on stuck threaded parts (but I may be making this up in my head...). Granted he worked on more old tractors, but the metal parts don't know the difference. Oh yeah, if you (or someone else reading this later) ends up drilling the stud out, invest in some left twist drills. Sometimes they will snag the fastener and back it out as you are drilling. Another good tip from my dad that has worked more than once.

You would be amazed how much even just a propane torch does. Most of these parts are aluminium and expand a lot even with just a little heat. Get a bottle and try that before spinning it off. And stay away from power tools.

They sell the yellow bottles of MAPP gas and kits with the nozzles in the hardware stores around here. Oh yeah, another one, since you have a stud remaining, you can use a cammed stud remover along with the other stuff (heat, penetrating oil, etc). Another tool I seldom use, but comes in handy occasionally.

Some parts came in on Friday! Front and rear sway bar links Muffler clamps Front "tuning forks" Continental Belt/Pulley Kit Should be picking up spindle from machine shop tomorrow after work. Hope to get at least one side of the front suspension back together today and finish the rest of it by mid week. Maybe even get the RSS motor mounts in. On a VERY exciting note, a local fella has a 997 C4s with factory Aero that he LS swapped and developed a kit for the swap. We've been chatting for a while now and he even came with a plug-and-play wiring kit for the swap. Its CONSIDERABLY more economical than the competition and i'm very interested in it. Need to get the rest of the chassis caught up on maintenance and driving right but next winter should be a very exciting time in my garage (again)

I would be interested in your friends info too. Keep me in mind if he marketing anything. Although i assume his harness is for the 3.6l not my mk1 electronics.

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I forwarded you his contact info. He is indeed marketing a kit but also offers complete turnkey service. He just got (or is getting) a car delivered from down south and is doing a pretty good job of building a name for himself. You Tube

Machine shop successfully repaired my spindle... Bolts were �fused� into the spindle and needed to be drilled out and nut-serts fitted. Was a little quirky as it was difficult to hold at a proper angle in the press but they got it done. Got the front struts apart today and realized i�ll need to order some more parts, spring isolators, etc. Should have ordered them with the darn hardware order I placed last week... Finally unboxed some RSS components today and the quality is top notch!!!

Very cool RSS parts! If you need the strut parts soon, let me know. I can order them for you through the shop. Most parts I am able to get the same day. If so, send me the part numbers.

Nice project thread DGI !

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Thanks brother! Cant wait to get more of your goodies on the car. Top notch gear! I talked to Vorshlag this morning, apparently with their front camber plates, all I need for reassembly is the strut, spring, bump stop (if it fits), camber plate and nut. What do I reuse when installing the RSS rear top mounts? Any spacers, isolators, washers, etc?

Slow moving but finally got the front end mocked up. Need to torque everything down and move onto the rear. only problem is that I need to move the car off my lift as my Mustang project is coming home so the 996 is going on jack stands.

Nice progress. Is this going to be a street or track car?

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Street car. May play around at a PCA autocross or two this summer but just looking to have some fun on back roads Debating if I should just do the rear suspension on jack stands as if I run into anything that needs replacing i�ll have to delay the arrival of my other project car back to the garage...

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Heim joints on a street car are not a good idea. The joints should be covered to make them last.

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I worry about that as well but I dont plan on driving in salty conditions. Ive been running a similarly equipped mustang on the street for the better part of a decade and they are holding up just fine time will tell

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Mustang suspensions components are usually over engineered and are a lot beefier. Compared to the 996 they are built like a tank. Keep a close eye on it as they are tiny compared to the Mustang and will wear a lot faster too. Salt isn't my main worry, dust and sand is.

Car is on the ground after a couple of months on my lift. Front suspension is all together. Rennline stud conversion is on all four corners. Need to install rear suspension. Picked up some RSS Dog Bones from the classifieds so they'll compliment the rear shock mounts and rear toe link nicely. May replace the tuning forks on the rear while I'm in there. RSS engine mounts and a new serpentine belt will complete the package before it heads off for an alignment. Need to flush coolant and brake fluids but lets get it driving first so I can at least have some motivation to keep wrenching. Car sounds neat without mufflers but decided i'm not going to run the muffler deletes at all. Ordered my Fister exhaust today. Will send out the mufflers tomorrow and hope to have them back in two weeks or so. ROW M030 sits considerably higher than whatever worn setup was on there when I bought it. Should ride alot nicer and navigate speed bumps easier but I see adjustable coilovers in my future. Shame to sit so high with all the race bits on there but we'll see how it performs before I spend more $$$. New control arms wont be cheap anyway and they'll be on there sometime in June. Mustang comes home today and will occupy lift. I'll get to working on that slowly but the 996 still is the priority to get it "complete" and ready for some PCA AutoX action

Car is back in the air but on jack stands now. accessed rear strut mounts through cabin, alot easier than I expected Rear suspension should be a breeze but we�ll see what needs to be reused and what breaks lol engine mounts should be a cake walk also. Should be out for alignment by the end of next week. OEM mufflers are headed out tomorrow for Fister mod. Will be running muffler deletes until they return! finally, thinking about plasti-dipping the wheels as their finish leaves alot to be desired.

Baby steps RSS Engine mounts are in! Was pretty straight forward. Factory mounts were indeed very tired Took the passenger side rear shock out. Easy enough. Not sure what the assembly procedure for the RSS top mount is though. They came with some spacers that I figure are needed to give the bearing room to move but something looks off. See pics below. Any tips would be appreciated

Adjusted the direction i'm going with this rebuild project for the time being. Stopped by SSI (local Porsche specialist) yesterday so they could look at my rear shock setup and it was determined that the RSS rear shock mounts are for coilover applications. No worries, the factory rear shock mounts were actually in good condition so I figured I'd run these until I eventually upgrade to coilovers. Then we started talking about the alignment process with all of these adjustable arms that i'd be installing on the car. Long story short, i'm going to run stock style arms for the time being because spending that much $$$ on dialing in a car on stock style non-adjustable suspension is not worth it at this point. Once I move to coilovers i'll install all the adjustable bits and add more neat stuff to the suspension but for right now I'm going to be swapping back to stock style tie rod ends and getting the car on the road. I should be able to take it down to SSI by the end of the week to have them align the car and do some maintenance stuff on it. Working on my car 30 min here and an hour there is not getting the car ready to drive any sooner and the weather is getting better. The car should be completely transformed either way from the last time I drove it. Should be fun

Do I spy a 1993 Mustang Cobra in the back? Nice!!

