Control arms and struts- order of replacement?

I�m getting ready to replace my control arms, drop links, tie rods, sway bar bushings, and struts. Does it make sense to do all at the same time or can I batch certain work together without having to do much re-work? It would seem that struts, drop links, and perhaps tie rods could be done in one batch while control arms and sway bar bushings could be done in another. I need to consider breaking up the job due to my schedule. Bonus question�. How do I tell if I need new springs? The rear sits a bit lower than the front. Car is a 2004 cab with 75k miles.

Having recently done all this I would do it all at once. You could save the sway bar rubber and drop links for another time tho. Harbor freight sells a inner tie rod tool cheap and it works well. springs don't wear out

Thanks! I was already planning to pick up the ball joint separator from harbor freight. The tie rod end tool is cheap enough to warrant purchasing as well.

theres another great cheap tool you'll need in order to install the crimp style clamps for the rubber boots. Amazon Amazon

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Is that worth it over just getting screw-type pipe clamps?

One other benefit of doing it all at once is not having to do multiple alignments.

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i think so

I got the drivers side suspension all disassembled. Only the drop link bushings we�re cracked. The diagonal control arm bushing is pretty soft. No question that it meeds replacing. The ball joint on the lower control arm (coffin arm) is fully intact. It�s softer than the new one but seems ok. I didn�t break apart the ball joint on the passenger side but it looks good visually. Is there a good reason to replace the lower control arms? If it�ll improve handling, I�ll do it but you know what they say about things that aren�t broke�

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In my opinion, it is a good idea to replace these. Even if you do t see wear, the parts are likely 20yrs old. The rubber and plastics are not what they should be. Having done all these same tasks on my car within the last 12mo, I can confirm noticing a big difference now. I agree that you don�t need to worry about replacing springs. However, check shocks and engine mounts. These last two created the most noticeable difference in my car when I finally replaced them.

OP - Like chris8382 says, the control arms are aged and not fresh. If the original durometer of the bushings was 80 (for example) when new and now it�s at a 50, I can�t tell the difference; but the car can. Anything with rubber should be suspect. When I totally refreshed my suspension, the car handled brilliantly once again. From a cost/benefit perspective, tidying up the suspension is universally recognized as the best way to improve the performance of our na cars.

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Thanks, will do. I haven�t taken the springs off the struts yet but did buy new top mounts and bearings so I�m covered there. The struts were totally shot. All the fluid is gone and there�s only a tiny bit of foam rubber left of the bump stops. Should be night and day when it�s all done.

elwoodcg, Where will you bring the car for an alignment afterwards? While I am not replacing anything this year, a suspension refresh for my car is on the list. It looks like everything is stock, with the front and rear control arms still covered in cosmoline (or whatever the factory used). Cruising through VT yesterday I could feel the tired suspension.

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I haven�t decided yet. Thinking about Precision Imports in Manchester, NH but need to ask them a few questions first. If your suspension is feeling rough or tired, definitely check into the struts at a minimum. I can�t say I was too surprised at their condition when I pulled them out but it�s amazing how the previous owner(s) let them get this far. The bump stops are totally gone.

I have an 03 cab and would be interested in who you use for alignment. I'm at 60k miles and it would probably benefit from all the suspension bits being replaced.

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I�ll keep updating this thread as the work progresses. Precision Imports seems like a good option though. Going to have them swap over winter tires on my wife�s Audi to try them out and will report back. I�m new to this game but my experience this far is to visually and physically inspect the components where possible before diving in. If your struts are original, consider starting there along with sway bar end links. I�m going all in but, in hindsight, part of me would like to feel the difference each upgrade makes. For those following along, I had a hard time getting the springs compressed with the HF spring compressors. The springs are pretty short and I wasn�t confident all the tension was off. My regular shop was happy to do the job. I�ll post the cost when I get them back.

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When I did my suspension I was surprised how bad my bump stops were. They weren't totally gone, but bad considering only 38k miles and garaged in San Diego's relatively mild climate.

Anyone have any tips or tricks to getting the new struts in the carriers? The end section is tapered but the struts are slightly wider under the carrier clamping area. koni suggested removing some of the clear cost with a scotch brite pad. Any other ideas are welcome.

My bump stops look like SoCal911t's pictures. Replacing struts requires an alignment. Replacing any of the control arms requires an alignment. I don't get the phased approach as good alignments are pretty expensive. Precision Imports is good. I had them align my car when I first bought it. Another good shop is Exotech in Plaistow NH, although that is a bit out of the way for us in the central part of NH. I've seen Mark (owner of Exotech) level his lift with micrometers when setting the car up for alignment. Thorough? You bet. Expensive? Yep! Can't help with the Konis not fitting in the carriers. When I update the suspension I'll go with Bilstein B6.

I did a little research and ended up ordering this tool from Amazon. It�s got a cam lobe that will spread the pinch bolt wings when turned with a breaker bar. It�s not marketed for Porsche but I�m pretty sure it�ll work. Will post back with results. Amazon Amazon

Just tap a screwdriver or small prybar into the slot and it will open it up.

Sub'd. Planning on refreshing the suspension on my 114K mile 2002 C2 this winter.

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I used the wedge part of my ball joint separator to open it up a little. It starts to slide in but the wedge blocks the path of the tab on the strut. I�m not sure if the tool I bought will help much with the problem but I�ll see if I can find a better workaround.

Ok, I got them on. I put some silicone grease (super lube) inside the knuckle, used the wedge to spread the clamping area and got them started. After that. I removed the wedge, flipped them on end, and gave each a couple taps on the bench while pushing down on the knuckle. Worked like a charm. Installed

Quick update. Everything on the drivers side is installed finger tight. The nut that comes with the TRW tie rod end is smaller in diameter than the original internally and it�s not a flare nut like the original. I�m not thrilled about tightening it down on the aluminum carrier with the smaller contact area so I plan to pick up a grade 8 washer to sit in between. Decreased mating surface of the new nut.

I don't like those either. I would either reuse the original nut if it has any prevailing torque left or get new ones from Porsche, they're cheap. 999-084-449-09 is the part# and I keep a few on hand for just such an occasion.

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I would but the original nut is a larger internal diameter and won�t work with the new link. I�ll take the new with me to the parts store and see if I can get a flare nut of the same size.

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Washers and jam nuts r fine. almost none if the aferrmarket tie rod links come with flanges. I think its only 48 or 62 ft-lbs of clamping force. The strength is in the tappered mechnical interface.

Finished up the front today. I cut the test drive short since it�s definitely out of alignment but it felt pretty good. Firm, yet complaint. It�s almost ski season here so I�m going to cover her up and tackle the rear in March. Last outdoor pic for this year:

Nice job, nice post.