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Thats actually my 1993 GT that just got back from a paint job/color change (it was white not long ago). It still needs its drivetrain and interior put back in. I've owned it for 19 years so I'd rather spend extra $$ on it to get it right and put off performance enhancements to the 996 for now but the Mustang is still 3-5 months from being complete so I want to get the 996 driving to have something other than my JCW Clubman to have fun in

That red paint is beautiful, wow ... I like the Cobra parts you put on it. But anyway, back to your Porsche, lol!

My recent '99 C2 purchase will hopefully be heading down a very similar path as yours this year! I'm a little confused why your local shop tried to convince you to go back to stock arms before getting aligned... The RSS arms are extremely easy to adjust and should make the car EASIER to align and get even side to side. I had my RX7 racecar done a couple years ago before I got my own alignment setup and it only cost me around 80 bucks for a 4-wheel camber and toe alignment... That was with individually adjustable toe and camber arms in the rear and doing toe and camber plates in the front.

Stopping in to place my mark. Looking good, D. Now that I see the Mini, it explains something I was having trouble rationalizing. I couldn't make those graphics work on a 911. It's all clear now. Give 'er hell. Looks like we may be on a race to see who gets on the road first. Unofficial, of course.

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a little healthy competition is good for the soul ;-) of course today I realized that I left the bump stops off of the front strut assemblies (not included with kit from carnewal as im suppose to reuse the oem stops, but mine were completely gone) so I ordered new ones that will be here in two days... do I really need them though? just replaced the bushings (O-Rings) on my horn plate. They were shot but still no horn. fuse is solid, need to jump horns to see if they work now. Too bad I already reinstalled the front bumper...

Nice stable of cars, keep up the good work!

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i may consult a different shop tomorrow closer to my office... couldnt hurt to get a second opinion i suppose SSI insisted that with the RSS toe arm, bumpsteer would need to be adjusted and that would take the bulk if the alignment time front. Then adjusting track width with the adjustable dog bones in the rear... unless of course im missing something

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Did you reuse the rear bump stops? If not did you know that they're different for the M030 ROW suspension? Standard 996.333.105.02, and Sport 996.333.105.03. I think the Sport versions are 10-12mm shorter. I hope I'm not the bearer of bad news.

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new rear bumpstops came with the ROW kit from carnewal. I emailed Gert today about front bumpstops and he told me that because they are the same as stock, none are included in the kit. Mine were long gone so I just ordered new ones today. Be here in two days. time to fit rear suspension and break down front once again. OEM tie rods incoming from FCP. Im seriously considering selling my RSS parts now. Debating if they are overkill for any intended use I plan to subject the car to... could have easily bought a complete factory style suspension setup (arms/ etc) for what I have in those parts lol

Yeah if you aren't going to be tracking your car there really isn't a need to replace all the suspension pieces with aftermarket. I'm about to order up stock replacement arms and shock mounts/bearings to go with some shiny new Ohlins R&T coilovers. Bump steer can be a concern but if you aren't lowering the car much you can adjust the aftermarket parts to have the same dimensions as the stock part you are replacing and you probably won't have to touch anything other than regular alignment tweaks. It's only when you go super low and significantly change the angle of the control arm in relation to the tie rod that you can have problems. Edit: At the end of the day if you like the shop you were going to have do the work, you should most likely go with what they suggest and are comfortable with. That will usually get you the best results in the end.

Car is on the geound again! Last night i was going to take apart the front suspension (again) and my kids kept asking me to come inside to play with them. As this past week was full of stomach virus adventures, i decided its time to let a professional finish the suspension project lol I eyeballed front toe a little better and cleaned the K&N air filter. I couldnt beleive how much crap was in that air filter. No wonder it felt like it was running out of air in the upper RPMs. I didnt ring it out on my quick spin around the block as it didnt get up to temp but the suspension feels tight and it tracked straight. Muffler deletes sound interesting... OEM mufflers arrived at Fister yesterday. FedEx messed up my original packaging and they had to �re-pack� them... who knows what condition they are in. Drivers side headlight (the one I baked) is no longer functioning. Looks like i�ll be headlight shopping sooner than later. I like the amber lenses but at this point, if I find a clean set for the right price, i�ll go with clear lenses and swap the rest of the car over. Calling dismantlers and searching ebay as we speak pics of the air filter mess:

Dropped Sally off at a local European shop I kept passing on the way home from work. Its literally 5 min from my house. I am happy to say that the initial feeling I got from the shop is positive. Its an old school style shop and the owner is 110% a car guy. Hes got about 20 personal cars from all eras and countries. Sally is in good hands. I also snagged a replacement set of headlights from Ebay. Two different sellers but the pictures show no damage, good rubber seals and clean internal lenses. Looks like i'll be retaining the orange reflectors but thats cool with me as I like how the car came originally. I considered picking up some Litronic headlights as they seem to be Plug and Play (no self-leveling but who cares) but the price over the standard ones didnt seem worth the benefit offered. Should hear from Sam (shop owner) today and should be driving the car by the weekend!

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They're all named, Sam.

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Picked Sally up from IAS yesterday and shes running great!!! Apparently it took the alignment guy 2 hours to get everything dialled in. Had them install the RSS rear toe arms and lock out plates and do the alignment. Also had them install my Continental Belt & Pulley kit from FCP Euro. They got everything installed on there except the tensioner pulley as the original had adequate tension and to replace it required considerable more work so they left it off for now. Car drives solid and straight as a tack. No bumps or creeks anywhere. The muffler deletes are actually very livable from inside the car. Not sure what others on the road experience but I can only imagine its not pleasant as I cracked my window next to a Jersey wall today and immediately rolled it back up LOL My factory mufflers should be back from FD Motorsports (Fister) by middle of next week Replacement headlights should be here today and I cant wait to get them on. Once the headlights are on, I'll be driving the car. Plenty left to do but it will have to wait until my lift at home frees up. Flush Coolant, replace water pump, thermostat, expansion tank Flush Brake Fluid Tranny service Fuel Filter replacement Coils/plugs Replace factory horns Activate OBC/install multi function switch Seal Sump Pan

First pic shows where I need to perform some body work to get her looking tip top

Ah good. I was going to tell you to buy some gas.

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everyone I sent that picture to said the same thing lol

Broken headlight base was the cause of my driver side headlight to go dark. Debating if I should replace the base or glue the broken tab back together. Or just plug headlight in and leave it at that lol

I just replaced the passenger side tray on mine too, same reason. Got tired of it.

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whats the procedure for removing from car? Do you unscrew the 3 adjustment screws from top and slide out?

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Yup, that's how I did it. Discovered that a couple were already very loose. Then checked other side and the same. Really tight space so nearly impossible to get a tool in there.

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Your list looks a lot like mine. (If you recall, we bought our cars the same weekend in October, mine was in Alexandria.) Oil change/drop/seal sump is on top of my list. And I don't need to do horns and the multi-function stalk won't happen for a year or two. Yep, pretty similar needs. It's also interesting how much our cars look alike now that you replaced the Fikse wheels with the 17" "base" wheels. Keep us posted on progress!

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Hey! Of course I remember! I'm so happy to finally be driving mine... how has yours been driving? I really dig the 17" wheels. With the new suspension, I got in my JCW Mini Clubman yesterday and what normally feels like a Go-Kart now feels loose and sloppy LOL I'm crossing my fingers that something I'm after for the car stays available until I'm ready to jump on it but it all depends if the "car Gods" want to shine some light my way. My Sump re-seal is my first priority. Past that, I want to flush coolant and brakes but along with the coolant flush i'll be doing a cooling system overhaul so I may put it off depending on how much I'm driving the car. With a free weekend, most of my list can be knocked out pretty quick. I'm going to hold off on adding my steering spacer/multi function switch for when I get my flat bottom 4 spoke steering wheel but that should be by early June. Really stoked!

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Mine drives great, I love it. As a daily driver it brings a smile to my face. Date codes on the tires are a little old-ish, so I don't push it though. I'm okay with the 17" wheels, but I'd prefer a set of 18s. I'd really like a set of the 996.2 "Carrera" wheels, but any "extra" $$ goes for the maintenance list. I'm enjoying following along with your (and others) progress as you are moving faster than I. I'm amazed at how easily you seem to find parts.

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im actively searching for 18s but something about the weight and larger sidewall on the 17s that makes it a hard sell for me. i search for parts daily and have been known to be impulsive... �buy once, cry once� and �while we�re in there� have taken me down quite a few deep rabbit holes lol

Drove Sally for a couple days now. No surprises or concerns. Really digging the driving experience! Cant wait for Fister exhaust to come in. Muffler delete is liveable but not very pleasing to the senses lol Dinner with my better half last night. She liked the ride, hated the exhaust, and commented that the body work needs to be addressed sooner than later. June/July project!! Side note, a little creative thinking got the drivers side headlight completely functional without having to replace the broken headlight bracket yet. Sourced one from an awesome Rennlister and will swap out once it comes in but at least Im not risking getting pulled over anymore. For under $500, these headlights are damn clean!! Need to polish them up and protect them still. Happy side note: Tested the A/C last night as I was driving to dinner and was pleasantly surprised that it blew ICE COLD!!! Took a couple minutes after already up to operating temp the other day for hot air to blow but the A/C worked instantly. I was considering completely stripping the A/C out of the car if it was not working for whatever reason (in the name of weight and to aid in free-er air flow to radiators) but I guess it'll stick around for now.

My wife and I started dating 9 years ago today! Why is this relevant on a 996 forum? I hid her gift in the Frunk of my 996 when it arrived and when I went to retrieve it yesterday both my Frunk release and my engine lid release were in-op!!?!?! Turns out on 1999 996s when the doors lock, the Frunk and rear latches lock also. Apparently, for whatever reason, last night was the first time the P-car Gods decided it would be entertaining to jam both the front and rear lock mechanisms sending me into a Google searching frenzy. It turns out that sometimes when you lock the door, it doesnt unlock the rest of the locking mechanisms. Locking the car from the key hole and unlocking it again released all the locks and all was good. Fun times!!! I really need to get my key fob working lol

I had a line on a full OEM Aero kit painted in Arctic silver for $4k. Was talking to the seller for the past couple months and was planning on driving out to meet him at the end of May. Decided I wanted to do it sooner and asked him to get some detailed pics of the goods and in the process he ended up deciding to reinstall the kit on his car I'm now talking to the same guy about buying his stock front bumper as its already Arctic silver and will use the money I would have spent on the aero kit to fix the rest of my cosmetic issues I like the Aero look ALOT but i'm not about to buy parts new and go through the paint process from scratch. I'll be keeping the stock lines of my car for the foreseeable future. Picked up a small air compressor so now I'll have "shop air" to power a Uview coolant flusher Cant wait to get underneath Sally again to continue removing items from the To-Do list!

Been driving Sally a couple days a week and every drive im more impressed with what my �cheap� 911 offers. Currently waiting for some free time to continue on my pending maintenance items. In the meantime, im searching for some more parts :-) Im looking to: Delete sound system Delete side air/bags (GT3 doorpanels) Replace seats (Manual Sport? GT3 Recaro? Cobra Nogaro?) Delete Sunroof? Flat Bottom 4 Spoke Steering wheel Ultimately, i�d love to drop some weight and fit in the car better. Id like to retain rear seat access so im leaning towards Sport Seats but it depends if its feasible (cost wise) to go sunroof-less)

Given the lead time, I placed an order today

Looks good, how long do you have to wait for it?

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3-4 weeks but i�m not in a rush. Have a Carnewal steering column extension to install at the same time along with a multi-function switch to enable navigating my obc menu :-)

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Where are you sourcing this? I am looking at various options to get me a little more room for my legs.

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http://www.dctms.com/Products.html They are on Ebay but if you email them they'll give you a better price than Ebay.

Thanks!

Ha, y'all are talking eBay steering wheels and I just got this email from SunCoast Parts only minutes later. These Porsche Alcantara wheels are just $1995 for the 996. I'll stick with my non-Alcantara Momo. I still need to install it. I just haven't had time to work on my own car lately.

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Thats a pretty penny! Ultimately I need knee room. I was originally going to look for a Raid steering wheel but since I found a Carnewal steering extension for cheap, a modded stock wheel will work just fine for me.

Many Momo steering wheels are around $200, if you don't mind not having an airbag. I picked mine up for $40. It didn't fit the guy's Jeep, so he ordered a larger one. He used it for one week. He waited too long to fit it and couldn't return it. It's setting in a box with my Momo adapter and extension from Carnewal. It might be too small for the 996 too, but for $40 I figured it was worth a try.

I'd really like to see if there's a seat out there that has similar width/comfort to the "Comfort" seats in my 40AE, but can go down lower and further back. I don't need fore-aft adjustment once I find my sweet spot, but tilt adjustment is probably necessary to get my seating right. There are track extenders that might work to move be back but my head is already at the headliner, going back makes things worse unless I can also go down. I really need to find a shop that does aftermarket seats from multiple vendors, has some in stock and can work with me on it. It's not going to be cheap and I'd prefer to stay with an OEM look.

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This is exactly what I did with my Mustang. Used Alcantara Momo Monte Carlo for $50 back in the day. Moved the steering closer to me with a detachable sparco hub and acts as theft deterrent if I ever park it somewhere. Didnt want to go this route with the 996 as I'd like to keep it somewhat OEM looking. Im tempted to order a set of brackets from Wedge Engineering to see if the Recaro SRDs from my Mustang would sit lower in the 996 than my stock seats. That would be the sweet spot. Adjustable front to rear and retaining rear seat access (my kids get a kick of going for rides around the neighborhood). Next best thing would be to do a sunroof delete. I'd retain the adjustability of my stock seats but add some headroom and lose some weight. My final option would be the Cobra Nogaro seats. Low side bolster and removable cushions that allow for lower seating (me) or full cushion (wife). For $100, the Wedge bracket may get a chance to shine soon.

Special delivery! And on my birthday to boot! Installed the sticker lol, the mufflers will be installed sometime this coming week.

May as well get to work! Passenger side was previously hit. Repairs were done half ***. Looks like i�ll need a new heat shield for that side. Taking my mother in law to the airport now, will continue later or tomorrow

While I wait for my heat shield, i figured it was time to inspect the plugs and coils. plugs look meh but coils are cracked so figure now is the time. Placing an order tomorrow :-)

Seems like a no brainer to get that stuff checked and taken care of while you have the exhaust out!

I've got a complete set of non-cracked coils I swapped out from my 40th. None were misfiring, just swapped them out to swap out since I was getting exhaust replaced. I'll practically give them to you if you don't want to spend the $$ on brand new.

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If DGI doesn�t want them, I�m interested in them.

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thats mighty generous brother but i want that warm fuzzy feeling of new parts while im in there. Feel free to offer them to Tex. thank you for the generous offer however!!

Not to hijack - but I would be willing to part with 3 or 4 of mine (coils). I'd like to keep at least two as back-ups. Maybe someone else considers a similar strategy.

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I'll keep the two best coils from my current set as well as I'm not getting any CELs or misfires (to my knowledge) just in case. Plenty of space to keep them in the frunk in a mini tool kit i'm putting together.

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Sure - but are you going to try swapping out coils on the side of the road if you detect a misfire? Not me. I get away with this - and have plenty of experience doing so - with my Audis. You may have noted how difficult access is on these cars, even in the best of conditions.

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not on the side of the road per say but should I be a while away from home on the weekend, it sure would be handy to have a spare rather than try to find a parts store or get a tow home? They dont take up much space and figure its worth having some around. I wouldnt want to climb under the car using the OEM jack much either for what its worth

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Valid point. When I rally my cars, I always carry extra parts and tools. When I am commuting back and forth to work, I just carry a basic tool kit (including the ability to change a flat) and a jump pack. "Plan accordingly."

I�d like some coils for my �educational use M96.� Let me know if you want to get rid of some.

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PM me with your address.

Ordered my plugs, coils, etc from Warehouse33. Great prices, especially after taking advantage of the "Rennlist" discount code. Too bad shipping wasnt included and I picked the cheapest option at checkout. Parts wont be here until next friday

Parts arrived a day early!!! I dig that! Out with the old yesterday, in with the new after work today. Figures the only cracking coil I found was the first one I pulled to inspect LOL oh well, now i�ll have spares Plugs look ok. The rear most plug on my passenger side is darker than the rest. Any idea why that may be? Ordered new O-Rings also. Nothing looks like its leaking or loose however so I may just reinstall plugs and coils and get the car back together. Warehouse33 FTW!! Passenger Side Drivers Side

More progress!! Beru plugs and Coils went on smoother than expected. Had to get creative with the heat shield as the 997 coils are considerably fatter than originals. Luckily i had a couple extra hex nuts laying around and used two sets of original coil bolts to space out the heat shields Sally never ran smoother!!! None of the fluttering that she previously did at startup. Next up: Fister install! Got the brackets mounted to the mufflers and the setup mounted loosely onto the car. This step is much easier using a lift or lying completely on my back as the car sits now on jack stands Kids bath time came sooner than expected (time flies when youre having fun) so i�ll have to finish the install next chance I get. Likely Sunday after work. Good things come to those.... dammit I wanna hear my Fisters!!! So fresh, so clea Shame the rest of the motor isnt this clean Even fresher!!! Shame these will be covered up

I like it! I'm confused. Why did you go with 997 coils? Can't wait to hear the exhaust. Seems like one of the best mods for these cars. There is no way I could've left the engine like that! A few applications of Oil Eater Citrus spray, and then a final application of P21S (much more expensive than Oil Eater, but seems to do a little better job) would clean up things pretty nicely! My citrus cleaners are always around when I am working on my cars.

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The 997 coils are whats calles for as the current replacement. i�ll have to pick some of those cleaners up. Ive been scrubbing on this motor for a while, i�ll use anything that might work! Engine out this winter so everything WILL get cleaned up one way or another lol I cant wait to hear the exhaust either... Legoland today so we�ll see how I feel tonight when we get home...

Question of the day: Is there an exhaust setup that would delete these damn side brackets and make maintenance like this easier? Center exit maybe? Or: Can these exhaust brackets be modified to be removable with the engine still in the car? On my 1978 Honda CB750, we modified the frame so i can remove the valve cover while the motor is still in the frame

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It's 3 bolts and a clamp to pull the muffler. Real easy job!

You think the Fister cans are worth it? It just seems so expensive since we are on the opposite coast. They do look pretty. I am tempted to just do the bypass since its not a DD and I like loud cars.

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Muffler removal is easy, the bracket that holds the mufflers to the car impedes plug/coil removal... haven't completed the install yet and i have not fired her up yet. I�ll let you know by tomorrow

Tips and clamps need fine tuning but shes back on the ground! You Tube

Sounds nice. Well done.

The stars aligned and I got a new driver�s seat setup incoming!! Recaro SPG XL Brey Krause 9044 Brey Krause 9076 Lets see how much headroom a 6�6� dude can have in a sunroof equipped coupe!

Lamp key head $32.96 Keysinthepost key �25.94 ($33.17) Ignition Pill behind dash trim FREE Low Profile key for 996 $66.13

On its way from DCT Motorsports!!!

Sounds good, the steering wheel looks nice.

Should be a fun day tomorrow

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Cool. Will you be able to move it fore and aft?

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Negative... i�ll see how much space it frees up and see if a slider setup would work for me 9076 is a passenger side bracket. Need to order 9075. also bought the wrong seat hardware so stock seat went back in today. Ordering new bits tomorrow

Need to wait for some drivers side brackets but while I wait, some preliminary pics Again I�m 6�6� 240lbs with a 36 waist, 36 inseam and size 15 shoe Stock seat and stock seating position:

Scored the door panels I was after today. Wanted to get a set of GT3 panels with the door airbag delete but decided i'd rather have the door storage pockets instead of the speaker grills so these will do just fine! Should be here in 6 days.

DGI, when do you plan on pulling your seat? Can you eyeball something for me when it comes out? PM when you do please.

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certainly bud! PM incoming

I like that yellow Ferrari too!

Special delivery from DCT (Taiwan)!!!

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You're never going to fit in the Ferrari with those measurements.

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LOL That thing would unfold like a cardboard box if I even tried to stand in it

Finally got the seat mocked up with the proper brackets. Its lower but no where near as far back as the factory setup. I can probably get further back using the factory sliders but they would raise the seating position up the height of the sliders and its already a pain in the *** to get in the seat at the height it currently sits at. Going back to OEM seating for now.

Bummer!

Dropped some weight and added some utility!!! Easy door panel swap right? Bull****... Door handle cable mounting clips were different so I had to swap the door pull assembly. But wait, there was more. My original door handles were worn so I had to swap the new metal handles into the old handle housings into the new door panels Its done and I couldnt be happier! Up tomorrow: remove speakers and head unit, and possibly swap in 996.2 center horseshoe setup with updated cup holders. Also replace the cig lighter with dual USB ports. 1 hour tops... right?

Trying to find time to take the car off the road to continue with the projects/maintenance but its been so much fun just driving the darn thing lol Just ordered a "LN Oil change bundle" with a spin on filter adapter, magnetic drain plug and filter magnet since I'll be dropping the sump to reseal it. Need to source some Drei Bond 1209 locally now or just order it online. Amazon needs a week to get it to me!? Thanks for nothing Prime membership...

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There are other off the shelf products that will work just fine...

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Ordered some from FCP Euro just now. Be here in two days, about the same time the LN goodies will be here. Was considering a "Deep sump" kit but I dont plan to track the car so I saved some $$$ there. Will send an oil sample to Blackstone when I do the job to see how the motor is looking.

A little care package from LN Engineering and FCP Euro arrived today!

Let us know where that filter was made.

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Is this desirable? Any issues with these Napa Gold Filters I should know about?

New report that they are now made in Venezuela.

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The guy on the phone at LN said they love these Napa Golds. Figured id take his advice

Scored a NIB LN Engineering Dual Row IMS bearing upgrade for a considerable discount here on the forum!!! https://rennlist.com/forums/parts-ma...che-911-a.html A bit bummed I missed out on the $275 NIB Clutch Kit last week. Would have made the upgrade a real tasty deal! Oh well. Does anyone rent IMS Install kits? I remember someone made 3D printed Rear Main Seal tools but cant find them now. Any input? Need to send an oil sample to Blackstone before I tackle the IMS upgrade but considering my initial oil change and filter inspection didnt show any signs for concern, this should be fun!

Is this the RMS tool that everyone is talking about? http://www.cheetahonline.com/product...rsche/rsmtool/

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I use a RMS tool 3D printed and sold by Rennlist member Chris(MA). It's been a while, but I think it was around $35.

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thanks! sent him a PM

Same here.

One step forward, two steps back. Tried swapping in the 996.2 radio surround only to decide that I didnt want to hack up the vent in order to get it to work. Decided to stick with the original radio surround. Removed the head unit and replaced it with a storage cubby. Removed cigarette lighter and fitted a dual USB port (dremel to the rescue!) Test light failed to work (thanks amazon), voltage meter broken (thanks craftsman). Decided I dont want it constant on so ordered a pigtail to use under-console mobile phone hookup for it. Looks like i�ll be ripping everything back out when pigtail comes in. Tried to remove factory speakers... failed. Tweeters are glued in. Figure i�ll bite the bullet and order the speaker delete grills and sell my factory speakers to whomever wants the whole CD player/speaker/door woofer kit to offset cost. Spin On Filter install waiting for 26mm deep socket to arrive. Re-seal Sump. Waiting for transmission funnel adaptor to arrive so I dont make a mess. Time to install multi-function OBC switch, Column Extender and Flat Bottom wheel. Figured Id better go inside and re-read wiring info for OBC hookup before I start pulling things apart lol

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I'd be curious to know if the flat bottom wheel makes a difference getting in and out. At 6' 3" it's the only thing I dislike about the car as a daily driver.

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Along with wanting more knee room, Id also like less of a reach to the wheel. Found a deal on the Carnewal steering spacer so im curious how it feels. Ive got a removable hub in my mustang so Im used to reaching for the turn signals, etc. We�ll see.

Today there was progress!! Wrapped up the dash console. Well, almost. Since I had to remove the center console to remove the GT3 console delete, I kept the center console out so I can find a replacement as mine is well worn. Dropped the sump pan for a reseal. Pan came down easy. Makes me think its been down before in its 115k mile life. Blackstone sample going out tomorrow. Will clean everything and get LN spin-on adaptor and sump pan back up tomorrow.

I am jealous of your lift, it's hard to get motivated to crawl under the car these days. Keep thinking about a quick jack to aide with my detailing but haven't pulled the trigger yet.

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Thanks! Designed the garage with the intent to have a lift. Its a huge help but if you look back in the thread, you�ll see Im a fan of jackstands for long term work ao I can keep the lift free for regular maintenance on the rest of my cars

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Build the garage big enough for multiple lifts. . I tend to use my 4 post for longer projects and my two post for quicker things.

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I had always wanted a lift. Never had the space to make it a reality. Then, about ten years ago, we bought a place with plenty of land. Shortly after that, I found a deal on a used lift from a shop that was closing down. They were offing dozens of lifts. I chose a 9000 lb asymmetrical twin-post Rotary lift from their selection. It was $1850! Chump-change compared to many of the other things needed to go with it - such as a garage and concrete...(and a tractor to move it around). This was about 2012. We were just building our house. Moved it into the barn that was already on the property. Finally had my garage built just over a year ago. It was designed specifically around that lift. Raised it on July 4th, 2018. Amazing how many cars have been on and off that lift in less than a year. Along with the tractor, one of the greatest inventions ever...

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The next part of the dream is to build a second detached garage and have a 4 post (or a double 4 post) for storage and oil changes in a pinch, and keep the 2 post for the real work.

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That looks fantastic bro!!!

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Yeah - it's so nice to have things that make working on cars easier.

Scheduled an appointment with a local specialist (Ralph's) to read my cam deviation and have them look over the car. Shop manager transferred me over to Ralph himself who is pretty highly regarded in the local P-car community. Looking forward to next Tuesday!

Blackstone Lab report is in!! Looking good from what I can see and from what they say ☺️

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Can you do a new LS under $15K?

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Indeed. ~$8k plus the cost of the motor and im on the road. A little extra if Id like A/C. Ive found local GTO motors with accessories for under $2k. Not opposed to buying a parts car and parting it out to recoup $$$ and selling a running M96 will help offset the cost also id imagine.

Progress and adventures!!! Installed LN Spin On Oil filter adaptor, pre-filled oil filter and added Filtermag. Cleaned up oil pam hardware, added loctite, applied Drei Bond to pan and reassembled. Shortly after realized that I forgot the sump baffles that I removed when I was cleaning so that the brake clean wouldnt deteriorate them... Back down everything came. Good thing there was enough Drei Bond for a second application. After car was finally on the ground, I removed the rest of the car�s speakers and amplifier. Its completely stereo free now, except for the wiring of course. Waited overnight and filled it up with oil about an hour ago. Took a trip to Chipotle for lunch. So far, no leaks :-) Next on my list: Install flat bottom steering wheel with extender and install new horns. Debating adding OBC stalk now since if I do end up LS swapping it, im not sure id it�s functions will operate properly.

I've been beside myself the past week trying to decide which way to go. I took my car to the specialist the other day and am really glad I have such a wonderful shop near my home! Ralph's Auto Services is amazing! They had the last 993 chassis to come off the production line sitting there... I did not know it was an RSR!!! Stunning! I've been between myself to either do the "maintenance" they suggested, or proceed with swapping my car to an LS motor. Had an awesome drive with my buddy who owns a 2008 C4S Aero the other day and for 4 hours we were tackling the twisties around my county. Temperature stayed solid and handling was tight and AMAZING! Ultimately I've decided to post the car for sale as I'd rather not hack up such an early model 996, and Im already on the border of being able to get the $$ I have into the car out of it. She'll be "cheap" as far as early 996's go but shes well sorted. I know these cars will go up in value down the road and I will surely regret my decision but with two young boys starting private school this fall, I cannot dedicate the $$$ or time to chasing after maintenance of this car, along with my other restoration project currently ongoing. Anyone thats interested can reach out to me and i'll be as honest as this build thread has been. I'd love to see this car in the hands of an enthusiast that will continue to love it as much as I have.

Pics from Ralph�s! Last 993 produced First year Turbo Sally hanging with friends

I can't believe you're going to sell it after all the time you've spent on it. What's your asking price?

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Me either but i've also been torn as I could never free up more head room for a reasonable $$ and the boys really dont fit in the back to enjoy the car as a family. I'm thinking of starting at $16ish and keep an open mind?

$16k is not �cheap� as far as early 996�s go...especially with the stereo pulled out... What were the cam deviations? It seems like there�s a lot of detail missing from the story. Why the thought of an engine swap if the current engine is ok? Btw, an LS swap will cost over $15k - and that doesn�t count the headaches...I just don�t get the head snapping change of position, as it seemed you were deep into modding this thing a few weeks ago...Any lifter noise? 😱

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The price isnt set in stone, the car is a solid driver but far from perfect. I still have the stereo, will possibly reinstall it or leave it up to the next owner. There are a lot of extras I can include or sell separately, I have not decided which way to go yet as i'm leaving for overseas on the 22nd and wont be back until the end of August so I will likely wait until I return to post it. The shop did not measure cam deviation or hook it upto the Durametric. After hearing my story they agreed that it was time to consider doing the cam guide service but after reviewing the pictures they said it should be done "within the 10k miles". They have great reviews from all the locals and and are known to be honest and not waste peoples money so I appreciate them being frank about whether going through the Durametric readings was necessary or not. Ralph's is considered one of the longest standing Porsche specialist shops in the country apparently (news to me) so I figured I'd take their word for it and not push for it... Theres no lifter noise, or any noises that would make me not sleep well at night. Of course i'd be willing to offer a complete PPI from Ralph's or a different shop should a serious buyer pop up when I post it for sale. I am heavy into modding it but the mods were modest. If someone would prefer the stereo in there as well as the factory center console vs the GT3 delete, it would only take me a couple hours to put everything back. Same for the door panels, shifter, etc. The cost of the LS swap and the risk of not getting it perfectly dialed in vs the cost to perform an elective engine rebuild sooner or later made me take this complete 180 in my direction with the car.

Bummer to see you are selling this as I enjoyed reading your updates. I don't know what is considered cheap but for my 99 I paid $18.5k with 50k miles on the clock for reference, gonna be hard to separate emotion from worth.

What was the quote for new cam guides? Don't take this the wrong way but as is I wouldn't pay more than $12K

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I didnt get that far but I would be happy to call and get that info as i'm now curious as well LOL We talked for 20 min about the car then we went off trading war stories about shop life, restaurant life and politics... AWESOME SHOP and AMAZING owners. The memorabilia they've collected over the years is something else. Wind tunnel models from Porsche, rooms filled with original shop manuals, etc. I dont take anything the wrong way brother

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^^ Fair and sensible reply! I didn�t meany to sound accusatory in my first post, but I would certainly understand if it was taken that way... re: an LS swap- absolutely! The only way I would ever consider that route were if I picked up a roller for next to nothing. I predict you�ll be back in a Porsche at some point! GLWS! 👍

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I completely understand how my change in direction looks my friend. I do really enjoy the car overall and would LOVE to LS Swap it but theres too many variables and ultimately cost (with either maintaining the M96 long term or LS swapping) for me to proceed. FWIW: Even Ralph from the shop was really excited about the idea of LS swapping lol Maybe the Project Car Gods want me to LS swap and there will be no interest in my car when it finally goes up for sale.

Hope you're just going through a 'phase', here. I have also enjoyed your adventure. Were it me, which it isn't, I would not consider an LS swap unless the Porsche engine options no longer made any sense (I.e.: it done blowed up). I get the size issue. As kids grow, the nicely sized rear seats become less nice. If you can't rationalize its need, then there's no reason to keep it around. I do hope you find another Porsche, should you move on from Sally.

DGI is a car guy. There are plenty of other cars to enjoy that don't have the astronomical costs associated with them. I think you're making the right decision. You got a great 996 that allowed you to learn about and work on. However, the potential costs you're facing simply wont alow you to enjoy the car. Time to move on to something else. These cars aren't for everybody. In fact, they're for a very small group of people. Not many people are comfortable dealing with these cars issues. Just considering the high probability of engine failure is a $15k+ decision to make. Move on to the next car and maybe consider a roller to build with an LS in the future.

So because it might need cam guides you're dumping it? Without measuring deviation, or seeing if it actually needs them? It'd take a lot more to scare me off, but I guess everyone has their tipping point. That's a bummer. Good luck with your sale.

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Im back from vacation and I missed this post. I came to the same conclusion! I'm not giving up that easily! Car drives fine and short of some body work and engine maintenance, its clean as a whistle. I'm still 60/40 on keeping/selling but the more I think about it, the more I'm not letting this puppy out of my garage. I'll drive it lightly until I can come to a concrete decision and find time to get it back to the shop to measure cam deviation, etc.

Wow! Nice vacation And, you're still in the fold Hope you get it figured out, and have more time to enjoy 'er!

Drop some Vintage Speedster Style seats in and enjoy another 4" of head room! They're more comfy than they look...

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A little too far from "stock style" for my tastes but those have been working wonders for the Cobra kit car community for years. I looked into these for a while https://www.torqued.io/tillett-b5-race-car-seat but also too far of a departure. Hoping some Recaro SRD or Sportline (topline?) seats would drop the driving position a bit but first things first...

anyone have a parts list for stuff to replace when doing cam guides? Would it be easier to perform this job with the engine out of the car? I'll likely tackle it over the winter so it would be no problem to drop the engine on a table and go to town Cam guides Timing Chains Cam Tensioners anything else?

Definitely easier with the engine out! Seeing as you've got to remove the cam covers, spark plug tubes? (you don't mention whether it's a 5 or 3 chain engine - the 3 chain engines don't have the removable tubes). It looks like you've got everything else covered regarding cams. Of course there's always the other ancillaries - Water Pump, AOS, Oil Cooler (or at least O rings on it), Oil pump bypass spring/piston, Clutch/Flywheel, Injectors, etc...

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How can I distinguish if its a 5 chain or 3 chain motor? My car is a '99 and when I did plugs and coil packs, the tubes were dry but seemed removeable. If I were to drop the motor, of course the Water pump, coolant reservoir, and a ton of other items would be looked at. Figure i'd upgrade to a center radiator also, etc. Drove the car to work today, oil pressure is fine, temperature is fine, drives awesome. Didnt ring it out as i'm hesitant to reach the cam crossover point though lol My plan is to have a local shop perform a compression/leakdown test that way I can confirm the condition of the motor and go from there. I figure within the next month I'll motivate to get dropped off.

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I'll leave to the experts, but I think 99MY has five chains. If you can, I'd see if the shop can scope the bores and hook-up a Durametric to get an idea how the engine is performing. Maybe this already happened? Even if it has, it's always good to have up to date data.

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Good tip on having the bores scoped! I figure the durametric hookup would be part of the compression inspection but i�ll make sure to note that when I have it inspected :-)

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Maybe. Different equipment/ tools for each task.

Just because I like options:

LS swap would be pretty cool, I bet it would be a blast to drive.

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I'M ALL OVER THE PLACE TODAY!!! Doing some rough number crunching LS Swap: 2004 GTO LS1 with accessories, harnes, ect, etc. $2k (found locally) Stuttgart Muscle Swap Parts $2050 Labor for swap (quoted locally) $5K (Will go up at end of year) Misc items $1k? Total: ~$10,050 Sell M96: $5k Out of Pocket: ~$5,050? M96 Maintenance Timing Chain, Guides, Solenoids, etc ~$1500 IMS/Clutch/etc. $2000 AOS, Water Pump, Etc $1000 Labor $4-5K (not including initial compression/leakdown, scope, durametric tests) Total: $8500-9500 Right now, I'm leaning LS1 swap. I'd be out (lets say) under $6K and have an easily rebuildable/moddable motor with more power than stock. The only catch: Approval from THE BOSS (wife )

You should focus on getting the right (left) seat for your driving comfort before anything...Unless you just want to flip it when done?

The LS is such a solid platform and super reliable, it's not hard to understand why people do those swaps. You get so much more for your money.

" Right now, I'm leaning LS1 swap. I'd be out (lets say) under $6K and have an easily rebuildable/moddable motor with more power than stock." The #'s may look good, but they're not reality - any finished LS swap I've ever read about finishes out at $15k or more unless you're doing all the work yourself (not recommended unless you've got a very wide skill-set). Best of luck regardless of which way you go!

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I drive the car just fine as it sits, i'd just like to sit a little lower. Ultimately not a priority and it doesnt take away from my enjoyment of the car.

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I must have confused you with another member that had his head touching the roof.

If you can't do the LS swap yourself then don't do it. It will be a money pit.

I don't understand how an LS1 swap is any worse than a built m96. Aren't those 20k?

Don't waste the money on a used GTO engine unless its a cherry with uber low miles, ANY of the L motors can make the same/more power for less money. There are several versions that are all Aluminum. 450HP is a sub 5K motor.. Hang around on LS1 tech the options for GM smallblocks are limiltless. If your willing to toss the Porsche wiring,, you can save most of the cost. If I was doing one I'd probably rework the Porsche instruments with VDO and forget the original stuff. Especially if its a track toy..

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The very first tool I'd recommend is a Durametric. Measure and monitor your cam deviation to see if you have an issue before jumping into the project.

Wife pulled the plug on the LS swap idea. Shes a purist, and I get that. I dig the way the 3.4 drives and sounds and never felt I "needed" more power anyway. Before I left for vacation I was full blown excited to get a Boss 302 and she was still under that impression. She asked me if it was "worth" it to do the maintenance on this car VS spending a little more and getting a newer, more modern car.... Back to being torn again but on two different fronts today LOL I'll be in my corner quietly...

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What's with this "wife pulled the plug"? Can't you make your own decisions and bring her on board for it? Why do you need her to make the choices for you? Lame!

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Family projects :-)

Sally has been listed for sale. https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1159601 Price is OBO and like I mention in the post, I'm a reasonable guy. Anyone interested in the car can contact me directly and as with this ownership thread, I will be as transparent as possible in describing and presenting the car to any potential buyers. Pre Purchase Inspections are welcomed and encouraged and i'll do my best to assist the buyer in any way I can.

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The "cam crossover" is around 3200 rpm... That's hardly "(w)ringing it out"... So what did the shop say after the compression leak down test?

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I never got that far. Decided to move on and finish existing projects (Mustang, CB750) and buy something else. Not sure what yet

Good deal for someone.

I hope it doesn't sell and you're forced to stick around...haha just kidding, someone's going to get a good car at a fair price.

Bye. It was fun while it lasted.

What'd it sell for?

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$15,250

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I wish you the best and hope you stick around!

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Will definitely be around and likely back in some type of Porsche sooner or later. Wife wants a 997, ive always wanted a Cockster... em... Cayman For right now, im playing the maintenance catchup game (again) with my new daily driver

That makes the 911 look like a hybrid.

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You're not that Russian assassin, from that Bourne flick, are you?

Whats up Rennlist!? For the record, I never stopped lurking/drooling... just didnt have anything to contribute. Sally was in the loving hands of the gentleman that bought her locally. I would see her at Cars and Coffee from time to time and actually kept in touch with the buyer. Always would mention that if he ever tired of her, I'd like a crack at her first. We, that day came as I landed back at Dulles Airport returning from vacation this summer. My phone searched for network and a text message came through! "Are you still interested...." I took a day or two to consider the proposition. Sally was driven ~3K miles in the time she was with her new owner. She received a new MAF sensor and some aftermarket LED headlights (originals were still with the car). She still had the worn timing guides but still purred like a kitten. When it came time to talk price, the seller made it really easy for me. $3k less than he bought her for! I couldnt say no to that!!! Welcome back Sally to my garage! I went back and fourth for the past couple of weeks on whether I "SHOULD" keep her, given that since we last chatted I bought a 1994 Corvette ZR1 that is currently apart on my lift, but my wife and kids made it easy for me. They insisted that she sticks around. Today I ordered a Durametric cable so I can finally see if the cam deviation is within spec and we'll go from there. The decision to keep Sally came last Friday and of course I cant get tags/insurance until tomorrow so, Happy Labor day and we'll chat soon

Old headlights are back on! and she got her first wash since coming back home today! Durametric cable should be here by the end of the week!

great story, and the car looks awesome. great looking house and property too

Something must have scared the crap out of the owner to sell it at a discount or the wife found about the girlfriend.

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The thought did cross my mind... but hes always been a straight shooter. He knew about the cam guide "issue" but still bought it. We talked about his time with it. He recently did an oil change and had to replace the LN Magnetic drain plug because he stripped the allen portion of the plug using the wrong size bit. He couldnt "cut open" the oil filter since I converted to use the spin on style filters so without dropping the sump, there was no way to see if there are more bits of plastic floating around (or metal ) I'll run through all the steps of the IMS Solution's Pre-qualification check list once I get my lift freed up. First step is to get the cam deviation readings before I start driving it daily, and start ordering parts!

Welcome back. Look forward to reading more about Sally

A little bit of Deja Vu� Emailed DCTMS and they had one ready to ship. Figured it would be a little motivation to start wrenching on Sally. Should arrive in a week or so. Durametric should be here Monday according to tracking. Crossing my fingers and hoping for a good Cam Deviation reading

What was wrong with the aftermarket headlights?

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I wasnt a fan of what they looked like on the car. Nothing wrong with them functionally. They were actually considerably more useable at night than the factory units. I just thought they were hideous

Nice way to make $3K

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Sold it for a ~$2k profit too 🥳 Does this drop my initial buy in? Or my re-purchase price? LOL

Durametric arrives tomorrow. Hopefully before I leave for work (night shift this week). Since Im determined to get Sally up to date on maintenance, i decided to "invest" in some fun/functional parts that were always on my To-Do list. Ordered all four missing under trays from Porsche of Towson along with all the hardware. Suncoast browsing is always dangerous. Incoming are: Rear Plate Bracket (my original is in bad shape) Vent Cup Holders (bought them in the past but were lost/broken by previous owner) Replacement frunk/engine cover levers (mine are worn) Airbag Retaining Frame (tried fixing it using the O-Ring method but still doesnt sit right and horns still in-op) Front Trunk Organizer and Trunk Carpet Floor (delete spare tire and lose some weight while cleaning up front trunk). I did get a 3M Headlight Restoration Kit yesterday and polished up the passenger side headlight. Did a great job but not as clear as the drivers side unit. Still needs tweaking. Was dark outside and couldnt take a decent picture. Also noticed that the drivers side carpet was a little damp when I was poking around fuse panel. Need to clean sunroof drains and other drains while im in there.

Well ****.

There are three of you???

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Three of me? Are there other Dimitris on this site? LOL

bad trios joke

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RL is not ready for you

Run some Seafoam through the motor they said…. It’ll be fun they sai…. Sprayed the whole can into intake tract, 1/4” away from throttle body as instructed. Holding at ~2k rpms (easy with cable throttle lol). Shut car off to put away tools and came back to find a river of Seafoam under my car. Only logical explanation would be an intake leak on the drivers side? Vacuum leak somewhere? I do hear a hissing noise at times when car is idling. Need to get a smoke machine hooked up to it ai guess. Start up after 10 min and ran through the gears for about 5 miles. Ever see a 996 “Roll Coal” but with white smoke? My entire neighborhood was engulfed lol Does that mean it worked? Drove to work fine, oil pressure solid, temp between 180-200, Coolant level same as before. Looking forward to driving her home after a long night at work. PS: Durametric arrived after I already left for work for the evening (God bless the restaurant industry). I'll get it hooked up tomorrow after I head to Home Depot in the morning.

2 steps forward, one step back? Got the Durametric hooked up today. Cam Deviation looks to be “within spec” which gives me a sigh of relief but that doesnt change the fact that pieces of cam guide were found in my sump pan. So I felt pretty good about those readings and as I was explaining to my wife that Sally wasnt a complete Hooptie…. Her passenger side window wouldnt roll up. Had to make a little home brewed fix until the part from FCP Euro arrives. Anything else I should look up on the Durametric while I have it? I understand Jake Raby had a good tutorial online on how to use the scanner but I cant find the video on youtube for the life of me. Next order of business after replacing the window regulator, i'll likely tackle flushing the brakes and cooling system. New coolant tank, water pump, thermostat, etc have been on my list for too long. Even if/when I drop the motor this winter, i still want to get a decent cooling system flush now and get all the gunk out of these pipes.

This car will be going on BaT soon. seller of another 996 mentioned the VIN and a Google search found the rennlist for sale post and thus this thread.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...1-carrera-233/ here it is.

Indeed, i received an offer a while back and let Sally move on to the gentleman that posted her on BaT. I will be back in a Porsche of some type sooner or later but given my pending garage projects, this felt like the right move. Curious to see where the auction ends and hope she brings joy to her new owner.

GLWS!

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for the record, it is not me selling the car on Bring a Trailer